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Nissan Navara D21 1986-97 factory workshop and repair manual download

Summary (what the cable does)
- The shift (selector) cable is a push‑pull flexible linkage between the cabin shifter and the transmission’s shift/selector lever. The inner core transmits movement; the outer sheath provides a fixed reaction point and holds end fittings/bushes. Correct gear selection requires the cable length, routing and end‑bushings to put the transmission lever in the exact detent positions the shifter expects. Wear, stretch, frayed core, corroded ends, collapsed sheath or worn bushings cause slack, binding, missed gears or inability to select gears.

Ordered procedure with theory (concise)

1) Diagnose and confirm cable fault
- What to do: With engine off, move the shifter through gates while watching the transmission lever (underbody) and feeling for free play, slop, stiffness or incomplete travel. Inspect rubber boots, grommets and clip points.
- Theory: If the cabin motion does not produce corresponding movement at the trans lever (or if there is excessive play before the lever moves) the cable, its ends/bushes or routing is the cause rather than internal gearbox linkage.

2) Safety and preparation
- What to do: Park on level ground, chock wheels, handbrake on, engine off. Raise and support vehicle if needed to access the gearbox end. Remove center console/trim to expose shifter cable end.
- Theory: Safe, stable vehicle and full access let you accurately align and observe both ends for correct neutral/gear positions.

3) Establish reference positions (neutral alignment)
- What to do: Put shifter in neutral and place transmission shift lever in neutral (manually rotate lever if needed). Mark positions on cable, sheath or bracket (tape/marker) so you can reproduce the same relative alignment when fitting the new cable.
- Theory: The cable’s effective length and alignment must be set with both ends in neutral. Marking prevents offset installation that would make the shifter and transmission detents misalign.

4) Free both ends and relieve cable tension
- What to do: At the shifter side remove retaining pin/clip from the cable end and free the ball/socket or U‑link; at the transmission remove clip/clevis pin or retaining bracket and slacken the adjuster/locknut. Remove any retaining clips along the chassis and pull cable through firewall grommet.
- Theory: Releasing both ends removes preload so the cable can be withdrawn without bending or damaging ends. Removing clips lets you inspect and replace worn bushings/grommets that cause play.

5) Remove and inspect components
- What to do: Withdraw the cable, inspect sheath for kinks, inner core for fraying/rail corrosion, and inspect all clips, bushings and grommets. Replace all worn rubber boots, grommets, and retaining clips.
- Theory: Failure is often not just the core but also worn end bushings and collapsed sheath that allow lateral movement or extra travel; replacing these restores geometry and low friction.

6) Fit new cable along original routing
- What to do: Feed the new cable through the firewall and secure routing clips but do not fully tighten end fittings. Make sure the sheath seats into grommets and boots are in place. Avoid sharp bends or contact with hot/exhaust components.
- Theory: Routing and sheath seating provide the fixed reference for inner core movement. Sharp bends or heat contact increase friction and accelerate wear.

7) Pre‑align and connect ends with neutral set
- What to do: With both shifter and trans lever set to neutral using your marks, clip the cable ends into the shifter and transmission retainers. Use the adjuster (if fitted) to take up slack until the marks line up again, then secure the adjuster locknut.
- Theory: Installing with both ends in neutral ensures the cable length exactly matches the geometry so each detent of the shifter corresponds to the correct gearbox detent across the travel.

8) Adjust final cable play
- What to do: Adjust to specified minimal free play (or until gear engagement is positive). Typical method: tighten adjuster until slight resistance then back off to allow a small specified play (check manual if available). Tighten locknut and secure retaining clips.
- Theory: Some free play prevents preload and allows full travel in both directions. Overly tight cable prevents full travel into certain gears; overly loose gives slop and missed gears.

9) Functional checks (static then dynamic)
- What to do: With engine off, cycle the shifter through all gears and verify the transmission lever moves cleanly into each gear detent. Start engine, test gear engagement with clutch (manual) or park/drive selection (auto). Road test to verify under load.
- Theory: Visual and tactile checks confirm that shifter motion produces full, correct movement at the transmission. Road testing verifies operation under real load and that clutch/gear sync isn’t masking an internal fault.

10) Finalize and reassemble
- What to do: Secure all clips, protectors and heat shields, reinstall console trim, ensure boots/grommets are seated and nothing contacts exhausts or suspension, remove jack stands/chocks.
- Theory: Proper protection and routing prevent premature wear or reoccurrence.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing the inner core removes stretch and fraying that cause slop or binding, restoring direct push/pull action.
- A new sheath and fresh end bushings/grommets restore correct reaction points and eliminate lateral play; this realigns the mechanical geometry so each shifter position maps to the correct gearbox detent.
- Proper routing and fresh clips reduce friction and prevent the cable jamming or seizing.
- Correct neutral alignment and adjustment ensures full travel into every gear and eliminates missed or hard-to-select gears.

Notes and cautions
- Automatic transmissions: follow manufacturer procedure for park/neutral alignment and any shift‑interlock/power safety steps (some automatics require battery connected and specific selector positions during adjustment).
- Replace worn grommets/boots and any hardware rather than reusing. Poor hardware undermines the repair.
- If, after correct cable replacement and adjustment, gears still miss or internal linkage doesn’t move correctly, the fault may be internal to the transmission and requires further diagnosis.

End.
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