What the intake manifold does (theory, in plain terms)
- Role: It takes the air (or the air/fuel mixture from the carburetor on an older TE‑20) and distributes it to each cylinder’s intake port. Think of it like the intake “plumbing” or a traffic cop that directs airflow evenly to each cylinder.
- Why you repair/replace it: leaks or damage cause vacuum leaks, uneven mixture distribution, poor idle, loss of power, backfiring, poor fuel economy, and can allow coolant or oil contamination (if applicable) into intake passages. A warped or cracked manifold won’t seal; old gaskets fail and let outside air in.
- How the system works: air/fuel enters from the carburetor at the manifold flange. Internal passages carry the mixture to each head intake port. The manifold seals to the cylinder head with a gasket and is fastened by studs/bolts. Vacuum created by the pistons during intake draws the air/fuel through the manifold.

Main parts you’ll encounter (detailed)
- Carburetor flange (manifold inlet): where the carb mounts. May use a paper or cork gasket or a formed metal gasket.
- Manifold body: cast iron (usually) or steel with internal runners/ports. May have a stamped heat shield or cast passage.
- Intake runners/ports: the channels that lead to each cylinder intake port.
- Flange-to-head face (mating surface): the flat area that contacts the head with the gasket between.
- Gasket: paper, composite, metal or multi-layer gasket that seals manifold to head.
- Studs/bolts & nuts: fasteners that clamp the manifold to the head. Some engines use studs protruding from the head and nuts on the manifold; others use bolts.
- Heat riser/heat tube (if fitted): on older tractors there may be an exhaust-driven heat tube to warm the manifold or carb; includes small bolts and possibly a butterfly/valve.
- Linkages/vacuum fittings: throttle linkage, choke linkage, possibly vacuum advance or other lines.
- Coolant passage (if present): some intake manifolds have coolant passages; check for hoses and drain if so.
- Sealing surfaces and dowel pins: alignment features to ensure manifold sits correctly.

Symptoms that point to intake manifold problems
- Hissing or sucking sound at idle (vacuum leak).
- Rough idle, hunting, uneven idle speed.
- Backfiring through carburetor or intake.
- Loss of power, poor throttle response.
- Visible exhaust smell in air intake or cabin.
- Evidence of fuel/air mixture imbalance or misfires.
- Oil or coolant where it shouldn’t be (only if manifold design allows such cross-flow).

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchet, wrenches (including deep sockets for studs), screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (for correct final torque).
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster).
- Gasket scraper (plastic or brass to avoid scoring), wire brush, rags.
- New intake manifold gasket (correct to TE‑20 engine) and any carb-to-manifold gasket.
- Anti-seize or high-temp thread compound (light).
- Replacement studs/bolts/nuts if any are corroded or damaged.
- Shop light, container for small parts, catch pan for fuel/coolant.
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, fire extinguisher, good ventilation (you’ll be working around fuel).

Safety and prep (don’t skip)
- Work in a well-ventilated area. No smoking/open flames (fuel lines and carburetor present).
- Shut off fuel (or clamp fuel line) and plug/cap lines to avoid spills. Catch fuel in a container.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal to avoid sparks.
- If manifold contains coolant passages, drain the cooling system to below manifold level (catch and store coolant).
- Have shop manual/spec sheet handy for torque specs and bolt patterns.

Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly)
Note: always consult the TE‑20 service manual for exact torque values and specifics to your engine variant. The following is a safe general procedure.

1. Preparation and documentation
- Park on level ground, set brakes, remove key.
- Take pictures of throttle/choke linkages, vacuum lines, and how the carburetor mounts so reassembly is straightforward.
- Label linkages and hose locations with tape if needed.

2. Remove obstructing components
- Remove air cleaner and intake hose/duct.
- Disconnect throttle and choke linkages from the carburetor. Leave linkages connected to the throttle shaft if easier, but unhook any rods at the manifold.
- Shut off fuel petcock, then disconnect fuel line at carburetor. Plug or cap the line to avoid spills.
- Remove carburetor from manifold: unscrew carb mounting nuts/bolts, lift carb gently. Support it so fuel bowl does not spill.
- Remove any vacuum hoses, heat riser pipes, or sensors attached to the manifold.

3. Access and free the manifold fasteners
- Spray penetrating oil on nuts/studs and let soak for 10–15 minutes. On older tractors this helps prevent breaking studs.
- Remove nuts/bolts in a criss-cross pattern gradually. Don’t remove one side completely and leave others tight; loosen progressively to avoid warping.

4. Removing the manifold
- Support the manifold as you remove the last fasteners (manifold can be heavy/corroded in place).
- If manifold is stuck to the head, tap carefully with a soft-face mallet or use a pry between bolt holes (use wooden wedge or a brass bar to protect mating surfaces). Don’t force with excessive leverage that can crack the manifold or damage the head.
- Lift manifold straight off. Keep old gasket intact under it so you can see orientation/passage layout.

5. Inspect parts
- Inspect the manifold for cracks, especially around the flange and heat riser area. Check the runner passages for carbon build-up or blockages.
- Inspect gasket surface on the cylinder head for pitting, corrosion, or residual gasket material. Check the head mating face for warpage with a straightedge if you suspect leaking.
- Inspect studs: are threads clean and undamaged? If broken studs are present, they must be extracted and replaced (see “stuck or broken studs” below).
- Inspect carb mounting flange and the carburetor flange for damage.

6. Clean mating surfaces
- Remove old gasket material with a plastic or brass scraper—avoid gouging the head or manifold face.
- Clean with solvent to remove oil, carbon, and debris. Wire-brush bolt threads and clean studs.
- If surfaces are pitted/worn, light sanding with fine grit or a gasket-surface cleaner can help, but don’t remove metal excessively.

7. Prepare new gasket and manifold for reinstallation
- Use the correct new gasket. Generally don’t smear entire surface with sealant unless gasket manufacturer or manual instructs. A light dab of high-temp RTV at corners or around dowels may be recommended by some manuals—follow your TE‑20 manual.
- Apply anti-seize sparingly to stud threads (or use recommended thread compound). Don’t over-apply; oil can get squeezed into the gasket area.
- Replace any damaged studs/nuts with proper grade parts.

8. Reinstall manifold
- Align manifold with dowels or guide pins if present. Place gasket in correct orientation (refer to your pre-removal photos).
- Install nuts/bolts finger tight, tightening in an alternating criss-cross pattern progressively: snug all bolts, then torque to about half specification, then final torque in two steps. (Consult manual for exact ft-lb/Nm; typical older small engine intake bolts are low torque—example 15–30 ft-lb—BUT verify for TE‑20.)
- If studs are used, ensure nuts are torqued evenly.

9. Reattach carburetor and linkages
- Mount carburetor with a new carb-to-manifold gasket. Reconnect fuel line, choke, throttle linkages, and vacuum lines in original positions.
- Reinstall air cleaner and any heat riser tubes.
- Reconnect battery.

10. Start-up and testing
- Open fuel petcock (if you closed it), turn on key and prime fuel if needed.
- Start engine and listen for hissing at the manifold which indicates vacuum leaks.
- Check for coolant leaks (if applicable), fuel leaks, or exhaust smell.
- Let engine reach operating temperature, then recheck bolts for looseness. Some people retorque after a heat cycle; check manual recommendation.

Troubleshooting common problems and fixes
- Vacuum leak (hissing, rough idle): check gasket seating, bolt torque, warped face. Use a piece of hose near the seal while engine idling—if idle changes, you have vacuum leak.
- Broken studs: remove with bolt extractor/left-hand drill or remove head of stud with grinder and use easy out. Install new studs or helicoil if head threads damaged. If scared, a machine shop can help.
- Warped or cracked manifold: replace manifold. Small cracks can sometimes be welded (cast iron welding specialist), but replacement is safer.
- Stuck manifold: apply heat to stuck area, penetrating oil, and work gradually. Avoid excessive pry that damages surfaces.
- Carb misalignment or hard starting after reinstall: double-check linkage geometry and choke position; ensure gasket orientation is correct and no vacuum lines left disconnected.
- Persistent roughness after manifold work: check ignition timing, carburetor tuning, and valve adjustment—intake manifold work sometimes reveals other worn systems.

Tips and analogies for easy understanding
- Think of the gasket like a door seal—if it’s torn or compressed, outside air sneaks in and messes up the inside environment (fuel/air mixture).
- When removing bolts, loosen evenly like taking the lid off a pressure cooker—one side at a time will warp it.
- Keep a “bag of parts” and photos. Reassembly is just doing everything in reverse, but pictures prevent mistakes.

When to replace instead of repair
- Major cracks, heavily warped flange, or severe internal corrosion: replace manifold.
- Broken or damaged bolt holes in manifold: replace.
- If thread damage in head is extensive — consult machine shop for repair (helicoil or re-tapping).

Final notes (short)
- Always use the correct gasket and torque specs from the TE‑20 manual when available.
- Work methodically and keep parts organized.
- If faced with stuck or broken studs or warped surfaces you’re unsure about, a machinist or experienced tractor mechanic is a good next step.

That’s the complete beginner-friendly guide to inspecting, removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the TE‑20 intake manifold and what can go wrong.
rteeqp73

1948 Massey Ferguson T20 traktör #tractor

Massey Ferguson TE20, keep or sell for parts? #tractor #masseyferguson #te20

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