Straight, practical guide — theory, components, tools, step‑by‑step replacement, reassembly, checks, and failure modes. No fluff.

Why this repair is needed (theory, in plain language)
- The front suspension on most Mitsubishis with the 6G72 engine uses a MacPherson strut: the strut assembly combines a shock absorber (dampens bumps) and a coil spring (supports vehicle weight). The top of the strut bolts to the body through the strut mount.
- The strut mount does three jobs: (1) mechanically anchors the spring/strut to the body, (2) isolates vibration and road noise (rubber/insulator), and (3) contains a bearing or race that lets the strut rotate slightly as you steer. Think of the mount as a pillow with a swivel built in.
- Over time the rubber degrades, the bearing can wear or seize, and the top nut/threads/cup can corrode. Symptoms: clunks over bumps, creaking or grinding when steering, looseness in steering, uneven tire wear, vibration felt through the steering wheel or body. Replace the mount when it’s noisy, loose, or visually deteriorated.
- Analogy: the strut is a pogo stick (spring + damper). The mount is the wrist cuff — if the cuff tears or the swivel rusts, the pogo becomes noisy or unsafe.

Components you’ll encounter (what each part is and why it matters)
- Strut cartridge / shock absorber: piston and tube that control bounce speed. If damaged, ride is bouncy or harsh.
- Coil spring: supports vehicle weight and stores energy. It’s under high compressive force.
- Strut mount (top mount): rubber insulator + metal plate that bolts to strut tower. Replaces worn rubber.
- Strut bearing / thrust race (if equipped): allows rotation for steering. A seized bearing causes steering noise/heavy feel.
- Top strut nut (shaft nut): secures mount to the strut rod.
- Upper strut tower and nuts: body attachment points.
- Lower strut bolts/stud and nuts: attach strut to steering knuckle.
- Sway bar endlink, brake hose bracket, ABS sensor wire bracket: attached to the strut/knuckle and must be removed.
- Tie rod end and possibly lower ball joint (if removal requires): disconnect to free the knuckle.
- Spring compressors: mandatory tool to safely remove spring preload.
- Hub/knuckle, wheel bearing — you’ll be near these but typically don’t remove unless necessary.

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- NEVER remove the top nut with the spring uncompressed. The coil spring stores large energy and can kill or severely injure if released.
- Use quality, matched spring compressors and inspect them before use. Handheld C‑clamp style or hook‑type made for coil springs are required.
- Use jack stands on solid level ground. Chock rear wheels.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear of compressed spring.
- If you don’t have correct tools or are uncomfortable with compressed springs, buy a new complete strut assembly pre‑assembled (strut + spring + mount) and swap the whole unit — safest option.

Tools & parts (typical)
- Tools: floor jack, 2 jack stands, wheel chocks, 17–22 mm sockets and wrenches (sizes vary by model), breaker bar, torque wrench, ratchet, boxed set of sockets, penetrating oil, pliers, hammer, punch, pry bar, screwdriver set, tie‑rod separator or pickle fork, spring compressors (pair), shop rags.
- Specialty: impact gun (helps), torque wrench that covers required range.
- Parts: new strut mount(s) (and bearing if separate), strut shaft nut (often replace), new strut or rebuild kit if shock is worn, replacement bolts/nuts if corroded, new swaybar endlink nuts if needed.
- Manual: factory service manual or trusted repair manual (Haynes/Chilton) for model/year-specific details and torque specs.

High-level workflow (what you will do)
1. Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
2. Unbolt attachments from strut (swaybar link, brake line bracket, ABS wire, tie rod end).
3. Remove lower strut fasteners and loosen upper strut tower nuts (leave a couple threads until ready).
4. Remove strut assembly from vehicle.
5. Compress spring, remove top nut, replace mount/bearing.
6. Reassemble compressed spring onto new mount, torque top nut to spec.
7. Reinstall strut into car, tighten lower and upper fasteners to factory torque.
8. Reattach everything, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts, and get a wheel alignment.

Step‑by‑step procedure (detailed)
Note: the exact bolt sizes and torque values vary by model year. Use factory spec if available. I give the procedure generically for a front strut on a Mitsubishi 6G72 application.

Preparation
- Park on level ground, block rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly (while car on ground).
- Jack the car at the recommended jacking point and support on jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Remove front wheel.

Remove strut from car
1. Spray penetrating oil on bolts/nuts likely corroded (lower strut bolts, swaybar link nut, tie rod end nut).
2. Disconnect ABS sensor wire and brake line bracket from strut/knuckle (remove small bracket bolts). Secure lines out of the way — do not stretch the brake hose.
3. Remove sway bar endlink nut at the strut if it attaches there.
4. Separate tie rod end from the steering knuckle: remove cotter pin and nut, use a tie‑rod puller or strike the knuckle (careful) to free it.
5. Support the lower control arm with a jack or block so the hub/knuckle doesn’t fall and stress brake lines.
6. Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts. There may be two large bolts or a single large nut on a stud.
7. At the top of the strut tower (under the hood), loosen and remove the three upper nut(s) that hold the strut mount to the strut tower. Important: leave one nut on a couple threads or hold the strut while doing the last one so it doesn’t drop.
8. Carefully remove the strut assembly from below the wheel well. Lower it out without letting it hang by brake hose (you detached brackets).

Disassemble strut (use spring compressors)
1. Secure the strut in a vise or on a stable surface (protect threads). Attach two spring compressors opposite each other onto the coil spring and tighten them in small increments alternately until the spring is sufficiently compressed and loose on the strut seat — the top strut nut should be possible to loosen.
- Safety: compress evenly and only with matched compressors. If you see slipping or deformation, stop and re‑position.
2. Remove the top strut nut (hold the strut shaft with an appropriate hex or through‑bolt tool). Some struts have a hex on the shaft; others need an Allen key inserted into the shaft end. If in doubt, use a strap wrench and controlled force or an impact gun if available.
3. Remove top mount, bearing, rubber insulator, and any dust boot or bump stop components. Note orientation of parts for reassembly (take photos).
4. Inspect spring for cracks, coil sag, or damaged paint. Inspect strut shaft for fluid leaks, scoring, or bent rod. If the shock is bad, replace the entire cartridge or the complete strut.

Install new mount and reassemble
1. Put the new mount (and new bearing if separate) on the strut shaft in the correct orientation. Replace any worn dust boot or bump stop.
2. Reinstall the spring seat and the compressed spring. Make sure the bottom of the spring seats correctly in the lower perch notch and the top seat aligns with the mount’s locating lip.
3. Install the new top nut and tighten while holding the shaft so the assembly is compressed. Torque to factory specification (or tight enough that the assembly is secure but do not overtighten). If you don’t have the exact torque, tighten snugly then a specific angle/torque per manual — again, consult factory manual.
4. Slowly and evenly release the spring compressors, watching that the spring seats fully and nothing binds.

Reinstall the strut
1. Position the strut assembly into the strut tower from below and start the upper nuts by hand (do not fully tighten yet unless instructed by the manual — some recommend final upper nut torque after lower bolt load).
2. Reattach the lower strut to the knuckle, torque lower strut bolts to spec.
3. Reattach tie rod end, replace cotter pin if used, torque to spec.
4. Reattach sway bar endlink nut and any bracketed hoses/pipes/wires.
5. Torque upper strut mount nuts to the factory torque spec.
6. Reinstall the wheel, lower the car to the ground, and torque lug nuts to spec.

Checks and post‑install
- Check brake lines and ABS wiring for proper routing and no rubbing.
- Bounce the vehicle to seat the suspension; listen for abnormal noises.
- Important: get a professional wheel alignment after replacing strut mounts or any front suspension work. Improper alignment causes uneven tire wear and handling issues.
- Re‑check torque on major fasteners after 50–100 miles.

What can go wrong (common failure modes and repair mistakes)
- Spring lets go: if spring compressors slip or are improper, the spring can violently eject. Catastrophic injury risk.
- Incorrect reassembly: spring not seated properly causes clunking or can pop out when uncompressed.
- Seized bearing not replaced: steering noise and premature wear persists.
- Damaged brake hose/ABS wire when removing or reinstalling: could cause brake failure or ABS fault.
- Over‑ or under‑torqued fasteners: can shear bolts or allow components to loosen; use a torque wrench.
- Not aligning the vehicle: poor handling and rapid tire wear.
- Mixing old and new parts: if shock is worn and only mount is replaced, you may not fix ride/handling problems. Consider replacing the strut cartridge or whole assembly if the shock leaks or is weak.
- Rusted bolts break: be ready with replacement bolts and know how to extract broken studs safely.

Troubleshooting after repair
- Persistent clunk when turning: check bearing orientation and upper nuts; ensure mount bearing installed.
- Vibration in steering: check that top nut is tightened correctly and the bearing is free to rotate.
- Pulling to one side or uneven tire wear: likely need alignment.
- Brake pedal soft or ABS light on: verify brake line not kinked/damaged and ABS sensor connector is cleanly reinstalled.

Torque and model specifics
- Exact bolt sizes and torques vary by vehicle (Galant, Diamante, 3000GT, Montero, etc.) and year. Always verify torque specs and bolt patterns in the factory service manual for your specific vehicle. If you cannot access it, many tech forums, repair manuals, or dealership parts departments can supply exact numbers.

If you want the absolutely safest route
- Buy a complete front strut assembly pre‑built with the new mount installed. Swap the entire unit without compressing the spring. It’s more expensive but eliminates spring‑compressor risk and is a common DIY shortcut for beginners.

Done — follow safety protocols, do not rush, and get a professional alignment after.
rteeqp73

Buy Crankshaft MD144525 for Mitsubishi 6G72 Engine Buy Crankshaft MD144525 for Mitsubishi 6G72 Engine.

6G72 Engine Assembly - Part 15 - Transmission Install Watch as I wrestle the transmission back onto the engine by myself. Last video before the engine goes back into the engine bay.

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