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Perkins Diesel 3.152 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & PPE
- Tools: flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, 8–14 mm socket and ratchet (or appropriate size), adjustable wrench, pliers (locking and slip-joint), small soft-bristle brush, shop vacuum (optional), low-pressure compressed air source (regulated), clean lint-free rags.
- Replacement parts: correct paper air filter element for Perkins 3.152 (OEM or equivalent), intake housing gasket/O‑ring or foam seal (if fitted), clamp/wingnut if corroded, pre-cleaner/oil for oil‑bath type (if fitted).
- PPE & safety: safety glasses, disposable gloves, N95 or dust mask, engine cooled and key removed, parking brake set, block wheels if on vehicle, avoid open flames (dust can be combustible).

Safety precautions (must-do)
1. Engine OFF, key removed, and allowed to cool. Never work on intake with engine running.
2. Wear eye/respiratory protection when removing dust. Keep hands clear of hot components.
3. Prevent debris from entering the intake — cover intake opening immediately if filter is removed for any length of time.
4. If using compressed air, keep pressure low (<30 psi) and stand back to avoid driving dirt into seals or the intake; do not point air directly at paper filter elements (see below).

Step-by-step: Air filter change (Perkins 3.152)
1. Locate the air filter housing
- Usually a cylindrical or rectangular canister on the side/top of the engine. Identify cover fasteners (wingnuts, clips, hose clamps).

2. Prepare the area
- Place a rag over the intake inlet (or use a clean plastic bag) to prevent debris falling into the intake while you work. Remove any loose dirt off the outside of the housing with a brush or vacuum first.

3. Remove housing cover
- Use screwdriver/socket/wingnut tool to remove fasteners. For spring/ear clamps use pliers. Keep fasteners in a small tray.
- If there is a pre-cleaner (cyclone or oil-bath) unscrew or unclip it and set aside.

4. Remove old filter element
- Lift the element straight out, keeping it vertical to avoid dropping dust into the housing. Inspect orientation so the new one will seat the same way.
- If the unit has two elements (outer prefilter and inner main), remove both and note order.

5. Inspect housing and intake
- Use vacuum or a rag to remove all loose dirt from the housing and mouth of the intake. Use a brush for stubborn deposits. Don’t push dirt into the intake.
- Check seals, gasket, and mating surface for cracks, hardening or missing foam; replace if damaged.

6. Inspect old filter and decide
- If it’s a paper element: replace rather than clean if clogged or oily. Do NOT attempt to clean a heavily soiled or damaged paper element.
- If it’s a reusable mesh/pre-cleaner: you can clean per manufacturer instructions (see “cleaning tips” below).

7. Fit new element
- Ensure the new element is the correct part for Perkins 3.152 and dry (unless it’s an oil-bath element requiring oil).
- Seat the element squarely and fully into the housing. Make sure any rubber seals are correctly positioned and not folded.
- If there are two elements, outer goes on first (or as original).

8. Replace seals and cover
- Replace any foam gasket or O-ring. Refit cover and tighten clips/wingnuts/snaps evenly — snug, not over-tight. Avoid crushing the filter or deforming the seal.

9. Reattach ducting and pre-cleaner
- Refit any inlet snorkel and secure hose clamps. Replace pre-cleaner and add oil if the pre-cleaner is oil-bath type and requires topping up.

10. Final checks & run
- Remove any rags or coverings from the intake. Start engine, listen for whistling/suction (indicating leaks), and re-check clamps after a short run.

Tool usage details and best practices
- Ratchet/socket: Use for hex bolts on housings. Break bolts free with short, controlled strokes; re-tighten snugly by hand or about 8–12 ft‑lb depending on bolt size — do not overtighten.
- Screwdriver: Use correct tip size to avoid stripping heads. Use to lever open clips gently where needed.
- Pliers (locking): Useful for holding spring clips. Use vice-grip carefully to avoid crushing thin sheet metal.
- Shop vacuum: Best for removing loose debris from housing — hold nozzle just inside and run around cavity.
- Compressed air: Only for cleaning metal/reusable elements. Use regulated low pressure <30 psi, hold nozzle at least 6–12 inches away, and blow from clean side outward (inside → outside) to push dirt away from filtering medium. Never use high-pressure air on paper elements — it damages fiber and embeds dirt.
- Brushes & rags: Soft brush for caked dirt; lint-free rag to wipe sealing surfaces.

Cleaning reusable pre-cleaners (if fitted)
- Cyclone or dry pre-cleaners: follow manufacturer cleaning procedure; often can be tapped out or wiped and reinstalled.
- Oil-bath: drain and replace oil periodically; clean sump and refill to specified level with correct pre-cleaner oil.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Reusing a clogged paper element — will reduce engine power and increase wear.
- Using compressed air on paper elements — destroys filtering efficiency.
- Installing element upside down or misaligned — causes leaks and unfiltered air ingestion.
- Over-tightening clamps/wingnuts — crushes element or damages housing.
- Not replacing damaged seals/gaskets — leads to unfiltered air bypass.
- Allowing debris to fall into intake when element removed — can cause immediate engine damage; always cover intake if filter out for more than a few seconds.
- Mixing up prefilter/outer element orientation — results in poor filtration.
- Forgetting to reattach breather hoses or pre-cleaner parts — causes vacuum leaks or contaminant entry.

Replacement parts required
- Primary air filter element — must match Perkins 3.152 engine spec.
- Secondary/pre-filter element if fitted.
- Foam gasket/O-ring for housing if worn.
- Pre-cleaner oil or oil-bath element (if engine uses oil-bath type).
- New clamp/wingnut if corroded or stripped.

Disposal
- Dispose of used filters per local regulations (they may contain trapped diesel/oil and dust).

Done.
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