Tools & consumables
- Floor jack and quality axle/vehicle jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- Socket set (metric) 8–24 mm, deep sockets for top studs if needed
- Combination wrenches (same sizes)
- Breaker bar and ratchet
- Torque wrench (range to 200 Nm)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar)
- Small pry bar or large screwdriver
- Hammer and punch (for seized bolts)
- 6–12 mm hex key / Allen if required by design
- Wire brush and rag
- New shock absorbers matched to the vehicle/axle using the Perkins 3.152 (confirm part numbers)
- New mounting hardware (nuts/bolts/washers) and new rubber/urethane bushings if old ones are worn
- Anti-seize compound or light grease / threadlocker (per manufacturer)
- Safety glasses, mechanic gloves
- Drain pan and disposable bag for old parts
- Optional: impact wrench (use with care)

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels opposite the end you lift.
- Never rely on the jack alone; always use stands under solid frame or axle pads.
- Support the axle or control arm with a jack/stand when removing shocks so the suspension is not loaded.
- Wear eye protection when breaking loose rusty fasteners; rust/metal can fly.
- Dispose of old shocks and hardware per local regulations.

Parts required (typical)
- Correct shock absorber(s) for the vehicle model that carries the Perkins 3.152 engine (front and/or rear as needed)
- New rubber/urethane bushings and stainless washers (most shocks have replaceable bushings)
- New bolts/nuts if original hardware is corroded or single-use torque-to-yield fasteners are specified
- Thread-locker or anti-seize as recommended

Step-by-step procedure
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly if wheel removal is required.
- Apply penetrating oil to shock upper and lower fasteners; let soak 10–15 minutes.

2. Raise and secure vehicle
- Position floor jack under the recommended jacking point near the corner you are working on.
- Lift vehicle until the wheel is off the ground. Place jack stands under frame or axle pad. Lower onto stands.
- If replacing rear shocks on a solid axle, support the axle with a jack stand or hydraulic jack to take load off the shock.

3. Remove wheel (if required)
- Fully remove lug nuts and wheel to gain access.

4. Support suspension
- Put a second jack under the axle or lower control arm to slightly lift/hold the suspension so the shock is not under tension. This prevents sudden drop when bolts are removed.

5. Remove lower fastener
- Use appropriate socket/wrench. Use breaker bar if tight.
- If bolt head spins, use an assistant to hold the nut or use a locking pliers.
- If corroded, apply penetrating oil and tap with a hammer/punch to break rust. Use impact wrench carefully if available.
- Pull out the bolt. Keep the hardware layout for reference.

6. Remove upper fastener
- Remove nut or top stud retaining nut (some top studs require holding with Allen or hex while removing nut).
- For top-mount studs that protrude into engine bay or underbody, reach from above/below as necessary.
- Once top is free, rotate or pull shock down and out of its mount.

7. Inspect mounts and replace bushings
- Clean mounting eyes and frame with wire brush. Inspect for ovalized holes, cracked mounts, or worn brackets. Replace any damaged components.
- If reusing bushings, inspect for cracks or deterioration; replace bushings if any play is present.

8. Fit new shock
- Ensure new shock orientation is correct (some gas shocks must be mounted with the body up; check manufacturer).
- Insert shock into top mount first (or bottom first if easier), align bushings/eyes.
- Lightly grease outer faces of new rubber bushings if recommended.
- Hand-thread top nut a few turns to hold it in place.

9. Align and install lower fastener
- Use the jack to align the axle/control arm and shock eyeholes.
- Insert new or original bolt through mount and shock. Use new washers/nuts if provided.
- Hand-tighten lower nut.

10. Torque fasteners
- With suspension at normal ride height if specified (some manufacturers state torque with vehicle on ground; others torqued unloaded). If your vehicle manual specifies torque with weight on wheels, lower vehicle slightly to place normal load before final torquing.
- Typical torque ranges (confirm with vehicle manual): lower shock bolts 80–150 Nm, upper nuts 40–100 Nm depending on vehicle size and bolt grade. When in doubt, consult the vehicle service manual for exact Nm.
- Use torque wrench, apply threadlocker if required on nuts or anti-seize on threads where needed.

11. Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
- Refit wheel, hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower vehicle off stands and torque lug nuts to spec.
- If you torqued shocks with vehicle loaded per manual, ensure final torque is correct after lowering.

12. Repeat for other shocks
- Replace the opposite corner(s) as needed. Replace shocks in pairs (both front or both rear) to maintain balanced handling.

13. Post-install checks
- Bounce test: push down on corner of vehicle and let it settle — should damp with 1–2 oscillations.
- Road test at low speeds first. Listen for clunks and recheck fasteners after 100 km.
- Inspect for leaks on new shocks (they should be dry).

Using specific tools — how they’re used
- Floor jack / stands: lift at recommended jacking points, support on stands under solid points, never under body panels. Lower jack until weight transfers to stands.
- Penetrating oil: spray on nut/bolt threads, wiggle or tap lightly with hammer to help penetration. Let sit.
- Breaker bar: use to break seized bolts free; apply steady force, avoid jerking. Use two hands and stand clear.
- Torque wrench: set required torque, snug bolt then apply slow, steady force until wrench clicks; do not overrun the click.
- Pry bar: used to align holes if bushings are tight; do not lever off paint-protected surfaces.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal; use gently on suspension fasteners and avoid overstretching threads or snapping studs.
- Hammer/punch: use to tap out corroded bolts; support opposite side to avoid twisting mounts.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not supporting the axle/control arm: axle can drop suddenly and cause injury or damage. Always support with jack/stand before removing bolts.
- Reusing old worn bushings: leads to premature noise and poor damping — always replace if sign of wear.
- Overtightening bushings while suspension loaded incorrectly: some designs require torque with weight on wheels. Check manual or torque with vehicle on ground to avoid preloading rubber bushings (causes premature failure).
- Mixing up shock types: replace like-for-like (length, mount type, valving). Incorrect shocks change ride height/handling.
- Using corroded original hardware: bolts can shear. Replace nuts/bolts if corroded or if manufacturer recommends new hardware.
- Installing gas shocks upside down: some shocks must be body-up to retain gas and prolong life; check label.
- Not checking other suspension components: worn mount brackets, control arms, or springs will mask poor results if not addressed.
- Not torquing to spec: under-torqued fasteners can work loose; over-torqued bolts can fail. Use a torque wrench.

Disposal
- Dispose of old shocks and oily rags responsibly following local regulations.

Final note
- Replace shocks in pairs (both front or both rear). If uncertain about torque specs or mount types for your specific vehicle that houses a Perkins 3.152, consult the vehicle or chassis service manual for exact fastener sizes and torque values.
rteeqp73

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