- Safety first (read and follow these before touching the vehicle)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and sturdy closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a level surface, engage parking brake, and put wheel chocks on wheels remaining on the ground.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before major drivetrain work (prevents starter clutches, electrical shorts).
- Never rely on a jack alone — always support the vehicle on rated jack stands placed at factory lift points.
- If anything feels stuck or requires excessive force, stop and reassess — using too much force can break parts or cause injury.
- Get a repair manual (Haynes, Chilton, or factory service manual) for torque specs, diagrams, and model-specific steps.

- Basic drivetrain overview (what “drivetrain” includes on a Delica L300)
- Transmission (manual or automatic) — transfers engine power into gears.
- Clutch (manual only) — engages/disengages engine to transmission.
- Driveshafts/axles (front CV axles on FWD/4WD front, rear drive shafts on RWD/4WD).
- CV joints / universal joints (U-joints) — allow axle rotation while steering/suspension moves.
- Differential/transfer case (on 4WD models) — splits power to wheels and handles gear reduction.
- Mounts and seals — hold components in place and keep fluids in.

- Tools you probably already have (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Basic socket set (metric sockets 8–24 mm, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets, extensions)
- Description: Sockets fit over nuts/bolts; ratchets allow one-handed turning; extensions reach recessed fasteners.
- How to use: Choose correct socket size snugly; pull back on the ratchet release to attach. Use extensions for deep bolts. Apply steady pressure; avoid rounding heads by using correct sizes.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Description: Open-end and box-end on each wrench for different access angles.
- How to use: Use the box end for more torque; open end for quick slip-on/off. Ensure full seating to avoid rounding bolt heads.
- Breaker bar (long non-ratcheting bar)
- Description: Long handle for extra leverage to break loose tight fasteners.
- How to use: Fit a socket on the end and push slowly and evenly. Don’t jerk; use controlled force.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 3/8" or 1/2" drive)
- Description: Measures applied torque and clicks at set value.
- How to use: Set desired torque, tighten steadily until the click. Re-check orientation and value from the manual.
- Hydraulic floor jack (rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: Lifts the vehicle so you can place jack stands.
- How to use: Position on factory lift point, pump handle to lift, never get under vehicle supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (pair, rated capacity)
- Description: Support the vehicle safely after lifting.
- How to use: Lower vehicle onto stands placed under secure lift points. Shake vehicle slightly to confirm stability.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Wedges placed behind wheels to prevent roll.
- How to use: Place on downhill side of wheels remaining on ground.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and pry bar
- Description: For trim, clamps, and light prying.
- How to use: Use correct tip size and pry bar for leverage (protect painted surfaces).
- Pliers (needle-nose, slip-joint) and locking pliers (Vise-Grips)
- Description: Grip, bend, and hold small parts; locking pliers clamp and hold firmly.
- How to use: Use needle-nose for tight spots, locking pliers to hold stubborn parts while you work.
- Hammer and rubber mallet
- Description: Light strikes to free stuck parts; rubber mallet avoids damage.
- How to use: Tap controlled; use penetrating oil first on rusted parts.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) and brake cleaner
- Description: Penetrating oil helps loosen rusted bolts; brake cleaner cleans grease.
- How to use: Spray penetrating oil, let soak; clean surfaces before reassembly with brake cleaner.
- Pry bar or large flat screwdriver for separating components
- How to use: Use leverage points; protect surfaces with wood blocks to avoid damage.
- Hammer and drift/punch set
- Description: To drive out pins or align holes.
- How to use: Use for punches or roll pins carefully; avoid striking threaded studs.

- Extra/specialty tools you may need (why they’re required and how to use)
- Impact wrench (electric or air) — speeds removal of lug nuts and stubborn bolts
- Why required: Makes removing seized bolts easier; reduces physical effort.
- How to use: Use appropriate sockets, short bursts, and avoid over-torquing reinstallation — finish with a torque wrench.
- Torque angle gauge or torque stick (for some tightening methods)
- Why required: Some bolts need a torque + angle specification.
- How to use: Follow manual steps: torque to initial value then turn specified angle.
- Transmission jack or engine hoist
- Why required: Safely supports and lowers a heavy transmission during removal.
- How to use: Center the transmission on the jack, secure with straps, lower slowly in a controlled way.
- CV axle puller / slide hammer or hub puller
- Why required: Some axles are pressed in and need a puller to remove without damage.
- How to use: Attach to hub/axle and use controlled pulls; follow puller instructions.
- Snap ring pliers
- Why required: To remove/install snap rings in CVs or differentials.
- How to use: Compress/expand ring evenly, slowly release when seating ring.
- Bearing race/seal driver or socket set (various sizes)
- Why required: To install seals and bearings without damage.
- How to use: Drive seals squarely using correct diameter driver to avoid warping.
- Hydraulic press (or shop with one)
- Why required: To press bearings on/off shafts during differential or wheel bearing replacement.
- How to use: Press slowly, support parts squarely, use proper adapters.
- Clutch alignment tool (for manual transmission clutch replacement)
- Why required: Aligns disc to pilot bearing for correct reinstallation of the transmission.
- How to use: Insert tool through clutch disc and pressure plate, center on pilot bearing before torquing bolts.
- Dial indicator (for endplay/shaft runout checks)
- Why required: To check bearing endplay and backlash when rebuilding differentials/transmissions.
- How to use: Mount on a rigid base and measure movement per manual spec.

- Basic diagnostic checks for drivetrain problems (how to inspect, what tools to use)
- Visual inspection of boots and seals
- Tools: flashlight, mirror, gloves.
- What to look for: Torn CV boots, leaking seals at transmission/diff, grease flinging.
- Why: Torn boots allow contamination, destroying CV joints quickly.
- Check for play in joints and bearings
- Tools: pry bar, wheel off and grab hub, rotate & rock hub.
- What to look for: Excessive play or grinding indicates worn wheel bearings, U-joints, or CV joints.
- Drive and listen for noises
- Tools: test drive, listening carefully for clicking on turns, humming at speed, clunks on acceleration.
- What they mean: Clicking on turns = outer CV joint. Humming = wheel bearing or differential gear wear. Clunk = U-joint, driveshaft slip yoke, or worn mount.
- Fluid checks
- Tools: fluid pan, funnel, dipstick (if equipped), rags.
- What to look for: Low fluid, burnt smell, metal particles in fluid (indicates internal wear).
- Why: Low or dirty fluid causes overheating and wear in transmission/differential.
- Shifting behavior (manual or automatic)
- Tools: driving test, feel for clutch engagement and gear selection.
- What to look for: Gear grinding, slipping, delayed engagement—may point to clutch or transmission issues.

- Common repairs you can do as a beginner (step overview + tools needed + why replacement might be required)
- Replace CV axle (outer CV joint or entire axle shaft)
- Symptoms: Loud clicking during turns, torn boot leaking grease, vibration during acceleration.
- Tools needed: basic socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench, jack & jack stands, pry bar, hammer, possibly axle puller.
- Why replace: Outer CV joint wear leads to failure and loss of drive; torn boot allows contamination.
- How (high-level): Remove wheel, remove axle nut, separate hub/knuckle, pry axle from trans/diff or pop out from hub, install new axle, torque to spec, refill any lost fluid if necessary.
- Important notes: Use correct torque on axle nut and wheel; some axles are pressed and need puller—if you feel unsure, get help.
- Replace U-joint or center support bearing (rear driveshaft)
- Symptoms: Clunking, vibration at certain speeds, visible play on U-joint.
- Tools needed: socket set, punch/drift, hammer, snap ring pliers, grease, possibly bearing press or bench vise.
- Why replace: Worn U-joints cause vibration and can fail catastrophically.
- How (high-level): Remove driveshaft, remove old U-joint retaining clips, press/drift out caps, press in new caps and clips, reinstall driveshaft and torque bolts.
- Important notes: Keep driveshaft balanced and mark orientation before removal.
- Replace wheel bearing (front hub)
- Symptoms: Humming or growling that changes with speed, play in hub.
- Tools needed: socket set, breaker bar, hammer, hub puller, bearing press or hub-to-knuckle replacement hub, torque wrench.
- Why replace: Worn bearings cause noise and can lock up, causing danger.
- How (high-level): Remove wheel and hub assembly, press out old bearing, press in new bearing or replace complete hub assembly, reassemble and torque to spec.
- Important notes: Pressing bearings typically requires a press — buy a hub assembly (complete unit) if you want to avoid press work.
- Change transmission/differential/transfer case fluids and seals
- Symptoms: Routine service, fluid contamination, leaks.
- Tools needed: fluid catch pan, funnel, ratchets, seal puller, seal driver, replacement fluid and gasket/seals.
- Why: Old fluid loses lubricating properties; seals leak causing low fluid and possible damage.
- How (high-level): Drain fluid, inspect for metal debris, replace drain/fill plug washers, replace seals if leaking, refill to correct level per manual.
- Important notes: Use specified fluid type and torque drain/fill plugs correctly.
- Replace transmission or engine mounts
- Symptoms: Excessive engine/transmission movement, clunks during acceleration or shifting.
- Tools needed: socket set, floor jack with block of wood to support engine/transmission, torque wrench.
- Why replace: Worn mounts allow movement that stresses driveline components.
- How (high-level): Support engine/transmission, remove mount bolts, replace mount, torque bolts to spec.

- Complex jobs (you can try but consider shop help or renting specialty tools)
- Clutch replacement (manual)
- Why complex: Requires removing the transmission (heavy), alignment of clutch disc, possible resurfacing or replacement of flywheel.
- Tools required: transmission jack, clutch alignment tool, torque wrench, possibly an engine support bar.
- Replacement parts commonly needed: clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing), pilot bearing, possibly flywheel resurfacing or replacement.
- Why replace parts: Slipping, worn friction material, noise, or failing release bearing.
- Safety note: If you attempt, follow service manual step-by-step and torque specs; consider a helper.
- Transmission removal / rebuild
- Why complex: Many connections, heavy assembly, precise reassembly and torque specs, specialized tools (transmission jack, alignment tools).
- Parts possibly required: seals, gaskets, bearings, synchros, input/output shafts — diagnose before replacing.
- Recommendation: For internal transmission faults, consider professional rebuild unless you have access to tools and service manual.
- Differential overhaul (ring/pinion, bearings)
- Why complex: Requires setting gear backlash and preload with precise shims, dial indicator, and torque specs.
- Tools required: dial indicator, torque wrench, bearing puller/press.
- Recommendation: If differential internals are damaged, this usually requires a machine shop or experienced mechanic.

- How to approach a repair job as a complete beginner (step sequence)
- Start with inspection and simple fixes: check fluids, boots, mounts, and do preventive services (fluids, seals).
- Tackle bolt-on parts first (axles, U-joints, mounts, seals) — these are achievable with basic tools.
- Always get the factory service manual or a quality aftermarket manual for step-by-step diagrams and torque specs.
- If a job requires a press, transmission jack, or precise measurement tools (dial indicator), rent tools or use a shop; don’t jury-rig.
- Keep organized: label bolts and parts, take photos during disassembly, and work in a clean, well-lit area.

- Replacement parts likely needed and why (common parts on a Delica L300)
- CV axle assembly or CV joint boots — torn boots lead to failed joints; replace axle if joint noisy or entire boot/axle if damaged.
- U-joints — wear causes vibration and can break; replacement is cheap and straightforward.
- Wheel bearings or hub assembly — humming/noise or play requires replacement to avoid failure.
- Transmission/differential/transfer case fluid and seals — maintenance prevents internal wear; leaking seals must be replaced.
- Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing) — if slipping, chattering, or hard shifting.
- Mounts (engine/transmission) — replace if cracked or allowing excessive movement.
- Driveshaft center support bearing — if vibration or play in the center support, replacement needed.

- Final checks and test after repairs
- Double-check all fasteners against torque specs from the manual.
- Refill fluids to exact types and levels specified.
- Test drive slowly to verify elimination of noises/vibrations, re-check for leaks and torque of wheels after a short drive.
- Re-inspect jack stands and tools, store removed parts and fluids safely and dispose of old fluids at a recycling center.

- Quick troubleshooting guide (very short)
- Clicking on turns → likely outer CV joint or torn boot.
- Humming that increases with speed → wheel bearing or differential gear wear.
- Clunk on acceleration → U-joint, driveshaft slip yoke, or worn mount.
- Gear slipping or grinding → clutch (manual) or internal transmission problem (automatic requires professional attention).

- Final note (important)
- This is practical guidance but not a substitute for the factory service manual or professional training. If you ever feel unsure or encounter heavy, risky disassembly (transmission/differential removal, pressing bearings), stop and get professional help or rent proper tools.
rteeqp73

SOLD : Mitsubishi Delica L300, 1990, AT turbo diesel 4D56 RHD -JDM Directly import from Japan Auction USS. Mitsubishi Delica, L300. Star Wagon 1990year. 4X4, Automatic transmission.

Delica L300 Flipped Lift Support Hack How to get ore height out of your Delica Tailgate by flipping the lift supports.

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