Tools & PPE
- Tools: floor jack + 2 jack stands (or full lift), wheel chocks, 3/8" & 1/2" ratchets, breaker bar, socket set (10–19 mm / 3/8–3/4"), combination wrenches, long extension, universal joint, torque wrench, penetrating oil (PB Blaster or equivalent), wire brush, flat pry bar or exhaust hanger pliers, rubber mallet, exhaust clamp set (correct diameter), bench vise or exhaust stand, shop towels.
- Cutting (if required): reciprocating saw with metal cutting blade or angle grinder (use only if necessary).
- Replacement/hardware: replacement muffler (R32-specific fit), exhaust flange gasket(s), new nuts/bolts or M8–M12 flange bolts as required, new U‑clamps or band clamps sized to pipe, new exhaust hangers or bushing(s) if old are perished, high‑temp anti‑seize compound, exhaust paste/sealant (optional).
- PPE & safety: safety glasses, mechanic gloves, hearing protection (when cutting), respirator for grinding/cutting, long sleeves, fire extinguisher rated for metal/chemical fires, ventilation if working indoors.

Safety precautions (do these first)
1. Work only on a cold exhaust system. Hot metal will burn and paste/paint off.
2. Park on level ground, block wheels (front wheels if working on rear), engage parking brake.
3. Use a rated floor jack and place jack stands under manufacturer-recommended lift points. Never rely on the jack alone.
4. Support the exhaust with a second jack or strap before removing hangers/bolts.
5. If cutting, remove flammable materials and have a fire extinguisher nearby. Use eye, hearing, and respiratory protection.

Step-by-step: remove old muffler (R32)
1. Preparation
- Raise the car, secure on jack stands, chock the front wheels.
- Put on PPE. Spray penetrating oil on all visible exhaust bolts, clamps, and hangers and let soak 10–20 minutes.

2. Support the exhaust
- Place a floor jack or stand under the muffler assembly: use wood block between jack and muffler to avoid crushing the pipe.
- Slightly lift to take weight off the hangers; do not lift suspension.

3. Disconnect flange (if applicable)
- Locate the flange connection between mid‑pipe and muffler. On R32 models there may be a flange or slip joint.
- Use appropriate sized sockets/wrenches (commonly 12–17 mm). If bolts are seized, use breaker bar and more penetrating oil. Heat can be used cautiously with a torch—protect nearby fuel/brake lines and be aware of fuel vapors.
- Remove nuts and keep bolts if reusable or replace with new grade bolts.

4. Remove clamps/slip joints
- If the muffler is clamped on a slip joint, loosen and remove the clamps.
- If deeply corroded, you may need to cut the clamp or cut the pipe section to free the muffler. Cut as close to the muffler body as possible to preserve remaining pipe.

5. Remove from hangers
- Pry the rubber hangers off the muffler’s hanger brackets using a pry bar or exhaust hanger pliers. Rotate/move the muffler while supporting with the jack. Remove the muffler from the car.

6. Inspect mating surfaces
- Clean flange faces and pipe ends with wire brush. Remove carbon build-up and rust. Check mid‑pipe/gasket flange and hanger brackets for damage.
- Replace any corroded bolts, nuts, or hanger hardware.

Installing the new muffler
7. Pre-fit & hardware prep
- Compare old vs new muffler for inlet/outlet diameters and hanger locations. If R32 aftermarket mufflers sometimes need adapters or different clamps; ensure pipe diameters match (bring old muffler when buying).
- Put high‑temp anti‑seize on new bolt threads, and lay new gasket on flange if used.

8. Mount muffler into hangers
- With the jack supporting new muffler, fit the muffler hangers into their rubber mounts. Push the hangers fully into the rubber boots; apply a small amount of silicone spray or soap water if tight.
- Don’t fully tighten any clamps or bolts yet.

9. Connect flange/slip joint
- Slide muffler inlet onto mid‑pipe. Install new gasket and start bolts or fit clamp around slip joint. Hand‑tighten bolts/clamp evenly to allow for alignment.
- If welding is required/specified, hold in place and have a shop weld the slip or flange ends—only if you have welding experience/equipment.

10. Align & set clearances
- Ensure the muffler body and pipes have 10–20 mm clearance from body panels, suspension, fuel lines, and brake lines. Misalignment causes vibration and rattles.
- Adjust for symmetry and exhaust tip placement relative to bumper cutout.

11. Final torque & seal
- Tighten flange bolts and clamps to manufacturer spec or snug evenly. Typical clamp bolt torque range: 20–40 Nm (15–30 ft‑lb). Use a torque wrench where possible.
- If using exhaust paste/sealant, apply per product instructions at slip joints.

12. Lower & test
- Lower the jack slowly, ensuring exhaust remains supported by hangers.
- Start the engine, check for leaks at flanges and joints (with a hand, feel for escaping air; don’t put your face near the tailpipe). Listen for rattles and inspect for movement.
- Recheck torque after a short heat cycle (10–20 minutes) as bolts/clamps can seat and loosen.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Rusted bolts break: apply penetrating oil early, use breaker bar, heat carefully, or drill/replace the stud/bolt—carry spares.
- Cutting wrong spot: measure and mark before cutting, try to remove clamps first; cutting means you may need an adapter sleeve.
- Wrong pipe diameter/hanger position: always bring old muffler to seller or verify OEM fitment for R32 (BNR32/GTR or GTST variations can differ). Use adapter pipes or proper clamps if diameters differ.
- Poor gasket/clamp sealing: always use new gaskets and good quality clamps; tighten evenly to avoid leaks.
- Exhaust contacting body or components: leave clearance to prevent heat damage and rattles.
- Not replacing old hangers: perished rubber hangers cause sagging and eventual failure—replace if any cracking.
- Overtightening bolts: may strip threads or crush clamps; torque to spec.

When to call a pro
- If outlet/inlet are welded on and removal requires cutting and precise welding.
- If flange studs are snapped and stuck in the head or pipe—professional extraction or replacement needed.
- If you don’t have safe lift equipment or welding skills.

Quick checklist before finishing
- All hangers seated and hardware new or torqued.
- No contact with bodywork, fuel or brake lines.
- No exhaust leaks.
- Muffler centered and tip aligned.
- Re‑check after first drive and after 100–200 km.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

1990 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR: Regular Car Reviews Still fast. #r32 #skyline #nissanskyline.

R32 Nissan Skyline - How to Read ECU Error Codes Hey guys, I was having an issue with my car so I decided to make a video on how to check the ECU for error codes. Check it out.

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