Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet sets, breaker bar, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pry bars.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack + adapter; engine support if needed.
- Car lift or quality jack stands and wheel chocks.
- Flywheel holding tool/locking pin or a pry bar and someone to help (use only approved holding tool).
- Torque wrench (in Nm and ft·lb ranges appropriate for spec).
- Flywheel bolts (new—use OEM or specified grade; many are single‑use/stretch).
- Clutch alignment tool.
- Pilot bearing puller/installer, seal driver set.
- Dial indicator for runout measurement.
- Vernier caliper or micrometer for thickness.
- Straight edge and feeler gauges.
- Flywheel resurfacer options:
- Off‑car lathe (preferred) with appropriate face cutter and cutting inserts.
- Portable on‑car flywheel grinder or flywheel resurfacing machine (diamond wheel/grinding wheel) if lathe not available.
- Cleaning solvent, lint‑free rags, threadlocker (if specified), anti‑seize (where specified), replacement rear main seal (optional).
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, respirator for machining dust.

Safety precautions (non‑negotiable)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Block wheels; secure vehicle on stands or lift—never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Support the transmission with a jack; don’t let it hang off the engine on the mounts.
- Follow machine shop safety for lathe/grinder: guards on, use coolant when required, avoid loose clothing.
- Avoid breathing machining dust—use local exhaust or respirator.
- Replace flywheel bolts if they are torque‑to‑yield or show any stretch/ damage.

Step‑by‑step — removal and inspection
1. Preparation
- Park level, chock rear wheels, disconnect battery.
- Remove any splash shields, driveshaft/prop shaft, and access panels as required.
2. Transmission removal
- Remove starter motor (easier with starter out).
- Support transmission with jack, remove transmission mount and bellhousing bolts, slide transmission back to access clutch assembly.
3. Clutch removal
- Loosen pressure plate bolts gradually in a star pattern and remove the assembly. Keep an eye on the clutch disc for orientation/ wear.
4. Flywheel removal
- Use flywheel holding tool to prevent crank rotation. Remove flywheel bolts in a star pattern.
- Inspect flywheel for cracks, heat spots, heavy scoring, missing ring gear teeth, warpage. Clean oil/grease.
5. Measure & decide
- Measure flywheel thickness with micrometer; compare to factory minimum. Measure radial runout on mounting face with dial indicator on lathe mount or crank flange.
- If cracked, heavily scored, warped beyond tolerance, or below minimum thickness → replace. If minor glazing or light heat marks, resurfacing is possible.

Resurfacing — recommended: off‑car lathe (best practice)
6. Prepare flywheel for the lathe
- Mount flywheel on a dedicated arbor or suitable mandrel with full face support. Ensure concentric mounting.
7. Rough cut (if heavy material)
- Take light, controlled cuts. Typical approach: multiple light passes, not a single deep cut. Depth per pass depends on material and cutter—usually 0.1–0.5 mm per pass on cast iron; adjust to avoid chatter.
8. Finish cut
- Final pass should produce a clean, slightly cross‑hatch radial finish for good clutch friction. Aim for smooth face, no grooves, no heat discoloration.
- Cutter: use carbide insert face cutter designed for cast iron. Use coolant/lubrication as appropriate to avoid overheating.
9. Tolerances to meet
- Surface: no ridges, glazing, or pitting. Light concentric cross‑hatch is good.
- Runout: aim for ≤0.05 mm (0.002") total indicator reading on the friction face.
- Thickness: final thickness must be above factory minimum. Record original thickness and compare.
10. Clean & balance
- Remove all swarf and clean thoroughly. If material removed significantly or weight changed, have flywheel dynamically balanced (recommended if large cuts or aftermarket lightening).

Alternative: on‑car resurfacing (only if lathe unavailable)
- Use a dedicated on‑car flywheel grinder/resurfacer with diamond wheel.
- Procedure: secure grinder to flywheel via hub, spin with crank, apply light passes; use coolant, avoid overheating. This has higher risk of unevenness, heat damage, and limited removal amount—only for small corrections.
- If you must: remove no more than a few tenths of a millimeter, check runout and thickness afterward. Prefer off‑car machining when possible.

Reassembly & replacement parts
11. Replace single‑use bolts and bearings
- Install new flywheel bolts if original were torque‑to‑yield or show stretch; also replace pilot bearing/bushing and release bearing as part of clutch job. Consider rear main seal while transmission is out.
12. Install flywheel
- Clean crank flange and flywheel bolt holes. Dry fit, hand‑start bolts.
- Tighten bolts in a criss‑cross/star pattern to final torque in stages. Use factory torque spec—consult Mitsubishi Delica L300 service manual for exact values. If using threadlocker, use the grade specified by manufacturer.
13. Install clutch
- Use a clutch alignment tool to center the disc, bolt up pressure plate evenly in star pattern to specified torque.
14. Reinstall transmission, starter, driveshaft, re‑connect battery.
15. Final checks
- Check crankshaft endplay and runout if accessible. Start engine and check for abnormal noise or vibration. Test clutch engagement and free play.

Tool usage specifics (lathe & resurfacer)
- Lathe face cutter: mount solid carbide insert head, adjust cross slide to take light cuts. Use steady RPM and feed; avoid chatter—raise RPM if chatter occurs. Use multiple passes and a light finishing cut for a smooth finish. Clean coolant and metal swarf from flanges.
- On‑car grinder: ensure diamond wheel true and dressed. Mount the tool concentric, set depth stops so each pass removes minimal material (~0.05–0.1 mm per pass). Keep coolant flow on wheel and face. Monitor surface temperature—stop and cool if surface glows.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Removing too much material: always check minimum thickness; excessive removal can change clutch geometry and lose heat capacity.
- Overheating during machining: use coolant, take light passes, avoid blue‑tempered spots.
- Not replacing bolts: many flywheel bolts are single‑use—reusing can cause failure.
- Improper balancing: heavy material removal can unbalance the flywheel—have it balanced if significant material removed.
- Incorrect torque pattern or values: follow factory sequence and torque specs; uneven torque causes wobble/warpage.
- Contamination: grease/oil on flywheel face leads to clutch slippage—clean with solvent and ensure dry.
- Ignoring ring gear damage: damaged starter ring gear leads to starter wear; replace/repair as needed.

Replacement parts typically required
- Flywheel bolts (often replaceable only once).
- Clutch kit: disc, pressure plate, release bearing (always replace when flywheel is removed).
- Pilot bearing/bushing.
- Rear main seal (recommended inspection/replacement).
- Flywheel (replace if cracked, warped beyond spec, below minimum thickness, or ring gear damaged).

Final notes (quick)
- Preferred workflow: remove flywheel → measure → machine on a proper lathe → replace bolts and clutch components → reassemble to factory torque specs.
- Always refer to the factory service manual for the Mitsubishi Delica L300 for exact torque values, removal sequences, and minimum dimensions.

Done.
rteeqp73

Delica L300 Rear Differential Rebuild and Adjustment Adjusting and checking rear differential backlash and engagement pattern.

Offroading a JDM 4x4 in the PNW! Mitsubishi Delica L300 Star Wagon In-Depth Review Today we are taking out this 1996 Mitsubishi Delica L300 Star Wagon for an offroading adventure and review. Chapters: 00:00 ...

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