Tools & materials
- Basic hand tools: sockets (metric), breaker bar, ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches, pliers.
- Torque wrench.
- Floor jack and 2 heavy-duty jack stands (rated for vehicle weight); wheel chocks.
- Spring compressor (internal or external designed for MacPherson springs).
- Angle grinder with cutting and flap discs, 1/8–1/4" cutoff wheel.
- Spot-weld drill or carbide bit, nibblers, hammer & dolly.
- MIG welder (or TIG) with appropriate wire & shielding gas OR oxy-acetylene if no MIG (MIG preferred).
- Drill and drill bits, metal files, bench grinder.
- Sheet metal (1.2–2.0 mm steel recommended), pre-formed patch panels if available.
- Weld-through primer, zinc-rich primer, seam sealer, paint, underbody coating.
- Rust converter, degreaser, clean rags.
- Replacement fasteners (top strut nuts, washers), new strut mount/bearing assemblies, new studs or weld-in nuts / rivet nuts as required.
- Safety PPE: welding helmet, gloves (welding and mechanic), eye protection, respirator (for grinding/paint), ear protection.

Safety precautions (critical)
- Work on a level surface. Chock rear wheels. Use jack stands under rated lift points — never rely on the jack alone.
- Disconnect battery when welding or working near electrical components. Remove/cover fuel/AC lines if located near work area.
- Compress springs only with a purpose-built compressor, inspected and rated. Follow manufacturer instructions. Keep hands clear; wear eye protection.
- Use welding PPE and respirator for grinding fumes. Keep a fire extinguisher handy; remove flammable material from the work area.
- When cutting/welding around wiring, brake/ABS lines, fuel lines: remove or protect them and unclip harnesses out of the way.

What is being done
Repairing rotten/damaged strut tower metal: remove strut, cut away corroded tower metal, fabricate/weld in replacement metal or reinforcement plate, restore top mount attachment (studs/nuts) and corrosion protection, reinstall components and torque to spec, then align wheels.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation & access
- Park, chock, raise front end with floor jack, and support on two stands under subframe or pinch welds (manufacturer support points).
- Remove front wheels.
- Remove items blocking access to strut tops: battery and tray, airbox/intake, any brake-fluid reservoirs or wiring harness brackets over the towers. Delica L300 commonly has battery/airbox near strut towers—remove for clearance.
- Clean the area to expose the full strut tower top and surrounding metal.

2) Support suspension and remove strut assembly
- Support the lower control arm/hub with a secondary jack so it won't drop when bolts are removed.
- Remove sway bar endlink(s) or brake line brackets as needed to free the strut.
- Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (usually 2 large bolts). Have a helper hold the hub or use support jack to keep alignment.
- At the top, remove the strut top nuts (3) while supporting the strut from below. If nuts are seized, apply penetrating oil and use impact or breaker carefully.
- Remove the whole strut assembly from the vehicle. If you plan to reuse the mount or inspect bearings, use spring compressor and disassemble indoors on bench.

3) Assess damage & mark cut area
- Inspect the strut tower both top and underside for corrosion spread. Delica L300 often has inner and outer tower panels; rust may bridge both.
- Mark the area of rotten metal to be cut out. Cut beyond all rust to get to clean, solid metal — you must remove all compromised metal.

4) Prepare for cutting
- Remove any wiring clips, brake hoses, and anything that could be damaged. Cover nearby components.
- Use spot-weld cutter to remove factory spot welds if replacing inner panels. Use angle grinder/cut-off wheel to remove outer rusty sections. Keep cut edges even; use a piece of cardboard to mock-up patch shape.

5) Fabricate patch / reinforcement
- Cut replacement patch from 1.2–2.0 mm steel to match profile. If inner and outer panels both rotted, fabricate a reproducing inner panel or a reinforcement plate that ties into surrounding structure.
- If you can’t replicate factory double-skin, make a reinforcement plate that provides equivalent clamping area for the strut mount; weld it to surrounding solid structure. Use thicker plate (1.6–2.0 mm) for reinforcement where studs will fasten.

6) Fit & tack-weld
- Test-fit the patch. Ensure strut top stud holes align with patch. If original studs are usable, reuse; if not, plan to weld-in studs or use rivet nuts/helicoil welded nuts on the backside.
- Clamp patch, tack-weld in multiple spots to hold position. Ensure no distortion and correct alignment.

7) Welding technique
- Use short stitch welds (5–10 mm) spaced 10–15 mm apart to minimize heat warping. Allow cooling between stitches. Grind between passes if needed.
- If welding thin sheet to thin sheet, consider stitch welding and back-stepping technique. If welding to thicker flange, full welds okay.
- For spot-weld-style joints, either plug weld through small holes in patch to original flange or use continuous seam where appropriate.
- If you cannot weld to a completely intact flange, consider creating a welded-in reinforcement ring that distributes load into good metal.

8) Re-establish strut stud attachment
- If original studs are corroded through, use one of these:
- Weld-in studs (M10/M12) — tack-weld inside patch, ensure vertical alignment.
- Weld a nut on the underside (weld nut) to accept top nut.
- Install rivet nuts (nutserts) sized to match strut top nut and torque spec (use quality steel nutserts). Note: rivet nuts are acceptable if properly loaded on solid backing plate; welded solutions are strongest.
- Ensure the top mounting points are centered and perpendicular to the strut tower plane.

9) Finish metalwork & protection
- Grind welds smooth where necessary but maintain strength. Clean metal to bare steel.
- Apply weld-through primer on penetration points, then weld; afterwards treat welds with zinc-rich primer, seam sealer around seams (both inside and outside), then paint topcoat and underbody coating on underside.
- Reinstall any inner fender liners or splash shields removed.

10) Reassembly of suspension
- If you disassembled strut, replace top mount/bearing and dust boot/bumper as required. Always replace worn mount and top nut/washer.
- Reinstall strut into vehicle: raise strut into position, loosely install top nuts to hold it while aligning bottom to knuckle.
- Reinstall lower bolts, sway bar links, brake hose brackets, ABS sensor wiring. Torque all fasteners to manufacturer spec (top nut typically torqued in the range of ~45–95 Nm depending on stud size — consult manual).
- Reinstall battery, airbox, and any removed components.
- Lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec.

11) Final steps
- Check for proper seating of mount and absence of interference. Start vehicle and check for any unusual noises when turning steering lock-to-lock.
- Get a professional front-end alignment after repair (essential — towers affect geometry).
- Inspect repair after a short test drive and recheck tightness of fasteners.

Tool usage details & tips
- Spring compressor: mount symmetrically on opposite coils; tighten equally on both sides by alternating turns; never compress beyond the minimum needed to remove preload; inspect threads/locks frequently.
- MIG welder: use appropriate wire (0.8–1.0 mm) and gas (CO2 or 75/25 mix). Set amperage for thin sheet (generally lower amps to avoid burn-through). Use short stitch welds, cool between passes. If unsure, practice on scrap of similar thickness.
- Angle grinder: use new cutoff discs for clean cuts; wear respirator and eye/ear protection. File/grind burrs smooth to get good weld contact.
- Spot-weld cutter: drill or use cutter to remove factory spot welds when separating panels; be careful not to punch through to engine bay with excessive force.
- Rivet nut tool: if using nutserts, use long-handled puller that matches nut size; ensure a backing plate is used if sheetmetal is thin.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Top strut mount / bearing (recommended replace whenever you remove strut).
- Dust boot and bump stop.
- New top nuts/washers and possibly replaceable studs if corroded.
- Patch metal or reproduction tower panels, seam sealer, primer, paint.
- Possible new strut assembly if aftermarket strut damaged or if mounting hardware seized/corroded.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Leaving rust behind: cut out to solid metal — cosmetic grinding is not enough.
- Poor weld penetration or overheated metal: use stitch welds, let cool, avoid long continuous beads that warp structure.
- Reusing failed top mounting hardware/studs: replace studs/nuts/mounts if showing corrosion or deformation.
- Not reinforcing thin panels: thin factory sheet often needs backing plate to clamp properly; otherwise stud pull-through risk.
- Inadequate corrosion protection: failure to prime, seam-seal and undercoat will lead to recurrence.
- Incorrect spring compressor use: slipping compressors cause sudden release of energy — always follow tool instructions and use rated hardware.
- Not performing alignment after repair: steering and tire wear issues will follow.

Result criteria before road test
- Solid, non-wobbly strut top attachment with correct stud alignment.
- Welds that penetrate and tie patches into surrounding good metal.
- No leaks or exposed bare metal; seam sealed and painted.
- Proper torqued fasteners and functioning steering without noise.
- Professional alignment completed.

Do the repair methodically, prioritize structural integrity and corrosion prevention. After reassembly, test drive gently and recheck all fasteners and weld areas.
rteeqp73

1990 Mitsubishi Delica Star Wagon 4x4 Seat Configurations 1990 Mitsubishi Delica Star Wagon 4x4 Seat Configurations.

How to Access the Engine on a Mitsubishi Delica L300 Accessing the engine bay on a Mitsubishi L300 Delica is a bit more involved than just popping the hood. We'll walk you through ...

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