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Nissan X-Trail T-30 2001-2007 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Throttle-body / carb cleaner (non-chlorinated recommended) and small spray straw
- Soft-bristle brush or toothbrush, small brass or nylon pick
- Lint-free shop rags / paper towels
- Protective gloves and safety glasses
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, pliers
- 10 mm, 12 mm sockets + ratchet; extension
- Torque wrench (see note on torque below)
- Small plastic wedge or wooden popsicle stick (to gently hold throttle plate)
- Vacuum caps or bungies to plug any open vacuum/coolant ports
- New throttle body gasket (recommended), spare hose clamps
- Optional: small container for catching coolant if throttle has coolant lines
- Optional: OBD2 scan tool (to clear codes and run electronic throttle relearn if available)

Safety precautions
- Work in a well-ventilated area; throttle cleaner is flammable and toxic. No smoking/open flames.
- Engine and intake must be cool before starting.
- Wear gloves and eye protection.
- If the throttle body has coolant passages, be prepared to catch a small amount of coolant and plug lines quickly.
- Avoid spraying electrical connectors or MAF sensor directly. Cover connectors with a plastic bag if needed.
- Do not force the throttle plate or the throttle motor (on drive-by-wire units). Be gentle.

Before you start — identify the system
- Determine whether your X‑Trail T30 engine uses cable throttle or electronic (drive-by-wire). Visual check: cable if there’s a cable from pedal to throttle lever; electronic has a thick wiring connector and no cable.
- Procedure differs slightly: cable throttles are simpler to open and clean; electronic throttles require careful handling and an idle/ETC relearn after cleaning (use a scan tool or follow relearn steps).

Step-by-step cleaning (non‑removal, quickest & safest)
1. Park, set parking brake, open hood, let engine cool.
2. Disconnect negative battery only if you intend to remove throttle body and accept needing ECU relearn. If electronic throttle, it’s often better to leave battery connected and use relearn procedure after cleaning with battery connected or follow factory instructions. (See relearn below.)
3. Loosen and remove the air intake duct between airbox/MAF and throttle body. Unplug MAF sensor connector if it’s in the way — do not spray MAF.
4. Inspect throttle for carbon on both the front and back side of the throttle plate.
5. With engine OFF, manually open the throttle plate slightly:
- Cable throttle: depress throttle lever or have an assistant gently blip the throttle while you clean.
- Electronic throttle: gently hold plate open with a plastic wedge or use a gloved finger—do not pry hard or stress the motor.
6. Spray throttle-body cleaner on cloth (not directly into connectors or housing) and wipe edges of plate and bore. Use spray straw bursts onto heavy carbon spots, let solvent soak briefly, then scrub with toothbrush/pick and wipe until clean. Clean both sides of plate and inside bore up to intake runners.
7. Work carefully around the throttle stop and edges—don’t bend or damage the plate.
8. After cleaning, wipe dry, remove any debris, reassemble intake duct, reconnect MAF and any sensors.
9. Start engine and allow to idle. Expect a slightly elevated or unstable idle for a short time while ECU adjusts.

Removal method (for heavy carbon or to replace gasket)
1. Follow steps 1–3 above.
2. Label and disconnect electrical connectors (TPS, throttle motor) and vacuum hoses. Plug/cover connectors to keep cleaner out.
3. If throttle body has coolant lines, clamp or plug lines; catch spilled coolant.
4. Remove mounting bolts (typically 4). Support throttle body as you remove it.
5. Remove old gasket—scrape mating surfaces clean with care.
6. Spray and brush throttle body thoroughly (inside bore, backside of plate). Use the same technique but you have better access. Avoid soaking electrical parts.
7. Fit new gasket, reposition throttle body, loosely install bolts, then torque evenly to manufacturer spec — typical range for many Nissan throttle bolts is ~8–12 Nm (6–9 ft‑lbs). Check factory manual for exact spec.
8. Reconnect coolant lines, vacuum hoses, electrical connectors, intake duct.

How each tool is used
- Throttle-body cleaner: dissolves carbon. Use short bursts, let soak briefly, avoid oversaturating sensors.
- Brush/toothbrush: scrubs loosened carbon without gouging surfaces.
- Pick: removes stubborn deposits in corners; use gently.
- Rags: wipe away loosened deposits and solvent.
- Ratchet/socket: remove & install bolts.
- Torque wrench: torque bolts to spec to avoid warping or leaks.
- Plastic wedge: holds throttle plate open without stressing motor or linkage.
- OBD2 scan tool: read/clear codes and run electronic throttle relearn if available.

Relearn / clearing idle adaptation (electronic throttle)
- Best: use Nissan scan tool to perform throttle valve relearn.
- If no scan tool, a generic procedure that often works:
1. With everything reconnected and battery connected, turn ignition to ON (do not start) for 3 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds — repeat ON/OFF cycle 3 times.
2. Start engine and allow it to idle (no loads, AC off) until warm and idle stabilizes (several minutes). Cycle AC on/off a few times to let ECU adapt.
- If idle is unstable or CEL appears, clear codes with OBD2 and repeat relearn or use a scan tool.

Common pitfalls & what to avoid
- Using the wrong cleaner or getting solvent on MAF/TPS connectors — can damage sensors.
- Forcing or prying the throttle plate — can damage throttle motor/shaft and cause harsh idle or limp mode.
- Not replacing the throttle-gasket — causes vacuum leaks and poor idle.
- Over-tightening bolts — can warp throttle flange or strip threads. Use torque wrench.
- Leaving lint/rags inside intake — always verify airway is clear before starting.
- Forgetting to plug coolant lines — spills and air in cooling system.
- Disconnecting battery on drive-by-wire without performing proper relearn — may trigger CEL and improper idle.
- Not inspecting intake hoses and boots — cracked hoses create vacuum leaks even after throttle cleaning.
- Cleaning only the front of plate — most carbon is on the back side of the plate and inner bore; do both.

When to replace parts
- Replace throttle-body gasket every time the throttle is removed.
- Replace if throttle plate or bore is excessively worn, corroded, or the throttle motor/TPS fails electrically.
- Replace intake boots and clamps if cracked or loose.
- If cleaning does not restore idle or throttle response, the idle air control or throttle assembly may be failing and should be tested/replaced.

Final checks
- Reinstall everything, clear any stored codes with an OBD2 tool.
- Start engine, check for vacuum leaks, listen for rough idle or stumbling.
- Road test to confirm smooth throttle response.
- If CEL returns or idle problems persist, scan for fault codes and perform further diagnostics (TP sensor, throttle motor, MAF, vacuum leaks).

End.
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