- Safety first
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fuel fumes.
- Shut off engine, remove key, and disconnect the battery negative terminal (prevents sparks).
- Stop fuel flow by clamping or pinching the fuel line or by closing any fuel tap; catch any fuel in a suitable container and wipe spills immediately.
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection, and avoid open flames; keep a rated fire extinguisher nearby.

- How the TE-20 “throttle body” term applies
- The TE-20 uses a carburetor (mechanical fuel/air mixer) rather than an electronic throttle body; cleaning steps below apply to the carburetor and its throttle plate/linkage.
- Before starting, visually identify the carburetor model (SU, Zenith, etc.) so you can buy a correct rebuild kit if required.

- Tools you need (basic set — detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Flat-head screwdriver and Phillips screwdriver
- Use the tip that fits the screw head snugly to avoid cam-out. Apply steady pressure and turn slowly; use the correct length to reach recessed screws.
- Socket set or combination wrench set (common SAE/metric sizes)
- Select the correct socket/wrench for nuts holding the carburetor and throttle linkage. A ratchet speeds removal; hold the bolt head with one tool and turn the nut with the other if space is tight.
- Pliers (needle-nose and regular slip-joint)
- Needle-nose pliers remove small clips, spring-type clamps and hold small parts. Regular pliers grip hoses and larger clips; protect soft metal with cloth if necessary.
- Adjustable wrench
- For miscellaneous fittings where a fixed-size wrench isn't available; open to fit snugly on the nut before turning.
- Small wire brush and brass brush
- Use to remove carbon and corrosion from metal surfaces and throttle plate. Brass is softer and less likely to gouge delicate parts.
- Carburetor cleaner spray (commercial aerosol)
- Solvent formulated to dissolve varnish, gum and carbon. Spray into passages, jets and on metal parts. Avoid extended soaking of rubber parts — they can swell/deteriorate.
- Small soft-bristled brushes (nylon toothbrush, pipe cleaner, small bottle brush)
- For scrubbing jets, passages and small cavities.
- Compressed air (can of compressed air or shop air with blow gun)
- Blow dried solvent and loosened debris out of passages and jets. Use short bursts and eye protection; do not direct air into sealed float bowl under pressure.
- Clean rags and lint-free cloths
- Wipe parts, soak up fuel, and keep work area clean.
- Small container or tray and labels/tape
- Keep screws and small parts organized and labeled so reassembly is correct.
- Gasket scraper or single-edge razor blade (careful)
- Remove old gasket material from mating surfaces. Use gently to avoid scratching manifold surfaces.
- Fuel-safe container to catch drained fuel
- For draining bowl fuel or catching spills.
- Carburetor rebuild kit (recommended)
- Contains gaskets, float needle/seat, O-rings, jets and other wear parts specific to your carb. Using the kit replaces perishable parts that are often the cause of problems.
- Feeler gauge or calipers (for float height measurement)
- Set and verify float height to manufacturer spec; calipers are handy for a simple measurement if you don’t have a gauge.
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
- Ensures bolts are tightened evenly and not overtightened; manual thread damage is possible without it.

- Extra/optional tools and why you might need them
- Ultrasonic cleaner (optional)
- Very effective for cleaning jets and tiny passages; not required but useful if heavy varnish present.
- Throttle shaft bushing tool or reamer (specialty)
- Needed only if throttle shaft wear is severe and bushings must be installed; many hobbyists send carb to a shop for this work.
- Replacement throttle shaft or carburetor exchange (if seized/worn beyond repair)
- Required when wear causes air leaks that cannot be corrected with new gaskets/bushings.

- Preparatory steps (what to do before you touch the carb)
- Clean the area around the carburetor so dirt won’t fall into openings.
- Photograph or clearly mark linkage positions, throttle choke positions, and hose connections — use tape and labels.
- Place a tray or cloth under the carb to catch dripping fuel and small parts.

- Removal (how to remove the carburetor safely)
- Shut fuel flow and remove or cap the fuel line; have the fuel container ready for any fuel that drains.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly and any ducting obstructing access.
- Disconnect throttle and choke linkages carefully, noting their routing.
- Unbolt the carburetor from the intake manifold using the correct socket/wrench; support the carb as you remove the last fastener to prevent dropping it.
- Detach any vacuum lines, tickler/flooding linkages or vacuum advance components and label them.

- Disassembly (what to take apart and how)
- Work on a clean bench with your small parts tray and labels.
- Remove the float bowl (usually held by screws); expect some fuel to be inside — drain into container.
- Carefully remove the float and pin; lift out the needle valve/seat — deposit these in your tray in order.
- Remove jets and idle/mixing screws (note how many turns out for later reference).
- Remove throttle plate if needed (some plates are riveted; do not drill rivets unless you plan to re-rivet or replace).
- Keep track of springs and tiny parts — photograph positions if unsure.

- Cleaning (what to clean and how)
- Spray carburetor cleaner into all passages, jets, and the float bowl interior; allow solvent to soak for a few minutes.
- Use small brushes and pipe cleaners to scrape and push debris out of tiny passages.
- Blow out all orifices, jets and passages with short bursts of compressed air from the side that will not force debris deeper into the passage; hold nozzle close but don’t over-pressurize small jets.
- Scrub carbon deposits from throttle plate and bore with the brass brush; remove gasket remnants from mating surfaces with the gasket scraper.
- Inspect the float for fuel inside (a leaky float will weigh more and may allow fuel inside) — discard suspect floats.
- Do not soak rubber parts (gaskets, O-rings) in strong solvent for long; replace if brittle or swollen.

- Inspection (what to check for wear or damage)
- Gaskets and O-rings: brittle, compressed, or fuel-soaked means replace.
- Float needle and seat: worn tip or seat pitting causes flooding — replace.
- Jets: clogged, corroded or visibly damaged jets need cleaning or replacement.
- Float: leaks or distorted float must be replaced.
- Throttle shaft and bore: if shaft side play or an ovalized bore exists, it can cause air leaks and poor idle — may need bushings or shaft replacement.
- Choke and throttle linkages: bent, corroded or stiff linkages should be cleaned or replaced.

- Reassembly (how to put it back together)
- Use new gaskets from the rebuild kit where applicable and lightly coat with a thin film of clean engine oil if needed to seat them.
- Reinstall needle/seat, float and set float height to the specification for your carb (use feeler gauge/calipers or kit instructions).
- Tighten screws evenly; do not overtighten plastic or soft-metal parts.
- Reinstall jets and idle mixture screws with the same seating depth you noted before removal, then fine-adjust later per engine run-up.
- Ensure throttle plate opens/closes smoothly without binding; reconnect linkages exactly as they were.
- Reinstall carburetor to the manifold with a clean gasket; tighten bolts evenly to a firm, snug fit (use torque wrench if available to avoid warping).

- Reconnection and first start checks
- Reconnect fuel line, clear any spilled fuel, reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Turn fuel on and inspect for leaks before starting.
- Start engine and observe for fuel leaks, smoke, or flooding smells; shut down immediately if you detect a leak.
- Adjust idle speed and mixture per manual or until smooth; small mixture screw adjustments can significantly change running—turn slowly and wait for response.
- Warm the engine and re-check for leaks and smooth throttle response.

- When replacement is required, why, and what to replace
- Replace gaskets and O-rings: inexpensive and nearly always needed — prevent vacuum and fuel leaks.
- Replace float needle and seat: when worn/pitted or if carb floods — a common cause of flooding.
- Replace float: if it holds fuel/water or is physically damaged — causes incorrect float level and flooding/starving.
- Replace jets and main nozzle if corroded or damaged — blockage or damage causes poor mixture and performance.
- Replace throttle shaft or fit new bushings if excessive shaft play allows intake air leaks — symptoms: unstable idle, poor throttle response, and high idle.
- Consider a full carburetor rebuild kit if the carb is old; the kit typically contains the above items and is the most reliable long-term fix.

- Troubleshooting quick notes (signs and likely causes)
- Engine floods (strong fuel smell, wet spark plugs): needle valve/float leaking or float height incorrect.
- Lean running (surging, poor acceleration): clogged jets or mixture passages, air leaks at gaskets/throttle shaft.
- Rough idle only until warm: clogged pilot/idle jets or incorrect mixture screw setting.
- Hissing/whistling at idle: vacuum leak from gasket or worn throttle shaft.

- Final tips and cautions
- Use the correct rebuild kit for your specific carb model — parts are not universal.
- If throttle shaft wear or severe corrosion is present, consider professional carburetor shop service or a replacement core — re-bushing and precise machining are often needed.
- Dispose of fuel-soaked rags and solvent per local regulations.
- Keep the air filter clean and well-maintained after reassembly — a dirty filter can reintroduce carbon and dirt to the carb.

- Quick parts checklist to buy if you want to be ready
- Carburetor rebuild kit for your carb model (gaskets, needle/seat, jets, O-rings)
- New float (if suspect) or float repair kit
- New air filter element
- Carburetor cleaner spray and compressed-air can
- Small brushes and replacement screws/gaskets if badly corroded

- No-standing questions — proceed when ready, follow safety steps, keep parts organized, and replace perishable items (gaskets/needles/floats) whenever practical to avoid repeat visits.
rteeqp73

Massey Ferguson TEA20 Tractor Part 3 - I set fire to the engine in dispare ! In this video i go back to France hoing to fix my tractor ! but there is no way that piston is going to move ! I even try setting fire to the ...

FERGUSON TE20 GREY FERGIE TED20 INSTRUCTION VIDEO www.catlowdycarriages.com FERGUSON TE20 GREY FERGIE TED20 INSTRUCTION VIDEO www.catlowdycarriages.com.

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Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: socket/ratchet set (deep & shallow), combination wrenches, breaker bar, adjustable spanner
- Torque wrench (suitable range for gearbox nuts)
- Screwdrivers, punch set, soft-faced hammer and ball-peen hammer
- Large bearing/gear puller or purpose-made output-flange puller (3‑arm or 2‑bolt puller with center screw)
- Slide hammer with adapter or hub puller (alternative to puller)
- Hydraulic press or arbor press (for pressing bearings / flange if required)
- Drift and drift holder for snap rings
- Snap‑ring pliers
- Bearing puller (internal/external) and bearing drivers / sleeves
- Heat source (propane torch / hot air gun) for freeing corroded parts
- Cleaning solvent, wire brush, rags
- Seal driver or suitable socket to install oil seals evenly
- Threadlocker (medium strength), anti-seize compound
- Replacement oil seal(s), flange nut/washer/lock (new if damaged or corroded), key(s), output flange (if damaged), bearings (if worn), gaskets or sealant
- Gearbox oil (correct type/grade for TE-20), oil drain pan
- Jack, axle stands or engine hoist, blocking timbers
- Safety gear: safety glasses, heavy gloves, hearing protection, work boots

Safety precautions
- Park tractor on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake or put in gear. Remove key / disconnect battery if fitted.
- Support tractor securely on axle stands or blocks before working under/around gearbox. Never rely on a jack only.
- Drain gearbox oil into a proper container before opening covers. Dispose/contain waste oil correctly.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and avoid loose clothing around rotating parts.
- When using heat, avoid open flames near oil/grease. Have a fire extinguisher handy.
- Use correct lifting equipment and don’t exceed rated capacities.

Overview of the job
- “Output flange repair” can mean: removing damaged flange to replace it, replacing the output shaft oil seal, replacing wheel/bearing components at the flange, or replacing worn bearings behind the flange. Proceed based on scope: simple seal/ flange replacement can often be done with gearbox in situ; bearings usually require gearbox removal or major support work and a press.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
1.1 Park tractor safely, chock wheels, put in gear. Disconnect battery.
1.2 Place drain pan under gearbox and remove drain plug. Drain oil.
1.3 Remove any components blocking access to the output flange: rear PTO shaft / prop shaft, brackets, linkages, brake pedals or guard plates as required. Keep fasteners labelled or in trays.

2) Expose flange and retainers
2.1 Clean the flange area so dirt won’t fall into the gearbox when opened.
2.2 Remove the center retaining nut/washer or circlip that retains the flange to the output shaft. Use the correct socket and breaker bar; use a holding tool on the shaft if necessary to prevent rotation (hand brake/engage gears if possible).
2.3 If a locking tab washer or cotter pin is present, straighten and remove it first.

3) Removing the flange
3.1 Thread the puller bolts into the tapped holes in the flange (if flange has tapped holes) or use a universal 3‑arm puller gripping the flange outer lip. Center the puller on the shaft.
3.2 Tighten the puller evenly. Use penetrating oil on the flange-shaft joint and work the puller in small increments.
3.3 If flange is corroded, apply even heat to the flange (avoid heating the shaft/bearing runs) to expand the flange. Heat only briefly and keep flames away from seals/paint/grease. Reapply penetrating oil and continue pulling.
3.4 If puller cannot get purchase, use a slide-hammer adapter bolted to the flange holes to give impact extraction rather than hammering directly on the flange or shaft.
3.5 Once flange breaks free, support it and withdraw gently to avoid damaging the shaft spline or key.

How the puller is used (practical tips)
- Use three evenly spaced bolts (or the puller’s jaws) and tighten the center screw slowly and evenly. Never strike the pulled center screw with a hammer — use the screw to draw the part.
- For slide-hammer: thread adaptor bolts into flange holes, attach slide hammer and give firm, controlled pulls. Avoid prying on the shaft shoulder.
- If using a press to remove the flange after gearbox removal, press on the flange hub (not on the thin lip) to avoid distortion.

4) Inspect shaft, key, and flange
4.1 Inspect the output shaft splines/shaft shoulder and the key for wear, burrs, or scoring. Replace the key if sheared or distorted.
4.2 Inspect flange mating face for cracks or damage. Replace flange if splines damaged or flange is bent.
4.3 Check output-shaft bearing(s) and oil seal condition. If bearings are noisy/worn or shaft journals damaged, plan bearing replacement (see below).

5) Replacing the oil seal only (in-situ)
5.1 Pry out the old seal carefully without damaging the bore. Clean bore thoroughly.
5.2 Lightly coat new seal lip with clean oil and drive it in square using a seal driver or suitable socket to the correct depth until flush where required.
5.3 Fit flange with key (if used) and secure with new washer/nut and locking device.

6) Replacing bearings (when required)
6.1 If bearings behind the flange are to be replaced, prepare to remove the gearbox or at least support it safely so you can access and remove the shaft or bearing housing.
6.2 Remove gearbox cover/side plate as per manual. Note bearing orientation and spacer/shim locations.
6.3 Use internal-extractor or press to remove bearings. Do not apply pull or press force on the bearing rollers; pull on the inner race or use correct extractor legs to engage the inner race.
6.4 Heat the new bearing (not above manufacturers’ recommended temp — moderate warm 80–120°C is typical) just enough to aid fit or use coldlash (freeze bearing) to ease pressing. Best is to press new bearings on with an arbor press and appropriate sleeve that presses on the inner race only.
6.5 Replace any worn shims/spacers. Reinstall circlips/snap rings to spec.
6.6 Check bearing preload / end‑play per manual. If shims or preload washers set axial play, adjust to factory spec.

7) Installing new flange or refitting old flange
7.1 Fit the key into the shaft keyway. Clean contact faces, apply very light oil.
7.2 Slide flange onto shaft aligning splines. If it is a press-fit, use an arbor press or threaded nut method to draw the flange on evenly:
- Use a hardened washer/pressure plate behind the nut to press uniformly on the flange shoulder.
- Tighten the nut slowly to pull flange square onto the shaft until seated.
7.3 If needed, use heat (careful) on flange for final fit. Do not overheat bearings or seals.
7.4 Fit new lock washer, nut, cotter pin, or circlip as originally found. Use threadlocker on bolts where appropriate.
7.5 Torque the retaining nut to factory specification (consult TE-20 service manual). If manual is not available, torque moderately and check flange axial play; avoid over-torquing which can preload bearings incorrectly.

8) Reassembly and refill
8.1 Reinstall any removed covers, linkages, guards, or shafts.
8.2 Clean up spilled oil, ensure all plugs are tightened and drain plug installed.
8.3 Refill gearbox with the correct grade and quantity of oil.
8.4 Reconnect battery if disconnected.

9) Test
9.1 Rotate drive through by hand first to check smoothness and that there is no binding or unusual play.
9.2 Start tractor and run at idle; check for leaks around flange and seal. Cycle through gears at low speed checking for noises.
9.3 Road/field test under light load and re-check torque on flange nut after initial run (some re-check recommended after short run).

Replacement parts typically required
- Output flange (if damaged or splines worn)
- Key and key(s)
- Flange retaining nut/washer/lock (replace if deformed)
- Oil seal(s)
- Bearings (if worn)
- New bolts/studs (if corroded) and threadlocker
- Gaskets or RTV where applicable
- Gearbox oil

Common pitfalls / mistakes to avoid
- Trying to hammer the flange off without puller — destroys splines and shaft shoulders.
- Using the wrong type of puller or pulling on the thin lip of the flange — leads to flange distortion.
- Overheating flange/bearing area with torch — damages seals, grease, and hardens/damages bearing surfaces.
- Pressing new bearing on by hitting the outer race (or inner race incorrectly) — can brinnell rollers and destroy bearing.
- Reusing worn keys, nuts, or lock washers — small parts fail and ruin repair.
- Over/under-torquing the retaining nut — causes bearing preload/endplay issues and premature bearing failure. Always confirm torque/endplay with the manual.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces or letting dirt into gearbox during disassembly — leads to premature wear.
- Not supporting gearbox properly when removing components — severe injury risk; also results in misalignment on reassembly.
- Assuming seal leak means only seal fault; often flange runout or shaft damage causes seal failure — inspect shaft and flange runout.

Final notes
- When in doubt on torque settings, shim thickness, or bearing preload, consult a Massey Ferguson TE-20 workshop manual or parts manual for exact specifications.
- If flange splines or shaft journals are visibly scored or warped, replacing the flange or shaft/bearing components is the correct action — do not attempt to “file” splines.
- Use correct quality replacement parts (sealed bearings, correct types of oil seals) to ensure long life.

End.
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