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Mitsubishi 4G6 and 4G6-EW engine factory workshop and repair manual download

- Overview
- Lubricating (oiling) the dipstick tube means cleaning and adding a light film of oil/penetrating spray so the dipstick slides freely and the tube’s seal is protected. The procedure is simple, usually done from above the engine; removal/replacement of the tube is only needed if it’s bent, corroded, cracked, or the seal/O‑ring is damaged.

- Safety first
- Work on a cold engine to avoid burns from hot metal or oil.
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock wheels.
- Wear nitrile or mechanic’s gloves and eye protection to avoid contact with oil and spray.
- Keep rags and an absorbent mat ready for spills; dispose of used oil/solvents properly.

- Tools and supplies (each tool with what it is and how to use it)
- Ratchet and socket set
- What it is: Hand tool that fits hex heads; sockets slide onto a drive on the ratchet.
- How to use: Select the socket that matches any retaining bolt or clamp on the dipstick tube, attach to the ratchet, turn clockwise to tighten or counterclockwise to loosen. Use short, controlled motions; don’t use cheater bars.
- Combination wrench set
- What it is: Set of open-end/box-end wrenches in fixed sizes.
- How to use: Use the correctly sized wrench when access is tight and a socket cannot reach; use the box end for better grip on bolts and turn steadily.
- Long-nose pliers (needle-nose or bent-tip pliers)
- What it is: Pliers with long tapered jaws for reaching and gripping clips or the dipstick.
- How to use: Grip spring clips or the dipstick handle gently to pull straight out; avoid squeezing the metal tube.
- Flat-blade screwdriver and small pick
- What they are: Screwdriver for prying small clips; pick for removing O‑rings or getting into narrow spaces.
- How to use: Carefully pry retaining clips; use pick to lift an O‑ring out without scratching the tube mating surface.
- Clean lint-free rags or shop towels
- What they are: Absorbent cloths for cleaning oil and debris.
- How to use: Wipe around the tube opening before applying oil; keep the work area clean to avoid contaminants entering the engine.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist) and/or light engine oil (10W‑30)
- What they are: Penetrating spray loosens seized parts; fresh engine oil lubricates rubber seals and the dipstick.
- How to use: Spray penetrating oil around the tube base if the dipstick or tube is stiff; wipe excess and then apply a thin film of engine oil to the dipstick and inside mouth of tube before reinsertions.
- Spray straw or small funnel (optional but helpful)
- What it is: Straw attachment for precise spraying or small funnel for pouring oil.
- How to use: Use the straw to direct penetrating oil to the tube seam; use a small funnel to pour a little engine oil into the tube mouth without spilling.
- Plastic or rubber mallet (optional)
- What it is: A soft hammer to tap parts without damaging metal.
- How to use: Lightly tap the top of a stuck tube or tube flange while applying penetrating oil—gentle taps only; avoid heavy force that could bend the tube.
- Replacement dipstick tube and O‑ring/seal (if needed)
- What they are: New tube (metal or OEM spec), and the rubber O‑ring or sealing washer that fits where the tube inserts into the block.
- How to use: Remove the old tube and O‑ring; clean the mating surface; install the new O‑ring on the replacement tube and push the tube into place until it seats; secure with the retaining bolt/clip and torque to spec if known (snug if not).
- Disposable gloves and shop towel for cleanup
- What they are: Protection and cleanup materials.
- How to use: Use gloves while handling oils and solvents; use towels to wipe surfaces and catch drips.

- Procedure to oil the dipstick tube (beginner-friendly, from easiest to more involved)
- Prepare: let engine cool, park, chock wheels, put on gloves and eye protection.
- Locate the dipstick and tube: find the dipstick handle (usually near the front/top of the engine) and follow it down into the tube opening.
- Clean the area: use a rag to wipe dirt and oil from around the tube mouth and dipstick handle so debris does not fall into the engine.
- Remove the dipstick: pull the dipstick straight out using the handle; if it’s stiff, apply penetrating oil to the tube mouth area and let sit 5–10 minutes, then try again.
- Lubricate the dipstick:
- Apply a few drops of fresh engine oil along the length of the dipstick’s metal blade or spray a small amount of silicone or PTFE-based lubricant into the tube mouth using a straw for precise application.
- Wipe any excess oil off the dipstick and insert it slowly and straight into the tube several times to spread the oil inside the tube and across the O‑ring/seal surface.
- If dipstick is sticking or tube feels tight:
- Spray a small amount of penetrating oil around the base of the tube where it meets the block and along the mouth; let sit 5–10 minutes.
- Work the dipstick in and out gently while twisting slightly to break up corrosion or grime; avoid excessive force to prevent bending the tube.
- If it loosens, reapply engine oil as above and wipe clean.
- Re-seat the dipstick: push all the way in until it clicks or seats fully. Wipe the outside clean.
- Clean up: wipe away drips, dispose of oily rags safely, and wash hands.

- When removal or replacement is required, why, and what to replace
- Reasons to replace:
- Tube is bent (dipstick won’t reach oil properly or binding occurs).
- Tube is cracked, corroded, or pinched (air/oil leaks, contamination risk).
- O‑ring or seal at the tube base is hardened, cut, or leaking oil.
- Tube is seized in the block and damaged during extraction.
- Parts that might be needed:
- Dipstick tube (OEM or direct-fit aftermarket for your specific 4G6 engine variant).
- O‑ring or sealing washer that fits the tube/block junction (replace whenever tube is removed).
- Retaining bolt or bracket clip if damaged or missing.
- Dipstick itself if handle or markings are damaged.
- Why replace instead of repair:
- A damaged tube or seal can allow oil leaks or let dirt into the oil sump; replacement is inexpensive and restores a reliable seal and correct dipstick reading.

- Removing and reinstalling the tube (high-level, only if needed)
- Access: remove any obstructing components (intake hoses, brackets) to reach the tube attachment point; use socket/wrench to remove a retaining bolt or unclip the tube from a bracket.
- Extracting the tube: after removing fasteners and applying penetrating oil to the base, pull straight out using pliers on the top of the tube or use a gentle rocking motion while pulling; avoid bending the tube.
- Installing new tube: fit a new O‑ring or seal on the tube, coat lightly with engine oil, insert straight into the block until seated, secure the bracket/bolt, and ensure it aligns with the dipstick. Tighten the retaining bolt snugly—use the factory torque spec if available; otherwise avoid over‑torquing.

- Final checks and tips
- After lubricating or replacing, start the engine briefly and check for oil leaks around the tube base.
- Verify dipstick gives a stable, correct reading and that the dipstick slides smoothly.
- Keep spare O‑rings and a replacement tube if you plan to do future work—cheap insurance if the old tube is fragile.
- If access is severely restricted, or the tube is seized and won’t come out with gentle methods, consider a professional to avoid damaging the block or oil passages.

- Waste and environmental notes
- Collect used oil, rags, and solvent in sealed containers and dispose of them at an authorized recycling center or auto-parts store.

- Quick required extras summary (if you only have basic hand tools)
- Penetrating oil and fresh engine oil (required) — loosen stuck parts and lubricate seals.
- Replacement O‑ring/tube (recommended spare) — needed if seal or tube is damaged.
- Small funnel or straw for precise application (very helpful).

- No yapping.
rteeqp73

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