Safety first — brief mandatory points
- Work in a well-ventilated, non-sparking area with no open flames or smoking; gasoline vapors are highly flammable.
- Wear safety glasses, chemical-resistant gloves, and keep a charged ABC fire extinguisher nearby.
- If you feel unsure at any step, stop and have a qualified mechanic complete the job.

Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Socket set (metric, 8–19 mm common sizes) with ratchet and extensions
- Use sockets to remove tank straps, pump retaining bolts, and fuel tank mounting bolts. Choose the correct size to avoid rounding bolts. Use an extension to reach recessed fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type, metric range)
- Use to tighten bolts to specified torque on tank straps, pump ring, and any fasteners that require a specific torque. Prevents over- or under-tightening.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- For nuts/bolts in tight spots where a socket won’t fit. Use correct size and pull on the wrench — avoid jerking.
- Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
- For hose clamps, clips, and small screws. Use the correct tip to avoid damage and slipping.
- Needle-nose pliers and slip-joint pliers
- For removing spring clips, clamps, and electrical connectors. Grip firmly and pull straight to avoid damaging connectors.
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool (if your Delica uses quick-connect fittings)
- Insert the correct size tool into the fitting to release the retaining collar and separate fuel lines safely. Using wrong tool can break fittings.
- Jack and jack stands (rated capacity) or secure hoist
- Support vehicle safely before going underneath. Use jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wheel chocks
- Prevent vehicle rolling while jacked.
- Approved fuel container and manual siphon pump (not by mouth)
- To capture drained fuel safely. Use only approved containers and a manual pump.
- Drain pan and absorbent shop rags
- Catch spills and clean surfaces; absorbent rags remove small leaks.
- Fuel pressure gauge (car-type, appropriate adapter)
- To test fuel system pressure before and after replacement to confirm pump operation and diagnose issues.
- Multimeter (digital)
- To check battery voltage at the pump connector and pump current/continuity. Useful for diagnosing electrical faults.
- Pry bar or small crowbar (optional)
- Gently separate stuck tank straps or pry a stuck access cover.
- Hammer and punch (optional)
- For carefully removing a corroded retaining ring if necessary; use sparingly.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner or contact cleaner
- Clean electrical connectors and pump mounting surfaces before reassembly.
- Replacement hose clamps and fuel hose (if old hoses are cracked)
- Old rubber hoses may be brittle; replace to prevent leaks.
- Disposable gloves and safety glasses (PPE)
- Protect hands and eyes from fuel.

Parts you will likely need and why
- Complete in-tank fuel pump assembly (specific to your Delica L300 year/engine)
- Most Delica L300s use an in-tank electric pump assembly. Replace the whole assembly if pump fails, noisy, or low pressure. Buying the complete assembly ensures correct strainer, pump, and sender fit.
- Fuel strainer (sock)
- Attaches to the pump inlet; often clogged or deteriorated. Always replace when replacing pump.
- O-ring / sealing gasket for pump access flange or locking ring
- Prevents fuel leaks between pump assembly and tank. Reuse is risky — replace with new seal.
- Inline or in-tank fuel filter (if separate on your model)
- Prevents debris from clogging injectors; replace as recommended or when changing pump.
- Fuel line fittings / clamps / hoses
- Replace any cracked, bulged or corroded hoses/clamps to avoid leaks.
- Pump relay and fuse (optional)
- If pump doesn’t energize, relay or fuse may be culprit; have replacements available for diagnosis.
- Float/sender (if faulty and integrated with pump)
- If fuel gauge behaves incorrectly, the sender (often part of assembly) may need replacement.

Pre-replacement checks (to confirm pump needs replacement)
- Listen for pump prime: with ignition on (engine off), listen at rear of vehicle for ~2 seconds humming. No hum suggests pump not receiving power or failed.
- Check fuel pressure with a gauge at the test port (or at fuel rail) and compare to spec for your engine. Low/no pressure suggests pump or electrical fault.
- Use a multimeter at the pump connector to confirm battery voltage present when key ON/cranking. No voltage → electrical issue, not pump.
- Check pump ground and relay/fuse before dropping tank.

Step-by-step procedure (general Delica L300 in-tank pump approach — access and fasteners vary by model year)
- Relieve fuel system pressure
- Remove fuel pump fuse/relay, start engine and let it stall, or use manufacturer method to depressurize. This reduces spray when lines are disconnected.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal
- Prevents sparks during fuel system work. Use a 10 mm socket/wrench to loosen.
- Access pump (check for an access panel under rear seat or in luggage area first)
- Many L300s have an access cover under the rear bench; remove trim/seat to expose cover. If no access, you must safely lower the fuel tank (see below).
- If tank must be dropped: block wheels, jack vehicle, support on stands, chock wheels
- Drain fuel into approved container with manual siphon to reduce weight. Use jack under tank with a wide board and support straps while loosening tank straps.
- Disconnect electrical connector and fuel lines at pump assembly
- Release connectors using pliers or quick-disconnect tool. Catch any dripping fuel in a pan.
- Clean the area around the pump before opening
- Use brake cleaner to remove dirt to avoid dropping debris into tank.
- Remove retaining ring or bolts holding pump assembly
- If ring is corroded, use hammer and punch carefully to tap the ring out; take note of original orientation. Keep magnet or cloth nearby to catch debris.
- Carefully lift the pump assembly out of the tank
- Slowly remove to avoid bending float arm (sender) and disturbing remaining fuel. Keep assembly upright to avoid spillage.
- Replace pump, strainer, and seals
- Swap the old pump/strainer with new assembly or install new pump into old housing if applicable. Replace the O-ring/seal with new one. Ensure the float moves freely and wiring is correct.
- Reinstall pump assembly into tank, secure with ring/bolts and new seal
- Torque to manufacturer spec if specified; if unknown, snug evenly and avoid overtightening.
- Reconnect fuel lines and electrical connectors
- Use new clamps on hoses if rubber showed age. Ensure quick-disconnect fittings click into place.
- Reinstall tank or access cover, reconnect battery
- If you dropped the tank, lift back in place with jack, tighten straps to specified torque, and reconnect any vent or filler hoses.
- Prime the system and check for leaks
- Reinstall pump relay/fuse; turn ignition ON (do not start) to allow pump to prime for a few seconds, cycle key 2–3 times. Inspect for leaks around pump and lines.
- Test fuel pressure and start engine
- Verify correct pressure with gauge. Start engine and check for proper idle and no leaks.
- Final checks
- Re-torque tank straps and fasteners after a short test drive. Dispose of old fuel and parts per local regulations.

How to use some key tools safely and effectively (concise)
- Ratchet/socket: select socket that snugly fits bolt; pull toward you in full strokes; use extensions for reach. Do not use cheater bars on small ratchets.
- Torque wrench: set target torque, tighten smoothly until click; store properly after use.
- Fuel line disconnect tool: push tool fully into the connector to release retaining clip, then pull line straight off. Practice on a scrap fitting if first time.
- Jack and stands: lift at designated jacking points, support with stands placed under pinch welds or differential/axle points; lower jack until stands take load, never work under car on just a jack.
- Multimeter: set to DC volts, touch red to positive terminal and black to ground. For continuity or resistance, remove power and follow meter instructions.
- Fuel pressure gauge: connect to Schrader/test port or adapter; start pump and read pressure; compare to spec.

Common problems and extra tools/parts required
- Corroded locking ring: you may need a locking-ring removal tool or punch/hammer; ring can be stubborn and require careful tapping.
- Stiff electrical connectors: dielectric grease and a small pick help; replacement connector may be needed if melted or corroded.
- Rusted tank straps or bolts: penetrating oil, wire brush, or replacement bolts/straps may be necessary.
- If pump doesn’t run after replacement: check relay, fuse, ground, and wiring with multimeter. Have a spare relay and fuse handy.

Post-installation and disposal
- Test for leaks thoroughly before driving.
- Properly dispose of old pump, filter, and contaminated rags per local hazardous-waste rules.
- Record date and mileage of replacement.

If you want specific torque specs, parts numbers, or an exact access method for your Delica L300’s model year, consult the factory service manual or a parts fiche for your VIN. If unsure at any stage, have a professional mechanic finish the job.
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- Safety first
- Ensure engine is completely cold (wait several hours after running) to avoid scalding from hot coolant or steam.
- Work on a flat surface; set parking brake and chock rear wheels.
- Wear safety goggles and nitrile gloves; coolant is toxic and irritating.
- Have a large drip/containment pan and absorbent rags ready for spills; keep pets and children away from spilled coolant.

- Overview of the job (what you will do)
- Drain the cooling system, remove fan shroud and hoses, unbolt and remove the old radiator, transfer or replace fittings and hoses as needed, install new radiator, refill and bleed the system, check for leaks and proper temperature operation.

- Tools you should have (detailed description and how to use each)
- Metric socket set and ratchet
- Description: ratchet handle with a set of sockets (8–19 mm commonly used). Sockets fit over nuts/bolts and the ratchet lets you turn them without repositioning.
- How to use: pick correct socket size, push onto bolt head, use ratchet clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen; use extension bars to reach recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Description: open-end on one side, boxed (12-point or 6-point) on the other for stubborn fasteners or where socket won’t fit.
- How to use: place boxed end squarely on bolt, pull toward the closed end; use open end in tight spots. Use flare-nut wrench for soft fittings.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: flat blade and cross-head used for hose clamps, trim fasteners.
- How to use: use correct head to avoid stripping; flat blade can pry clips gently.
- Pliers (slip-joint and needle-nose)
- Description: general gripping tools; slip-joint for larger grips, needle-nose for reach.
- How to use: use to pull off small clips and anti-siphon valves, hold items firmly; don’t use pliers as a substitute for a proper wrench on bolts.
- Hose clamp pliers / spring-clip pliers OR long-nose pliers
- Description: specialized pliers to remove spring-style spring clamps; long-nose can be used for screw-type if needed.
- How to use: compress spring clamp and slide it away from hose bead; for screw clamps, use a screwdriver or nut driver.
- Drain pan (large)
- Description: wide shallow container to catch drained coolant.
- How to use: position under radiator drain petcock or loosened hose, catch fluid, then transfer to sealed container for disposal/recycling.
- Funnel
- Description: used to pour coolant/antifreeze without spills.
- How to use: place in filler neck when refilling to avoid splashing.
- Jack and jack stands (if bottom clearance is needed)
- Description: hydraulic floor jack lifts car; stands support it safely.
- How to use: use jack to raise at manufacturer jacking point, place jack stands under solid points, lower car onto stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Work gloves and safety glasses
- Description: protect skin and eyes from coolant and sharp fins/edges.
- How to use: wear during entire job.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Description: wrench that sets the torque to bolts to factory spec, preventing over- or under-tightening.
- How to use: set desired torque value, tighten bolt until wrench clicks.
- Shop rags and plastic garbage bags
- Description: for cleanup and containing old parts/coolant.
- How to use: wipe up spills immediately; bag used hoses/rags.
- Optional but very helpful: hose removal tool / radiator hose pick
- Description: plastic or metal tool to break seal of old hoses without cutting radiator neck.
- Why it’s useful: prevents tearing radiator plastic fittings or mangling hose bead.
- Optional but recommended: vacuum coolant fill or “bleeder” kit
- Description: pumps air out while filling so coolant is introduced without trapped air pockets.
- Why it’s useful: makes bleeding the system easier and reduces overheating risk from air locks.
- If your Delica has an automatic transmission: flare-nut wrench or line disconnect tool and small container for ATF
- Description: flare-nut wrench fits hex-shaped transmission cooler fittings and reduces rounding; disconnect tools are used on quick-connect lines.
- Why required: to detach transmission cooler lines without damaging fittings; expect some ATF leakage.

- Extra tools you might need and why
- Putty knife or thin pry bar: to remove stubborn plastic shrouds/clips without breaking them.
- Electric trim clip tool: safely pops plastic clips on grille/shroud.
- Radiator pressure tester (diagnostic): to check leaks under pressure after install.
- Small brush or compressed air: clean debris from core area; use carefully to avoid bending fins.
- Replacement clamps, hoses, O-rings: old rubber/soft parts often fail; replacing while you’re in there saves repeat labor.

- Parts you may need to replace and why
- Radiator (core/assembly)
- Why: leaking, corroded, internally clogged, or damaged fins; if the radiator is old or has visible external leaks or coolant loss, replace it.
- What to get: a direct-fit new or good-quality aftermarket radiator for Mitsubishi Delica L300 (match engine/automatic or manual transmission version).
- Upper and lower radiator hoses
- Why: rubber degrades, cracks, bulges; replacing prevents leaks and future failures.
- What to get: OEM or good aftermarket hoses sized to fit L300.
- Hose clamps
- Why: screw clamps corrode and spring clamps lose tension; replace with new stainless worm clamps or spring clamps.
- Radiator cap
- Why: seals the pressurized system; old caps fail to hold pressure causing boil-over/loss.
- What to get: correct pressure-rated radiator cap for Delica (check spec).
- Thermostat (recommended)
- Why: old thermostats can stick and cause overheating or slow warm-up; cheap preventative swap when doing major cooling work.
- What to get: OEM or equivalent thermostat for engine code and model year.
- Fan clutch (if mechanical fan) or electric fan/relays (if electric)
- Why: if fan doesn’t engage or clutch is worn, cooling performance suffers.
- What to get: replacement clutch or fan assembly matched to your Delica.
- Transmission cooler line O-rings or replacement lines (automatic)
- Why: quick seals wear and cause ATF leaks; replace O-rings when reconnecting.
- Overflow/expansion tank or sensor
- Why: cracked tank leaks or sensors fail. Replace if damaged.

- Preparation steps (before removal)
- Verify you have the correct replacement radiator for your Delica variant (bring old radiator to parts store or confirm part number).
- Gather coolant of the correct type (manufacturer recommended or 50/50 ethylene glycol/distilled water if manual allows); do not mix incompatible chemistries.
- Place drain pan under radiator drain cock or under low point hose.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent accidental fan startup or shorts.

- Removing old radiator (step-by-step in sequence)
- Open coolant reservoir cap only when engine is cold to relieve any pressure.
- Locate and open the radiator drain petcock (usually at bottom) and drain coolant into pan; if no petcock, loosen lower radiator hose clamp and pull hose off to drain.
- Remove plastic grille, fan shroud and any scuttle covers that block access (use screwdriver and pliers); keep track of clips and screws in a bag.
- If mechanical fan: loosen fan clutch bolts (fan may be bolted to water pump or clutch); use a wrench to hold pulley and remove bolts. If electric fan: unplug electrical connector and unbolt fan assembly.
- Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses: compress spring clamps or remove screw clamps, twist hoses to free them. Use hose pick if hoses are stuck.
- Disconnect overflow hose to expansion tank and remove or move tank if needed.
- If automatic: place small catch pan for ATF, disconnect transmission cooler lines at radiator using flare-nut wrench or quick-disconnect; plug lines to prevent contamination.
- Unbolt radiator mounting brackets at top and possibly bottom; lift radiator straight up out of car. Take care to clear any AC condenser or intercooler if present.

- Inspect components while old radiator is out
- Check fan, fan clutch, fan shroud, and water pump for play/leaks.
- Check hoses for soft/brittle spots; replace if any signs of deterioration.
- Inspect condenser and intercooler fins for blockage; clean gently.
- Check transmission lines for leaks and replace O-rings if needed.

- Installing the new radiator
- Transfer any fittings/sensors from old radiator to new one (with cloth over openings to keep clean).
- Position new radiator into mounts carefully, align lower and upper mounts, and bolt in place; use torque wrench for critical bolts if available.
- Reconnect transmission cooler lines (automatic), using new O-rings and tighten with appropriate wrench.
- Reattach lower and upper hoses with new clamps.
- Reinstall fan and shroud; reconnect electric fan wiring if applicable.
- Reinstall overflow tank hose and fasten any removed trim pieces.

- Refilling and bleeding the cooling system
- Reattach radiator cap loosely or use a vacuum fill tool for best results.
- Fill radiator slowly with 50/50 coolant mixture (or specified coolant) until full; fill overflow tank to the proper mark.
- Start engine with heater set to hot and fan on low; let idle and watch coolant level as thermostat opens (temperature gauge will rise). Add coolant as air bleeds out.
- Squeeze upper and lower hoses gently to help dislodge trapped air; continue topping up until air bubbles stop.
- Once stable and no more air emerges and temperature is normal, tighten radiator cap.
- Test drive at low speed for 10–15 minutes, recheck level and inspect for leaks.

- Leak check and final steps
- With engine warm, inspect all hose connections, transmission cooler fittings, and radiator seams closely for drips.
- Check undercarriage for leaks and monitor coolant level the next few days; top up as needed.
- Dispose of old coolant properly at a recycling center or auto shop; never pour into drains or onto ground.

- Common troubleshooting after replacement
- Overheating: check for trapped air, stuck thermostat, failed fan, or clogged radiator.
- Persistent leak: tighten clamp, replace clamp, or re-seat hose; check for damaged radiator petcock or seam leak.
- Transmission fluid leak (automatic): tighten line fittings or replace O-rings.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting (bring to parts store the old parts for exact matches)
- New radiator (correct fit for Delica L300 and engine/transmission type)
- Upper and lower radiator hoses (optional but recommended)
- Hose clamps (new set)
- Radiator cap (recommended)
- Thermostat and gasket (recommended)
- Coolant (correct type/amount)
- O-rings for transmission cooler lines (if automatic)
- Small pack of zip-lock bags/labels to keep fasteners organized when removing parts

- Final safety and maintenance notes
- Never open a hot radiator cap.
- Keep used antifreeze away from animals and dispose of it responsibly.
- Replacing hoses and thermostat while you’re doing the radiator is preventive and inexpensive compared to repeating the job.
- If you’re unsure about automatic transmission lines or the fan clutch removal, get help or consult a repair manual or local mechanic.

- If you want a compact tool-buying tip
- If you have only very basic tools, at minimum get a metric socket set, slip-joint pliers, flat/Phillips screwdrivers, a large drain pan, and a funnel; add a hose pick and hose clamp pliers to make hose removal much easier and safer for plastic fittings.

No further questions.
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