Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: combination spanners, sockets and ratchet set, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (range to suit engine/gearbox bolts).
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack + blocks.
- Engine support or hoist (if separating gearbox from engine).
- Clutch/gearbox puller (long-jaw puller or plate puller) and pry bars.
- Clutch alignment tool (correct diameter for TE‑20 input shaft splines).
- Drift punches, soft-faced mallet.
- Feeler gauges and a straight edge.
- Dial indicator (for runout if available).
- Punch/reamer for pilot bush (or replacement pilot bush & installer).
- Gasket scraper, solvent/parts cleaner, wire brush.
- High-temp grease, thread locker (if specified), clean rags.
- Replacement parts/kit: multi‑plate clutch friction plates (set), driven plates, pressure plate springs (or spring pack), release/throw‑out bearing (or thrust washer set), pilot bush, gearbox input shaft seal(s), gaskets/bolts as required. Get an OEM or TE‑20 specific clutch kit and the workshop manual for torque specs.

Safety precautions (no exceptions)
- Work on level ground, chock wheels, engage park brake or remove wheels if required.
- Disconnect battery and tag wiring.
- Use a transmission jack or rated support when dropping gearbox; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone without stands.
- Wear eye/hand protection and steel-toe boots.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points when separating transmission.
- Clean up oil spills to avoid slips.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Preparation
- Park tractor, block wheels, remove battery negative lead.
- Drain gearbox oil into a clean pan (catch and dispose per local regs) so fluid spill is minimized when separating units.
- Refer to TE‑20 workshop manual for location of engine‑to‑gearbox bolts and any special instructions.

2. Remove external items and detach linkages
- Remove bonnet/side panels for access.
- Label and disconnect clutch linkages, PTO shaft or driveshaft from gearbox, throttle and choke linkages, starter motor electrical connectors if routing obstructs removal.
- Remove linkage return springs and note routing.

3. Support engine/gearbox and separate units
- Support the engine (or gearbox) with an engine hoist or suitable support.
- Place a transmission jack under the gearbox.
- Remove engine‑to‑gearbox bolts in a cross pattern; keep bolts and any packing shims together.
- Gently separate gearbox from engine. Use pry bars at designated lifting points; don’t lever on cast flanges. Move gearbox back slowly until input shaft clears clutch assembly—support gearbox weight fully with jack.

4. Remove clutch assembly
- With gearbox supported and removed, unbolt clutch pressure plate retaining nuts/bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern and remove.
- Carefully extract friction discs and driven plates one at a time, noting order and orientation. Photograph or mark stack order.
- Remove springs and pressure plate.
- Inspect clutch housing face, flywheel surface and plate faces for heat cracking, grooving, glazing or excessive wear.

5. Inspect and measure components
- Check friction plates for wear, glazing or burnt spots; measure thickness against new parts. Replace if worn or hardened.
- Inspect pressure plate and springs for distortion, broken springs or unevenness.
- Check release/throw‑out bearing for smoothness; replace if rough or worn.
- Inspect gearbox input shaft splines for wear or burrs; clean and light‑file if minor damage, replace shaft if badly damaged.
- Check pilot bush in engine crankback for excessive radial play; remove and replace if worn. If reaming/installing new bush, use correct reamer/installer to preserve concentricity.
- Check flywheel face for flatness with straight edge; dress or resurface if warped.

6. Replace worn parts
- Install new pilot bush if required. Clean thoroughly.
- Fit new seals/gaskets as needed.
- Replace friction plates/driven plates and spring pack as per kit.

7. Reassemble clutch
- Clean all mating surfaces with solvent; never use oily rags on friction surfaces.
- Stack plates in same sequence as removed (note orientation: many multi‑plate clutches alternate friction and steel plates; tabs must engage correctly). Use photos/notes.
- Use clutch alignment tool to position plates concentric to input shaft. Slide alignment tool through plates to hold them centered.
- Fit pressure plate and tighten retaining nuts by hand first, then torque gradually in a crisscross pattern to the workshop manual specification. Do this incrementally to avoid warping the plate.

8. Refit gearbox to engine
- Ensure input shaft splines align with the clutch stack and alignment tool is still in place.
- Carefully bring gearbox up on the transmission jack and slide it forward until it seats against the engine. Do not force it — if it binds, back off and re-check alignment and dowels.
- Reinstall engine‑to‑gearbox bolts, tighten in stages to the correct torque per manual.
- Remove alignment tool.

9. Reconnect linkages and finish assembly
- Reconnect clutch linkages, throttle, starter and PTO/driveshaft.
- Reinstall any panels, bonnet and other components removed.
- Refill gearbox with correct oil to specified level.
- Reconnect battery.

10. Adjustment and testing
- Adjust clutch free play/engagement per TE‑20 specification (usually measured at the pedal or linkage travel).
- Start engine, with brake on, test clutch engagement: lift pedal slowly, observe smooth engagement, no slipping or grabbing.
- Road test under light load first, then medium load; check for noise, judder, slip or overheating. Recheck gearbox oil and fasteners after initial run.

How each key tool is used (brief)
- Transmission jack/engine hoist: support heavy assemblies when separating and reinstalling; use adjustable saddle and strap gearbox securely.
- Clutch alignment tool: insert through clutch plates and into pilot bore so all discs are concentrically aligned to input shaft during tightening; remove before final assembly.
- Puller/press: use to remove pressure plate or any seized housing parts. Attach evenly and pull straight to avoid bending parts.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts in specified pattern and to manufacturer torque; prevents warping and ensures correct clamp load.
- Dial indicator/feeler gauges: check flywheel and pressure plate runout and plate thickness; ensure flatness and correct clearances.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing worn friction discs or springs — replace as a set to avoid premature failure.
- Incorrect plate orientation or order — mark stack when disassembling or photograph; wrong order can cause clutch failure.
- Not replacing pilot bush or release bearing — small play here causes poor engagement and rapid wear.
- Forcing gearbox onto input shaft — if it won’t slide home, do not hammer; recheck alignment, remove alignment tool only after bolts are partly threaded.
- Over/under torquing pressure plate bolts — use a torque wrench and manual specs to avoid warping or slippage.
- Contaminating friction surfaces with oil/grease — keep clean; replace plates if contaminated.
- Ignoring pilot bush concentricity — improper bush installation causes clutch chatter and rapid wear.
- Skipping adjustment and test run — properly set pedal free play and test under load before regular operation.

Replacement parts likely required
- Complete clutch friction plate/driven plate set.
- Pressure plate spring pack or individual springs.
- Release/throw‑out bearing or thrust bearing.
- Pilot bush / pilot bearing.
- Input shaft seal(s) and any gaskets.
- Fasteners if corroded or stretched, and any worn dowels.

Final notes
- Always use a TE‑20 workshop manual for exact part numbers, torque values and clearances.
- If in doubt about pilot bush replacement or gearbox separation, get assistance or a hydraulic press — improper installation causes major damage.

Done.
rteeqp73

1950s Massey Ferguson te20 running and driving round stourbridge ring road 2021!

Ferguson Tractor TE20 Horn and Dash Restoration https://www.facebook.com/DR-Tractors-1555160931445665/?fref=ts.

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