Tools & materials
- Metric socket set (including extension), ratchet and breaker bar
- Combination wrenches (10–19 mm common)
- Torque wrench (range covering small fasteners)
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
- Feeler gauge set (metric)
- Small magnet on a stick and long-nose pliers
- Soft mallet
- Small pry bar or drift (brass/soft if possible)
- Clean rags and parts tray
- Engine assembly lube or clean engine oil
- Pen/marker and masking tape (to mark parts)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / WD-40)
- Wire brush / gasket scraper
- Dial indicator or straight-edge (see inspection)
- Replacement parts: pushrods (OEM or quality equivalent) if worn/bent, valve cover gasket, rocker/shaft seals or O‑rings if applicable, any worn rockers/tappet parts
- Service manual (recommended for exact clearances / torque specs)

Safety precautions (read and follow)
- Work on a cool engine. Hot cylinder head/covers and fluids will burn you.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Work in a well-ventilated area, wear eye protection and gloves.
- Keep loose clothing and jewelry away from moving parts.
- Support removed components in a clean place to prevent contamination.
- If you need to rotate the engine, do so by the crankshaft bolt with correct socket and breaker bar; never rotate by the cam or accessory pulleys.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, place transmission in neutral (or park if automatic). Disconnect negative battery.
- Remove any engine covers or accessory interference to access valve cover.
- Clean the area around the valve cover to keep dirt out when opened.

2) Remove valve cover
- Remove bolts holding valve cover. Keep bolts in order and note orientation of any baffling.
- Lift valve cover straight up. If stuck, tap with a soft mallet around the perimeter. Set cover on a clean rag.
- Remove old valve cover gasket; clean gasket surfaces thoroughly.

3) Mark and document
- Use masking tape and a marker to number each pushrod/rocker position (so you reinstall each pushrod in the same bore it came from).
- Photograph or sketch rocker positions and orientation if helpful.

4) Remove rocker assembly / rockers
- If the rocker assembly is on a shaft, unbolt the shaft clamp caps in a criss-cross sequence, a few turns at a time, to avoid cocking the shaft.
- If individual rockers, remove each rocker nut/bolt while supporting the rocker.
- Keep rockers and hardware together in their original order.

5) Remove pushrods
- Pushrods simply lift out once rockers are removed. Some will stick to the lifter; use a magnet on a stick or gently pry under the cup with a small screwdriver while turning the engine slowly by hand to move the lifter if required.
- Withdraw pushrods straight up; keep them in their labeled order.

6) Inspect pushrods
- Visual: look for pitting, scoring, mushroomed ends, flattened or polished spots, rust, and bent tips.
- Straightness: lay each pushrod on two V‑blocks or on a perfectly flat surface and roll; wobble indicates bend. Better: mount between centers or use a dial indicator to measure runout.
- End condition: check both ball/cup ends for wear or ovalization. If any damage or excessive wear, replace pushrod.
- Compare lengths: measure overall length and compare to spec or other rods; any variation beyond tiny tolerance -> replace.

7) Inspect related components
- Check lifter faces for scoring or grooves; rocker contact areas for wear; cam lobes for pitting; rocker shaft bores for ovality.
- If lifters or cam lobes are damaged, replacing pushrods alone is pointless—repair required.

8) Prepare replacement or original pushrods for reassembly
- If reusing pushrods only do so when they pass the inspections above.
- Coat both ends lightly with assembly lube or clean engine oil. Never install dry.

9) Reinstall pushrods
- Insert each pushrod into the same bore it came from (marking prevents mistakes). Ensure they seat squarely in the lifter cup.
- If a pushrod won’t seat, do not force with excessive leverage. Apply penetrating oil, then gently work lifter/pushrod by rotating engine slowly or using a magnet to free stuck parts.

10) Reinstall rockers / shaft
- Reinstall rockers in original order. If a rocker shaft, tighten caps evenly a little at a time in sequence to manufacturer pattern to avoid bending shaft.
- Torque rocker/shaft caps to spec (consult service manual). If you don’t have numbers, tighten evenly and don’t overtighten—these are alignment fasteners.

11) Valve clearance adjustment (final)
- Valve lash must be set on cold engine to factory specs. General procedure:
a) Rotate engine to the cylinder’s compression stroke with its valves on the base circle (cam lobe away from lifter).
b) Insert the correct feeler gauge between rocker tip and valve tip.
c) Loosen locknut on adjuster, turn screw until feeler gauge has slight drag, hold screw, tighten locknut and recheck clearance.
d) Repeat for all valves using firing order / TDC sequence so each valve is adjusted on the base circle.
- Use proper two‑wrench method (one to hold adjuster, one to tighten locknut) and then re‑check clearance after locknut torqued.
- If you do not have exact valve clearance specs for the Perkins 3.152, obtain the service manual; incorrect valve lash can cause poor running or valve damage.

12) Final checks and reassembly
- Re-torque rocker cover bolts to spec (clean seating surfaces and reuse or replace gasket).
- Clean area of tools and debris. Reconnect battery.
- Start engine and listen for abnormal valve noise. Some light ticking may occur until oil circulates.
- Recheck valve clearances after initial run-in (engine warm/cold per manual).

How the pushrod tool usage and handling works
- There’s no special “pushrod tool” for simply removing pushrods—removal is done by lifting after removing rockers. A magnetic pickup helps retrieve stuck pushrods. If a pushrod is firmly stuck in the lifter, use penetrating oil and rotate the engine slowly to work the lifter down for release.
- For checking straightness, use a dial indicator with the pushrod supported on two blocks and spin to measure runout; any perceptible wobble beyond factory tolerance = replace.
- For stuck lifters, a small slide hammer or puller should only be used with care and as a last resort because they can damage lifter bores; it’s better to free with oil and gentle mechanical motion.

Replacement parts required / recommended
- Pushrods: replace any pushrod showing wear, bent, or incorrect length. Replace in matched sets if long service life or suspected fatigue.
- Valve cover gasket (recommended whenever cover removed)
- Rocker shaft bushings, rocker arms, or lifters if worn
- Fasteners/gaskets that are damaged or corroded
- Assembly lube or clean engine oil for reassembly

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Mixing pushrod positions — always keep them in the same hole; mismatched pushrod/lifter pair can cause misalignment and wear.
- Installing pushrods that are bent or have worn ends — will accelerate cam and lifter wear.
- Setting valve lash on the wrong stroke (not on base circle) — you’ll get incorrect clearances.
- Not lubricating pushrod ends before startup — dry metal-to-metal contact will quickly damage lifters/cam.
- Overtightening rocker shaft caps or locknuts—these clamp pieces are not head bolts; overtightening causes distortion and wear.
- Ignoring adjacent wear (cam, lifters, rockers) — replacing pushrods alone when other parts are worn is short-lived.
- Reusing a damaged valve cover gasket — will leak oil onto pushrods/rockers.

Final notes (no nonsense)
- Get the Perkins 3.152 service manual for exact valve clearance values and torque specs before you start. Work methodically, keep parts labeled, and replace any pushrod that fails straightness or end condition checks.
rteeqp73

Machining and Rebuilding A 152 Cubic Inch Perkins Diesel Engine In Under 20 Mins? Okay, maybe it took more than 20 minutes... But I can show you in less than 20 minutes! This quick video shows the machine work ...

Machining and Rebuilding A 152 Cubic Inch Perkins Diesel Engine In Under 20 Mins? Okay, maybe it took more than 20 minutes... But I can show you in less than 20 minutes! This quick video shows the machine work ...

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