Tools & parts you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers, combination wrenches, pliers.
- Multimeter (DC volts, continuity).
- Test light (12V or 6V depending on system).
- Battery charger or jump box and battery terminal brush/cleaner.
- Wire strippers/crimper, heat shrink or electrical tape, small soldering iron (optional).
- Replacement bulbs for dash lamp(s) and bulb holders.
- Spare fuses (if fitted) and spare lengths of wiring, terminals.
- Spare battery (or known-good battery) for cross-check.
- Mechanical oil-pressure gauge and adapter (for oil-pressure lamp diagnosis).
- Safety gear: eye protection, insulated gloves, hearing protection if running engine.

Safety first
- Work on a flat, stable surface; tractor in park/neutral with parking brake engaged.
- Stop engine, remove key, and disconnect battery negative before doing wiring work.
- Allow hot engine/exhaust parts to cool before touching.
- Keep loose clothing, hair, and tools away from moving parts when engine runs.
- Use insulated tools when working on live circuits. Prevent sparks near fuel or battery gases.
- If lifting tractor, use proper stands — don’t rely on jacks alone.

Quick note on vintage TE-20 electrics
- The TE-20 is a vintage tractor with simple warning lamps (usually charging/ammeter lamp or oil pressure warning). There’s no electronic “ECU” check-engine system. First step is to identify which lamp is illuminated and its intended function (consult the operator/service manual or wiring diagram).

Step-by-step diagnostic (order matters)

1) Identify the lamp and behavior
- With key off, note which lamp is lit (charging/GEN, oil/STOP, etc.). Turn key to ON (engine off) and observe lamp:
- Charging lamp (GEN/ALT/CH): normally lights with key ON, engine off, and goes out once engine runs and generator/alternator is charging.
- Oil-pressure lamp: normally lights with key ON, goes out within a few seconds after engine starts (pressure builds).
- If the lamp stays on or comes on while running, follow the appropriate branch below.

2) Visual inspection (always do first)
- Check bulb: remove dash lamp, inspect filament and socket for corrosion. Replace bulb if blackened or broken.
- Inspect wiring: look for frayed insulation, loose connectors, corroded terminals, poor grounds.
- Battery terminals: clean and tighten. Bad battery connections commonly cause warning lamps.
- Fuse(s): check and replace blown fuse if present.

How to use the test light and multimeter here:
- Test light: clip to battery negative, probe the bulb feed with key ON to confirm feed voltage reaches bulb holder.
- Multimeter: set to DC volts. Measure battery voltage at terminals (engine off). A healthy charged 12V battery should be ~12.4–12.8V (6V roughly half). This tells you battery state before charging tests.

3) Charging-system lamp stays on while engine runs — test charging system
- Procedure:
a) Start engine and run at ~1500–2000 rpm (hold safely, consider chocking wheels).
b) With multimeter across battery terminals, read voltage. Expected:
- 12V system: roughly 13.5–14.8 V when charging.
- 6V system: roughly 7.5–8.5 V when charging.
(If you don’t know system voltage, measure battery first.)
c) If voltage is at or above expected, the charging system is working — lamp wiring or bulb/switch may be faulty.
d) If voltage is low (near battery resting voltage) and lamp stays on, the generator/alternator or regulator is likely faulty.
- Additional generator tests:
- With key ON, engine off, use test light between generator field terminal and ground to see if field is getting excitation.
- Check regulator connections and ground. For generators with external regulator, test regulator using service procedure or substitute known-good regulator.
- Replacement parts typically: regulator, rectifier (if alternator), brushes (on some dynamos), generator rebuild kit, or alternator replacement.

Common pitfalls for charging test
- Running test with large accessory loads (lights, heater) can mask charging output — turn accessories off.
- Loose ground or corroded cable gives false low-voltage readings.
- Mistaking a burned-out bulb for a charging fault — always physically check the bulb.

4) Oil-pressure lamp stays on — test oil pressure
- First checks:
- Check oil level and quality; top to correct level if low.
- With engine running, watch lamp — if it never extinguishes, proceed.
- Mechanical gauge test (recommended on vintage tractors):
a) Locate oil pressure sender/switch and remove it (engine off).
b) Install mechanical oil-pressure gauge using appropriate adapter.
c) Start engine and read pressure at idle and higher rpm. Compare to manual specs (if unknown, typical small petrol engines should show rising pressure from near-zero cranking to positive pressure once running — lamp should extinguish quickly).
- If mechanical gauge shows good pressure but lamp stays on, the oil-pressure switch/sender or wiring is at fault — replace sender/switch and check lamp circuit.
- If mechanical gauge shows low pressure, investigate oil pump, bearing wear, clogged pickup, or wrong oil viscosity. Repairing these can require engine work (pump rebuild, bearings, etc).

Common pitfalls for oil-pressure diagnosis
- Don’t drive with suspected low oil pressure — risk catastrophic engine damage.
- Some warning lamps are grounded type: if lamp circuit ground is lost, lamp may behave oddly.
- Don’t rely solely on the dash lamp; confirm with a mechanical gauge.

5) Ignition/charging related lamp quirks on TE-20
- On TE-20s with dynamo/coil-type ignition, weak coil or poor points can cause misfires but won’t trigger a “check engine” lamp. Lamp behavior tied to charging or oil pressure only.
- If you find arcing at generator or ground issues, repair wiring, replace old insulation and terminals.

How to replace common parts & how tools are used
- Bulb replacement: remove bezel, pull out bulb, insert correct replacement rated for system voltage. Test with key ON before reassembly.
- Battery cleaning: use battery brush & baking soda/water to clean corrosion, tighten clamps. Charger can bring battery up to testable state.
- Multimeter: measure battery open-circuit voltage (engine off), measure charging voltage (engine running), check continuity across wires, measure voltage drop across suspect connections while under load.
- Test light: quick check for presence of voltage to lamp holders, fuses, regulator feed. Clip to negative, probe positive side; light indicates presence of voltage.
- Oil-pressure gauge: screw into sender port, start engine and read psi. If psi is fine, replace warning switch.
- Replacing regulator/generator: disconnect battery negative, unbolt wiring and unit, install new/rebuilt component per service manual. Adjust/regulate per factory procedure (some generators need brush/regulator adjustments).

When replacement is required
- Bulb or lamp holder: replace if burned/corroded.
- Wiring/terminals: replace if corroded or damaged.
- Battery: replace if it won’t hold a charge or fails load test.
- Voltage regulator, rectifier, or generator/alternator: replace or rebuild if charging voltage is abnormal or no excitation present.
- Oil-pressure sender/switch: replace if verified bad by mechanical gauge comparing to lamp behavior.
- Oil pump/engine repairs: required if mechanical gauge shows persistently low pressure.

Final checks and re-test
- After repairs, reconnect battery negative, start engine, and verify normal lamp behavior: lamp on with key ON, engine off, then goes out within seconds after starting (or goes out once engine is running and charging).
- Verify charging voltage under load (headlights on) to ensure regulator response.
- Road/test at safe location and re-check after a short run for heat-related faults.

Common pitfalls to avoid (summary)
- Assuming a dash lamp equals ECU fault — TE-20 has simple circuits; identify exact lamp function first.
- Testing only with a dead/low battery (misleads charging test).
- Neglecting ground and cable condition — often the real cause.
- Using the wrong-voltage replacement bulbs or parts (6V vs 12V).
- Running the engine without verifying oil pressure if concerned — don’t risk engine damage.
- Working on live circuits without disconnecting battery when replacing components.

That’s the practical sequence: identify lamp function, visually inspect bulb and wiring, test battery and charging system with a multimeter, use a mechanical oil-pressure gauge for oil-warning faults, and replace the specific faulty component (bulb, wiring, regulator, sender, or generator) as indicated.
rteeqp73

Ferguson Tractor TE20 Horn and Dash Restoration https://www.facebook.com/DR-Tractors-1555160931445665/?fref=ts.

How to Rebuild (Assemble) a Ferguson TE20 Tractor (fergy,fergie) in under 10 Minutes A Demonstration by the Inishowen Tractor Build Team at the James McCaffrey Memorial Classic/Vintage Show and Run, held at ...

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