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Mitsubishi Delica L300 factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; work in a well-ventilated, flat area with the parking brake on.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be unplugging sensors for more than a minute or doing anything near fuel lines.
- Use jack stands if you must raise the vehicle; never rely on a jack alone.

- What the MAP sensor does (short)
- Measures manifold absolute pressure (vacuum/boost) and sends a voltage signal to the ECU so it can set fuel and timing.
- It is usually a 3‑wire sensor (5 V reference, ground, signal) or on some old vehicles a 2‑wire unit that changes resistance.

- Tools you need (bullets include exact usage)
- Digital multimeter (DMM)
- Use to measure DC voltage, continuity, and sensor resistance. Set to DC volts (20 V range typical) to read sensor output. Black lead to chassis ground, red lead to the wire you're testing (backprobe).
- Handheld vacuum pump with gauge (0–30 inHg / 0–100 kPa)
- Use to apply controlled vacuum to the MAP sensor while watching the DMM; a slow, steady vacuum shows whether the sensor output changes proportionally.
- Basic socket/ratchet set (metric sizes 8–14 mm commonly)
- Use to remove sensor mounting bolts and any brackets. Choose a socket that fits snugly to avoid rounding heads.
- Small flat and Phillips screwdrivers
- Use to release electrical connector clips and pry off vacuum hoses gently.
- Needle‑nose pliers
- Use to remove hose clamps or hold small components.
- Contact/electronics cleaner (safe for sensors) and lint‑free rags
- Use to clean connector pins and the outside of the sensor; do not spray forbidden solvents into the sensor’s sensing port.
- Dielectric grease (optional)
- Use a tiny amount on connector pins to prevent corrosion when reconnecting.
- Flashlight or inspection light
- Use to see into engine bay and behind the intake manifold area.
- Replacement MAP sensor (model-specific) — why/when required
- Required if the sensor fails testing (no output, no change with vacuum, erratic signal) or if it is physically damaged. Order the correct part by vehicle VIN/year/engine; aftermarket compatible MAP sensors are available — typical cost range –0 depending on origin and part number.
- Replacement vacuum hose and connector (if cracked)
- MAP sensors often use a small vacuum nipple and hose; if the hose is brittle or cracked it must be replaced (cheap and essential, ~–).
- OBD‑II scanner with live data (recommended, not required)
- Use to read MAP sensor values live and read/clear fault codes (P0105–P0109 range). Helpful to confirm repair.

- Locate the MAP sensor (general)
- Common locations: intake manifold/plenum near throttle body, on the firewall, or on the intake runner. Look for a small plastic sensor with an electrical plug and often a small vacuum hose/nipple.
- If your Delica is OBD‑II and late model, check near the throttle body/intake manifold first.

- How to inspect before testing
- Visually check wiring harness and connector for corrosion, broken wires, or loose pins.
- Inspect vacuum hose for cracks, splits, or loose clamps; replace if any damage.
- Wiggle the connector and hose while engine runs (if safe) to see if idle/engine behavior changes — intermittent behavior suggests wiring/hose issues.

- How to bench/garage test the MAP sensor (safe for a beginner)
- Prepare DMM: set to DC volts (20 V range).
- Identify wires: use a wiring diagram if available. If unknown, backprobe connector with key ON (engine OFF):
- One wire should show ~5 V (reference).
- One wire should be near 0 V (ground).
- One wire is the signal and will vary with vacuum.
- With key ON, engine OFF, read signal wire voltage. Typical behavior:
- At atmospheric pressure (no vacuum) the signal is near the high end (many sensors ~4–4.5 V).
- As you apply vacuum with the pump, the voltage should fall smoothly toward a lower value (many sensors ~1–1.5 V at high vacuum/idle).
- If voltage does not change, is stuck, or is noisy/erratic, the sensor is bad or wiring is faulty.
- Use the vacuum pump: hook to sensor nipple, slowly increase vacuum and watch DMM for a smooth, proportional voltage drop. Release vacuum and ensure voltage returns smoothly to the initial reading.

- How to test on‑vehicle while running (if you prefer)
- With engine idling, backprobe the signal wire and note voltage. Rev the engine gently — vacuum drops and signal voltage should rise toward atmospheric value. Changes should be smooth, not jumpy.
- If you have an OBD scanner, watch live MAP readings (kPa or inHg) — they should respond to throttle changes smoothly.

- Interpreting test results (when replacement is needed)
- Replace the MAP sensor if:
- Signal voltage does not change with applied vacuum.
- Signal is stuck at zero or at a fixed high voltage.
- Signal is wildly fluctuating/noisy without correlating to throttle/vacuum changes.
- Connector or sensor housing is physically damaged or contaminated internally.
- You have related ECU trouble codes (P0105–P0109 range) that confirm MAP sensor faults.
- Repair wiring/hose instead of sensor when:
- Connector pins are corroded but the sensor tests OK on bench.
- Vacuum hose is cracked — replacing the hose often fixes the problem without sensor replacement.

- How to replace the MAP sensor (general steps)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal (recommended).
- Unplug electrical connector from the sensor; depress tab and pull straight out.
- Remove mounting bolts with appropriate socket; keep bolts for reuse.
- Remove the sensor and disconnect vacuum hose nipple (replace hose if brittle).
- Fit new sensor in the same orientation, tighten bolts snugly (hand tight + small quarter turn; do not overtighten plastic).
- Reconnect vacuum hose and electrical connector. Apply a small dab of dielectric grease to connector pins.
- Reconnect battery. Clear ECU codes with OBD scanner or by key cycle (codes may take a few drive cycles to fully reset).
- Start engine and confirm smooth operation and correct live MAP readings if you have a scanner.

- Extra tips and common pitfalls
- Do not spray carb cleaner or harsh solvents into the sensor port; use electronics/contact cleaner and only on external areas.
- If you’re unsure about wire identification, take clear photos before unplugging connectors.
- Use a new vacuum hose if the old one is stiff or darkened — these fail more often than the sensor.
- Buy OEM or a high‑quality aftermarket MAP sensor that matches the exact part number for the Delica’s engine to avoid calibration differences.
- If replacing the sensor does not fix drivability, check intake leaks, throttle position sensor (TPS), and fuel trim as the ECU uses multiple inputs.

- Typical replacement parts you may need
- MAP sensor (OEM or matching aftermarket unit specific to Delica L300 engine/year).
- Small vacuum hose (inner diameter matching sensor nipple, usually 3–5 mm).
- Electrical connector/terminal kit (if pins are corroded).
- O‑ring or gasket if your sensor uses one (some do).

- Estimated costs (very approximate)
- MAP sensor: –0 depending on source and vehicle year.
- Vacuum hose: –.
- DMM: – for a decent beginner digital meter.
- Hand vacuum pump: –.
- OBD‑II scanner: –0 depending on features.

- Final check
- After repair/replacement, confirm no fault codes, the MAP reading responds to throttle/vacuum changes, and drivability/idle are normal.

No yapping.
rteeqp73

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