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Nissan Skyline R32 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety first (read before starting)
- Work on a level surface, parking brake off (unless working rear; see below), wheels chocked on the opposite end.
- Use a quality floor jack and pair of jack stands rated above the vehicle weight; never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and a dust mask when brushing off brakes (avoid inhaling brake dust).
- Keep brake fluid away from painted surfaces — it will damage paint.

- Parts you will probably need and why
- New rotors (front and/or rear as required) — replace if thickness is below minimum spec, warped, deeply scored, cracked, or corroded where pads ride. Replacing rotors with worn pads gives consistent braking and avoids rapid pad wear.
- New brake pads (recommended whenever you replace rotors) — pads bed to the rotor surface; mixing old pads with new rotors can cause uneven wear or poor braking performance.
- Caliper guide pins/slide pin boots and anti-rattle hardware — common wear items; sticky pins cause uneven pad wear and sticking calipers.
- Rotor retaining screw (if stripped/rusted) — these are often single-use or rusted solid.
- Brake fluid (if you open the hydraulic system / bleed) — replace or top-up as required; old fluid is hygroscopic and degrades.
- Optional: new caliper bolts if corroded, new parking brake components for rear if integrated, hub wheel bearings if bearing play or noise exists.
- Why replacement: rotors and pads are wear items; caliper hardware ensures proper function and safety.

- Tools required (detailed descriptions and how to use)
- Floor jack (3/4–2 ton) — used to raise the car. Place on safe jacking point under the sill/subframe. Pump handle to lift.
- Jack stands (pair) — place under designated pinch weld/jack points and lower the vehicle onto them for stable support.
- Wheel chocks — block opposite wheels so car won’t roll.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with appropriate socket (usually 19 mm for many Nissan lug nuts, but check your wheel nuts) — used to break loose lug nuts before lifting. Use body weight and steady force; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range) — required to torque wheel nuts, caliper bolts, and bracket bolts to correct specs. Set the wrench to spec, pull steadily until it clicks.
- Metric socket set (8–22 mm range), ratchet, extensions — used for caliper bolts, bracket bolts, hub bolts. Use correct size to avoid stripping heads.
- Hex/Allen or Torx bits set (common caliper pins sometimes use 6/8 mm Allen) — have both Allen and Torx bits ready; Nissan models vary.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or equivalent) — spray on rusty bolts/retaining screw to loosen them. Let soak several minutes.
- C-clamp or piston retraction tool / dedicated caliper piston tool — to compress the caliper piston when fitting new (thicker) pads. Place over outer pad and slowly tighten until piston is flush.
- Bungee cord or caliper hanger — hang caliper off the spring or suspension; do NOT let caliper hang by the brake hose.
- Hammer or rubber mallet — tap stuck rotor free after removing screws/bracket. Use controlled strikes to avoid damage.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner — clean hub mating surface and rotor faces; remove rust and debris.
- Flat screwdriver / pry bar — help remove clips or pry caliper bracket if stuck.
- Brake grease (high temperature synthetic) and anti-seize compound — grease guide pins and pad contact points; anti-seize on rotor hub mating surface to prevent future seizure.
- Small pick or needle-nose pliers — remove retaining clips or springs.
- Dial caliper or micrometer (optional but useful) — measure rotor thickness to compare to minimum spec.
- Impact wrench (optional) — makes removing lug nuts/caliper bracket bolts faster, but not required; if bolts are extremely rusty you may need stronger breaking force.

- Extra tools you might need and why
- Hub-holding tool or large pry bar — if rotor/hub assembly is extremely stuck; holding the hub prevents turning when hitting rotor screws.
- Caliper piston rewind tool (for certain rear calipers with internal screw-type adjusters) — if the handbrake mechanism integrates into the caliper and needs to be screwed back.
- Brake bleeder kit or vacuum pump — if you open the hydraulic system or need to bleed air; recommended if caliper was removed and line opened.
- Impact driver (for rotor retaining screw) — Philips/hex screw may be rusted; an impact driver applies rotational shock to break screw loose.
- Torque angle gauge (rare) — not typically required for R32 brake work.

- Preparation before disassembly
- Loosen lug nuts slightly while car is on the ground (break them with the lug wrench or breaker bar).
- Raise car with floor jack, place jack stands, lower car onto stands, re-check stability.
- Remove wheel and set aside.

- Removing the caliper and rotor (general R32 procedure)
- Inspect the caliper area for ABS sensor wiring and retain it away from work area.
- Locate caliper guide/slide bolts (typically on the inner side of the caliper). Spray penetrating oil and let soak.
- Remove caliper bolts with the appropriate socket/Allen bit. Use steady force; if seized, apply penetrating oil + heat carefully (avoid brake lines).
- Slide caliper off rotor. If it’s tight, pry carefully with a flat screwdriver between caliper and bracket to free it.
- Hang caliper with a bungee cord or use caliper hanger to avoid stress on the brake hose.
- Remove pads from caliper bracket; note orientation and any shims/retainers.
- Remove caliper mounting bracket bolts (if your rotor is behind the bracket; many setups require removing bracket to take rotor off). Spray bolts if rusty and use breaker bar if necessary.
- Remove rotor retaining screw (if present). If screw won’t turn, use penetrating oil and an impact driver or hammer + screwdriver technique.
- Pull rotor straight off the hub. If rotor is stuck to hub from rust, strike the rotor face near the hub seam with a rubber mallet or use penetrating oil on the hub and reattempt. Keep hub still; don’t force the wheel studs.

- Cleaning and inspection
- Clean hub mating surface with wire brush until flat and rust-free; new rotor must sit flush.
- Measure rotor thickness with micrometer and compare to minimum spec (factory manual). If below spec, replace.
- Inspect wheel bearings, studs, ABS tone ring and sensor for damage.
- Inspect caliper pistons and boots — torn boots or seized pistons require caliper rebuild/replacement.

- Installing new rotor and reassembly
- Put a thin layer of anti-seize on hub mating surface (avoid getting any on rotor friction surface).
- Slide new rotor onto hub; use a lug nut or two on threaded studs to hold the rotor in place while reassembling.
- Reinstall caliper bracket and torque bolts to factory spec (consult manual). Use thread locker if specified; replace bolts if corroded.
- Compress caliper piston using C-clamp or piston tool with an old pad in place for even pressure. For rear caliper with integrated handbrake, use appropriate rewind tool if required.
- Clean and lubricate caliper guide pins and reinsert with fresh grease; replace boots if damaged.
- Install new pads and anti-rattle hardware per orientation. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to pad contact points (not on friction surface).
- Reinstall caliper over pads/bracket and torque guide bolts to spec.
- Reinstall wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts, lower car, then torque wheel lug nuts to factory spec (consult manual; typical passenger car range ~100–130 Nm / 74–96 ft·lb — verify for your model).

- Hydraulic system and final checks
- Check brake fluid reservoir level and top up with manufacturer-specified fluid (DOT3/DOT4 as required). Do not mix incompatible fluids.
- Pump brake pedal with engine off until firm before driving; pedal may be low the first pump as pistons settle.
- If you opened the brake line or suspect air, bleed the brake(s) using a two-person method, vacuum bleeder, or pressure bleeder until no air and pedal is firm.
- Check for leaks at caliper and hose connections.
- Bed-in procedure: follow pad manufacturer instructions — typically several moderate stops from low speed to warm pads/rotors gradually; avoid heavy braking for the first 100–200 km.
- Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50–100 km.

- Common issues and how to handle them
- Rotor stuck to hub — use penetrating oil, rubber mallet taps near hub, or remove hub studs if necessary; avoid excessive force that could damage studs/hub.
- Seized caliper bolts — heat (carefully) around the bolt head and apply penetrating oil, use breaker bar or impact.
- Caliper piston won’t retract — check for seized piston (may need rebuild/replacement) or a screwed-back parking brake mechanism requiring the rewind tool.
- ABS sensor damage — don’t pull on the sensor wire; if broken, replace the sensor and/or wiring harness.

- When to replace additional parts
- Replace calipers if pistons are seized, boots torn, or if they leak.
- Replace pads whenever you install new rotors for best results.
- Replace rotors instead of machining if they’re near minimum thickness, have severe scoring, or if rotor runout is excessive — machining reduces thickness and shortens life.
- Replace guide pins/boots if corroded or sticky; these directly affect braking performance.
- Replace wheel bearings if there is play/noise when spinning the hub.

- Final safety reminders
- Do not drive the vehicle until the brake pedal is firm and you have tested brakes at low speed in a safe area.
- Use factory service manual torque specs and procedures for your specific R32 variant (GT, GT-R, engine type differences) — this guide is general; exact bolt sizes, torque values, and parking brake procedures can vary.
- If at any point you feel uncertain, have the work inspected or completed by a qualified mechanic.

- Quick checklist to bring to the job
- New rotors, new pads, caliper hardware kit, brake fluid, anti-seize, brake grease.
- Floor jack, jack stands, lug wrench, torque wrench, socket set, Allen/Torx set, C-clamp or piston tool, penetrating oil, wire brush, brake cleaner, bungee cord.

Done — follow each step carefully and consult the Skyline R32 factory service manual for exact bolt sizes and torque specs.
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