- Verify your engine has pushrods before starting
- Many D22 Navara/Frontier/Hardbody engines are DOHC (no pushrods). Identify your exact engine code (sticker on engine bay, owner’s manual, engine block casting). If your engine is OHV or older diesel with an in-block cam, it will have pushrods under the rocker cover; if DOHC, there are no pushrods and this procedure does not apply.

- Safety first
- Safety goggles: protect eyes from oil/debris.
- Mechanic gloves: protect hands and improve grip.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid accidental cranking or electrical shorts.
- Wheel chocks, jack and jack stands or ramps: secure vehicle if you must work under it. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Fire extinguisher nearby and good ventilation if working in a garage.

- Tools you will need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Metric socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Use to remove valve/rocker cover bolts, intake parts, battery hold-down, etc. Extensions let you reach recessed bolts.
- Torque wrench (drive size matching sockets; preferably 3/8" or 1/2")
- Required for reassembly to tighten bolts to factory torque; over- or under-torquing causes leaks or damage. Set to spec from factory manual and tighten bolts in correct sequence.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- For bolts/nuts in tight spots where a ratchet won’t fit; use box end to avoid rounding bolts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For hose clamps, electrical connectors, prying small covers. Use correct size to avoid stripping heads.
- Pliers (needle nose and regular)
- For removing clips, pulling hoses, holding small parts.
- Magnetic pickup and small parts tray
- To retrieve fallen nuts/bolts and keep parts organized.
- Clean shop rags and degreaser
- Wipe oil, clean gasket surfaces before reassembly.
- Drain pan
- Catch oil or coolant if you remove anything that leaks.
- Feeler gauge or dial indicator (only if instructed by factory procedure)
- For measuring valve lash on mechanical lifters. Hydraulic lifters do not use lash adjustments.
- Breaker bar or 19–24 mm socket for crank pulley (for turning engine by hand)
- Safely rotate the engine to the correct cylinder position (see steps below) without cranking.
- Straightedge or a flat surface (table) to check pushrod straightness
- Roll pushrods on a flat surface to detect bends.
- New valve cover gasket and gasket scraper (recommended)
- Valve cover gasket will likely need replacement after removal; old gasket often leaks. Scraper removes old gasket material.
- Replacement pushrods and/or lifters (see parts section)
- If inspection finds bent or worn parts.
- Service manual or engine-specific torque/sequence sheet (strongly recommended)
- Contains torque values, bolt sequences, and engine rotation diagrams specific to your engine — required for correct reassembly.

- Optional but highly recommended tools (and why)
- Torque-angle gauge
- If the factory uses torque+angle tightening for some bolts.
- Valve spring compressor (if you must remove valves or springs)
- Required only if you need to remove valve springs or replace valves/lifters from the top — otherwise not needed for pushrod replacement.
- Engine support or hoist (only for extensive disassembly)
- Not usually needed for pushrods but required if removing heavy components that support the engine.
- Impact driver or impact wrench
- Speeds removal but don’t use for final torqueing; risk of over-torquing.

- Preparatory steps (short)
- Park on level ground, apply parking brake, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Remove engine covers, airbox, battery, or other components blocking access to the valve/rocker cover.
- Clean area around valve cover to prevent debris falling into engine when cover is removed.

- How to access the pushrods
- Remove valve/rocker cover
- Use sockets/wrenches to remove bolts in a criss-cross pattern if present; keep bolts in order and clean gasket surface with scraper and rags.
- Remove the valve cover and set aside; inspect gasket — replace if damaged or old.
- Identify rocker arms and pushrods (pushrods are long slender rods running from the lifters at the cam to the rocker arms)
- Note the layout and take photos for reassembly reference.

- Inspecting pushrods and related parts (how to do it)
- Visual inspection
- Check each pushrod for visible wear, pitting on ends, heavy oil sludge, or bent appearance.
- Straightness check
- Place each pushrod on a perfectly flat surface and roll it; a bent pushrod will wobble. Also rotate between fingers to feel run-out.
- End surface inspection
- Look for mushrooming, pitting or scoring on ends — indicates contacting a bad lifter/rocker.
- Inspect rocker arms and lifters
- Rocker tips and lifter faces should be smooth. Excess wear on these often requires replacing the mating parts, not just pushrods.

- Removing pushrods (procedure)
- Rotate engine to a position where the cylinder you’re working on is on the base circle so the rocker spring pressure is off (refer to service manual)
- Use breaker bar on crank pulley; do not crank with starter.
- If the engine has adjustable rockers: loosen the rocker nuts or remove rocker fasteners to free the pushrods.
- Lift out each pushrod by hand; use magnetic pickup if tight. Keep pushrods in order and orientation (label them) if reusing — some wear patterns are specific to their position.
- If a pushrod is stuck, apply penetrating oil around the rocker pocket and gently pry; avoid bending.

- Replacing pushrods and other parts (when required and why)
- Replace pushrods if any of the following are true:
- Bent (wobbles on flat surface)
- Ends are mushroomed, pitted, scored or worn
- Significant wear where it seats in the lifter or rocker arm
- Replace hydraulic lifters if:
- Lifters are noisy, collapsed, or have pitted faces. Bad lifters often ruin new pushrods quickly; replace lifters in the affected bank or the entire set if budget allows.
- Replace rocker arms if:
- Rocker tips or mating surfaces are worn, cracked or excessively grooved.
- Always replace valve cover gasket when removing the cover to ensure a reliable oil seal.
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket parts matched to your engine code. Buy pushrod sets sold for your engine; do not substitute lengths. If buying used parts, avoid used pushrods unless verified straight and undamaged.

- Installing pushrods (step-by-step)
- Clean everything: wipe oil passages, rocker pockets, and pushrod ends. Ensure lifter tops are clean and well-oiled.
- Place pushrods into their respective lifter cups straight; make sure they seat fully at both ends.
- Refit rocker arms and fasteners loosely so everything can move into position.
- If you have adjustable rockers (mechanical lifters): set valve lash to the factory specification using a feeler gauge — adjust at the cam base circle (rotate engine as needed) and tighten the locknut to spec with torque wrench.
- If you have hydraulic lifters: tighten rocker arm nuts to the specified torque with the engine at the correct position (usually with the valve fully closed) — consult service manual. Do not over-tighten; hydraulic lifters self-adjust.
- Re-torque rocker/valve cover bolts to factory specifications and in the correct sequence.

- Reassembly and final checks
- Install new valve cover gasket and re-seat valve cover; torque bolts to spec in recommended pattern.
- Reinstall any removed components (airbox, battery, covers).
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Start engine and listen for abnormal lifter or valvetrain noise for 3–5 minutes.
- Check for oil leaks around valve cover and for oil pressure. If noisy, shut down and re-check lash/torques and oil level.
- If you replaced lifters or removed oil passages, consider an oil and filter change to remove debris.

- Common problems and what they mean
- Persistent ticking after replacement
- Could be bent pushrod missed, collapsed lifter, incorrect adjustment, or rocker wear.
- Oil leaks from valve cover area
- Likely a bad or mis-seated gasket or incorrect torque sequence.
- Rapid re-wear after replacement
- Indicates lifter or rocker surface problem; replace the mating parts.

- Parts to buy (minimum recommended)
- Pushrod set specific to engine code (buy full set if multiple are worn)
- Valve cover gasket (always replace)
- Lifters (hydraulic) if any show wear or if older/high-mileage — buy matched set as recommended
- Rocker arms if worn or damaged
- Engine oil and filter (recommended if lifters were replaced or if contamination occurred)

- When to call a professional
- If the engine is DOHC (no pushrods) — stop and consult a specialist.
- If you discover severe wear to cam lobes, lifters, or rocker assemblies — professional diagnosis and machine shop work may be needed.
- If you lack a torque wrench or service manual — critical specs are required to avoid engine damage.

- Final notes
- Always follow engine-specific torque values and adjustment procedures from the factory service manual.
- Replacing pushrods is straightforward mechanically but requires correct adjustment/torque and inspection of lifters/rockers to avoid repeat failures.
- If you don’t have a torque wrench and service manual, get them before proceeding — they are required tools for safe, reliable work.
rteeqp73

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