Summary of the fault (why you’re doing this)
- A damaged/corroded spring seat (perch) lets the coil sit off-centre, creaks/clunks, lets the spring rub or cut the rubber isolator, changes ride height and preload, and concentrates load on the spring end or suspension arm. The repair restores correct seating, load path and containment of spring energy so the spring, arm and chassis share loads as designed.

Tools/parts/safety (short)
- Tools: jack and rated jackstands, torque wrench, spring compressor (front strut), prybars, sockets/wrenches, penetrating oil, wire brush, grinder/cut-off and welding gear only if welding a replacement, replacement spring seat or OEM part, rubber isolator.
- Safety: always support the car on stands; treat compressed springs as stored energy — use a proper compressor; wear eye/hand protection.

Ordered repair with theory (concise, each step then the theory of what it fixes)

1) Confirm symptom and locate the failed seat
- Action: Inspect visually under the car with wheel removed. Look for cracked/broken perch, rust-through, deformed metal, missing rubber isolator, or spring end not seated in a groove.
- Theory: Visual inspection locates the point where load transfer is failing. The spring seat must provide a concentric, rigid seat for the spring end; damage changes load vectors and permits movement/noise.

2) Prepare and lift vehicle safely
- Action: Loosen wheel nuts, lift vehicle, secure on jackstands, remove wheel.
- Theory: Removing wheel and safely supporting the car unloads the area and gives access. Correct support prevents unintended suspension travel which can alter spring position and risk injury.

3) Unload the spring
- Action for front (MacPherson): remove the strut assembly or use a spring compressor to contain the spring before disassembly. Action for rear (multi-link/semi-trailing): support the axle/arm with a jack and lower the control arm enough to release spring preload (or remove hub/arm as needed).
- Theory: Springs store energy; unloading or correctly compressing isolates that energy so you can safely separate spring from perch. Lowering the arm lets the spring be removed without forcing the seat apart.

4) Remove spring and isolator
- Action: With spring unloaded or compressed, remove it and the rubber isolator/insulator. Clean the surrounding area to access the seat.
- Theory: Removing spring permits inspection/repair of the seat and shows whether the spring end is damaged. The isolator is part of the load path and NVH control; damaged isolators must be replaced.

5) Assess repair method: replace or fabricate/weld
- Action: Decide: (A) fit a new OEM/aftermarket perch (preferred), (B) fit a new seat welded in place by a competent welder, or (C) fit a repair sleeve if available.
- Theory: A new perch restores the original geometry and material properties. Welding a worn/broken perch can be acceptable if done to restore concentricity and strength; poor welding can introduce stress risers or distort geometry, causing repeat failure. Replacement removes uncertainty about metal fatigue.

6) Remove the old seat
- Action: Unbolt/cut away the damaged perch. For welded perches, grind welds or cut and remove the ring. Clean mating surfaces and check the surrounding arm/strut for cracks.
- Theory: Elimination of weakened metal removes the source of movement and wear. Checking adjacent structure ensures you don’t restore a seat onto a cracked arm which will re-fail.

7) Fit the new seat accurately
- Action: Install the new perch so it seats concentrically and square to the arm/strut. If welding, tack in position, check alignment, then finish weld with good penetration and minimal distortion. If bolted, torque to spec and use new hardware if required. Replace the rubber insulator.
- Theory: Correct concentric seating ensures the spring end bears evenly around its coil; this distributes load uniformly and prevents lateral forces that bend the spring, arm or alter alignment. Good welding or correct clamping ensures the seat becomes a continuous load-bearing part again.

8) Corrosion protection and NVH parts
- Action: Paint or coat repaired area with rust-proofing and fit a new rubber isolator/dust cover.
- Theory: Corrosion started the problem in many older Skylines; preventing re-corrosion preserves structural integrity. The isolator damps contact noise and prevents metal-on-metal wear.

9) Reinstall spring and reassemble
- Action: Reinstall spring (compress if front) ensuring the spring sits in the seat groove. Reassemble strut/arm, torque fasteners to factory specs, and reattach any swaybar links or brake/hub components.
- Theory: Proper torque and geometry restore the original kinematics and load paths; the spring must sit in its groove so axial and radial loads go where designed, not onto the insulator edge or arm.

10) Lower, check static ride height and alignment, test
- Action: Lower the car, check ride height on both sides, and do a short road test for noise and handling. Get a wheel alignment if ride height or arm geometry changed.
- Theory: Equal ride height and correct alignment verify that springs are loaded symmetrically and suspension geometry is restored. Alignment ensures steering and tyre wear are not adversely affected by corrected spring seating.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Restores concentric seating: the spring’s forces are returned to the designed traces so the coil compresses/extends properly rather than translating sideways.
- Eliminates movement/noise: a rigid, well-fitted perch removes relative movement between spring and seat that causes clunks/creaks.
- Removes stress concentrations: replacing/welding out cracks removes fatigue initiation points and prevents spring end damage.
- Re-establishes ride height and geometry: correct seating returns preload and suspension geometry, preventing uneven tyre wear and handling faults.

Final cautions (brief)
- Springs store energy — a released/failed spring can cause severe injury. Use proper compressors and follow safe practices.
- If welding, only a competent welder should perform it — incorrect welds or heat treatment can make failure worse.
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket parts; cheap replacements can fail prematurely.

That’s the ordered theory-focused repair sequence and why each action solves the fault.
rteeqp73

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R32 Nissan Skyline - How to Read ECU Error Codes Hey guys, I was having an issue with my car so I decided to make a video on how to check the ECU for error codes. Check it out.

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