Tools & supplies
- Quality threaded-coil spring compressor (two-hook screw type or OEM-style strut compressor). Never use single-hook or improvised tools.
- Floor jack + good jackstands (2) and wheel chocks.
- Socket/ratchet set, deep sockets (including for strut top nut, often 18–22 mm).
- Small hex/Allen or Torx bit (to hold piston rod if required).
- Breaker bar, torque wrench.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster), wire brush.
- Pry bar, hammer, needle-nose pliers.
- New parts: upper spring seat/insulator (rubber), strut mount/bearing (recommended), bump stop and dust boot (if torn), new strut top nut (recommended). Replace the whole strut if leaking/weak.
- Shop gloves, safety glasses.

Safety precautions (must read)
- Work on a level surface. Chock rear wheels. Never rely on the jack alone — always use jackstands.
- Use a proper spring compressor and inspect it before use. If hooks/pins are worn or bent, replace the tool.
- Compress the spring evenly on opposite sides. NEVER remove the strut top nut until the spring is fully compressed and cannot move.
- Keep your body clear of the spring arc while compressing or decompressing.
- If a compressor slips or you hear sudden release, step back immediately.
- If you must use an impact wrench on the top nut, be certain the spring is fully compressed and the compressor will hold; otherwise hold the piston rod with the correct holding tool to prevent shaft damage.

Step-by-step procedure (front MacPherson-style strut — applicable to Mitsubishi vehicles using 6G72)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack, support on jackstands under designated pinch welds or subframe. Remove wheel.
- Locate strut assembly in wheel well.

2) Remove strut from car
- Disconnect sway bar end link from strut (if attached).
- Unbolt brake hose/bracket and ABS sensor bracket from strut.
- Support the hub/knuckle (jack or stand) so the lower control arm won’t drop when bolts are removed.
- Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts (usually 2). You may need an impact or breaker bar; use penetrating oil if seized.
- Under the hood (strut tower), remove the upper strut nuts (usually 2 or 3) but do not remove the center nut holding the strut rod yet. Support strut while removing top nuts, then lift the strut out of the vehicle.

3) Prepare for spring removal
- Clean dirt/grease from strut housing and spring area. Put strut on a workbench (bracket down).
- Fit the spring compressor: place two compressor hooks opposite each other, positioned in the spring coils about 180° apart and aligned over each other, away from the coil ends. If using a bench-type compressor follow its instructions.
- Tighten both compressors evenly in small increments, alternating sides to keep spring even. Compress until the spring has noticeable slack and the upper spring seat can be moved freely (coils should not be under tension).

How the compressor is used (critical details)
- Keep compressor hooks engaged on the inner radius of the coils, not the outer tips.
- Alternate tightening (about 1–2 turns per side) so compression stays balanced.
- Stop compressing when the spring is safely seated on the compressor and the strut rod can be moved without spring tension. Do not over-compress the spring until coils touch or the compressor bottoms out.
- Check that both compressor threads are fully engaged and straight; bent compressors are dangerous.

4) Disassemble strut
- With spring compressed, hold the piston rod using the correct hex/holding tool or by securing the strut in a vise with protective padding on the shaft (do not clamp the chrome shaft). If the piston rod has a hex head, use that to prevent rotation.
- Remove the strut top nut (center nut) and take off the upper mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop, and spring seat as necessary.
- Carefully remove the compressed spring and set aside. Inspect spring for cracks/coil wear; replace if rusted or damaged.

5) Inspect and replace parts
- Inspect strut shaft for scoring or oil leakage. If leaking or noisy, replace strut assembly.
- Replace rubber upper spring seat/insulator and bearing — these commonly wear and cause noise. Replace dust boot and bump stop if torn or deteriorated.
- If reusing the spring, wire-brush and clean spring seats and remove rust. Apply light rust-preventive if needed.

6) Reassembly
- Place spring on lower seat, position new upper seat/bearing/dust boot/bump stop on top of the spring.
- Reinstall compressed spring onto strut and upper mount. Thread the top nut on a few turns by hand.
- Slowly and evenly release the spring compressors, alternating sides. As the spring takes load, ensure it seats correctly in the upper and lower seats and that the locating tabs or ends align with the perch. Do this slowly and watch for any shifting.
- Once fully seated and compressors removed, torque the top nut to factory spec (consult factory manual). If you don't have the spec, do not under-torque — typical passenger car top nut torque ranges 30–70 Nm depending on model — but verify before final torque.

7) Reinstall strut
- Position strut back into the strut tower and loosely install upper nuts to hold it.
- Align and insert the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts. Torque lower bolts and upper nuts to factory specs.
- Reattach sway bar end link, brake hose bracket, ABS sensor bracket. Torque per specs.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts in star pattern to spec.
- It’s mandatory to perform a wheel alignment after reassembling suspension components.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using a poor/cheap or damaged compressor: can slip and release the spring violently. Use a heavy-duty, rated unit and inspect before use.
- Compressing unevenly: always alternate and compress both sides equally.
- Removing top nut before spring is secure: this is the single most dangerous error. Never remove until spring is fully compressed and cannot move.
- Reusing worn strut mount/bearing: leads to noise and short service life. Replace upper mount and bearing whenever you service the seat.
- Damaging the strut shaft with a vise or pliers: protect chrome shaft or use a proper rod-holding tool; damage will ruin the seal.
- Forgetting to align spring seat/index: ensure the spring end sits in the lower cup and upper isolator is correctly oriented to avoid clunks or steering pull.
- Not replacing dust boot/bump stop: causes premature strut failure.

Parts typically required or strongly recommended
- Upper spring seat/insulator (rubber pad)
- Strut mount and bearing (upper mount)
- Dust boot and bump stop
- Strut top nut (replace if corroded)
- Consider replacing the entire strut if leaking, worn, or if the vehicle is older

Final notes
- Always refer to the Mitsubishi factory service manual for your specific model/year for exact torque values and any model-specific removal details.
- After repair, road-test carefully and get a professional wheel alignment.

No further questions.
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