The 6G72 ended up being stated in three the latest models of which showcased SOHC with 12-valves, SOHC with 24-valve, and DOHC with 24-valves.

The latest variation was used in the Mitsubishi Eclipse GT and Galant. Output in 2004 ended up being 210 hp (157 kW; 213 PS) at 5500 rpm with 278 N*m (205 lbf*ft) of torque at 4000 rpm. Into the older version, used in many Chrysler versions since 1987 this V6 was a SOHC 12-valve developing 141 hp (105 kW) at 5000 rpm and 172 lb*ft (233 N*m) of torque at 3600 rpm. The Mitsubishi designs had been with a 3.0 Litre 6G72 motor SOHC 24-valve developing 195 hp (145 kW) at 5000 rpm and 205 lb*ft (278 N*m) of torque at 4000 rpm.For the MIVEC system production are 201 kW (273 PS; 270 hp) at 6000 and 304 N*m (224 lbf*ft) at 4500.

The SOHC 12-valve for the second generation of Pajero provides 109 kW and 235N*m,the SOHC 24-valve can offer 133 kW and 255N*m.

The DOHC 24-Valve was found in the Mitsubishi Debonair, 3000GT and Dodge Stealth creating 222 horse power (166 kW) and 205 pound force-feet (278 N*m) of torque in normally aspirated type, so that as a lot as 320 horse power (240 kW) and 315 pound force-feet (427 N*m) of torque in turbocharged form. Each lender regarding the V6 had unique separate turbocharger and intercooler. Turbo chargers are built by Mitsubishi. They certainly were water cooled assure extended services life.
Programs

1986-1992 Mitsubishi Debonair
1987--2000 Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager
1988--1989 Chrysler New Yorker
1988--1990 Dodge Raider
1988-1990 Mitsubishi Sigma
1988--1993 Dodge Dynasty
1988--present Mitsubishi Pajero (a.k.a. Montero/Shogun) (Except GCC and Oceania now)
1989-1990 Chrysler city & nation (very early 1989 systems only)
1989--1995 Plymouth Acclaim/Dodge Spirit/Chrysler Saratoga
1990--1991 Chrysler TC by Maserati
1990--1993 Dodge Daytona
1990--1993 Dodge Ram 50
1990--1995 Chrysler LeBaron
1990--1996 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
1990--1998 Hyundai Sonata
1990--1999 Mitsubishi GTO (a.k.a. Mitsubishi 3000GT, Dodge Stealth)
1990--2002 Mitsubishi Diamante
1990--2006 Mitsubishi L200
1991-1996 Dodge Stealth
1991--1996 Mitsubishi Verada (Australia)
1992--1994 Dodge Shadow ES
1992--1994 Dodge Shadow
1993--2001 Mitsubishi Magna (Australian Continent)
1994--2007 Mitsubishi Delica
1995--1999 Proton Perdana
1997--2007 Mitsubishi Pajero Athletics (a.k.a. Montero Sport/aka Challenger in Australia)
1999--2003 Mitsubishi Galant
2000--2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse
2001--2005 Dodge Stratus/Chrysler Sebring Coupe

Mitsubishi 6G72 System



The 6G72 ended up being the name directed at three liter displacing system that belongs to 6G7 motor families. Essentially there have been four various variations, SOHC 12 device, SOHC 24 device, DOHC 24 valve and DOHC 24 valve twin-turbo. Producing 6G72 has started in 1990, subsequently Mitsubishi placed different models of 6G72 engine in a wide range of products. Among all those versions Mitsubishi GTO MR (JDM variation) Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 (European variation) Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo (US & Canadian variation) had been the only people to get the twin turbo form of 6G72 motor. Really these cars are nearly the exact same besides their badges.



6G72 twin-turbo was a 60 degree V6 is displacing 2972cc with 91.1mm bore x 76.0mm stroke. Cast iron block have slim walls that were reinforced with ribs to truly save pounds. Cylinder block ended up being housing slim wall aluminum pistons with quick dresses to help keep reciprocating mass to a minimum. These pistons had a compression proportion of 8.0:1. Forged connecting rods had been attached with forged crankshaft that uses ray bearing caps for greater strength and paid down vibration. Cast aluminum minds made use of small pentroof combustion chambers and centered spark plugs for increasing burning effectiveness. The four cams were driven by a single toothed plastic buckle. Oversized consumption and exhaust valves are operated by aluminum roller rocker hands incorporating needle bearing rollers. These aluminum roller rocker hands had been light and offered best valve controls at higher engine speeds.


Mitsubishi 6G72 Engine


Each bank of the V6 had its separate turbocharger and intercooler. Mitsubishi built turbo chargers had been water-cooled to make sure extended solution lifestyle. These turbochargers showcased light turbines that may spool-up as little as 1600RPM. Turbo housings were stainless-steel to lessen weight and enhance heat weight. The intercoolers were using a pressure controls program turn that checked the air force downstream for the intercoolers, controlling the wastegate's launch of extra boost. This technique guaranteed greatest increase after all motor speeds. Air/fuel proportion had been always kept at maximum with computers monitored multi port fuel shot system. The processor managed each injector separately and determined Air/fuel ratio based on the throttle position, RPM, intake atmosphere amount, coolant temperature and barometric force.



6G72 twin-turbo was easily making 325hp in European and US models. Nonetheless JDM versions had been only making 280hp because of the regulations. The production of 6G72 twin-turbo concluded and Mitsubishi GTO in 2001.

Mitsubishi V6 machines are not exactly similar to high-performance. But try not to be fooled -- with turbocharging, MIVEC device technologies and GDI direct shot, there are several engines punching away 200kW+ effortlessly. Aspect in the cheap cost of these motors at Japanese import wreckers in addition they deserve a detailed looks...
Early 6Gs

In Australia, the 6G show V6 debuted into the 1988 Pajero 4 x 4. Upmarket variations for the '88 Pajero arrived powered by a 6G72 system that displaces three litres because of a 91.1mm bore and 76mm swing. The block is cast iron although the two-valve-per-cylinder SOHC heads are made from aluminium. Multi-point EFI -- 'ECI MULTI' - normally used. In standard type, this system generates a fairly moderate 105kW but with a solid scatter of torque. A five-speed handbook and four-speed auto is available.

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In 1993, the 2nd generation Magna and Verada furthermore used 6G power. These motors are fundamentally just like fitted to the Pajero except they may be tuned to deliver 124kW at 5500 rpm and 235Nm at 4000 rpm. These engines may designed for transverse mounting and front-wheel-drive through a five-speed handbook or four-speed automobile trans (car just in the Verada). In 1994, the Starwagon user mover was also made available using 3-litre 6G72. They're car best.

In Japanese marketplace, early generation 6G engine is utilized in an identical spread of cars -- with a few additions.

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The 1989 model 12 months Galant Sigma and Eterna Sigma (recognisable as the first generation Magna) had been equipped with two various 6G machines. Entry level models is run on a 6G711 utilizing a small 74.7mm bore and 76mm stroke for a displacement of 2-litres. With an 8.9:1 compression ratio, this system generates just 77kW/158Nm. Exactly the same motor has also been utilized in base variations of this Debonair. But upmarket 'Duke' models for the Eterna Sigma carry greater 3-litre 6G72 V6 making a much much healthier 110kW at 5000 rpm and 230Nm at the lowest 2500 rpm. These machines include an automobile transmission only.

Contemporary Japanese Pajeros make use of the same 110kW 6G72 as based in the top-line Eterna Sigma and have the option of a handbook gearbox. The upper-spec 1989 Debonair saloon stocks the same system but brings an extra 4kW and 5Nm (probably compliment of its modified consumption manifold arrangement and differing fatigue).

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Eventually, the '93 Diamante truck and top-spec Debonair had been offered with a 10:1 compression form of the 3-litre 6G72 3-litre V6. This motor makes 125kW on premium unleaded (curiously, exactly like the conventional unleaded slurping Australian-spec version).
Multi-Valve 6Gs

Japanese marketplace 6G V6s got multi-valve DOHC respiration around 1990.

The top-of-the-range late '90 Sigma (recognisable whilst the 2nd generation Magna), Debonair saloon and GTO coupe all brag a DOHC multi-valve form of the 3-litre 6G72. This engine's 10:1 compression proportion calls for the use of premium unleaded fuel and production was 154kW into the Sigma/Debonair and 165kW into the GTO. These motors are available to match front and rear-wheel-drive and have a range of manual or automobile transmission.

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A somewhat smaller 2.5-litre version is suited to mid-spec late 1990 Sigmas. This 6G73 engine hires a 83.5mm bore and 76mm stroke crowned with DOHC, four-valve-per-cylinder minds and a 10:1 compression proportion that will require an eating plan of premiums unleaded fuel. Maximum production try 129kW at 6000 rpm and 222Nm at 4500 rpm. More instances are fitted with a computerized transmission but there are several five-speed manual models found.

A 'big banger' 3.5-litre 6G -- the 6G74 -- was released in 1992 utilizing larger bore and swing proportions when compared to 3-litre. The 3.5 try otherwise similar and, in '92 Debonair, it outputs a remarkable 191kW at 6000 rpm. Premium unleaded fuel is necessary to handle the 10:1 compression proportion. The exact same engine -- though designed for longitudinal mounting - was then circulated into the '93 Pajero and produces 169kW.

There is additionally a DOHC type of the 2-litre 6G71 but, inside context among these various other machines, it is almost irrelevant.

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The largest news through the very early '90s was the release associated with Mitsubishi GTO having its twin-turbo 3-litre V6. On the basis of the DOHC 6G72, this engine has a reduced compression ratio (8:1) to allow for the increase force from double turbochargers and double air-to-air intercoolers. The official output try 206kW (the Japanese power limit) at 6000 rpm and 427Nm at just 2500 rpm. This stays the gruntiest V6s off Japan.

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But this engine was closely coordinated because of the 3.5-litre 6G74 MIVEC V6 into the advancement Pajero of 1997. The Evo Pajero makes use of MIVEC adjustable device time and carry to obtain 206W at 6500 rpm and 348Nm at 3000 rpm. Plenty of for a short wheelbase 4 x 4...

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MIVEC tech was also placed on the 3-litre 6G72 V6 found in the 1995 Diamante. Into the Diamante 30M, the MIVEC V6 creates 199kW at 7000 rpm and 301Nm at 4500 rpm. Its 10:1 compression ratio needs utilizing advanced unleaded gas. Unfortunately, this system lasted just two years.

Interestingly, Mitsubishi in addition introduced a multi-valve but SOHC form of the 6G72 3-litre V6. In the Japanese market, these SOHC 24-valve machines are set aside for 1994 Delica, 1996 Challenger 4 x 4 and Diamante wagon. Production are 136kW into the Delica and Challenger even though the Diamante truck delivers 147kW through a regular automobile transmission.

What exactly gets the Australian markets seen since the early '90s?

Better, in belated 1992, Australia gotten limited numbers of the GTO that have been rebadged as 3000GT. This was initial multi-valve Mitsubishi V6 to-arrive in the united kingdom. It seems there have been no significant tuning modifications from the Japanese version (inspite of the restricted availability of ultra high-octane gas) and quoted output are 210kW and 407Nm. Neighborhood sales associated with the 3000GT trickled through until it had been axed in 1997.

Following, Australian Continent saw a multi-valve (but best SOHC) version of the 6G72 3-litre V6 in 1996 third generation Magna. Featuring its multi-valve breathing and 9:1 compression proportion, this system outputs 140kW at 5500 rpm and 255Nm at 4500 rpm. A five-speed handbook or four-speed automobile ended up being provided and deals continuing until 2002.


The major banger 6G -- the 3.5-litre 6G74 -- starred in the '96 Verada and, later, the 1999 Magna. The extra 0.5 litre capability brings an added bonus 7kW and nice torque within these very early versions but revised cam specifications enhanced power to 150kW during 2000. Additional revisions raised the bottom 3.5 to 155kW during 2001.

a superior type of the 3.5 (featuring a free-flow exhaust) was launched in the 2000 magna activities and VR-X. Output was 163kW.



Nevertheless the ultimate form of your local SOHC 3.5-litre are available in the Ralliart Magna which was revealed in 2002. With hot cameras, head work, a somewhat greater compression ratio, headers and motor administration adjustment you're speaking 180kW with no give up in functional torque. Despite the lack of adjustable cam timing or a variable inlet manifold, this remains our favourite engines.


Nowadays, the 3-litre and 3.5-litre 6G engines are replaced by a locally developed 3.8-litre 6G75. The 6G75 uses a 95mm bore and 90mm stroke (both bigger than the 3.5), multi-valve SOHC heads, a 10:1 compression proportion additionally the latest Bosch system management. Maximum result are 175kW at 5250 rpm and 343Nm at 4000 rpm.
GDI 6Gs

An immediate injection version of the 6G V6 ended up being launched to many upmarket Japanese-spec Mitsubishis during belated '90s.


The 1997 Diamante utilizes a 6G72 3-litre DOHC system with a 10:1 compression proportion and Gasoline Direct shot (GDI) technology. Production try 176kW at 5750 rpm and 304Nm at 3500 rpm on premiums unleaded. These engines is installed with an auto transmission and AWD is present. A GDI 3-litre has also been fitted to the '99 Chariot Grandis however with a 10.5:1 compression ratio their production are paid down to 158kW/299Nm.

From 1999, the Diamante has also been offered with a 2.5-litre 6G73 GDi system. Featuring its modest swept capability, output slips to

The biggest capability GDI system ended up being setup into the 1997 Challenger and Pajero 4 x 4. because of the 6G74 3.5-litre V6 since the base, this engine operates DOHC minds, a 10.4:1 compression ratio and direct injections. The effect is an impressive 180kW at 5500 rpm and 343Nm at 4500 rpm. Curiously, the post '99 Pajero try detuned to simply 162kW/348Nm.

As you've probably resolved, it is possible to attain an awesome consequences by combining and matching 6G engine household parts. Patch together customized mix with a big swept ability, MIVEC, GDI and twin-turbochargers therefore'd has some thing pretty special!

Mitsubishi 3.0 V6 6G72 rwd 88-5/94 engine

mitsubishi 6g72 rwd 88-5/94 engine 2972cc. 6g72. v6. 88-5/94. 12 valve. roller rocker. rwd only. with water pump!

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Below is a concise, ordered, theory‑based workflow for diagnosing and repairing an automatic transmission on a vehicle that uses the Mitsubishi 6G72 engine. Each step explains the reasoning (how the transmission works) and how the repair action corrects the fault. I omit shop‑specific torque numbers and exact bolt sequences — focus is on theory and cause→repair relationships.

1) Identify symptoms and history (why this matters)
- Theory: Different failures produce characteristic symptoms (slip, harsh shift, no gear, drag on decel, noise, leak). Those symptoms point to hydraulic pressure loss, mechanical wear, electrical control, or torque converter problems.
- How the repair fixes: Accurate symptom identification narrows the diagnosis so you replace the subsystem that is actually failing, avoiding unnecessary teardown.

2) Check fluid level, color, smell and metal content
- Theory: Automatic transmissions depend on hydraulic pressure provided by clean ATF. Low level or burned/dark fluid indicates overheating, clutch wear, or pump cavitation. Metal flakes indicate internal component wear (clutches, gears, bearings).
- How repair fixes: Restoring correct fluid level and replacing burnt fluid eliminates degraded lubrication/hydraulic performance; finding metal allows targeted internal inspection and replacement of worn parts.

3) Scan TCM and engine ECU for codes and live data
- Theory: Modern autos use solenoid control and electronic shift strategies; the TCM records faults and shows command vs. actual values (solenoid duty, line pressure request, torque converter lockup).
- How repair fixes: Reading codes/localizing to electrical vs hydraulic faults directs repair to solenoids/wiring or to internal hydraulic/mechanical components.

4) Road/bench test and recreate fault while observing behavior
- Theory: Some faults appear only under load, or as shifts adaptively altered by the TCM. Observing shift timing, slippage onset, and RPM behavior reveals whether pressure, clutch friction, or control are at fault.
- How repair fixes: Confirms initial hypothesis so you know whether to proceed to pressure testing, solenoid tests, or mechanical teardown.

5) Static and dynamic hydraulic pressure testing
- Theory: The pump must produce adequate line pressure to apply clutches/bands. Pressure measured at specific ports (idle, drive ranges, gear positions) separates pump/pressure regulator issues from internal leakage/worn clutches.
- How repair fixes: If pressure is low you repair/replace the pump, pump relief valve or torque converter; if pressure is adequate but clutches slip, you go to clutch pack inspection.

6) Check electrical system (solenoids, wiring, connectors) and valve body inputs
- Theory: Solenoids modulate hydraulic circuits; a failed solenoid or wiring fault causes incorrect pressure routing, resulting in wrong or no shifts.
- How repair fixes: Replacing bad solenoids or repairing wiring restores correct hydraulic control without mechanical teardown when fault is electrical.

7) Inspect external components and leaks, linkages and cooler lines
- Theory: External leaks reduce fluid level/pressure. Linkage misadjustment prevents correct gear selection. Cooler restrictions/air in lines cause overheating and low pressure.
- How repair fixes: Sealing leaks, adjusting linkages, and clearing cooler restrictions restore pressure/selection and prevent re‑damage.

8) Remove pan, inspect filter/strainer and valve body for contamination
- Theory: The valve body directs pressure to apply clutches via passages and check balls; plugged filters or contaminated passages alter flow and shift quality. Metal debris often collects in the pan.
- How repair fixes: Replacing the filter and cleaning the pan/strainer removes contamination; if contamination is minor this can resolve intermittent hydraulic malfunctions without full rebuild.

9) Valve body inspection, cleaning, and solenoid testing/reconditioning
- Theory: The valve body valves and bore clearances control shift timing and line pressure. Wear, scoring, or stuck valves cause harsh, delayed, or failed shifts. Solenoid glazing or shorting prevents correct modulation.
- How repair fixes: Restoring valve bore geometry (or replacing the valve body), replacing worn valves/accumulators, and using new solenoids reestablishes correct hydraulic timing and pressure modulation so clutches engage when commanded.

10) Torque converter inspection and testing (stall speed, clutch operation)
- Theory: The torque converter multiplies torque and provides the slip interface; the lock‑up clutch engages to improve efficiency. A failing converter can cause shudder, slip or overheating, and it directly affects line pressure and pump cavitation.
- How repair fixes: Replacing or rebuilding the converter restores proper stall characteristics and lock‑up, eliminating converter‑caused slippage/noise that mimic internal transmission failure.

11) Full teardown when hydraulic tests indicate internal wear (clutch packs, bands, pump, drums)
- Theory: Clutch packs provide friction surfaces to connect gear sets. Over time friction material thins, steels warp, and drums/bearings wear, causing slippage, gear jump, and noise. Pump wear reduces line pressure. Internal leakage paths reduce effective pressure for clutch application.
- How repair fixes: Replacing friction plates, steels, bands, worn drum components, and the pump restores correct friction coefficients, spline fit, and pressure generation — allowing clutch packs to develop torque without slip.

12) Measure clearances, check hard parts, and replace worn components to spec
- Theory: Transmission internals rely on specific endplay and clearance tolerances for proper hydraulic bleed and mechanical engagement. Excessive clearance causes loss of pressure, contamination of servo travel, and improper gear meshing.
- How repair fixes: Machining or replacing worn bushings/bearings, renewing thrust washers and replacing parts out of spec restores geometry so hydraulic circuits and mechanical interfaces operate within designed tolerances.

13) Replace seals, gaskets, filter, and use correct friction materials and torque/assembly practices
- Theory: New seals prevent internal/external leakage; correct friction materials ensure the designed coefficient of friction. Proper assembly torque and clearances ensure reliability and prevent distortion.
- How repair fixes: Prevents recurrence of leaks and clutch slippage; ensures correct engagement and longevity.

14) Reassemble, refill with correct fluid, perform TCM reprogram/adaptation and break‑in
- Theory: Correct fluid viscosity, level, and additive package are required for hydraulic timing and friction performance. TCM adaptations store shift parameters and may need reset after major repairs.
- How repair fixes: Using correct fluid and resetting adaptations allows the TCM to relearn and calibrate shift timing to the renewed hydraulic/mechanical condition, giving smooth, correct shifts.

15) Final road test and pressure/temperature verification
- Theory: Temperature affects fluid viscosity and pressure; final testing under load confirms that pressures, shifts, and torque converter lockup perform across the working range.
- How repair fixes: Confirms repair success; if a fault remains it points to overlooked circuits or parts, guiding a second targeted intervention.

16) Preventive follow‑up
- Theory: Transmission failures often follow overheating, neglected fluid changes, or external faults (engine torque anomalies, vacuum leaks, coolant issues).
- How repair fixes: Addressing root causes (cooler efficiency, engine mounts, driveline alignment) prevents recurrence.

Key internal cause→repair pairings (quick reference)
- Low line pressure (pump wear, relief valve, external leak) → pump/rebuild, valve, seals.
- Slipping in multiple gears (worn clutches/steels, contaminated fluid) → replace clutch packs/steels, filter, fluid.
- Harsh or delayed shifts but normal pressure (valve body/accumulators, solenoids) → valve body rebuild or solenoid replacement.
- Shudder/vibration at lock‑up (torque converter clutch damage) → rebuild/replace converter.
- Electrical faults or limp mode (bad solenoid, TCM, wiring) → test/replace solenoid, repair wiring, reprogram TCM.

Safety note (brief): Transmission work involves heavy components, pressurized fluids, and electrical systems. Use lift and support equipment, relieve pressure before disconnecting lines, and follow safety procedures.

That is the ordered, theory‑centred workflow and how each repair action corrects the underlying fault.
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What the coolant temperature sensor is and why it matters
- The coolant temperature sensor (CTS or ECT) is a thermistor (temperature-dependent resistor) that "tastes" the engine coolant temperature and sends that information as an electrical signal to the engine control unit (ECU) and often separately to the dash gauge. Think of it as a thermometer probe in the engine that tells the car’s brain whether the engine is cold, warm, or overheating.
- The ECU uses that information to set fuel mixture, ignition timing, idle speed, and to operate cooling fans. The dash uses a separate sender or signal to show you temperature. If the CTS is wrong or failing, the ECU gets bad data and the engine can run too rich or too lean, idle poorly, take longer to warm up, or trip diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Cooling fans may run at the wrong times and the gauge may read incorrectly.

Where the sensor is on a Mitsubishi 6G72 and what components to expect
- Typical location: on the cylinder head or the thermostat housing/pipe where coolant flows from the head to the radiator. Exact location varies by trim/year (3.0L 6G72 mounts near the thermostat area). Some cars have two sensors: one for the ECU (ECT) and one for the dash (temperature sender). The ECU sensor is usually a 2- or 3-pin connector; the dash sender is often 1- or 2-terminal.
- Components involved:
- Coolant temperature sensor (thermistor in threaded housing).
- O-ring or sealing washer on the sensor (creates a coolant-tight seal).
- Electrical connector and wiring harness (pins, seal, sometimes a clip).
- ECU (reads signal).
- Dash gauge (if separate sender).
- Thermostat (related — controls coolant flow).
- Radiator, hoses, and coolant (the coolant is the medium the sensor measures).
- Intake air, injectors, ignition — systems that change behavior using the temperature signal.
- Tools you’ll need: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, ratchet and socket set (often 10 mm/12 mm for nearby bolts; sensor itself commonly removed with a deep 19 mm or 22 mm open/box wrench or the correct sensor socket), adjustable wrench or sensor socket, pliers, drain pan, funnel, replacement sensor with correct O-ring, clean shop rags, gloves, safety glasses, multimeter, small wire brush, dielectric grease. Optional: coolant catch bottle, torque wrench (useful), scan tool to read temperatures.

Theory — how the sensor and system work (simple)
- The sensor is an NTC thermistor: as temperature rises, its resistance falls. The ECU measures either resistance directly or a voltage developed through a reference circuit and calculates coolant temperature from that value.
- Cold engine: sensor reads high resistance (interpreted as cold). ECU enriches fuel, raises idle, keeps fans off until necessary.
- Warm engine: resistance is lower (interpreted as warm). ECU leans mixture, reduces idle, enables cooling fans at certain temperatures.
- The thermostat is a mechanical valve that holds coolant in the engine until it reaches operating temperature; the sensor measures the temperature of that coolant.
- Analogy: the sensor is the tongue that tells the brain (ECU) whether the soup (engine) is hot; thermostat is the lid/gate that controls whether hot liquid stays in the pot or flows out to the radiator.

Symptoms of a bad sensor or related failures
- Engine runs rich or leaks fuel economy when warm (ECU thinks engine is cold).
- Hard starting, long warm-up, high idle when engine is warm, or poor performance.
- Check Engine Light with codes such as P0115-P0119 (temperature sensor circuit range/intermittent/low/high) — codes differ by vehicle.
- Cooling fan running constantly or not running when it should.
- Temperature gauge pegged to cold or hot or erratic needle behavior (if gauge sender fails).
- Rough idle, stalls after warm-up, emissions problems.
- Visible coolant leaks at sensor thread or connector damage.

Diagnosing before you replace
- Visual inspection: look for cracked connector, corroded pins, broken wires, coolant weeping at the sensor flange, damaged O-ring.
- Back-probe connector with a multimeter or scan tool:
- With ignition ON (engine OFF), the ECU typically supplies a reference voltage and reads a signal or the ECU measures resistance. You can read a voltage (0–5 V) at the signal pin — cold should be closer to one extreme and warm to the other. Exact behavior depends on sensor wiring.
- Resistance test (sensor out of engine or bench): measure resistance across the sensor terminals while cold and warm. Resistance should fall as it’s warmed. If open circuit, shorted, or doesn’t change, replace. (Exact ohm values vary; consult the vehicle manual. Typical behavior: several kilo-ohms cold, a few hundred ohms hot.)
- Wiring check: measure continuity to the ECU ground and signal if the sensor appears okay. Check for shorts to ground or open circuits.
- Scan tool: read live coolant temperature. Does it change logically as the engine warms up? If it stays stuck or jumps to extremes, suspect sensor or wiring.

Replacement procedure — step-by-step (beginner-friendly)
Safety first
- Work on a cold engine. Never remove a coolant cap or sensor while the system is hot and pressurized — severe burns.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, wear gloves and eye protection.
- Have a drain pan and rags ready. Coolant is toxic — collect and dispose properly.

1) Gather parts and prepare
- Buy the correct replacement sensor for your specific Mitsubishi 6G72 application (year/model). Note whether you need the ECU sensor, the dash sender, or both.
- Get a new O-ring/sealing washer (most sensors use an O-ring; replace it), and fresh coolant if you’ll top up or change any.

2) Locate the sensor
- Open the hood. Find the thermostat housing/coolant outlet on the head or the area where the top radiator hose connects. The sensor will be threaded into the head/pipe there. If unsure, follow the upper radiator hose back to the engine — it meets the thermostat housing where sensors commonly live.

3) Drain coolant to below the sensor level (or use partial drain)
- If the sensor sits below the coolant level, drain enough coolant so the sensor area is not flooded. Use the radiator drain or remove lower hose clamp to drain into a pan. You don’t need to fully drain the system; just get the level below the sensor.
- If the sensor is above the coolant level, you may not need to drain.

4) Disconnect electrical connector
- Unclip the electrical connector; press the tab and pull straight out. If corroded, gently clean pins and housing. Do not pull on wires.

5) Remove the sensor
- Using the correct size wrench or sensor socket, turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it. Have a rag ready — some coolant may seep out.
- Inspect the mounting hole and threads; clean any old O-ring material and corrosion carefully.

6) Prepare and install the new sensor
- Fit the new sensor with its new O-ring. Lightly lubricate the O-ring with clean coolant (don’t use oil or thread sealants unless the part instructs; most sensors use an O-ring and should not be sealed with thread tape).
- Thread the sensor by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten snugly. Recommended torque for small sensors is modest — about 8–12 Nm (70–105 in-lb) or “snug plus a 1/8 to 1/4 turn.” If you have a torque wrench, use the manufacturer spec; if not, avoid overtightening (you’ll strip the aluminum housing if too tight).

7) Reconnect electrical connector
- Reconnect the connector. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the pins to prevent corrosion.

8) Refill and bleed coolant
- Refill the cooling system to the correct level with the recommended coolant mixture (consult owner manual for type and ratio). Start with the coolant reservoir and/or radiator (cap off while bleeding).
- Bleed the system of air: with the radiator cap off and heater set to full hot, start the engine and let it idle. Squeeze upper radiator hose carefully (careful of moving parts) to move air out, watch for bubbles, and top up as necessary. When thermostat opens, coolant level will drop — top up again. Replace cap when stable and no more large bubbles.
- Some cars have specific bleed valves; use them if present.

9) Check operation
- With the engine warm, watch the temperature gauge or use a scan tool to confirm the ECU sees a reasonable temperature rise. Confirm cooling fans come on at the correct temperature and turn off later.
- Inspect the sensor for leaks.
- Clear any stored codes (if you have a scanner) or disconnect the negative battery for a few minutes to reset, then take a short test drive and re-check.

Testing a sensor on the bench or in-car (quick methods)
- Bench resistance test: submerge the sensor tip in water and heat it gradually while measuring resistance with a multimeter. Resistance should fall smoothly as temperature rises.
- In-car voltage test: back-probe the sensor connector. With ignition ON (engine off), record signal voltage. Start the car and watch voltage change as engine warms. Consult wiring diagram or service manual for expected pin(s) and voltage behavior.
- Scan tool: read live coolant temperature. Cold ambient temp should be near ambient; it should rise smoothly to operating temp (typically 80–100 °C for many engines).

Common things that go wrong (and how to avoid them)
- Overtightening and stripping the aluminum head or housing — avoid excessive torque. Always use a new O-ring.
- Using thread sealant or pipe tape when the sensor is designed to seal with an O-ring — this can damage threads or create leaks. Follow replacement part instructions.
- Damaged wiring or corroded connectors — inspect and repair wiring with proper crimps/heat-shrink. Do not twist wires and tape as a permanent fix.
- Not bleeding air properly — trapped air can cause overheating or wrong temperature readings. Bleed carefully.
- Installing the wrong sensor (ECU vs gauge) — they have different resistances and won’t read correctly. Buy the correct part.
- Re-using old O-ring — always replace the seal.
- Working on a hot system — burns from hot coolant. Always do this job cold.

Typical diagnostic codes and meanings
- P0115–P0119 family (or manufacturer-specific codes): often indicate open/shorted/erratic coolant temperature circuit or sensor out of range. Don’t assume code means ECU problem — often a bad sensor, connector, or wiring.

Final checks and tips
- After replacement, monitor engine temperature for a few days and recheck coolant level. Look for slow leaks at the sensor.
- If problems persist after replacing the sensor (temperature reading still wrong), check wiring continuity to the ECU and the ECU input circuit. A bad ground or short can mimic a bad sensor.
- Keep coolant and parts cleaned up; contaminated coolant can cause heater core or radiator problems over time.
- Keep a record of the part number and vehicle fitment for future reference.

Summary (plain)
- The coolant temperature sensor is a simple thermistor that tells the ECU and dash how hot the engine is. Failures lead to poor drivability, bad economy, fan problems, or wrong gauge readings. Replace the sensor when it’s clearly faulty: find it at the thermostat/head, drain coolant as needed, unplug connector, remove sensor, install a new sensor with a new O-ring, refill and bleed the cooling system, then verify operation. Check wiring and connectors if problems continue.

That’s everything you need to replace and understand the coolant temperature sensor on a 6G72 as a beginner mechanic — safety cautions, diagnosis, tools, step-by-step replacement, testing, and common failure modes.
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