- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect eyes and hands from brake dust and sharp parts.
- Work on a flat, level surface and use wheel chocks on the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always support the car with properly rated jack stands.
- Avoid compressed-air cleaning of brake dust (can contain asbestos on very old cars). Use a damp rag or low-pressure shop vacuum.

- Overview: what you’re adjusting and why
- The parking (emergency) brake on cars with the Mitsubishi 6G72 engine is part of the vehicle’s chassis, not the engine; many 6G72-equipped cars use a cable-actuated parking brake that tightens shoes inside a small drum in the rear rotor or operates an internal handbrake inside the rear calipers.
- Adjustment changes cable tension so the lever travel is correct and the rear brakes hold the car when engaged.
- Typical symptom that adjustment is needed: the handbrake lever has excessive travel (many clicks) before it holds, or the car rolls when parked with the brake set.

- Tools you need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Jack (hydraulic floor jack)
- Use to lift the car. Position under the manufacturer’s lift point (consult the vehicle manual). Pump handle to raise until wheel clear of ground.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for the car’s weight)
- Place under solid lift points and slowly lower the vehicle onto stands; they hold the car so you can safely work underneath.
- Wheel chocks (two, rubber/block type)
- Place in front of the front wheels to prevent rolling while rear is lifted.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar + correct socket (usually 19mm or 21mm depending on model)
- Use to loosen and tighten wheel lug nuts. Break them loose before jacking, then remove wheels after the car is on stands.
- Torque wrench
- Use to retighten lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specified torque (typical passenger cars ~80–100 ft·lb but check the specific spec for your vehicle).
- Flashlight or inspection light
- Necessary to see adjuster holes, cables, and brake components under the car.
- Flat screwdriver and/or brake adjustment spoon
- Used to turn the star-wheel adjuster through the backing plate access hole when applicable. A brake spoon is shaped for easier access; a flat screwdriver works if it fits.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Useful for manipulating retaining springs, clips, or cable end tangs when freeing seized parts or during replacement.
- Ratchet and metric socket set (8mm–19mm commonly)
- For removing caliper bolts, backing plate bolts, or unscrewing equalizer nuts if you need to access the cable adjuster.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Spray on seized adjusters, cable connections, or caliper hardware to loosen rusted parts before you try to move them.
- Wire brush
- Clean rust and dirt from threads and adjuster surfaces to ensure smooth operation.
- Brake cleaner and clean rags
- Clean the contact surfaces and remove grease and grime. Don’t spray brake cleaner on rubber hoses; use sparingly.
- C-clamp or caliper piston tool (only if removing caliper or replacing pads)
- Compresses the caliper piston to clearances if you need to open the brake to service shoes/pads.
- Replacement parts kit (only if required — see the parts section)
- New cable, shoes/pads, springs, or hardware kit may be required if components are worn or seized.
- Optional: multimeter or simple continuity tester (for parking brake warning light troubleshooting)
- If the parking brake warning light behaves oddly after adjustment, this can help check the switch or sensor continuity.

- Initial checks before adjusting
- Check handbrake lever travel: with car on level ground, pull the lever and count clicks. Typical acceptable range is about 4–8 clicks; many vehicles specify 5–7. If it takes many more clicks to hold, adjustment is likely needed.
- Try the parking brake on a gentle incline with the transmission in gear (automatic in Park) to verify it holds or slips.
- Inspect rear wheels: remove wheels and visually inspect whether there is visible wear on pads/shoes, seized parking brake actuators, broken springs, or frayed cables.

- Typical adjustment methods (use the one that fits your car)
- Adjust at the handbrake lever (inside cabin)
- How to find and use: remove the trim/boot around the handbrake lever (pull up or remove screws depending on model) to expose the adjuster nut on the cable where it connects to the lever.
- Tool: use the appropriate socket or spanner and pliers. Turn the adjuster nut to shorten the cable (tighten) if lever travel is excessive; back off to loosen.
- How to tell: tighten until lever firm with desired number of clicks (around 4–7). Reinstall trim.
- Adjust at the in-line equalizer under the car (common)
- How to find and use: locate the cable assembly or equalizer under the center tunnel or near the rear axle. There is often an adjusting nut or threaded sleeve that changes tension on both rear cables.
- Tool: socket or spanner to turn the adjustable nut; use penetrating oil if corroded. Use pliers to hold the cable if it turns.
- How to tell: tighten incrementally and test lever travel; if you over-tighten, the rear wheels will drag when the brake is released.
- Adjust at the rear brake assembly (star-wheel adjuster inside backing plate)
- How to find and use: lift the rear, remove wheel, locate small rubber plug on the brake backing plate or rotor; remove plug to expose the star wheel.
- Tool: brake spoon or flat screwdriver inserted through the access hole to turn the star wheel. Turn the wheel up (tighten) until slight drag is felt on the drum/rotor, then back it off a little so the wheel spins freely with minimal drag.
- Direction: most star-wheel adjusters are directional — turning one way tightens, the other loosens. Turn small increments and spin the wheel to check.
- For rear-disc-with-internal-drum shoes: you may need to retract the caliper slightly to get access; follow caliper removal and insertion instructions if necessary.
- Adjust at the caliper (integrated parking brake mechanisms)
- How to find and use: some calipers have an external adjuster or a handbrake lever with a retaining clip; check the caliper service manual for the exact method. You may need to drive the star wheel from the access while rotating the internal cam.
- Tool: small ratchet or star-wheel adjuster tool if required.

- Step-by-step procedure (practical sequence in bullets)
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, and set parking brake.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly with the car on the ground.
- Jack the rear and support securely on jack stands. Remove rear wheels.
- Visually inspect brake assembly: pads/shoes condition, hardware, and cable routing.
- Locate the adjuster (handbrake lever, in-line equalizer, or star-wheel behind backing plate).
- If star-wheel type:
- Remove rubber access plug in backing plate or rotor hat.
- Insert brake spoon or flat screwdriver and turn the star wheel in small increments.
- After each small turn, spin the wheel: aim for a very slight drag when free-spun, then back off one notch so it spins freely with a tiny amount of drag when handbrake is disengaged.
- If in-line equalizer or lever adjuster:
- Apply penetrating oil to threads if corroded and clean with wire brush.
- Tighten the adjuster half-turn at a time and check lever travel by pulling the handbrake lever (or re-fit wheels and lower vehicle briefly to test).
- Reinstall wheel, hand-tighten lug nuts, lower car, then torque lug nuts to spec with torque wrench.
- Test lever travel and holding power on level ground and on a small incline. Ensure there is no excessive drag when disengaged.
- If one side binds or the adjuster won’t move, inspect for seized cable or frozen components — replacement may be required.

- How to use the tools during the job (concise)
- Jack and jack stands: lift at manufacturer lift points; lower slowly onto stands; never let the car rest only on the jack.
- Lug wrench/socket: break lug nuts loose before lifting; remove completely when wheel is off; tighten in star pattern when reinstalling and torque to spec.
- Penetrating oil and wire brush: spray on threads and moving parts, let soak 5–10 minutes, brush to remove rust before turning adjusters.
- Brake spoon/flat screwdriver: insert through access hole and push/pull or pry to rotate the star wheel. Use gentle, controlled motion; don’t force.
- Pliers: remove retaining clips and springs carefully; use needle-nose for small springs.
- Torque wrench: final tightening of lug nuts to proper torque to avoid warped rotors or wheel failure.

- Parts that might need replacement, why, and when
- Parking brake cable (inner/outer)
- Why replace: frayed, stretched, corroded, kinked, or seized cables prevent proper adjustment or cause uneven braking. Cables can stretch over time and lose responsiveness.
- What to buy: OE-style parking brake cable(s) or quality aftermarket equivalent for your exact vehicle model (match length and attachment ends).
- Parking brake hardware kit (springs, pins, retainers)
- Why replace: springs and clips weaken/corrode over time and can break, causing the shoes to stick or not return properly.
- What to buy: a rear brake hardware kit that matches drum/parking-shoe hardware or a pad/clip kit for disc calipers with parking brake shoes.
- Brake shoes or pads (and possibly rotors/drums)
- Why replace: worn shoes/pads reduce clamping force and lead to excessive lever travel. Rotors with internal drums can be scored or out-of-round.
- What to buy: rear shoes (if drum-in-hat) or parking-brake-compatible pads and possibly rear rotors if damaged.
- Self-adjuster or star wheel assembly
- Why replace: if the star wheel is stripped, corroded, or won’t move even after penetrating oil, it should be replaced so the system can be adjusted.
- What to buy: a replacement self-adjuster mechanism or backing plate assembly as required.
- Rear caliper (if integrated parking brake and jammed)
- Why replace: caliper lever/cam may be seized, or the internal mechanism may be broken. If the caliper won’t retract or the e-brake mechanism is damaged, replacement is needed.
- What to buy: OE or quality remanufactured caliper for your vehicle.
- Complete cable kit or rear brake rebuild kit
- Why replace: if multiple components are worn or corroded, a kit saves time and ensures correct fitment.

- How to know replacement is required (quick tests)
- Cable does not move by hand after applying penetrating oil and trying the adjuster.
- Handbrake lever tightens and then suddenly releases or slips — indicates a frayed or smoked cable.
- Visual heavy corrosion, missing springs, or broken retaining hardware.
- Excessive uneven pad/shoe wear between left and right.

- Post-adjustment testing
- With car on ground, engage parking brake and try to roll the car by hand (or in gear). The brake should hold on a modest incline.
- Release brake and spin rear wheels by hand (with car lifted) — they should rotate with minimal resistance. If wheels drag when released, back off the adjuster slightly.
- Check handbrake lever travel; it should be firm within the typical range (about 4–8 clicks).
- Take a slow test drive and engage/disengage parking brake at low speed to confirm it releases cleanly and warning light (if fitted) behaves normally.

- Quick troubleshooting tips (no nonsense)
- If one rear wheel binds after adjustment: the opposing wheel likely needs loosening; check cables for binding or seized caliper slide pins.
- If adjuster won’t move: soak with penetrating oil and tap lightly with a hammer; if still stuck, replacement of the adjuster/cable will be necessary.
- If you suspect the parking-brake switch/warning light: the switch is usually at the lever or a sensor on an equalizer; replacement or cleaning of contacts may be required.

- Final safety reminders
- Re-torque lug nuts after the first 50–100 miles of driving.
- If you are unsure about any seized or broken components, replace them rather than forcing parts — brakes are critical for safety.
- Consider a professional brake inspection if the system is heavily corroded, if you find broken hardware, or if the handbrake still won’t hold after adjustment.

This gives you the methods, tool uses, how-to actions, and the common parts that may need replacement. Follow the method that matches the adjuster location on your vehicle (handbrake lever, in-line equalizer, or star-wheel behind the rear backing plate).
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