Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Nissan Skyline R32 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Short, ordered procedure with theory for replacing rear leaf springs on a Nissan Skyline R32, showing why each action fixes the faults. Follow factory torque specs and use jack stands. No extra chat.

Overview / theory first
- What a leaf spring does: supports vehicle weight, sets ride height and spring rate, locates the axle (longitudinally and to some extent laterally), and resists axle rotation under acceleration/braking. The spring’s eye bushings and shackles allow controlled articulation.
- Common failure modes & symptoms: sagging ride height and reduced spring rate (too-low rear, harsh or bottoming ride), cracked/broken individual leaves, broken center bolt, worn/deteriorated rubber/urethane bushings or elongated shackle holes, clunks or lateral axle shift, uneven tire wear, poor handling. These failures create slack, change geometry, reduce ability to control axle forces.
- How replacement fixes the fault: restores correct spring rate and height, removes play caused by broken leaves/center-bolt, replaces worn bushings so the axle is located correctly and without slop, returns proper suspension geometry and damping loads to the shocks.

Tools & safety (brief)
- Floor jack, axle support jack, quality jack stands, wheel chocks, breaker bar, socket/ratchet set, torque wrench, pry bar, hammer, new U-bolts/nuts, new spring bushings/shackles if needed, penetrating oil. Consult manual for torques.
- Safety: work on level ground, chock front wheels, fully support chassis with stands; never rely on jack alone; support the axle with a jack to prevent uncontrolled drop.

Ordered steps with theory (do them in sequence)

1) Prepare and inspect before disassembly
- Action: measure rear ride height, note handling issues, inspect spring for broken leaves, cracked center bolt, corroded shackle eyes and bushings, condition of shock absorbers and U-bolts.
- Theory: baseline measurement lets you verify repair success. Pre-inspection identifies associated worn parts (bushings, shocks, U-bolts) that must be replaced to fully cure symptoms.

2) Secure vehicle and support axle
- Action: chock front wheels; lift vehicle by chassis and place jack stands under rated points; support the axle with a hydraulic jack directly under differential or axle tube.
- Theory: supporting the axle prevents sudden drop when the spring is removed. The axle jack also lets you control axle position to keep brake lines/panhard (if fitted) and driveshaft pinion angle from being overstressed.

3) Remove wheel and any components restricting spring removal
- Action: remove wheel. On R32, unbolt shock lower eye/bolt and any swaybar link or brake line bracket attached to the spring/axle that blocks removal.
- Theory: shock must be disconnected because leaf spring and shock share control of vertical movement. Removing obstructing brackets prevents overstressing lines and allows free articulation.

4) Unload spring and remove retaining hardware
- Action: with axle supported, loosen and remove U-bolts that clamp the axle seat to the spring. Remove center-pin/bolt if needed. Remove shackle and front eye bolt(s) or bolt that holds front spring eye to frame.
- Theory: U-bolts clamp the axle to the spring; removing them releases the axle from the spring. Keeping the axle supported keeps the differential and driveshaft geometry stable. Removing shackles/eye bolts frees the spring for removal.

5) Withdraw the old spring
- Action: lower the axle slightly or manipulate spring to clear mounts and remove the spring assembly from shackle and front eye.
- Theory: controlled lowering prevents abrupt changes in angle and avoids stretching brake hoses and wiring. Inspect perch, saddle, spring seat and shackles for wear/corrosion while spring is out.

6) Prepare new spring and mounts
- Action: compare new spring to old (length, number/thickness of leaves, center hole alignment). Replace worn bushings, shackle bolts, and U-bolts. Clean and inspect axle saddle and frame mounts. Fit new bushes to spring eyes (use grease if urethane, or use factory spec lubricant if rubber). Replace center bolt and any spring clip hardware if required.
- Theory: matching spring characteristics preserves intended spring rate and ride height. New bushings remove play; new U-bolts maintain clamping preload and correct axle locating. Clean mating surfaces ensure spring seats fully and centers correctly.

7) Install new spring in exact orientation
- Action: position new spring in perch with correct nose/eye orientation (front vs rear). Insert front eye bolt and shackle bolts loosely to allow alignment. Reposition axle onto the spring and re-fit U-bolts finger-tight. Ensure spring center pin aligns with perch.
- Theory: correct orientation ensures leaf curvature and progressive arch work as designed; bushings and shackles should be free to swivel until final torque. The axle must sit centered on the spring to maintain lateral location.

8) Pre-torque and align then final-torque under load
- Action: raise or lower the axle to normal ride height (raise chassis off stands slightly so suspension is supporting weight) or have vehicle on ground if possible, then torque shackles/front eye and U-bolts to factory spec. If you torque while axle unloaded, retorque after settling (see next step).
- Theory: torquing fasteners with suspension loaded sets clamping preload consistent with operating geometry. U-bolts should be tightened only when axle and spring are in their loaded position to avoid preloading or misalignment.

9) Reinstall shocks, brackets, wheels; lower vehicle and settle
- Action: reattach shock lower bolts, any brackets removed, fit wheel, lower vehicle to ground carefully, settle suspension by bouncing or short drive.
- Theory: shocks control damping; they should be in place to control rebound while you torque final fasteners and during initial settling.

10) Final checks and re-torque
- Action: after 50–100 km drive (or a few cycles of load), recheck and re-torque U-bolts, shackles and eye bolts to spec. Inspect for noise, ride height, tire wear, and alignment. Replace or realign if required.
- Theory: leaf springs and U-bolts can “seat” under load; retorquing ensures clamping integrity and prevents fastener stretch or loss of preload which would recreate slop.

How each repair action cures the symptoms (concise)
- Replacing the broken/sagging spring restores the original arch and spring rate -> returns ride height and corrects bottoming/harsh ride.
- Installing new center bolt and straight leaves eliminates lateral and rotational play -> removes clunks and stabilizes axle location.
- New bushings remove elastic play at the pivot points -> eliminates shuddering/clunks and returns predictable suspension articulation.
- New U-bolts and proper torquing re-clamps axle to spring -> prevents axle shifting and ensures longitudinal axle location under acceleration/braking.
- Reinstalling shocks and proper preload allows the damper to control oscillations that springs produce -> restores handling and prevents resonance.

Quick troubleshooting notes (theory-guided)
- If ride height still low after new spring: check that you installed the correct spring (arch and length) and that shackles aren’t collapsed or mounts bent; worn shock mounts or body sagging can mimic spring sag.
- If clunk persists: look for worn bushings, loose U-bolts, loose shock mounts, or damaged axle saddle.
- If axle shifts laterally: ensure spring is centered on perch and U-bolts are torqued; check for bent spring seat or damaged lateral locating components.

Finish: verify factory torque specs, replace any ancillary worn parts found, and do a road test verifying ride height, handling, and that noises are gone. Retorque after initial settling.

End.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions