Tools & equipment
- Four-wheel alignment machine (CCD/laser/alignment rack) with turn plates and steering wheel lock — preferred. If unavailable: toe plates or string kit + camber gauge and caster gauge.
- Wheel clamp adapters / sensors and extension arms (for the alignment machine).
- Floor jack and quality jack stands or a 2-post/4-post lift.
- Torque wrench and appropriate sockets/sizes.
- Wrenches/sockets for tie rods, control arms, strut bolts, subframe bolts.
- Pry bar and ball-joint separator / puller.
- Hammer, breaker bar, penetrating oil.
- Tape measure, chalk or marker for rudimentary checks.
- Tire pressure gauge.
- Wire brush / impact gun (optional but speeds work).
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves.

Safety precautions (must do)
- Park on level surface or use an alignment lift. Chock rear wheels if working only on front.
- Set parking brake. Put transmission in park (or in gear for manual).
- If jacking: support vehicle with rated jack stands — never rely only on a jack.
- Work at normal ride height for final measurements (suspension loaded with vehicle weight). If using turn plates, ensure they are rated and placed correctly.
- Keep hands/feet clear of suspension when moving steering or rocking wheels.
- Use proper torque values from the factory service manual when re-tightening fasteners.

Preparation / pre-alignment inspection (do not skip)
1. Tires: check tread condition and even wear. Replace tires with abnormal wear or mismatched sizes.
2. Tire pressures: set to manufacturer spec; uneven pressure changes alignment readings.
3. Suspension & steering inspection:
- Check tie rod ends, rack boots, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar links for play or torn boots. Replace any worn components first.
- Check struts/shocks for leaks or weak rebound. Replace if worn.
- Check wheel bearings for play.
- Check subframe & steering rack mounts for secure bolts and no damage.
4. Ride height: measure and correct if vehicle is sagging or has aftermarket springs — ride height affects camber/caster.
5. If any suspension parts are replaced (tie rods, control arms, struts), torque to spec and retighten after settling if required by manual.

General alignment theory (brief)
- Toe: front-to-back angle of wheels; most important for tire wear and steering stability. Usually adjusted via tie rods. Adjust last.
- Camber: tilt of the wheel top in/out. Adjustable via strut top eccentrics, cam bolts, or adjustable upper/lower arms.
- Caster: forward/back tilt of steering axis; affects straight-line stability and steering return. Adjustable via control arm position or caster shims on some vehicles.
- Steering wheel must be centered and neutral before final toe adjustment.

Step‑by‑step alignment procedure (use alignment machine when possible)
1. Mount sensors / clamps:
- With vehicle on lift or flat bay and wheels on turn plates, attach alignment heads to each wheel per machine instructions. Ensure clamps contact the wheel rim securely and sensors are level.
- Enter vehicle data into the alignment machine (wheelbase, track width, wheel size, steering type). If unsure, use factory values from the service manual or the machine’s database.

2. Zero / calibrate:
- Follow the machine’s startup procedure: zero sensors, rotate steering lock-to-lock if required, center steering on machine prompts.
- If using a string/toe plate method, set strings at hub height and zero using rear wheels as reference.

3. Read initial values:
- Record factory target specs from the machine or repair manual. Compare measured values: camber, caster, toe (per wheel and total toe), thrust angle/steering axis inclination (SAI) if displayed.
- Note any values significantly out of spec — these indicate parts to fix before adjusting.

4. Correct worn parts first:
- Replace any components that show play on inspection. Alignments done with worn parts will not hold and will produce incorrect measurements.

5. Camber & caster adjustments:
- Identify adjustment method on your Nissan model:
- Some models use eccentric bolts at the strut mounting to the knuckle or adjustable upper control arm bolts.
- Others may need control arm repositioning or aftermarket adjustable arms.
- Loosen the appropriate fasteners only slightly so the arm/strut can move.
- Use the alignment machine’s live readout for camber and caster; adjust incrementally and torque bolts to factory spec when target reached.
- If caster is out and not adjustable on stock parts, use caster shims or replace with adjustable arms or offset bushings as required.

6. Set steering wheel center / thrust angle:
- With front wheels pointed straight and steering wheel centered, check thrust angle and steering wheel position on the machine.
- If thrust angle is off and camber/caster are within spec, adjust toe of rear or front toe until thrust angle is corrected.
- If steering wheel is off-center but alignment readings are correct, correct this by adjusting toe evenly on both front wheels (not by adjusting steering wheel on column).

7. Toe adjustment (final):
- Toe is adjusted at the tie rods. Break the tie‑rod lock nuts loose.
- With machine showing live toe values, turn the tie rod (inner or outer depending on setup) equally on both sides to move toe in or out. One full turn is a measurable amount — use machine live readout to reach exact spec.
- Aim for total toe or toe per wheel per the factory spec. Adjust small amounts and re-check until within tolerance.
- Once correct, hold inner or outer tie rod and torque tie-rod lock nuts to factory spec.

8. Recheck all:
- Re-check camber, caster, toe, and thrust angle after torquing all fasteners.
- Cycle the steering from lock to lock and re-center; re-check toe after cycling. Some vehicles need re-check because bushings settle.
- If the alignment machine supports it, do a dynamic / road force check or do a short road test (safe area): accelerate, brake, and steer to confirm straight-line tracking and steering wheel centering. Recheck alignment after road test.

9. Final torque & paperwork:
- Torque all adjustable fasteners to factory specs.
- Record final alignment printout and hand it to the customer (or keep in service file).

How the alignment tool is used (quick operational notes)
- Wheel clamps/sensors: clamp evenly on rim; sensors measure wheel angle relative to machine base and each other.
- Turn plates: front wheels sit on turn plates so wheels can pivot freely while machine reads toe changes.
- Live data: alignment head displays numerical camber/caster/toe and graphical feedback; adjust components while watching live values to reach target.
- Zero/clear: after mounting sensors, perform calibration and zeroing routine on the machine to establish baseline.
- Steering angle sensor: some vehicles have steering angle modules — ensure steering angle sensor is centered/reset if applicable.

Replacement parts commonly required before alignment
- Inner/outer tie rod ends (if play detected).
- Ball joints.
- Control arm bushings or entire control arms.
- Struts or shocks if worn or leaking.
- Sway bar end links and bushings.
- Steering rack bushings or rack if excessive play.
- Wheel bearings if play or noise.
- Camber/caster adjustment bolts or aftermarket adjustable arms if stock cannot achieve spec.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Trying to align with worn parts: inspection and replacement first — do not adjust around failing components.
- Not correcting ride height: incorrect ride height gives false camber/caster readings — fix springs before aligning.
- Steering wheel not centered before toe adjustment: center the wheel first or you’ll end up with an off-center steering wheel.
- Over-tightening/under-torquing adjustment bolts: always use factory torque specs — recheck after road test.
- Ignoring tire condition and pressure: incorrect pressure changes readings and causes premature wear.
- Making big adjustments without rechecking other angles: toe changes can affect thrust angle; camber/caster changes can affect toe — follow order (camber/caster then toe).
- Using a cheap clamp or mis-mounted sensor: sensors must be square and secure; mis-mounted sensors give false readings.
- Not using turn plates or allowing wheel to bind: wheel bind produces inaccurate toe/caster behavior.
- Working with cold tires or extreme ambient temps: small differences occur; aim for normal operating conditions and tyre pressure.
- Forgetting to re-align after replacing steering/suspension parts or after accident repair.

Notes specific to Nissan YD22DDTi applications
- Many Nissan pickups/SUVs with the YD22DDTi engine (Navara/Pathfinder range) use MacPherson front struts and tie‑rod toe adjustments. Camber/caster are typically adjusted at strut eccentrics or control arm cams — consult the specific model’s service manual for exact locations and torque specs.
- If factory adjustment range is insufficient (often after aftermarket lift or heavy load), adjustable control arms or camber/caster kits are commonly required.

Final checklist before returning vehicle
- Tires inflated to spec and in good condition.
- All fasteners torqued to factory specs.
- Steering wheel centered and secured.
- Alignment printout within manufacturer tolerances.
- Road test done and values rechecked.

Follow the vehicle’s factory service manual for exact specifications and torque values; use the alignment machine database for targeted numbers for the specific model/year of the Nissan.
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