What you need to know and do to diagnose, remove, test, and replace the crankshaft position sensor (CKP/CPS) on a Mitsubishi Delica L300 — explained for a beginner mechanic, with components, theory, what goes wrong, and a step-by-step repair procedure. No filler.

Overview / Why this repair is needed
- The crankshaft position sensor tells the engine computer (ECM) the crankshaft’s angular position and speed. The ECM uses that signal to time fuel injection and ignition. If the CKP fails or its signal is intermittent, the engine can:
- Refuse to start (cranks but no spark/injection),
- Stall while running,
- Run rough, misfire, or have poor fuel economy,
- Illuminate the check engine light and store codes (often P0335 / CKP circuit).
- Analogy: the CKP is like a metronome for an orchestra. If it skips beats or stops, the orchestra (engine) can’t play in time.

Main components (what each part is and what it does)
1. Crankshaft position sensor (CKP)
- Types: inductive (magnetic/coil, usually 2-wire) or Hall-effect (3-wire: reference, ground, signal).
- Function: senses teeth or a reluctor on the crank/flywheel and produces an electrical signal indicating each tooth (position and speed).
- Physical parts: sensor body, sensing tip, mounting hole/bolt, connector, sometimes an O-ring or copper washer for sealing.

2. Reluctor ring / tone wheel / flywheel toothed edge
- Attached to the crankshaft or flywheel/flexplate; has teeth or notches. Passing teeth change the magnetic field or trigger the Hall element, creating the signal.

3. Wiring harness and connector
- Carries the sensor signal and reference power (if Hall). Vulnerable to corrosion, heat damage, chafing.

4. Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Receives the CKP signal and uses it to control ignition timing and injector pulse timing.

5. Mounting hardware and seals
- Bolt(s) that fix the sensor position; seals (O-ring) prevent oil leaks around the sensor in engines where the sensor sits in the timing cover or housing.

Where the CKP is on a Delica L300 (general guidance)
- Location varies with engine type and market. Two common placements:
- Near the front crank pulley/timing cover (sensor sits in the timing cover and reads a toothed wheel on the crank).
- At the bellhousing/transmission area, reading a reluctor on the flywheel (common on diesel 4D56 variants).
- You must visually locate it: follow the wiring harness from the cam/crank area or look for a small sensor bolted into the block/timing cover or bellhousing.

Symptoms of CKP failure or poor signal
- No-start (cranks but no start),
- Intermittent stalls,
- Misfires, rough idle,
- ECU fault codes (P0335, P0336, related crank sensor codes),
- Irregular tachometer reading or erratic tach.

Diagnostics — step-by-step (start simple, escalate)
1. Visual inspection
- Check connector for corrosion, bent pins, dirt, or water intrusion.
- Inspect wiring for chafe, heat damage, broken wires.
- Check sensor mounting area for oil/metal shavings or physical damage.

2. Scan for codes
- Read DTCs with a scanner. Note crank-related codes and freeze-frame data.

3. Wiggle test (quick check)
- With the key on (engine off) or while cranking (safe), gently wiggle the harness at the connector and observe live data or engine behavior — if it drops in and out, wiring/connector likely.

4. Basic electrical tests
- Inductive sensor (2-wire): measure resistance across the two pins (service manual gives spec). While cranking, measure AC voltage — an inductive sensor generates AC pulses (values depend on speed; typically some tenths to a few volts AC).
- Hall sensor (3-wire): check reference voltage (usually ~5V) between reference pin and ground with key on, check ground continuity, and measure signal pin while cranking — signal should switch between ~0V and ~5V (square wave). If you don’t have a scope, a multimeter may show toggling or average voltage change while cranking.
- Note: exact resistance/volt specs differ by engine — consult a repair manual for precise numbers. If you lack that, presence/absence of signal and gross values are useful.

5. Mechanical inspection
- Check reluctor teeth for damage or missing teeth. Check gap between sensor tip and reluctor — too large a gap can cause weak/no signal; too small can cause mechanical contact.

Common failure modes
- Sensor failure from heat, corrosion, or internal short/open.
- Wiring harness damage (chafing, rodent chew, connector corrosion).
- Contamination: metal shavings, oil sludge, or ferrous debris on sensor tip.
- Reluctor damage: missing or bent teeth, loose reluctor on crank/flywheel.
- Wrong sensor/gap or incorrect installation (alignment, torque).
- ECM input circuit fault (less common, but possible).

Tools & materials you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, 8–14 mm sockets, extensions, combination wrenches.
- Screwdrivers, pick for releasing connector clips.
- Penetrating oil (if sensor stuck).
- Multimeter (DC and AC), or ideally an oscilloscope for waveform.
- Jack and stands (if sensor under car) and wheel chocks.
- Replacement CKP sensor (correct part number for your engine), new O-ring/seal if required.
- Contact cleaner/electrical cleaner, rag.
- Torque wrench (recommended).
- Anti-seize (small amount on bolt threads if specified).

Step-by-step removal and replacement (typical procedure)
Note: I give a general safe procedure. Exact details (torques, resistance specs, exact location) vary by engine; use factory manual where possible.

1. Safety first
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, use wheel chocks.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid shorts and accidental starts.
- If sensor is under car, raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands.

2. Locate the CKP sensor
- Trace wiring from engine harness or find sensor bolted into timing cover or bellhousing. Clean area (blow/brush dirt away) so debris doesn’t fall into engine when you remove sensor.

3. Disconnect electrical connector
- Release the locking tab and pull connector straight off. Inspect pins. Clean with electrical cleaner if corroded.

4. Remove mounting bolt(s)
- Remove the bolt(s) securing the sensor. Keep items organized. If bolt is seized, soak with penetrating oil briefly.

5. Remove sensor
- Pull sensor straight out. Some sensors have an O-ring or sit tight; twist gently if stuck. Beware of metal shavings or fluid. Inspect sensor tip for damage or heavy contamination.

6. Inspect mating parts
- Check reluctor/flywheel teeth, sensor mounting bore for debris. Clean with rag and electrical cleaner. Check gap if you can measure — compare with spec from manual.

7. Install new sensor
- If the sensor uses an O-ring, lightly oil it to aid installation. Insert sensor fully and seat it. Reinstall mounting bolt. Torque bolt to spec; if spec unknown, snug to moderate torque (~8–12 Nm / 6–9 ft-lb is common for small sensors) — do not overtighten.

8. Reconnect connector
- Ensure pins are straight and fully seated. Secure any harness clips.

9. Reconnect battery and test
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Clear codes with OBD scanner (or disconnect battery for a short time, though that’s less ideal).
- Crank engine and observe: should start if CKP was the fault. Check live data on scanner for crank signal. Verify no new codes.

10. Final checks
- Confirm there’s no oil leak at the sensor mounting area.
- Road test and re-scan for pending codes.

Helpful measurement hints (practical)
- Inductive (2-wire): during cranking you should see an AC voltage waveform. If zero, sensor may be open or broken. A very low AC or intermittent suggests weak sensor or gap issue.
- Hall (3-wire): with key on you should see reference voltage (often ~5V). While cranking you should see the signal toggle between near 0V and near reference. No toggle = wiring/ECM/sensor problem.
- If uncertain, swapping with a known-good sensor or bench-testing a new sensor is often quicker than guessing.

Tips, traps, and best practices
- Clean first. Dirt or metal shavings on the sensor tip can kill the signal.
- Don’t pry on sensor body — you can damage sensing element.
- Replace the connector or use dielectric grease if pins show minor corrosion.
- If the new sensor shows no signal, check for reference voltage and ground at the connector first — if they’re missing, problem may be upstream (fuse, wiring, ECM).
- If sensor is in the bellhousing area, removing starter or using a transmission jack may be needed on some engines — plan accordingly.
- Always use the correct, OEM-type sensor if possible. Cheap aftermarket sensors sometimes fail prematurely.

What can go wrong during the repair
- Damaging the new sensor by over-torquing or dropping it.
- Breaking connector clips and creating loose connections.
- Not addressing a bad reluctor or damaged teeth; replacing sensor alone won’t fix it.
- Failing to check wiring/ECM leads to repeated failures.
- Improper gap/installation causing weak/incorrect signal.

Final checklist before finishing
- Connector clean and secure.
- Bolt torqued to reasonable spec, sensor seated correctly.
- No fluid leaks.
- Codes cleared and engine runs normally.
- Test drive and re-check codes.

Quick reference troubleshooting flow
1. Symptoms (no-start/stall) → read codes.
2. Visual: wiring/connector corrosion? Fix that first.
3. Test: reference voltage/ground at connector (Hall) or sensor resistance (inductive).
4. Signal test while cranking (multimeter or scope).
5. Replace sensor if no signal or out-of-spec.
6. If new sensor still no signal, trace wiring and check ECM input.

That’s the full practical guide. Follow safe lifting procedures, consult a factory service manual for engine-specific specs (resistance values, torque specs, sensor gap), and replace only with the correct part number for your Delica L300 engine.
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