Tools & consumables needed
- Basic hand tools: metric/imperial socket set (6–32mm / 1/4–1¼" range as tractor may use Whitworth/SAE), combination wrenches, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (suitable range to ~300 ft·lb or nearest lower/higher for larger bolts).
- Ball joint/tie‑rod separator (pickle fork) or puller; long drift punch and heavy hammer.
- Jack (hydraulic trolley or floor jack rated >1 ton) and sturdy jack stands or axle stands; blocking/chocks.
- Pry bar, large screwdriver.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar), wire brush, rags.
- Hammer, brass drift or soft-face mallet.
- Bench vise or hydraulic press (for replacing pressed-in bushings).
- Punch and pliers for cotter pins; new cotter pins.
- Grease gun and appropriate grease.
- Heat source (propane torch) if nut/bolt is seized — use carefully.
- Replacement parts: new control arm(s) or rebuilt assembly, new bushings (rubber or polyurethane), new pivot bolt/kingpin/large nuts/washers, new grease nipple(s) if needed, new cotter pins, any shims if used.
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots.

Safety precautions (do these first)
1. Work on a flat, level surface. Engage park/handbrake. Chock rear wheels solidly.
2. Disconnect the battery (prevent accidental starter/engine movement).
3. Jack the front only with correct points, then support on two properly rated jack stands under the frame (never rely on the jack alone). If supporting the axle, also have a secondary support under the frame.
4. Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep bystanders clear.
5. If heating bolts, avoid fuel lines, rubber, and paint; have a fire extinguisher handy.

Step-by-step procedure (generic TE‑20 style radius/control arm replacement)
Note: On a TE‑20 the “control arm” is often the radius rod/steering arm assembly that locates the front axle. Steps below cover removing the arm, replacing bushings/arm, and reassembly.

1. Preparation
- Park tractor with wheels chocked. Lower engine; set fuel shutoff off if necessary.
- Jack up front end slightly so there’s no load on the front wheel you’ll be working on. Place jack stands under the frame (not under axle webbing) and lower the tractor onto the stands. Put a second support under the axle or beam as a precaution.
- Remove the wheel on the side you’re working on (makes access easier).

2. Inspect and apply penetrating oil
- Spray penetrating oil onto the pivot bolt/nut, ball joint/tie-rod ends, and any cotter pins. Let soak 10–20 minutes.

3. Remove steering/tie-rod connections
- Remove cotter pins from any castle nuts on the steering drop arm or tie-rod end; back off the nut a few turns but leave it threaded to protect the tapered stud.
- Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork between the tapered stud and its socket and strike with a hammer to separate. If stuck, strike the steering arm near the joint once to jolt it free. Be ready to catch the stud and prevent the wheel turning.

4. Support the control arm and remove pivot fastener
- Place a floor jack or block under the arm to support it.
- Loosen and remove the pivot bolt(s)/nut(s) that secure the control arm to the axle/frame pivot. On TE‑20 this may be a large through bolt or kingpin; you may need a breaker bar. If the bolt is seized, apply more penetrating oil and tap the bolt head with a hammer to break corrosion. If still seized, heat the nut (not the bolt thread) to expand then reapply penetrating oil.
- With the pivot nut removed, drive out the pivot bolt/shaft using a drift/punch and hammer, supporting the arm so it doesn’t fall.

5. Remove the control arm
- Lower the jack supporting the arm and remove the arm. Inspect mating surfaces, pivot housing, washers, and any shims. Clean thoroughly with a wire brush and rag.

6. Decide: replace entire arm or rebuild bushings
- If the arm is bent, cracked, or the ball joint boss is worn, replace the whole arm.
- If the arm body is sound but bushings are worn, remove pressed-in bushings in a press or bench vise with a bushing driver. Use heat sparingly to ease removal. Install new bushings using a press or driver—press them straight and to correct depth. Use new grease nipples if present.

How to use specific tools
- Pickle fork/ball joint separator: wedge between ball-stud taper and socket; strike with a hammer. Protect adjacent surfaces from gouging; be prepared to replace the rubber boot.
- Drift/punch: drive out pivot shaft; place a drift on the bolt end and strike with a hammer while the arm is supported.
- Hydraulic press/bench vise: press out old bushings squarely; use driver sized to the bushing outer race to avoid damaging arm. Press new bushings in until seated; keep alignment straight.
- Torque wrench: final tighten of pivot bolt and steering nuts to factory specification. If factory spec unavailable, tighten so bushings can rotate slightly under load but not have free play—use a sensible engineering judgement and check after test run.

7. Reinstall control arm
- Position new/rebuilt arm into the pivot housing and insert new pivot bolt/shaft. Fit any shims or washers in the same order as removed.
- Hand-thread nut then torque to spec. If you don’t have the TE‑20 spec: for large axle pivot bolts typical for this era, torque is commonly in the 150–250 ft·lb range depending on bolt size — consult manual. If unsure, tighten until there is no vertical play but the arm moves smoothly through its range; lock the nut with a cotter pin if castle nut used.
- Reattach steering/tie-rod/ball joint. Tighten nut to spec, align cotter pin hole with slot, insert new cotter pin and bend ends.

8. Grease and final adjustments
- Pump grease into new grease nipples until grease flows from the joint seals.
- Refit wheel and torque wheel nuts.
- Lower tractor off stands, remove chocks only after lowering.

9. Test & fine tune
- With engine off, move steering through full lock and watch for binding or unusual play.
- Drive slowly and check for noise, looseness, or wandering. Re-torque all fasteners after first few hours of operation.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Seized bolts: don’t use excessive force that may shear the bolt. Soak with penetrating oil, use heat on the nut only, then impact with a breaker bar. If bolt shears, you’ll need to extract it — time-consuming.
- Damaging bushings during removal/installation: use a press or properly sized driver; hitting the bushing with a hammer without backing can deform the arm or bushing.
- Replacing only one side: always replace both sides or measure/adjust alignment; unilateral replacement can cause uneven steering and load.
- Missing new hardware: reuse only if in excellent condition. Replace castle nuts, cotter pins, worn washers, or badly rusted bolts.
- Over-tightening pivot: over-tightening can bind the control arm and cause premature bushing failure. Under-tightening causes play and unsafe steering.
- Not supporting the axle/frame: loss of support can cause the tractor to drop off the jack stands and cause serious injury.

Replacement-part checklist
- New control arm(s) or complete radius rod assemblies (OEM or quality aftermarket).
- Pivot bolt/kingpin (if corroded), nut, washers.
- New bushings (rubber or polyurethane) sized for TE‑20 arm.
- Grease nipples (zerk), grease.
- New cotter pins and any steering hardware (tie‑rod ends if worn).
- Optional: replacement steering drop arm if tapered stud is damaged.

Final notes
- Consult a TE‑20 service manual for exact bolt sizes and torque specs before final torqueing.
- If you’re not equipped to press bushings or deal with seized kingpins, consider buying a rebuilt arm assembly or having a machine shop press new bushings in.
- After replacing, monitor for the first few hours of operation and re-check all fasteners.
rteeqp73

1948 Ferguson TE20 Doesn't want to run One of my neighbours has an old Ferguson that's giving him fits. Lets help him out and see what's going on with it.

Nampa Tractor Salvage 2/2 Massey Ferguson, Ford, John Deer, Case, Tractor Parts I am an old tractor buff, and it turns out that my classmate from high school work(ed) at Nampa Tractor Salvage. He let me have the ...

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