Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: metric socket & wrench set (including deep sockets), breaker bar, ratchet, extension bars, screwdriver set, pliers.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm) and angle gauge (if bolts are torque-to-yield).
- Engine hoist (cherry picker) and engine stand or strong workbench; transmission jack if doing engine-out with trans attached.
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley puller and installer.
- Flywheel / flexplate holding tool (or impact gun).
- Pry bars, rubber mallet, seal puller, gasket scraper.
- Dial indicator (for crank endplay), micrometer (0.01 mm resolution) or outside mic, and straight edge.
- Plastigauge (for bearing clearance measurement).
- Cleaning solvents, rags, engine assembly lube, new engine oil, oil filter, coolant.
- New main bearings, thrust bearings, crankshaft front & rear oil seals, main cap bolts (replace if specified as single‑use/stretch), crankshaft if damaged, full engine gasket set and any necessary bolts.
- Service manual for Mitsubishi Delica L300 (engine-specific torque specs, clearances, sequences).

Safety precautions
- Work on flat solid ground. Use rated jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Disconnect battery before starting.
- Support engine/transmission properly before unbolting mounts. Follow engine hoist safe-lifting practices.
- Keep fluids drained (engine oil, coolant, fuel lines if necessary) to avoid spills. Dispose of fluids per local regulations.
- Keep fasteners and components labelled and organized (photo/mark orientation).

Procedure — overview (remove, disassemble, inspect/machine, reassemble, install)

A. Preparation and removal from vehicle (recommended)
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Drain engine oil and coolant. Remove air intake and battery for access.
3. Label and disconnect wiring harness, vacuum lines, fuel lines (relieve pressure first), and coolant hoses from cylinder head and block area to be worked on. Cap lines to prevent contamination.
4. Remove accessories: alternator, A/C compressor (unbolt and move aside without disconnecting hoses if possible), power steering pump, belts, and intake/exhaust components blocking access.
5. Remove front timing cover and loosen timing belt/chain per engine type. For timing belt: mark belt and sprockets for reassembly, remove belt, and remove camshaft sprockets if needed. For diesel 4D56, follow chain procedure.
6. Support transmission with jack, unbolt engine mounts and bellhousing-to-engine bolts. Use engine hoist to lift engine out of vehicle with transmission still attached if preferred; or separate engine from trans and lift engine alone onto stand.

B. Strip engine on bench
7. Mount engine on stand. Remove valve cover, timing components, intake manifold, exhaust manifold as needed to clear front and rear of block.
8. Remove oil pan and pickup. Inspect for debris.
9. Remove main bearing caps in correct sequence (usually from outside in or reverse of tightening order). Keep caps in their original orientation and order — mark them clearly (cap #1, orientation arrow toward timing end).
10. Remove crankshaft: first remove flywheel/flexplate (hold with tool), then harmonic balancer with puller. Lift crank out carefully.

C. Inspection & measuring
11. Clean crank journals and block bearing saddles thoroughly with solvent. Inspect for scores, heat discoloration or cracks.
12. Measure crankshaft journals with micrometer at several positions (0°, 90°, 180°) to detect taper and out-of-round. Compare to service limits in manual.
13. Measure main and rod bearing housing bores and compare to journal size to calculate clearance. Use plastigauge for final bearing clearance check during mock-up.
14. Check crank endplay with dial indicator using thrust bearing surfaces on reassembly trial. Compare to spec.
15. If journals are out of spec (worn/grooved/tapered), crankshaft must be reground to undersize or replaced. Also replace main & rod bearings to match undersize. If main caps or bores are damaged, machine work may be required.

D. Machining (if required)
16. If crank is reground, confirm exact undersize and order matching bearings. Check block/alignment and line bore if needed. Use qualified machine shop for grinding, polishing, and crack check (magnaflux) on crank.

E. Reassembly — bearings, crank, endplay
17. Clean block bores and bearing caps; oil them lightly. Install new main bearings into block and caps (match oil holes and locating tabs). Do not reuse old bearings.
18. With assembly lube on journals, set crank back into block gently. Install main caps hand-tight in the correct orientation/sequence.
19. Torque main cap bolts to the service manual sequence and values. If bolts are torque-to-yield (single-use), install new bolts and follow angle/tightening procedure exactly. Common pitfall: reusing stretch bolts — don’t.
20. Check bearing clearance with plastigauge if required: place plastigauge across journal, install cap and torque to spec, remove cap, read width vs scale, discard plastigauge and clean surfaces. Clearance must be within spec. If out of range, correct with different bearing size or machining.
21. Check crankshaft endplay with a dial indicator: push crank forward/back against thrust bearing and measure; adjust thrust bearing thickness if necessary.
22. Fit new crank seals (front and rear) using proper seal installer to avoid lip damage. Fit pilot/bearing in flywheel if applicable.

F. Final assembly and timing
23. Reinstall harmonic balancer (use installer tool), torque crank pulley bolt to spec. Replace bolt if necessary.
24. Reinstall flywheel/flexplate and torque bolts to spec (use thread locker where specified). Replace pilot bearing if worn.
25. Reinstall timing components: cam sprockets, timing belt/chain, tensioners. Set timing marks correctly. Replace water pump/tensioner if old. Common pitfall: incorrect timing alignment — verify twice before rotating engine.
26. Reinstall oil pump and pick-up if removed; prime oil system by pre-lubing bearings with assembly lube and cranking with starter (without ignition) to build oil pressure — or manually crank with bypassed fuel/ignition following safe procedures. Check oil pressure.

G. Engine installation & commissioning
27. Reinstall engine/transmission into vehicle if removed. Reconnect mounts, linkages, wiring, hoses, and fuel lines. Refill oil and coolant. Replace oil filter.
28. Reconnect battery. Start engine; run at idle and monitor for unusual noises, leaks, oil pressure, and check for correct timing. Re-torque flywheel and main fasteners if required after initial run (follow manual).
29. After initial warm-up and short road test, change oil and filter again to remove machining debris.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing old bearings or main cap bolts that are torque-to-yield — always replace as specified.
- Mixing up main caps or installing caps in wrong orientation — mark and keep in sequence. Caps must seat as originally machined.
- Not measuring clearances — always measure journals, bearing clearances, and crank endplay; don’t guess.
- Damaging crank seal lips during install — use a proper driver and press squarely.
- Incorrect torque sequence or values — use factory sequence and torque wrench; angle-torque where required.
- Not cleaning thoroughly — debris causes rapid bearing failure.
- Reusing old timing belt/tensioners — replace on reassembly to avoid immediate failure.
- Failing to prime oil system before first start — will cause dry start bearing damage.

Replacement parts typically required
- Main bearings, thrust bearing, rod bearings (all new).
- Main cap bolts if specified single-use.
- Front and rear crankshaft oil seals.
- Timing belt/chain, tensioners, water pump (recommended while servicing).
- Oil filter, oil, coolant.
- Crankshaft only if journals are beyond grind limits or cracked (machine shop confirmation required).

How key tools are used (concise)
- Engine hoist/stand: lift and hold the engine safely for removal and bench work.
- Harmonic balancer puller/installer: used to remove/install crank pulley without damaging journal. Thread into balancer and pull straight; press back on with installer to avoid seal/cushion damage.
- Plastigauge: place a strip across the journal, fit cap torqued to spec, remove cap; the flattened width corresponds to clearance via gauge chart.
- Micrometer/dial indicator: micrometer measures journal diameters; dial indicator measures crank endplay by mounting on block and pushing crank forward/back.
- Torque wrench & angle gauge: tighten bolts to specified torque; angle gauge for additional rotation on torque-to-yield bolts.

Follow-up notes (non‑negotiable)
- Always verify all torque values and clearances in the Delica L300 factory service manual for the specific engine variant (petrol 4G54 vs diesel 4D56).
- If unsure about machining limits or bearing selection, consult or use a reputable machine shop.

End.
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