Quick overview and safety first
- Why this job matters: the clutch master cylinder (CMC) converts your foot push on the pedal into hydraulic pressure that moves the slave cylinder and disengages the clutch. If the CMC fails you’ll get a soft sinking pedal, inability to disengage the clutch, fluid leaks, or total loss of clutch function.
- Safety: work on level ground, chock wheels, use jack stands if you lift the vehicle, wear gloves and eye protection, avoid getting brake/clutch fluid on paint (it removes paint). Have a fire extinguisher nearby. Dispose of used fluid properly.

Difficulty and time
- Difficulty: Beginner–intermediate (requires basic hand tools, some patience for bleeding).
- Time: 1.5–4 hours depending on experience and whether the slave cylinder is easy to access.

What the system is and how it works (plain language + analogy)
- Analogy: Think of a syringe system. The master cylinder is the syringe you push with your finger (the clutch pedal). The slave cylinder is a second syringe that gets pushed by the fluid and moves the clutch fork and release bearing to disengage the clutch. The reservoir is the little fluid cup that keeps a supply of fluid available and lets the system top up as parts wear.
- Theory: When you depress the clutch pedal a pushrod inside the master cylinder pushes a piston which pressurizes brake/clutch fluid in the hydraulic line. Pressure transmits through an incompressible fluid to the slave cylinder; its piston moves and pushes the clutch fork/throw-out bearing to separate the engine flywheel from the transmission pressure plate so you can change gears. Fluid returns when you release the pedal and springs return the pedal and piston.

Main components — detailed descriptions
- Clutch pedal: foot lever inside car. Pivoted on a shaft; pedal has clevis or pin for pushrod attachment and a return spring.
- Pushrod / clevis / snap pin: metal rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder piston. Clevis is adjustable in some cars; secured with a retaining pin/snap clip.
- Master cylinder body: metal housing mounted to the firewall. Inside are one or two pistons and seals. The piston(s) compress fluid.
- Reservoir: plastic cup on top (integral or separate). Holds fluid and contains a rubber diaphragm under the cap to accommodate fluid level changes and prevent contamination.
- Reservoir cap: usually vented/diaphragm style; sometimes has a level sensor.
- Hydraulic line / hard line and flexible hose: metal (steel) hard line from firewall to flexible rubber hose that connects to slave or to the engine bay. Use flare-nut wrench on flare fittings to avoid rounding.
- Banjo bolt and copper crush washers (if used): bolt that attaches hose to the master (or slave). Two copper washers seal the connection.
- Slave cylinder: cylinder on the transmission that receives pressure and pushes on the clutch fork or acts as a concentric slave bearing. Has a bleeder valve and a dust boot.
- Bleeder valve (on slave): a small screw valve used to release trapped air.
- Clutch fork and throw-out bearing / release bearing: fork is lever inside the bell housing; bearing presses against pressure plate fingers to disengage clutch.
- Bellhousing: cover between engine and transmission; houses clutch components.
- Seals and O-rings: internal to master/slave to contain fluid and hold pressure. Their failure causes internal leaks.

Common failure modes (what can go wrong and symptoms)
- Internal seal failure (inside master): pedal slowly sinks to the floor under constant pressure; fluid may not leak externally. This is an internal bypass—pressure won’t build.
- External leak (master, hose, or slave): visible fluid under car or wetness at connections; low reservoir level; soft pedal.
- Worn reservoir cap diaphragm or dirty fluid: allows air in, contamination, or sticking pistons.
- Air in system: spongy or inconsistent pedal; clutch not fully disengaging.
- Stuck/slack pedal pivot or pushrod misadjusted: inconsistent pedal travel or engagement point off.
- Corroded hydraulic line or fittings: leaks or line failure.
- Damaged threads/banjo bolt or missing crush washers: leaks after replacement.

Parts and tools you’ll need
- Replacement clutch master cylinder (ensure it matches Mitsubishi Delica L300 spec; some are aftermarket).
- New sealing washers (copper crush washers) or new flare fittings as required.
- Clutch fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 — check the cap or manual; DOT 4 is generally OK if specified). Don’t mix with anything else.
- Hand tools: socket set, combination wrenches.
- Flare-nut wrench (10–14 mm depending on fittings).
- Screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers.
- Bench-bleed kit or small hose and a bolt with holes (supplied with many new masters).
- Catch bottle, clean tubing for bleeding, gloves, rags.
- Torque wrench (recommended).
- Jack and jack stands (if access to slave/bleeder requires lifting).
- Vacuum bleeder or one-person pressure/hand bleeding kit (optional but helpful).

Step-by-step replacement (general; follow exact service manual for torque/specs)

1) Preparation
- Park, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- Open hood, locate master cylinder on driver’s side firewall. Note reservoir type (integral or remote).
- Clean area around cap before opening to avoid contamination.
- Put on gloves/eye protection. Get a catch bottle and rag ready.

2) Remove old fluid / protect paint
- Use turkey-baster or syringe to remove most fluid from reservoir to limit spills. Don’t squeeze into painted areas; brake fluid damages paint.
- Leave cap off or remove diaphragm to avoid vacuum.

3) Disconnect pushrod from pedal
- Inside cabin, locate the clevis/pushrod connection at the pedal. Remove the retaining clip and pin that holds the pushrod to the pedal. Support the master cylinder so it won’t drop when you remove bolts.

4) Remove hydraulic line
- Back in engine bay, put a catch bottle under the fitting. Use a flare-nut wrench on the hard line fitting or remove the banjo bolt (replace copper washers if used). Loosen carefully and expect fluid loss. Plug feed lines with a clean rag to keep contaminants out.

5) Unbolt and remove master cylinder
- Remove the mounting bolts that hold the master cylinder to the firewall. Slide it forward and down and remove from engine bay.
- Inspect the clevis and pushrod for wear or bent parts.

6) Prepare new master (bench-bleed)
- Before installing, bench-bleed the new master cylinder. Secure it in a vise or hold steady. Install the bench-bleed kit hoses from the output ports back into the reservoir so fluid cycles internally.
- Fill reservoir with fresh DOT-specified fluid.
- Using a screwdriver or piece of wood against the piston, slowly depress the piston repeatedly until no bubbles appear in the returned fluid in the reservoir. This removes air from the master cylinder — essential step. If the new master came with a plastic plug in output ports remove it only after bench bleeding.
- Do not allow the reservoir to run dry while bench bleeding.

7) Install new master cylinder
- Position the master on the firewall and hand-start mounting bolts. Tighten to manufacturer torque if known (snug securely; do not overtighten plastic reservoir connections).
- Reconnect the pushrod/clevis to the pedal. Adjust the clevis so pedal free play is as specified (if adjustable). Secure pin & clip.
- Install hydraulic line. If it’s a banjo bolt, use new copper crush washers (one on each side of banjo fitting) and tighten to spec. If you disconnected a flare fitting, snug it with flare-nut wrench. Avoid twisting flexible hoses excessively.

8) Initial fill & check
- Top reservoir with fresh fluid to the “MAX” mark.
- Ensure all hose connections are tight and there are no leaks.

9) Bleed the system (air must be removed from entire line & slave cylinder)
Two common methods:

A — Two-person bleed (manual)
- Person A sits in the car and slowly depresses the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it down.
- Person B opens the slave cylinder bleeder valve (about 1/4 turn) to let fluid & air out into a clear tube into a catch bottle. Close the bleeder while the pedal is still depressed. Person A then releases the pedal slowly.
- Repeat: press pedal, hold, open bleeder, close, release. Keep reservoir topped up so it doesn’t run dry.
- Continue until no air bubbles come out and pedal feel becomes firm. Expect many cycles if there was significant air.

B — Vacuum or pressure bleeder (one-person, faster)
- Attach vacuum bleeder to bleeder nipple or use a pressure bleeder on the reservoir (follow device instructions).
- Pump or pressurize and open bleeder; let fluid and air escape until clear, bubble-free fluid flows. Keep reservoir topped.

- Final checks: ensure bleeder valve is tightened (don’t over-torque), wipe off spilled fluid, check all connections for leaks, verify pedal firmness and correct free play (consult manual for spec).

10) Test drive & final inspection
- With engine off, depress pedal several times to confirm firm feel and correct engagement point.
- Start engine and test clutch engagement at low speed in a safe area. Check shifting through gears smoothly.
- Re-check fluid level and top if needed after the initial few uses.
- Inspect for leaks again after a short test drive.

Important “don’ts” and pitfalls
- Don’t let the reservoir run dry — this reintroduces air and forces you to start bleeding over.
- Don’t reuse copper crush washers; always replace them or you risk leaks.
- Don’t overtighten fittings or banjo bolts — you can strip threads or crack components.
- Don’t use the wrong fluid (use what the manual specifies — DOT 3/4). Mixing with non-compatible fluids can swell seals.
- Don’t skip bench-bleeding: a master full of air means the pedal will be useless.
- Don’t forget to properly secure pushrod and retaining clip — pedal detachment can cause sudden loss of clutch control.
- Don’t dispose of fluid down drains or on ground — take it to recycling facility.

Troubleshooting after installation
- Soft/spongy pedal after bleeding: likely still air trapped — re-bleed, check for leaks or a faulty slave cylinder.
- Pedal sinks slowly under steady pressure: possible internal master cylinder leak (bad seals) or a leak in the line.
- Sudden fluid loss: external leak at a fitting, hose, or slave — find and replace/repair.
- Clutch won’t disengage fully even with firm pedal: possible misadjusted pushrod, wrong master cylinder bore, or slave/stuck fork; check linkage and components.

Final notes
- Always compare the replacement part to the old one to make sure pushrod length, mounting bolt spacing, and port locations match.
- If the slave cylinder is old or shows signs of leakage/corrosion, replace it at the same time — it saves bleeding time and prevents repeat jobs.
- If in doubt or if threads/ports look damaged, consult a factory service manual for the Mitsubishi Delica L300 or get professional help.

You have everything you need now to replace the clutch master cylinder: know the parts, understand the hydraulic principle, follow the safety and bench-bleed steps, and bleed the system thoroughly. Good luck — take your time and keep the fluid clean.
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WATCH THIS BEFORE BUYING A MITSUBISHI DELICA! (L300 & L400) DELICA #MITSUBISHI #4X4VAN Hopefully this video helps you guys with your Delica purchase. More Delica content coming your ...

Mitsubishi Delica L300 4D56 Engine Run Parting out a Mitsubishi Delica L300 with a 4D56 Turbo Diesel engine swap.

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