Tools / consumables
- Basic hand tools: socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extensions, box-end wrenches, screwdrivers (flat + Phillips), pliers.
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (for Nissan quick-connect fuel fittings).
- Fuel pump lock-ring tool or adjustable strap wrench (OEM pump lock rings are tight; a proper tool prevents damage).
- Torque wrench (for reassembly where spec is available).
- Jack, jack stands and wheel chocks (if tank must be dropped).
- Fuel-safe drain pan, rags, disposable gloves (nitrile), safety goggles.
- Fire extinguisher (ABC) nearby.
- New pump module or pump assembly, new pump sock/strainer, new seal/O‑ring for pump locking ring, new fuel hoses/clamps as needed, replacement fuel filter (if external), dielectric grease, light oil or petrol for O‑ring.
- Light, inspection mirror.
- Multimeter / fuel pressure gauge for testing.

Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Work in a well-ventilated outdoor or well-vented garage. No open flames, smoking, or hot work nearby.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing any fuel system work.
- Relieve fuel system pressure before opening any lines: pull the fuel pump fuse/relay then crank engine until it stalls (or use the Schrader valve if present) with ignition OFF between attempts.
- Wear goggles and gloves; clean up/contain all fuel promptly; dispose of rags safely.
- If lifting the car, use jack stands on solid ground and chock wheels.
- Keep a fire extinguisher within reach.

Parts to replace (recommended)
- Fuel pump module or pump cartridge (OEM or quality aftermarket).
- In-tank pump strainer (sock).
- O‑ring / gasket for pump locking ring (always replace).
- External fuel filter (if the vehicle uses one) and clamps/hose if brittle.
- Any cracked fuel hoses, corroded connectors, or failing electrical pigtails.

Two removal paths (R32 specific): access-panel vs. tank drop
(Some R32 variants have an access panel under the rear seat or in the trunk carpet; others require dropping the tank. Check for an access cover—if present use that method. If not, follow tank drop procedure.)

Procedure A — Access-panel / in-tank module removal
1. Prepare: relieve pressure and disconnect negative battery. Remove rear seat cushion or trunk carpet to expose access panel (location varies — lean toward under rear seat or under trunk carpet on the right).
2. Remove panel: remove screws/bolts and lift cover. Use a rag under the area to catch small fuel.
3. Disconnect electrical connector(s)): depress tab and pull connector straight off. Use multimeter if diagnosing.
4. Disconnect fuel lines: use the correct Nissan quick-disconnect tool; insert the tool into the fitting to release the retaining collar, then pull the line straight off. Have a rag/drain pan ready — expect some fuel spillage.
5. Note float position: mark or photograph the position of the fuel-level sender float arm before moving it.
6. Remove retaining ring: use the OEM lock-ring tool or an adjustable strap wrench to turn the ring counterclockwise. If no tool, tapping a large brass drift around the ring can work but risks damage — avoid if possible.
7. Lift out pump module: extract the module straight up, maneuver the float arm carefully to avoid bending. Replace sock/strainer if it’s integral.
8. Transfer parts: if using a new pump cartridge, transfer the float/sender and other brackets per instructions—or install the new module assembly including new O‑ring.
9. Reinstall: coat new O‑ring lightly with clean petrol or light oil, seat it correctly, insert module squarely, torque/seat locking ring evenly until fully seated.
10. Reconnect fuel lines and electrical connector.
11. Reconnect battery, turn key to ON for a few seconds to prime pump, check for leaks.
12. Start engine, confirm operation and correct fuel gauge reading.

Procedure B — Fuel-tank removal (if no access)
1. Prepare: relieve pressure, disconnect battery, drain as much fuel as practical into an approved container (use fuel siphon or run engine until low).
2. Lift car, chock wheels, support with jack stands.
3. Support the tank with a transmission jack or floor jack with wood block.
4. Remove fuel tank straps/bolts (commonly 12–14 mm). Lower tank slightly and disconnect fuel filler neck, fuel lines (use quick-disconnect tools), vent lines, and electrical connectors.
5. Lower tank and move to a clean work area. Clean top of tank before opening the pump access to avoid contamination.
6. Proceed with steps 6–12 from Procedure A to remove and replace the pump module.
7. Reinstall tank: route hoses correctly, tighten filler neck band clamps, torque straps to OEM spec if available, refill with a few liters of fuel to prevent airlock, then reconnect battery and prime.

How tools are used (details)
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool: slide tool into the plastic fitting until it seats against the quick-connect collar. Push inwards to compress the retaining ring, then pull the fuel line straight off the male fitting.
- Pump lock-ring tool / strap wrench: engage tool fully around the ring and rotate counterclockwise to loosen. Using screwdrivers/hammer can deform the ring — avoid unless you accept possible sealing issues.
- Multimeter: check 12V at the pump connector when key is on (one terminal should see switched 12V, other ground). For continuity or diagnosing wiring issues, use proper Ohm/voltage checks.

Reassembly and testing
- Always use a new O‑ring/seal and seat it properly. A pinched or twisted seal causes leaks.
- Hand-start the lock ring, then torque or seat evenly. Don’t over-tighten; secure fit is needed.
- Prime the system by turning ignition to ON (do not crank) for 2–3 cycles to allow pump to pressurize. Check for leaks.
- Install a fuel pressure gauge at the test port or rail and verify pressure meets spec (typical returnless systems ~40–60 psi; consult OEM spec for exact).
- Check for fuel odor/leaks around fittings and ring after a few minutes of running.
- Verify fuel gauge and warning lights function.

Common pitfalls / what to avoid
- Not relieving fuel pressure — leads to spray and extra risk.
- Reusing old lock-ring O‑ring — causes leaks.
- Damaging float arm or sender during removal/installation — leads to false gauge readings.
- Using improper tool for lock ring — can deform ring or housing, causing leaks or poor seating.
- Forgetting to reconnect vapor/vent hoses or routing them incorrectly — causes vapor leaks or tank pressure issues.
- Over-tightening or cross-threading fittings.
- Not replacing old fuel hoses or clamps — brittle hoses can split later.
- Not checking pump electrical connector for corrosion — a bad connector can make a new pump seem faulty.
- Not testing fuel pressure — you need to confirm pump flow/pressure before declaring job done.

Final checks
- No leaks after 5–10 minutes of engine run at idle and a few revs.
- Correct fuel pressure and pump current draw (compare to spec).
- Fuel gauge behaves normally and there are no warning lights.

Follow OEM service manual torque values and part numbers where possible. End.
rteeqp73

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