Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, extensions, 10–19 mm socket set, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (0–150 Nm).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil).
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive).
- Oxygen (O2) sensor socket or 22 mm deep/socket with cutout.
- Reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade or exhaust pipe cutter / angle grinder with cutoff wheel (if flanges/welds seized).
- Exhaust hanger removal tool or large pliers/pry bar.
- Floor jack + rated jack stands or vehicle lift.
- Small hydraulic jack or second floor jack to support exhaust assembly.
- Wire brush / flap wheel and gasket scraper.
- Anti-seize compound (sensor-safe).
- New gaskets, bolts/nuts/studs or flange clamp kit (see parts).
- Replacement catalytic converter (correct part for Mitsubishi Delica L300 OEM or approved aftermarket).
- Replacement O2 sensor(s) if corroded/damaged.
- Welding equipment (MIG) only if fitting requires welding; exhaust clamps are an alternative.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, respirator if cutting, long sleeves.
- Fire extinguisher nearby.

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat level surface. Engage parking brake and chock wheels.
- Engine and exhaust must be cold. Hot metals cause severe burns.
- Use rated jack stands under manufacturer jack points; never rely on the jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing O2 sensors/electrical work.
- Wear eye/hand protection. Use a respirator when cutting rusted metal.
- Have a fire extinguisher available if using heat or cutting tools.
- Be aware of fuel/lines routing—avoid sparks near fuel vapors.
- Follow local laws for catalytic converter disposal/registration.

Replacement parts typically required
- Correct catalytic converter assembly for Delica L300 (verify year/engine).
- Exhaust flange gaskets (manifold-to-pipe and cat-to-pipe).
- New bolts/nuts/studs or flange clamp kit (stubborn studs should be replaced).
- New exhaust band clamps if used.
- New O2 sensor(s) if old units are seized, damaged, or within service intervals.
- Rubber hanger(s) if cracked.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, cool engine. Disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle using jack and place on jack stands at factory points. Ensure stable.
- Use a second jack under the converter (or pipe) to support weight when removing hangers.

2) Inspect & plan removal
- Locate the catalytic converter: typically between the exhaust manifold/downpipe and the muffler assembly.
- Identify attachments: flanged connections, welded joints, O2 sensor(s), heat shields, rubber hangers.

3) Remove heat shields and O2 sensor(s)
- Spray penetrating oil on all bolts, studs, and nuts; let soak 10–15 minutes (repeat if heavily corroded).
- Remove heat shield bolts with appropriate socket/wrench.
- Disconnect and remove O2 sensor(s) using O2 sensor socket. Turn counterclockwise; if seized, use penetrating oil and breaker bar on sensor socket. Label connectors if needed.
- Apply a small dab of anti-seize (sensor-safe) to new sensor threads before installation—do not contaminate the sensor tip.

4) Detach hangers and support exhaust
- Use exhaust hanger tool or pliers to slide rubber hangers off mount pins. Support converter with jack so it does not drop and twist the rest of the exhaust.

5) Separate flanges or cut pipe
- If flanged: remove nuts/bolts at both ends. Use breaker bar; if nuts/studs are seized, an impact wrench helps. If studs spin in manifold, use vise grips and cut the stud; extract with stud extractor or drill if necessary.
- If welded or flange is rusted through: cut the pipe carefully with a recip saw or angle grinder to provide clearance to remove the converter. Cut between welds to leave usable pipe ends if possible.

How tools are used:
- Penetrating oil: spray on threads, let penetrate; repeat until loosening.
- Breaker bar: apply steady force to break rusted bolts; keep extensions and leverage in-line.
- Impact wrench: short bursts to avoid rounding nuts; confirm socket fit.
- Recip saw / cutoff wheel: steady slow cuts; keep guard and eye protection on; avoid cutting nearby wiring or fuel lines.
- O2 sensor socket: fits over sensor hex and wiring; turn counterclockwise to loosen; use breaker bar if needed.
- Exhaust hanger tool: hooks and pulls rubber hoses off studs with leverage instead of damaging hangers.

6) Remove catalytic converter
- Once all connections are free and hangers removed, lower the jack slowly and remove the converter from under the vehicle. Note orientation for new part.

7) Prepare mating surfaces
- Clean flange faces and pipe ends with wire brush. Remove all old gasket material. Check for warped flanges; if badly distorted, replace flange or use repair sleeve.
- If you cut pipe to remove converter, measure and cut new pipe or converter inlet for best fit. Use clamp or prepare for welding.

8) Install new catalytic converter
- Position new converter in place, support with jack.
- Install new gaskets at flanged joints. Use new bolts/nuts or clamp kit.
- Hand-thread all fasteners first to align. Tighten progressively to seat gasket.
- Torque bolts to factory spec if known. Typical exhaust flange torque: small M8 bolts ~20–30 Nm (15–22 ft-lb), M10 bolts ~40–60 Nm (30–45 ft-lb). If unsure, tighten evenly until gasket compresses and no leaks—do not over-torque thin flange bolts; use new hardware.
- If welding: tack weld first, check alignment, then complete welds. Grind smooth and allow cooling.

9) Reinstall O2 sensor(s)
- Install O2 sensor(s) into converter bung(s). Use anti-seize on threads sparingly (avoid sensor tip). Tighten to hand snug plus ~1/4 turn or to ~30–40 Nm if spec available. Reconnect electrical connectors.

10) Reattach heat shields and hangers
- Reinstall any heat shields, replace damaged hanger rubbers, and ensure exhaust has correct hang/camber and at least 10–15 mm clearance from body panels.

11) Lower vehicle & test
- Lower vehicle off stands carefully. Reconnect negative battery.
- Start engine, listen for leaks or rattles. Check for exhaust leaks at flanges and sensor bungs (use soapy water spray on cold start to spot leaks or feel for escaping air carefully when safe).
- Clear any old fault codes with scanner. If CEL returns for O2 sensor/catalyst efficiency, re-check sensor operation and wiring.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Seized studs/nuts: soak with penetrating oil for hours; use heat (careful) or cut and replace studs. Always plan to replace damaged studs/hardware.
- Damaging O2 sensors: use correct socket and disconnect battery before removal. Heat/impact can strip threads—don’t force.
- Improper gasket/hardware reuse: always use new flange gaskets and appropriate nuts/bolts; reused gaskets commonly leak.
- Wrong converter fitment: buy exact fit for Delica L300 engine/market or confirm measurements—wrong length/pipe diameters cause alignment issues and backpressure problems.
- Welding thin exhaust tubing poorly: incomplete welds cause leaks; ensure competent welder or use properly sized clamps/adapters.
- Forgetting heat shields/hangers: causes vibration, rattles, or heat damage to body.
- Over-tightening thin bolts: strip threads or warp flanges. Torque to spec or snug evenly.
- Legal issues: replacing catalytic converters may be subject to emissions regulations—ensure replacement conforms to local laws and salvage/old-cat disposal rules.

Disposal & notes
- Old catalytic converters contain precious metals and are potentially regulated waste. Dispose per local regulations or sell to licensed recyclers. Keep receipts if required by law.
- If you’re not confident in cutting/welding or if the converter is integral to the downpipe/manifold, use a professional shop or exhaust specialist.

Finish check
- After 100–200 km check for leaks, re-torque bolts if necessary, scan for stored codes, and confirm normal engine performance and no excessive backpressure symptoms.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

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