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Mitsubishi 6G72 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

What you’re calling the “map_sensor” is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor on the Mitsubishi 6G72 engine. Below is a beginner‑friendly but detailed guide: what the sensor and all related components are, why it matters, how the system works, how to diagnose/test it, step‑by‑step removal and installation, and common failure modes and fixes. No extra questions.

Quick summary (if you want to skim):
- MAP sensor = small electrical sensor on the intake manifold that tells the ECU how much vacuum/pressure is in the intake.
- If it fails: poor idle, hesitation, stalling, bad fuel economy, CEL (P0106/P0107/P0108).
- Diagnose with visual check, vacuum pump + multimeter, and/or scan tool.
- Replace if out of spec. Simple mechanical removal, careful with connector/grommet and vacuum hose.

1) Theory — why the repair is needed and how the MAP sensor fits into the system
- What it measures: the MAP sensor measures absolute pressure in the intake manifold (not relative vacuum). Think of it like a tiny barometer attached to your intake runner. The ECU uses that pressure to calculate air mass entering the engine so it can meter fuel and set ignition timing.
- Why it matters: The ECU needs an accurate “engine load” signal. MAP tells the ECU how much air is being drawn in at any moment. If the signal is wrong, the ECU will add too much or too little fuel and will time spark incorrectly, causing rough idle, hesitation, stalling, hard starts, increased emissions and poor mpg.
- Analogy: The MAP sensor is like the pit crew telling the engine “we’re getting this much air” — if the crew lies or gets sick, the driver (ECU) can’t pick the right gear/fuel.

2) Components and what each does (every relevant piece)
- MAP sensor (the part itself): small electronic unit bolted into the intake manifold or mounted with a grommet. It contains a pressure port, a sensing element, signal conditioning electronics, and 3 pins/wires in most systems: 5V reference, ground, and signal (some systems add a 4th for temp or diagnostic).
- Vacuum hose / pressure port: on some MAP sensors there's a vacuum hose or small port; on others it senses pressure directly through the mounting hole. On 6G72 it’s usually directly mounted to the manifold (no long hose), but inspect for a small nipple or plugged port.
- O‑ring / rubber grommet: seals the sensor to the manifold. If hardened or torn, it leaks.
- Connector and wires: 3‑wire electrical plug that carries the 5V reference, ground, and signal back to the PCM (ECU). Corrosion or broken wires cause bad signals.
- Intake manifold/throttle body: the sensor reads pressure inside the manifold; intake leaks anywhere will affect readings.
- PCM (ECU): receives MAP voltage and uses it in fuel calculations, ignition timing, idle control. If MAP is out of expected range it may store codes.
- Wiring harness ground and reference supply: the MAP is dependent on stable 5V reference and good ground.

3) Common symptoms and diagnostic codes
- Symptoms: rough idle, poor acceleration/hesitation, stalling on idle or load changes, surging idle, poor fuel economy, black smoke (rich), check engine light.
- Codes: P0106 (MAP range/performance), P0107 (MAP low input), P0108 (MAP high input). Also related misfire or fuel trim codes.

4) Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Multimeter (DC volts, continuity)
- Hand vacuum pump with gauge (very helpful)
- Small ratchet and socket set or screwdrivers (depending on fasteners)
- Replacement MAP sensor (OEM or exact-spec aftermarket)
- Electrical contact cleaner, dielectric grease
- Small pick or screwdriver to release connector tab
- Torque feel / snugging — avoid overtightening
- Scan tool (optional but very helpful) to view live MAP voltage and clear codes
- Gloves, rags

5) Expected electrical values (typical)
- Reference: ~5.0 V (key on, engine off) between 5V ref pin and ground.
- Signal: atmospheric manifold pressure (engine off) ~4.2–4.8 V (depends on exact sensor). At idle (intake vacuum), signal will drop — often around 1.0–2.0 V at idle. As load increases and manifold pressure rises toward atmospheric, signal increases toward the reference voltage.
- If signal is stuck very low (near 0 V) or very high (near reference 5V) that’s a failure or wiring problem.

6) Diagnostic procedure (step‑by‑step)
A. Safety/prep
- Work on a cool engine. Set parking brake. Disconnect battery only if you’re going to change parts; to test voltages you need battery connected and key on/engine off or running as required.
- Locate the MAP sensor: it’s mounted to the intake manifold (near throttle body on many 6G72 installations). It’s a small rectangular/round sensor with a 3‑pin connector.

B. Visual inspection
- Inspect connector for corrosion, bent pins, moisture, or burnt wires. Inspect the grommet or O‑ring. Look for cracked vacuum hoses or intake manifold cracks. Replace badly damaged connectors/grommet.

C. Check for codes with scan tool (optional)
- Read stored codes (P0106/P0107/P0108 etc.). Note freeze frames.

D. Basic electrical check (key ON, engine OFF)
- Backprobe connector: measure 5V reference pin to ground — should be ~5V.
- Measure ground pin to battery negative — should be near 0Ω or very low resistance (good continuity).
- Measure signal pin to ground with engine off (manifold at atmospheric): expect ~4.2–4.8V. If signal is dead or stuck, move to wiring checks or replace sensor.

E. Vacuum test (best way to confirm sensor responsiveness)
- With the sensor connected, use a hand vacuum pump on the MAP port (or apply manifold vacuum if mounted directly). Watch the signal voltage: when you create vacuum (lower absolute pressure) the voltage should drop smoothly; when you release vacuum the voltage should rise smoothly back toward atmospheric value.
- Expected behavior: smooth, proportional change. If it’s erratic or doesn’t change, sensor is bad.

F. On‑car live testing while idling
- With scan tool or multimeter, monitor signal voltage while engine idles. At idle the signal should be lower than atmospheric (e.g., ~1–2V). Blip throttle and watch voltage increase smoothly.

G. Wiring continuity test (if voltages wrong)
- Check continuity from 5V reference at ECU to sensor 5V pin.
- Check continuity from sensor ground pin to chassis/battery negative.
- Check for shorts to power or ground on the signal line.
- If wiring is faulty, repair harness before replacing sensor.

7) Removal and replacement — step‑by‑step
- Tools: small ratchet/sockets or screwdrivers depending on mounting.
- Steps:
1. Allow engine to cool. Disconnect battery negative if you prefer (remember clearing codes).
2. Locate MAP sensor and unplug the electrical connector. Release the locking tab carefully with a pick if required.
3. If there is a vacuum hose, remove it (note condition or any crack). On some 6G72 versions the sensor reads directly—no hose.
4. Remove retaining screw(s) or pull out from rubber grommet (some are pressed in). Keep any O‑ring or grommet. Inspect and replace if brittle.
5. Compare old and new sensors to ensure identical connector/pin layout and mounting.
6. Clean the mating surface on the intake; remove dirt so new seal seats properly.
7. Install new sensor. If it uses screws, snug them but don’t over‑torque. If press‑in, push until seated. Replace grommet if necessary.
8. Reconnect vacuum hose (if present) and electrical plug. Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease on connector pins if desired (avoid getting grease into sensor port).
9. Reconnect battery if disconnected.
10. Clear codes with scan tool or disconnect battery for a few minutes to reset ECU (note: battery disconnect can lose other learned parameters).
11. Start engine, check idle and read live MAP signal if possible.

8) Post‑replacement checks
- Verify idle quality and that CEL is gone. Use scan tool to confirm signal voltage and that MAP readings change with throttle and vacuum.
- Road test: check drivability under load and that the problem symptoms are gone.

9) Common things that can go wrong and troubleshooting tips
- Bad connector or corroded pins: can mimic sensor failure. Inspect and clean.
- Cracked/brittle O‑ring or grommet causing intake vacuum leak: vacuum leak causes lean or erratic conditions — replace grommet.
- Intake manifold vacuum leak elsewhere: the MAP sees incorrect absolute pressure if other leaks exist.
- Wiring short to power/ground or open reference: causes stuck high/low voltage. Don’t replace sensor until wiring checked.
- Contaminated sensor: oil (from turbo-PCV or crankcase vent) or coolant (rare) can foul element. Often better to replace sensor.
- Mechanical damage: cracked sensor housing or broken mounting tab; replace.
- Intermittent faults: sometimes only fail under temperature changes—test when cold and hot.
- False diagnosis from other systems: MAF vs MAP strategy — some cars use MAP in conjunction with other sensors. Make sure other sensors (MAF, IAT, TPS) aren’t the real culprit.

10) Small but important tips
- Don’t pry on plastic connector tabs recklessly; breakage is common. Use small pick and depress tab.
- Avoid overtightening screws. These are plastic or thin metal mounts.
- Replace rubber grommets when old — they’re cheap and prevent leaks.
- When testing, a steady, smooth voltage change with applied vacuum = good sensor. Jumping or no change = bad sensor or wiring issue.
- If replacing sensor doesn’t fix codes, trace wiring back to ECU and test reference voltage at both ends.

11) Typical error codes and what they mean
- P0106 — MAP range/performance: sensor reading not matching expected range for given engine conditions. Could be sensor, vacuum leak, or wiring.
- P0107 — MAP circuit low input: signal too low (near 0V).
- P0108 — MAP circuit high input: signal too high (near 5V).

12) Final checklist
- Visual: connector, pins, grommet good.
- Electrical: 5V ref present, ground good, signal changes with vacuum.
- Functional: engine runs smoothly, codes cleared, no vacuum leaks.

That’s the practical, start‑to‑finish map sensor diagnosis and replacement for a Mitsubishi 6G72. Follow the electrical tests before swapping parts — most failures are wiring, connector, or grommet related rather than the sensor itself. Good luck.
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