Below is a clear, practical, step‑by‑step guide to adjusting the parking (hand) brake on a Nissan Skyline R32 for a beginner mechanic. It includes why the job is needed, how the system works, detailed descriptions of every component you’ll encounter, what can go wrong, the tools and safety steps, and multiple adjustment methods since R32s were built with a couple of common cable/adjuster layouts.

Short top‑level summary
- The parking brake is a mechanical backup that holds the car with cables and levers independent of the hydraulic brakes. If it’s too loose you get many lever “clicks” and poor hold; if too tight you get drag and overheating. Adjust it by taking slack out of the cable(s) at the handbrake lever, the under‑body equalizer, or the rear caliper adjusters depending on which layout your car has.

Why this repair is needed (theory)
- The parking brake uses a hand lever (or pedal in some cars) to pull a cable that applies the rear brakes. Over time cables stretch, housings compress, components wear, and the effective travel increases — like a worn bowstring needing more pull for the same arrow speed. If the cable is slack the lever clicks many times before it holds, and the car can roll. If adjusted too tight you cause constant brake drag, overheating, accelerated pad/shoe wear and poor fuel economy. Proper adjustment restores correct travel and balanced braking force left‑to‑right.

How the system works — plain language and analogies
- Handbrake lever & ratchet: The lever is the handle you pull. Inside the lever unit is a ratchet and pawl (like a staircase lock) that holds the lever position when you pull it. A return spring takes it back when you release.
- Main/inner cable and sheath: The lever pulls a steel inner cable that runs inside a flexible outer sheath (like brake cables on a bike). The inner cable transmits the tug.
- Equalizer / splitter: The single cable often splits into two cables for each rear wheel via an equalizer — think of it as a Y‑junction that shares tension evenly between two siblings pulling on the same rope.
- Rear cables and fittings: Two outer cables continue to each rear caliper/actuator. Each cable has end fittings (ferrules) and sometimes an adjustable threaded section.
- Caliper parking lever / shoe actuator: On disk setups the cable pulls a small lever on the caliper that mechanically pushes the pads slightly onto the rotor (or operates a small screw‑type shoe inside “drum in hat” style). This is the final mechanical actuator that creates braking force.
- Adjusters & lock nuts: Adjustment points can be at the handbrake lever (star‑wheel or threaded nut), at the underbody equalizer (threaded adjuster in the Y), or at the caliper end (threaded rod/eyebolt). Lock nuts or clips hold adjustments in place.
- Anchors, clamps, guides: The cable is routed and held by brackets and rubber guides; these keep it from binding and prevent excess movement.

Components you’ll inspect and manipulate (detailed)
- Handbrake lever assembly: handle, ratchet teeth, pawl, return spring, lever pivot, lever‑side cable end fitting.
- Inner cable (main): steel wire that transmits pull; inspect for fraying.
- Cable sheath (outer housing): rubber/plastic covered flexible tube; look for rusted internal sleeve or broken outer.
- Equalizer (Y plate): metal junction that splits cable force; usually adjustable via threaded rod and lock nut.
- Rear outer cables: left and right runs from equalizer to caliper; inspect routing, guides, and clips.
- Caliper parking lever or drum‑in‑hat shoe & adjuster: the mechanical part at the wheel that the cable pulls.
- Adjuster nuts/locknuts, retaining clips, ferrules and eyelets.
- Mounts/brackets and rubber boots: hold cable ends and keep water/grit out.
- Rear brake pads/shoes, rotor/drum: if pads/shoes are worn the parking brake travel will change; always check them.

Tools and supplies
- Wheel chocks, jack and axle stands, gloves, safety glasses.
- Lug wrench or impact for wheel removal, sockets and ratchet set.
- 10–19 mm wrenches (common sizes for adjusters vary).
- Flat screwdriver, pliers, adjustable spanner.
- Wire brush, penetrating oil (PB Blaster), grease or light oil, rags.
- Torque wrench for wheel lug nuts (set to wheel spec).
- Optional: mirror and flashlight, feeler gauge, replacement clips/cables if needed.

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- Work on level ground. Chock front wheels before you start.
- Do not rely on a jack alone — use properly rated stands.
- With the car jacked and stands in place, ensure it is stable before getting under.
- Test adjustments while wheels are on the ground (use stands for access only).

Typical symptoms that indicate adjustment is needed
- Handbrake lever has too many clicks before it locks (loose cable/worn pads).
- Lever locks after only 1–2 clicks (too tight).
- Car rolls on a slope with handbrake engaged (ineffective).
- Brake drag (feeling, smell, or hot rear wheels after a short drive).
- Unequal braking or pulling to one side with handbrake engaged.

Step‑by‑step general diagnostic checks (quick)
1. Park car on level surface, chock front wheels, put car in gear (manual) or park (auto), set the lever to OFF.
2. Lift rear slightly and support with stands so rear wheels can be spun by hand. (Alternatively, remove wheels if needed.)
3. Rotate each rear wheel by hand to check for free spin. Any heavy drag could be seized cables/calipers.
4. With car on ground and engine off, apply the handbrake and count the number of clicks. Note number. Typical acceptable range is roughly 4–7 clicks on many cars; check a service manual if you want the exact R32 spec, but more than about 8–9 clicks is usually too slack.
5. With the handbrake fully applied, try to roll the car forward/back slightly — there should be a firm hold and little movement.
6. With the handbrake fully released, recheck wheel spin — both wheels should free spin similarly.

Adjustment methods (covering R32 variations)
You will find one of these setups on an R32: A) lever‑mounted adjuster, B) underbody equalizer adjuster, or C) caliper mounted adjusters. Follow the method that matches your car.

A — Handbrake lever (interior) adjuster method
This is the easiest if your R32 has a star wheel or threaded adjuster in the lever assembly.
- Access: Remove the center console or a small trim cover around the handbrake to expose the adjuster nut or star wheel.
- Procedure:
1. With the car safely supported on stands or with wheels on the ground (but rear wheels free to spin for checking), make sure lever is fully released.
2. Pull the lever up a few clicks to get access to the adjuster if necessary (some designs allow access with lever down).
3. Loosen the lock nut or release the retainer (if present). If it’s a star wheel, use pliers or a screwdriver to turn.
4. Turn the adjuster nut/star wheel toward the lever (tighten) to take up slack. Turn a quarter to half turn at a time.
5. Fully release the lever and then pull it up counting clicks. Repeat until lever travel is in the desired range (roughly 4–7 clicks), and when applied the car holds firmly and rear wheels have no excessive drag.
6. Tighten the lock nut/replace retainer to secure the setting.
7. Test road/parking behavior and recheck after a short drive.
Notes: Don’t over‑tighten; you should not have constant drag when released.

B — Underbody equalizer adjuster method
Some R32s have the adjuster at the equalizer under the car along the tunnel/centerline where the single cable splits into two.
- Access: Crawl under (supported) or raise the car; locate the Y‑junction equalizer near the center of the car along the cable run.
- Procedure:
1. With car supported, chock front wheels, ensure rear wheels can be spun.
2. Count current handbrake clicks and note behavior.
3. Loosen the equalizer lock nut or retaining clip.
4. Turn the threaded adjuster clockwise (pulling up on the cables) to remove slack. Tighten a small amount each time.
5. Check lever travel after each small adjustment. Target the same 4–7 click range and ensure the car holds with the lever pulled.
6. Ensure left/right tension is balanced: visually check that both cable ends are pulled roughly equally at the equalizer. If not, you can adjust left/right individually at the caliper or by repositioning cable end in the equalizer if design allows.
7. Tighten the lock nut and apply anti‑seize or grease to threads if desired.
8. Recheck wheel spin and test drive.

C — Caliper or rear‑end adjuster method
If your R32 has adjusters at each rear caliper or uses a threaded rod/eyebolt, adjust at the wheel.
- Access: Remove rear wheel or work behind caliper to access adjuster.
- Procedure:
1. Ensure the handbrake lever is released and the car is safely supported.
2. Identify the adjuster on the cable near the caliper (threaded rod with lock nut or screw‑type adjuster).
3. Loosen the lock nut.
4. Turn the adjuster clockwise to take up slack. Make small turns and then check lever travel.
5. Check that left and right brakes drag approximately the same when the handbrake is applied. If one side is tighter, back it off and tighten the other to balance.
6. Tighten lock nut, grease threads lightly, reassemble wheels, torquing lug nuts properly.
7. Road test and recheck.

How to check for proper tension and balance
- With the car on ground, handbrake fully applied, try to push/pull the car slightly: it should not roll and feel secure.
- With handbrake released, both rear wheels should freely spin by hand with roughly equal resistance.
- With the lever at mid travel (2–3 clicks) you should feel moderate resistance building.
- If one wheel drags much more than the other, the cables are uneven, the equalizer is faulty, or a caliper/parking lever is seized.

Common failure modes and how to identify/fix them
- Stretched cable: Many clicks before engagement. Fix: adjust if within range; if it’s stretched beyond adjuster capacity replace cable.
- Frayed inner cable: Inspect near fittings; replace cable if frayed (risk of break).
- Seized cable (inner not sliding): Rear wheel doesn’t release or you feel continuous drag. Spray penetrating oil at sheath ends, work the inner cable back and forth; if it still binds replace cable.
- Seized caliper parking lever or stuck slide pins: One side drags or doesn’t engage. Remove caliper, free lever, clean/lubricate pivot, replace caliper hardware if corroded.
- Worn pads/shoes: As brake material wears down you need more lever travel. Replace pads/shoes and then adjust.
- Damaged equalizer or missing retaining clip: Can cause imbalance; replace equalizer if bent or corroded.
- Broken or missing return spring on caliper/lever: Lever may not return, causing drag. Replace springs.
- Rusted threads on adjusters/locknuts: Use careful penetrating oil; if threads are stripped replace adjuster components.

When to replace parts instead of adjusting
- Cable binds or frays anywhere — replace.
- Adjuster threads stripped — replace adjuster or cable end.
- Corroded caliper lever or pivot that won’t free with cleaning — replace caliper or rebuild if required.
- Excessive corrosion or broken brackets — replace the mounting hardware.

Maintenance tips / longevity
- Lubricate pivot points and adjuster threads lightly with grease after adjustment.
- Keep cable routing clear of sharp edges or heat sources.
- Replace rubber boots/boots on caliper to keep moisture out.
- Inspect cables yearly on older cars and replace if any sign of fray or binding.

Final testing procedure (do this after any adjustment)
1. Reinstall wheels, lower car, torque wheel nuts to spec.
2. On level ground, chock front wheels, apply the handbrake fully and count clicks — target 4–7 clicks or manufacturer spec.
3. With handbrake applied, try rolling the car gently by hand or attempt to move slightly in gear — car should remain held.
4. Release handbrake; drive slowly and perform a few moderate stop/starts to ensure no drag and that rear brakes are functioning normally.
5. After a short drive, touch the rear wheels/rotors carefully (they CAN be hot); if one wheel is noticeably hotter you likely have uneven drag — recheck that side.

Quick troubleshooting cheat sheet
- Too many clicks + no hold: tighten adjuster; if adjuster run out of travel replace cable/pads.
- Very few clicks + drag: back off adjuster until drag gone.
- One wheel tight, one loose: equalize at equalizer or adjust calipers; inspect caliper pivots and cables.
- Lever won’t move or won’t lock: inspect lever internals (pawl/ratchet), return spring, cable end.

Parts you might need
- Replacement handbrake cable(s), equalizer, boots, retaining clips, caliper pivot hardware, pads/shoes.
- Service manual spec values and diagrams for exact R32 variant are helpful for locating components and torque specs.

Closing analogy
- Adjusting the parking brake is like tuning a pair of bicycle brakes tied together by a central knot: you must take equal slack out of both sides without pulling one so tight the wheel rubs. The equalizer is the knot that splits the single pull into two even tugs — balance is everything.

That covers what the system is, why it fails, every part you’ll touch, how to inspect and adjust using any of the common R32 layouts, and how to verify the job. Follow the safety steps and replace binding or frayed parts rather than forcing an adjustment.
rteeqp73

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