- Safety first
- Park on level, firm ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels firmly.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep hands clear of pinch points when turning wheels or working under jacked vehicle.
- Use a proper jack and axle stands — never rely on the jack alone.

- Overview of what you will check
- Check toe (front wheels pointing slightly toward/away from each other), steering linkage play, wheel bearing endplay, and general condition of steering/kingpin components.
- Camber and caster on a TE‑20 are not easily adjustable; large errors usually mean worn parts (kingpins/steering arms/axle) or damage.

- Basic tools you need (descriptions and how to use them)
- Tape measure (steel, 5–8 m/16–25 ft)
- Use to measure distances between rim faces and compare front vs rear values for toe. Read at eye level and measure to the same point on each rim (bead seat, rim flange or a chalk mark).
- Long taut string (nylon or mason’s string, at least 6–8 m/20–26 ft)
- Run along the side of the tractor as a straight reference line. Keep string taut and parallel to tractor centerline to compare wheel positions fore/aft.
- Four wood or metal stakes / bricks / clamps (or C-clamps)
- Anchor the string at front and rear on both sides of tractor. Use clamps on rims or stakes in ground to hold string ends.
- Chalk or marker
- Mark exact measurement points on the rim (front and rear edges) so repeatable measurements are possible.
- Carpenter’s level (spirit level) and long straightedge or plank
- Check that tractor is level side-to-side and front-to-back; the string must be parallel to the ground. Place straightedge across rim face to check camber roughly (visual/gap).
- Wheel chocks
- Prevent tractor from rolling while measuring and adjusting.
- Hydraulic jack and axle stands (or heavy-duty bottle jack and stands)
- Lift wheel off ground to check wheel bearing play and to ease steering movement if required.
- Wrenches and spanners set (open/box-end and adjustable)
- Used to loosen and tighten tie rod locknuts, steering arm nuts, axle/hub nuts. TE‑20 uses imperial sizes; have a range.
- Socket set and breaker bar
- For stubborn fasteners; use correct sockets to avoid rounding nuts.
- Hammer and brass/soft mallet
- To free stuck link ends or to tap adjusting sleeves; use carefully.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) and wire brush
- Free rusted nuts/threads for adjustment.
- Torque wrench (recommended but optional)
- To tighten tie rod locknuts or hub nuts to proper torque if you have specs; otherwise snug per tractor practice and recheck.

- Extra/recommended tools (why they’re useful)
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (recommended)
- Measures wheel bearing endplay and runout precisely; helpful if you want correct bearing preload and accurate alignment checks.
- Plumb bob or laser level
- Faster, more accurate way to establish the tractor centerline and to check wheel toe relative to centerline.
- Caster/camber gauge (or digital inclinometer)
- If you suspect caster/camber problems and want to measure them; not strictly required for basic toe check.
- Replacement tie rod ends or steering ball joints on hand
- If linkage shows wear, immediately swapping rather than repeatedly adjusting saves time.

- Quick prep (what to do before measuring)
- Inflate tires to proper pressure and ensure tires are not damaged or unevenly worn.
- Ensure tractor is unloaded (no heavy implements attached) and the fuel/driver weight is consistent for measurements.
- Center the steering: sit in seat, rotate steering wheel until front wheels are visually straight, then lock steering if possible or clamp with straps to hold center.
- Put chocks on rear wheels and set parking brake.

- String method to check toe (simple, accurate for a beginner)
- Set stakes/clamps and run string along one side of the tractor parallel to the centerline. Use plumb bob or measure equal distances from frame at two points fore and aft to ensure string is parallel to tractor centerline.
- Repeat on the other side so you have two parallel strings roughly level with the wheel center.
- Mark on each rim two vertical points: one at the front face and one at the rear face at the same height (use chalk).
- Measure horizontal distance from front edge of left rim to left string and from rear edge of left rim to left string; do same on right side.
- Compute toe by comparing front vs rear distances for each wheel:
- If front measurement is smaller than rear, that wheel is toe‑in; if larger, toe‑out.
- Typical starting spec for small tractors like TE‑20: total toe‑in (difference between front edges of left and right wheels vs rear edges) about 1/8" to 1/4" (3–6 mm) total. If you prefer per wheel: about 1/16"–1/8" (1.5–3 mm) each. Use these as a simple target; exact factory specs are scarce for vintage tractors.
- Adjust until front and rear measurements produce the desired small toe‑in and wheels appear parallel to each other.

- How to adjust toe on a TE‑20 (tie rod adjustment)
- Locate the tie rod/adjusting sleeve between the two front spindles/steering arms.
- Loosen the locknuts on the adjustable sleeve or tie rod ends with appropriate spanners.
- Turn the tie rod sleeve to lengthen or shorten the effective tie rod:
- Shortening the rod moves the front of wheels closer together (more toe‑in).
- Lengthening moves the front farther apart (toe‑out).
- Make small adjustments, retighten locknuts, recheck measurements with the string and tape.
- After final adjustment, torque locknuts firmly and recheck alignment to ensure nothing shifted.

- How to check steering/kingpin/ball joint play and bearings (basic checks)
- Jack the front so the wheel is off the ground and supported on a stand.
- Grip the tire at 12 and 6 o’clock and rock in/out; any vertical play indicates wheel bearing endplay or hub looseness.
- Grip at 3 and 9 o’clock and rock left/right at top/bottom to detect lateral play in kingpin/steering bushings or tie rod ends.
- With wheel off, spin hub and listen/feel for rough bearings or grinding.
- If play is felt at the steering arm rather than hub, the tie rod end or steering arm bushing/kingpin may be worn.

- What worn parts look/feel like and why they matter
- Loose or sloppy feel in steering (excessive free play) — worn tie rod ends, steering arm bushings, kingpins or drag link.
- Excessive wheel endplay or rumble — worn wheel bearings or worn hub shims.
- Steering that pulls, wanders, or uneven tire wear despite proper toe — bent spindle, worn kingpin bushings, worn steering box or frame damage.
- Rusted or damaged threads — prevents accurate adjustment; replace damaged components.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- Tie rod ends / adjusting sleeve
- Why: worn ball/socket causes toe to change, steering slack. Replace if you see play or torn boots.
- Kingpins and kingpin bushings (steering kingpin)
- Why: TE‑20 uses kingpin-style steering; worn bushings/kingpins cause wander and uneven toe when loaded. Replacement corrects steering geometry.
- Wheel bearings and seals
- Why: worn bearings cause endplay and rim runout, creating misalignment and vibration.
- Steering drag link / idler arm / steering box components
- Why: heavy wear or looseness here shows as steering play independent of wheel alignment; worn internal steering box parts may require overhaul or replacement.
- Spindles or steering arms (if bent)
- Why: impact damage bends spindles/arms and can’t be fixed by adjustment; replacement needed to restore geometry.
- Hub shims / spacers
- Why: some dwellings require shims to set bearing preload; missing/worn shims cause play.

- How to decide between adjustment vs replacement
- If you can remove play by tightening or adjusting sleeve and measurements hold steady, no immediate replacement needed.
- If play returns quickly after tightening, or there is noticeable metal-to-metal wear, rough bearings, or torn boots, replace the worn components.
- If camber/caster is clearly off and steering components and axle are straight, suspect worn kingpin bushings or bent steering arm; replacement required.

- If you need to replace parts: basic guidance
- Obtain correct parts for TE‑20 (vintage parts suppliers, tractor salvage, MF spares). Cross‑reference part numbers where possible.
- Replace one side at a time if possible so you have a reference; measure and note original settings before removal.
- Clean and grease new joints/seals, torque fasteners to spec if available, and recheck alignment after installation.

- Final checks and tune-up
- After adjustments or replacements, road-test slowly and check for wandering, tire wear, and steering feel.
- Re‑check measurements after a short run; components can settle or rotate slightly.
- Grease all zerk fittings and re‑inspect after a few hours of use.

- Quick troubleshooting notes (common causes)
- Sudden change in tracking after bump/impact — likely bent spindle or steering arm.
- Slow drift to one side — often toe mismatch, uneven tire pressure, or worn steering link on one side.
- Hard steering with correct toe — check wheel bearings tightness, tie rod binding or incorrect preload.

- Final practical tip
- Work slowly, make small adjustments, document measurements before and after each change, and prioritize replacing worn parts over chasing alignment if components are sloppy.


rteeqp73

How to Adjust the Hydraulics on a Ferguson TE20 Tractor Hello Im Lance (aka Bundy Bear) and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I ...

1949 Ferguson TE20 Doesn't want to run One of my neighbours has an old Ferguson that's giving him fits. Lets help him out and see what's going on with it.

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Massey Ferguson - Wikipedia Massey Ferguson Limited is an American agricultural machinery manufacturer. The company was established in 1953 through the merger of farm equipment makers Massey-Harris of Canada and the Ferguson Company of the United Kingdom.It was based in Toronto, then Brantford, Ontario, Canada, until 1988.The company transferred its headquarters in 1991 to Buffalo, New York, U.S. before it was acquired ...

Ferguson-Brown Company - Wikipedia After the split with Ford, Ferguson took the opportunity to have the Standard Motor Company of the UK produce a new design, the Model TE20.The model name came from Tractor, England 20 horsepower (15 kW) but is affectionately known as the Little Grey Fergie.There were several variants of the TE20; the first tractors were designated TE20 Using an imported Continental Z120 engine.

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