Tools & parts
- Tools: set of open/box wrenches (8–19 mm), socket set, screwdrivers (flat & Phillips), needle-nose pliers, locking pliers (Vise-Grips), small hammer, punch, wire cutters, penetrating oil, rag, grease gun or cable lube syringe, torque wrench (optional), jack & stands (if needed), safety glasses, gloves.
- Parts & consumables: replacement shift cable assembly (correct TE‑20/serial‑specific cable), new rubber grommets/bushings, new retaining clips/cotter pins, cable clamps/zip-ties, light grease/cable lube, anti-seize or thread locker (blue).
- Optional: replacement shift-lever bushings if worn.

Safety first
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Stop engine and remove ignition key. Disconnect battery negative if you’ll be working near electricals or likely to hit starter.
- If raising tractor, use jack stands rated for the weight—never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Use penetrating oil and heat only in well-ventilated areas.

Procedure — step-by-step
1) Familiarize & document
- Note cable routing and take photos. Mark housing position relative to brackets and ends; you must route the new cable identically to avoid binding.

2) Gain access
- Remove any floorboard/top cover or shifter surround to expose the inside end of the cable at the gear lever.
- Remove any transmission inspection covers that block access to the outer end on the gearbox side.

3) Secure the tractor & release tension
- Put the transmission in neutral and park brake on.
- If the cable has an adjustable locknut at either end, back it off to release tension.

4) Disconnect cable at the shifter (inside)
- Use needle-nose pliers to remove retaining clip or cotter pin at the shift lever end. If the end is corroded, soak with penetrating oil and tap the clip out with punch and hammer.
- Withdraw the inner cable end from the lever linkage. Note position of any washers/spacers.

5) Remove clamps, grommets & route stops
- Follow the cable along the frame and remove clamps/straps securing the housing. Use penetrating oil on seized clamp bolts, then remove.
- Pull the housing out of the rubber grommet in the floor/transmission tunnel. Keep any foam or seal material to replace.

6) Disconnect at transmission linkage
- At the trans end, remove retaining clip/bolt/pin that attaches the cable inner to the selector fork or lever. Keep track of washers and spacers.
- Pull the inner cable out of the housing and remove the whole assembly.

7) Inspect related parts
- Inspect shifter lever bushings, gearbox linkage, and grommet hole for wear or sharp edges. Replace worn bushings and damaged grommets — failure here causes premature cable wear and binding.

8) Prepare the new cable
- Lay the new cable out and compare length and end fittings with the old one to confirm match.
- Grease the inner wire lightly with cable lube or a light grease recommended for cable use. Do not over-lubricate (excess attracts dirt).

9) Install new cable — routing & mounting
- Route the new cable housing exactly like the old one. Push the housing through the rubber grommet and seat it properly.
- Secure the housing to the frame using the same clamps/straps and new fasteners if required. Leave final clamp tightness loose enough for small alignment adjustments.

10) Attach at transmission
- Insert inner cable into trans lever/selector and secure with the proper retaining pin/clip/bolt and washer(s). Ensure the inner end seats in its slot and moves the selector without binding.
- If the trans end uses a threaded adjuster, set it mid-range for initial adjustment.

11) Attach at shifter
- Connect the inner cable end into the shift lever linkage. Replace clip/cotter pin.
- Reinstall any floorboard or covers around the shifter.

12) Adjust free play & center neutral
- With the tractor still off, shift through all gears. Adjust the cable by moving the housing relative to the inner cable (or using the threaded adjuster) so the gearbox is in true neutral when the shift lever is centered.
- Goal: minimal free play but no binding — the lever should move through detents smoothly and select each gear cleanly.

13) Final tightening & lubrication
- Tighten all clamps so the housing is secure and cannot move under load, but not so tight that the housing is crushed.
- Apply final grease/lubricant where inner wire exits the housing ends and at pivot points.
- Replace any seals/grommets and make sure the cable does not rub on sharp edges or hot components (exhaust).

14) Test
- With engine off: cycle the shifter through all gears and confirm the gearbox engages each gear (feel detents, observe engagement of selector).
- Start engine and, in a safe open area, test drive under light load. Verify smooth gear changes and that neutral is true. Recheck adjusters and tighten clamps after test run.

How specific tools are used (quick)
- Needle-nose pliers: remove/install cotter pins and retaining clips.
- Screwdrivers/punch/hammer: assist in prying out clips and driving pins.
- Socket/wrench set: remove clamps, inspection covers, and retaining bolts.
- Penetrating oil: loosen seized clips/bolts.
- Grease gun/lube syringe: apply lubricant to inner cable for smooth operation.
- Vise-Grips: hold stubborn cable housing during removal if corroded.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong routing causing binding: always route identical to the original; secure away from hot/exhaust and sharp edges.
- Not replacing worn grommets/bushings: cheap to replace and prevent cable wear and vibration.
- Over-tightening clamps: crushes the housing and binds the inner wire — clamp snug but not crushing.
- Wrong cable length or end fittings: confirm new cable exactly matches old one before installation.
- Insufficient lubrication: makes shifting harsh; too much lubrication (or grease that attracts dirt) will gunk up — use recommended cable lube sparingly.
- Failing to properly adjust neutral/free-play: leads to incorrect gear engagement and premature wear.
- Reusing corroded clips/pins: always fit new retaining clips/cotter pins when available.

Replacement parts required
- New TE‑20 shift cable assembly (match by tractor serial/model).
- Rubber grommets and any worn bushings at shifter pivot and trans end.
- New retaining clips/cotter pins and cable clamps.
- Light grease/cable lube.

Final notes
- If the gearbox feels like it’s binding internally after cable replacement, stop and recheck neutral adjustment and linkage connections before continuing.
- Keep the removed old cable until the new cable proves reliable in a test drive — it’s a reference if you need to confirm routing or fittings.

Done.
rteeqp73

Vintage Massey Ferguson te20 collection News Report - 2nd Clip A news report about a vintage Massey Ferguson collection owned by Mark Popplewell in Lincolnshire.

Oil change on a TEA20's gear box The oil I used in this video was GULF WESTERN OIL FARMOIL STOU 15W-40 Not Sponsored.

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