Tools & supplies
- 2–3 ton hydraulic jack or heavy trolley jack (rated for tractor weight)
- Quality jack stands or axle stands (rated ≥ tractor axle load)
- Wheel chocks (blocks for both front and rear)
- Breaker bar and correct-size socket for wheel nuts
- Torque wrench (sufficient range for wheel nuts)
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer; brass/copper drift if needed
- Wheel puller (for stuck wheels) or pry bars and wedges
- Wire brush, rags, solvent
- High‑temp wheel bearing grease
- New wheel nuts, studs, cotter pins (if used), seals, bearings, valve stems as required
- Gloves, safety glasses, steel‑toe boots

Safety precautions (must-follow)
1. Work on firm, level ground. Set transmission in gear and chock wheels that remain on the ground.
2. Shut off engine and remove key. Allow hot parts to cool.
3. Loosen wheel nuts slightly while wheel is on the ground (do not remove).
4. Use a jack rated for the tractor and place stands under axle housing or beam — never under thin sheet metal or oil pan. Support the tractor securely before removing wheels.
5. Never get under the tractor supported only by a jack.
6. Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep bystanders clear.

Decide rotation pattern
- TE-20 front and rear wheel diameters and rims are usually different. Do NOT swap front and rear unless rims/tires are identical and hubs compatible.
- Typical safe rotation: swap left and right wheels on each axle (L↔R). If tires are directional, maintain rotation direction (do not flip direction-facing tires).
- If you have identical rims/tires front-to-rear and intend to swap positions, confirm hub offsets and brake/clearance fit first.

Step‑by‑step: basic wheel rotation (left‑right on same axle)
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake or in gear, shut engine off, chock wheels.
2. Slightly loosen the wheel nuts on the wheel(s) you’ll lift (break the initial torque).
3. Position jack under axle near the wheel; raise tractor until wheel clears the ground.
4. Place jack stand under axle housing and lower tractor onto the stand. Repeat for other side if rotating both wheels sequentially.
5. Remove wheel nuts and lift wheel off hub. Inspect wheel, lug nuts, studs for damage or rust.
6. Clean mating surfaces on hub and wheel with wire brush and solvent. Remove corrosion or dirt.
7. Transfer wheels to opposite side. Align hole pattern, slide wheel fully onto studs.
8. Hand-thread nuts, snug in a star pattern. Lower tractor off stand, tighten nuts in star pattern to final torque with torque wrench.
9. Re-torque all wheel nuts after 10–20 operating hours (or ~50 miles) and again after first 100 hours. Check periodically.

How to use the tools (quick)
- Breaker bar: apply to loosen stubborn nuts. Use steady pressure, not sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench: tighten nuts in star pattern to specified torque. Set torque, pull handle until it clicks.
- Jack & stands: lift until clearance, then place stands and lower gently onto stands.
- Wheel puller: attach to rim/hub per tool instructions, tighten central forcing screw to press wheel off hub evenly.

Removing a stuck wheel
1. Apply penetrating oil around hub and studs; allow soak time (15–30 min).
2. Try rubber mallet strikes to the face of the wheel to break corrosion bond. Strike between studs, not on valve stem or tire.
3. If still stuck, use a wheel puller or wedge blocks between hub and wheel while prying evenly off. Protect wheel finish and hub.
4. If a hub-to-wheel key or taper is present, ensure you use tool to pull straight — prying can damage studs or flange.

If you open the hub (bearings/seals)
- Only do this if you intend to service bearings. Required parts: inner/outer tapered bearings and races (if worn), oil seal(s), new cotter pins or locking hardware.
- Procedure summary:
1. Remove hub/cover and slide hub off spindle.
2. Remove bearings, clean parts, inspect races for pitting or scoring.
3. Replace any damaged bearings or races. Always replace seals when hub is off.
4. Repack bearings with clean wheel bearing grease (pack through bearing until grease emerges from the other side).
5. Slide inner bearing and hub on spindle, install outer bearing, then grease cap or seal.
6. Set bearing preload per manual: tighten the spindle nut to seat bearings, back off to the specified end-play, then secure nut with locknut/cotter pin or dedicated retainer.
7. Replace grease cap, re-install wheel, torque nuts.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Wheel nuts (if rounded/corroded)
- Wheel studs (if damaged)
- Valve stems or inner tubes (if applicable)
- Wheel bearings and races (if noisy, rough or pitted)
- Oil/seal rings for hub
- New cotter pins or locking devices
- Wheel hub grease

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not chocking wheels or supporting tractor properly — always chock and use stands.
- Loosening nuts after jacking — always break lug nut torque while wheel is on the ground.
- Using impact gun only — always finish with a torque wrench to specified torque.
- Over‑ or under‑torquing wheel nuts — follow spec; if unsure, tighten to a conservative industry range and re‑check after short run.
- Forcing a stuck wheel and rounding off studs — use penetrating oil, puller, and heat if necessary; replace studs that are damaged.
- Swapping front/rear without verifying sizes and offsets — can cause steering problems or interferences.
- Ignoring bearing inspection — if you remove a hub and bearings feel rough or show play, replace and set correct preload.

Torque guidance and re-checks
- Use the tractor service manual for exact wheel nut torque and bearing preload values. If manual unavailable, torque counts for heavy tractor wheel nuts commonly run high (consult a reputable source). Always re-torque after the first short run (10–20 hours or ~50 miles) and periodically thereafter.

Final notes
- If you’re not experienced with bearing preload, hub disassembly, or wheel pullers, perform only left/right wheel swaps and have a shop do hub service.
- Keep a simple record of tire pressures, rotation date, and any parts replaced.

Done.
rteeqp73

Ferguson Te20 1952 Reduction Gearbox

Ferguson TE20 Compression Test Today is a follow on from yesterday's video. Here I check the quality of the spark and do a compression test. I buy my service parts ...

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