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Perkins Diesel 3.152 factory workshop and repair manual download

1) Quick theory summary
- Purpose: wheel bearings let the wheel rotate smoothly while carrying radial and axial loads. Most systems use either tapered-roller bearings (separate inner/outer bearings on a spindle) or a sealed cartridge/hub unit.
- Fault symptoms: growling/rumbling noise that changes with speed, play in the hub, heat at the hub, uneven tyre wear. These come from worn rollers/races, corrosion, contamination or loss of grease and/or incorrect preload.
- How replacement fixes it: new rollers/races or a new sealed hub restores correct contact geometry, restores preload/lubrication and sealing, removes metal-on-metal wear surfaces and axial/radial play — eliminating noise, heat and instability.

2) Tools & safety (essential)
- Tools: jack and quality jack stands, wheel chocks, socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench, hammer and soft drift or bearing driver, bearing puller/hub puller or press, punch, seal driver, grease packer or bulk wheel bearing grease, new bearings/seals or new hub assembly, wire brush, brake cleaner, shop rags.
- Safety: park on level surface, chock opposite wheels, support vehicle on stands (never on jack alone), wear gloves/eye protection.

3) Preparation and diagnosis (why you do each)
- Lift and support the vehicle, remove wheel.
Theory: exposes hub and lets you inspect play and noise sources safely.
- Verify play by rocking wheel back/forth and by spinning hub to reproduce noise.
Theory: distinguishes bearing play from suspension/steering play.

4) Remove brake and hub components (order)
- Remove brake caliper (or drum/assembly). Hang caliper without stressing hose.
Theory: caliper removal gives hub access; avoid hose damage.
- Remove rotor/drum and any dust cap or cotter pin, castellated nut, axle nut or central retaining nut.
Theory: frees hub from spindle; removing cap gives access to bearings and seals.

5) Extract hub/hub unit
- For separate-bearing hubs: remove outer bearing and hub. For sealed cartridge or unit hubs: remove entire hub assembly (often bolts on or pulls off).
Theory: access to inner bearings and races; sealed units are replaced as a unit because rollers and seals are integral.

6) Disassemble bearings and races; clean and inspect
- Remove bearings, rollers, and seals; inspect for scoring, pitting, fluting, discoloration (overheat).
Theory: surface damage indicates electrical corrosion, contamination, or fatigue. Check spindle and hub races for grooves; replace damaged races or entire hub.
- Clean spindle and hub bore with solvent, dry, and inspect shaft for straightness, scoring, or chamfer damage.
Theory: a damaged spindle races will quickly destroy new bearings if not corrected.

7) Decide what to replace
- Replace bearings and seals as a set; replace inner races (cups) if damaged; replace hub assembly if sealed type or if races are integral/damaged.
Theory: new bearing on old race shortens life; seals prevent re-contamination.

8) Bearing installation (separate tapered bearings)
- Prepack bearings with quality wheel-grease or use grease-packer. Pack by forcing grease through rollers until purge at back.
Theory: full, properly packed grease prevents dry spots and reduces heat and wear.
- Install inner bearing and inner race, seat race with driver/press squarely.
Theory: races must be fully seated to maintain bearing geometry.
- Install hub over spindle, then outer bearing and washer and nut.
- Set bearing preload: tighten nut to seat bearings, then back off and retighten to specified torque/preload or set endplay (commonly tighten to seat, loosen, then tighten to a specified torque while rotating; or set to specified endplay using dial indicator).
Theory: tapered bearings require controlled preload/axial clearance. Too loose = play and noise; too tight = overheating and premature wear.

9) Sealed cartridge or hub unit installation
- Clean mating surfaces, install new hub unit and torque mounting bolts to spec (replace studs if necessary).
Theory: sealed units come pre-greased and pre-set; correct mounting ensures preload and runout control.

10) Replace seals and final assembly
- Install new oil/dust seals with correct driver and depth.
Theory: seals keep grease in and contaminants out — critical to longevity.
- Reinstall dust cap/cotter pin where applicable, brake rotor/drum, caliper, wheel, torque wheel nuts to spec, lower vehicle.
Theory: correct torques and safety fastenings are essential to maintain preload and prevent loosening.

11) Testing and verification
- Spin wheel and check for smooth rotation and absence of abnormal noise; re-check endplay or bearing torque if adjustable.
- Road test at increasing speeds, listen for noise and check for heat at hub after a short run.
Theory: confirm that bearings run cool, quiet, and without play; catching problems early avoids catastrophic failure.

12) Root causes and preventive measures
- Common causes: ingress of water/dirt, insufficient grease, overloading, misassembly, damaged races or spindle, lack of seals.
- How repair prevents recurrence: replacing bearings/races removes damaged contact surfaces; new seals and correct grease keep contaminants out; correct preload and torque prevent overload; inspecting and replacing damaged adjacent components prevents repeat failure.

13) Brief notes on specifics
- Tapered roller bearings: need preload/endplay adjustment; components are separate.
- Ball bearings/cartridge hubs: may require replacement of the entire sealed unit; no repacking or preload adjustment.
- Torque and preload values vary by vehicle/hub — always use OEM specs for final torque and endplay.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Removing worn rollers/races eliminates the damaged race geometry that causes vibration and noise.
- New bearings restore proper rolling contact and preload, eliminating play and heat from friction.
- New seals and grease stop contamination and lubrication loss, preventing recurrence.

End.
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