Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric hand tool set (sockets 8–24 mm, extensions, swivel, 1/2" & 3/8" drive).
- Torque wrench (range to 200 Nm).
- Breaker bar, impact wrench (for removal only).
- Engine hoist & stand (strongly recommended if removing crankshaft).
- Harmonic balancer / pulley puller.
- Flywheel holding tool / locking pin or prybar + second person.
- Socket for crankshaft pulley bolt (big, usually 24–32 mm).
- Main cap bolt extractor / thread chaser.
- Soft-faced mallet.
- Pry bars.
- Oil pan & timing cover gasket scrapers.
- Seal driver / large socket set for seals.
- Plastigauge (for bearing clearance).
- Micrometer (0.01 mm) and dial bore gauge OR outside micrometer and V-block for journal measurement.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for endplay / runout).
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent, assembly lube.
- Engine oil, oil filter, new oil pan gasket, RTV.
- Replacement parts: main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, front & rear crank seals, main cap bolts (if torque-to-yield or damaged), timing belt/chain & tensioner (recommended), oil pump gasket (recommended).
- Service manual with torque specs and sequences.

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Use engine hoist & rated stands when lifting or supporting engine. Never work under an engine only supported by a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- Cleanliness: bearings and journals tolerate no dirt. Work in as clean an area as possible.
- Mark parts and orientation during disassembly. Take photos.
- Use torque wrench for final torques; never rely on impact for final tightening.

Overview of procedure
You’re removing the crankshaft, inspecting/machining as needed, then reinstalling. Best practice: remove engine from vehicle and mount on engine stand.

Step-by-step (engine out recommended)
1) Preparation
- Drain engine oil & coolant.
- Remove the battery and any obstructing components (airbox, intake, radiator if needed).
- Tag and disconnect wiring harness, fuel lines, vacuum lines, and sensors that impede engine removal.
- Remove accessories (alternator, A/C compressor—leave lines attached if possible—or unbolt and set aside).
- Remove timing cover, timing belt/chain components, and harmonic balancer (use puller). Mark timing relationship before removal.

2) Engine removal (if doing engine-out)
- Unbolt engine mounts and transmission bellhousing bolts (or separate trans if needed).
- Use engine hoist to lift the engine/trans assembly clear. Support on stand.

3) Preparation for bottom-end work
- Remove oil pan. Remove oil pickup and screen. Inspect for metal debris.
- Remove oil pump if needed (recommended to replace gasket and inspect).
- Remove timing cover completely and, if applicable, remove balance shafts or timing components that block front of crank.

4) Access pistons & rods
- Remove cylinder head(s) if necessary (if you’re doing a full bottom-end job, remove heads). Note: On the 4D56 diesel you will likely remove cylinder head(s) to free pistons and rods.
- Rotate engine to bring #1 piston to top dead center and note orientation.
- Remove rod caps: mark each cap and cap-to-rod orientation and keep rod bearings together. Keep a strict parts bin for each cylinder.

5) Remove main caps
- Remove main bearing cap bolts in the reverse order of torque sequence, loosen evenly. Keep caps in order and same orientation (cap number stamped).
- Carefully lift main caps off (they may be tight). Use soft mallet if needed. Keep thrust bearing pieces together.

6) Withdraw crankshaft
- With all caps and bearings removed, carefully lift the crankshaft off the block. It’s heavy—use two people or hoist.
- Place crankshaft on padded surface or engine stand bed suitable for measurements.

Inspection & measurement
7) Visual inspection
- Check journals for scoring, discoloration, pitting. Check oil holes for blockage.
- Inspect thrust surfaces for excessive wear.

8) Measure journals & runout
- Use micrometer to measure main and rod journals diameter (three places around each journal). Compare to OEM spec in service manual.
- Use dial indicator on V-block or mount crank in V-blocks and check runout across journals.
- Check bearing clearance using plastigauge during mock-up: place plastigauge strip on journal, install bearing cap lightly tightened to torque spec, then remove and measure flattened width against plastigauge chart.
- Check crankshaft endplay with dial indicator mounted on block before removing bearing caps (if you didn’t remove crank yet) or after reinstalling caps during mock-up.

Decision point: repair or replace
- If journals are scored beyond allowable limits or oval/taper exceeds spec, crankshaft must be reground to undersize or replaced. Grinding requires machine shop.
- Replace main and rod bearings whenever crank is removed. Replace thrust washers/seals as required. If main cap bolts are torque-to-yield (stretch bolts) replace them.

Reassembly (key points)
9) Prepare block & parts
- Clean oil passages thoroughly. Scrape and clean mating surfaces.
- Inspect and, if required, have block deck checked for alignment.
- Fit new bearings into block & caps. Ensure correct orientation of bearing tangs and oil holes.

10) Install crankshaft
- Coat journals with assembly lube. Carefully position crank into block.
- Fit main caps in sequence: start with center mains and work outwards (follow service manual sequence). Hand-tighten bolts first.
- Torque main cap bolts in prescribed incremental steps and sequence to specified torque in manual. Use torque wrench; do not use impact for final torque.
- If using new bolts, follow any stretch/angle procedure per manual.

11) Check clearance & endplay
- Use plastigauge on a selected journal to verify bearing clearance. If out of spec, determine if undersize bearings or crank grinding needed.
- Install thrust washers and check crank endplay with dial indicator. Adjust as required.

12) Reassemble bottom end
- Install connecting rod bearings and caps, torque to spec, check side clearances.
- Reinstall oil pump, pickup, gaskets. Prime pump with oil.
- Install oil pan gasket and pan.
- Install front and rear crank seals using proper driver. Replace rear main seal when removing crank.
- Reinstall timing components (replace timing belt/chain/tensioner while accessible).
- Refit harmonic balancer and torque crank pulley bolt to spec.
- Reinstall heads, ancillaries, transmission, etc., using new gaskets and proper torques.

13) Final checks
- Rotate engine by hand 2–3 revolutions and re-check torque on main and rod bolts per spec.
- Check for interference, binding, abnormal resistance.
- Refill oil and coolant. Prime oil system (crank with fuel & ignition disabled until oil pressure builds or use manual priming).
- Start engine and monitor oil pressure, leaks, and unusual noises. Re-torque critical fasteners if recommended after initial run-in.

How key tools are used (brief)
- Torque wrench: use for final tightening to exact Nm. Tighten in increments per spec, follow sequence.
- Plastigauge: lay a small strip on journal, install and torque cap to spec, remove cap and measure flattened width against chart to obtain clearance.
- Harmonic balancer puller: thread bolts into balancer and drive center screw to pull balancer straight off crank snout.
- Dial indicator: mount magnetic base on solid portion of engine block; place tip on crank flange or thrust surface to measure endplay or runout while rotating.
- Micrometer/dial bore gauge: measure journal diameters and bore sizes for clearances. Three readings around journal to check taper.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not replacing bearings and seals: always replace bearings, thrust washers and crank seals whenever crank is removed.
- Reusing stretched bolts: if bolts are torque-to-yield or show deformation, replace.
- Improper torque sequence: always follow manufacturer sequence; improper torquing leads to warpage and bearing failure.
- Contamination: dirt or metal debris in oil passages or bearings causes rapid failure—clean thoroughly and wipe parts before assembly.
- Timing alignment: mark and re-time correctly; incorrect timing raises risk of valve/piston contact in interference engines.
- Not checking oil pump and passages: blocked passages or weak pump equals starvation.
- Incorrect bearing orientation/installation: bearings have oil hole alignment and tangs; wrong install causes no oil supply to journal.
- Forgoing measurement: guessing clearances without plastigauge/micrometer invites premature failure.
- Over-reliance on impact gun: use impact only for removal; final torque must be with torque wrench.

Replacement parts typically required
- Main bearings and rod bearings (sizes as required).
- Thrust washers.
- Front & rear crank seals.
- Main cap bolts (if specified or damaged).
- Timing belt/chain & tensioner (recommended while open).
- Oil pump gasket and possibly pump.
- Oil pan gasket, oil filter, engine oil.

Final notes
- Keep a factory service manual for the Delica L300 / 4D56 engine for exact torque specs, sequences, journal sizes, and clearances — those specifics must be followed.
- If crank journals are damaged beyond spec, take crank to a reputable machine shop for grinding and matching undersize bearings, or source a good used or new crankshaft.

Done.
rteeqp73

Mitsubishi L300 fully restoratione Ep1 Episode 1 Rust reparing .....

1991 Mitsubishi Delica L300 Exceed T-Diesel Test Drive https://www.jdmcarandmotorcycle.com/details/used-1991-mitsubishi-delica-l300/72924209.

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