Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric hand tool set (sockets 8–24 mm, ratchets, extensions)
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm)
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack + block of wood + second person
- Engine support or hoist (if leaving engine in place)
- Pry bars, flat & punch drifts, soft-faced hammer (nylon/lead)
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal & external)
- Bearing/gear puller and hydraulic press (or bench press) for bushings if needed
- Punch set and pin drift set
- Feeler gauges / vernier calipers / micrometer
- Clean shop rags, solvent, parts trays, marker/tape, camera (for labeling)
- Sealant, gasket scraper, new gaskets/seals, assembly lube
- Correct gearbox oil (factory spec GL‑4/GL‑5 as specified)
- New shift forks, selector rail(s), circlips, bushings/bearings, and any worn synchro rings (purchase OEM or high‑quality aftermarket)
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves, jack stands, wheel chocks

Safety precautions (non‑optional)
- Work on a flat surface, chock wheels, use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect battery before starting.
- Support transmission with a transmission jack before unbolting mounts; transmission weight is heavy and awkward.
- Drain gearbox oil into a proper container; dispose of used oil legally.
- Keep work area clean to avoid contamination of internal parts.
- Use two people for removal/installation or an engine support/hoist to relieve weight.

Overview of the job
You will remove the transmission from the vehicle, disassemble the gearbox selector assembly/cover, withdraw the selector rails and shift forks, inspect/replace worn parts, then reassemble and reinstall. Do not attempt fork replacement with the gearbox bolted to the engine unless you are experienced and have vehicle‑specific instructions — removal is the normal safe procedure.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation and access
- Park, chock, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Remove center console/shifter trim and shift lever boot to access top of shifter linkage.
- Raise vehicle, support on jack stands. Remove driveshaft/propshaft (and front axle shafts/CV drives if necessary for access), speedometer cable or sensor, speedo drive housing if fitted.
- Drain gearbox oil via drain plug into a pan.

2) Disconnect linkages and mounts
- Mark and disconnect the shift linkage at the gearbox (note orientation and take photos).
- Disconnect clutch slave cylinder or release bearing link (support and move out of the way — don’t let it hang on the hydraulic hose).
- Remove starter if it blocks access; disconnect any sensors, wiring and ground straps to the transmission.
- Support the gearbox with a transmission jack and remove crossmember and engine/transmission mount bolts.

3) Remove transmission
- Unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts while supporting the gearbox on the jack.
- Slide gearbox clear of the input shaft and carefully lower it on the jack. Keep the clutch/pressure plate together as an assembly if possible and protect the splines.

4) Secure gearbox on bench
- Clean exterior of gearbox before opening to prevent contaminants entering.
- Place gearbox on a bench on a transmission cradle or wood blocks.

5) Open the top cover/selector housing
- Remove the gearbox top cover/selector cover bolts and carefully lift the cover. Take photos of orientation of springs, detents, and balls.
- Remove the selector lever and any detent components — keep parts organized in labelled trays.

6) Remove selector rails and forks
- Identify and remove circlips or retaining bolts securing selector shafts/rods.
- Slide out selector shafts/rails while supporting forks. Note each fork’s position (1–2, 3–4, reverse). Tag them.
- Remove shift forks from the rails. Inspect fork contact pads, pivot bosses, and any shims or washers.

How the tools are used
- Snap‑ring pliers: remove/install circlips holding selector shafts or retaining rings on fork pins.
- Soft-faced hammer and punch: tap out selector rod retaining pins or drift out dowels gently — avoid mushrooming metal.
- Puller/press: remove and press in bushings or worn bushes on fork bores or rails if they are pressed in.
- Torque wrench: used on reassembly for all fasteners to factory specs.
- Calipers/feeler gauges: measure fork pad thickness, bore diameters, and rail diameters to decide serviceability.

7) Inspect components and decide replacements
- Inspect forks: wear at pad faces (where fork engages synchro sleeve), cracks, deformations. Replace if pads are thin, scored, cracked or if bosses are oval.
- Inspect selector rails: worn flats, grooves, scoring. Replace if worn beyond limit.
- Inspect fork bushings/bearings and replace if play exceeds factory spec. Replace any circlips that are deformed.
- Inspect synchros, sleeves, dogs, bearings & gear teeth; if forks were worn, synchros are often damaged—plan to replace worn synchros or bearings at the same time.
- Replace all gaskets and seals at reassembly (top cover gasket, output shaft seal, etc.).

Typical replacement parts required
- Shift forks (OEM part numbers vary by transmission model — source for your exact transmission code: R150F/R151F etc.)
- Selector rails (if worn)
- Fork bushings/bearings and retaining circlips/pins
- Top cover gasket/seal kit and output seals
- Gearbox oil
- Potentially synchro rings, synchronizer hubs/sleeves, bearings if inspection shows wear

8) Reassembly of forks & rails
- Clean all parts in solvent, dry, and lay out in order.
- Lightly lubricate rails and fork pivot faces with assembly lube or gearbox oil.
- Fit forks onto the rails in their correct positions. Ensure the fork engages the synchronizer sleeve correctly and the heel of the fork sits on the rail bore squarely.
- Reinstall selector shafts/rods and secure circlips/pins. Use snap‑ring pliers and check clips are fully seated in grooves.
- Rotate/select through gears by hand to verify forks move sleeves cleanly through the shift range. There must be smooth action with no binding.

9) Refit cover and service items
- Replace gasket or use correct sealant as per shop manual. Torque cover bolts to specification (use factory manual).
- Reinstall any detent balls/springs and selector lever assembly, check spring tension and indexing.
- Refit any removed sensors/links and re‑fill gearbox with specified oil to proper level.

10) Reinstall transmission into vehicle
- Reverse removal: position gearbox on jack, line up input shaft with clutch splines and slide forward. Tighten bellhousing bolts to factory torque sequence and values.
- Reattach mounts, crossmember, linkages, driveshafts, speedo cable/sensor, starter, clutch slave/hydraulic connections.
- Refill gearbox to level, reconnect battery, and test shift lever operation with engine off to check full range and engagement.

11) Test and break‑in
- Start vehicle, verify no leaks. With engine off, cycle through gears to check engagement and neutral position.
- Test drive gently; check for abnormal noises, grinding, or difficulty selecting gears. Re‑check oil level after test drive and after first few hundred kilometers.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Mixing fork positions: Tag forks/rails during removal. Forks are matched — swapping can cause mis‑indexing and grinding.
- Reusing worn forks/rails or seals: Always replace forks or rails that show wear; replace all gaskets and output seals.
- Damaging splines or input shaft during removal/installation: Align splines carefully and avoid forcing gearbox onto the engine. Use alignment tool or the clutch disc as guide.
- Incorrect circlip seating: Inspect each snap ring seat and make sure circlips are fully seated; a loose circlip will cause catastrophic failure.
- Not checking synchros: Worn forks often damage synchronizer rings — if you don't replace worn synchros you’ll continue to have gear crunching.
- Over‑torquing or under‑torquing bolts: Use a torque wrench and factory specs.
- Failure to clean: Any dirt or metal debris left in gearbox will accelerate wear. Clean thoroughly.
- Not supporting weight: Dropping gearbox or letting it pivot can bend rails or break forks.

Notes specific to Toyota 1HZ / 1PZ / 1HD‑T transmissions
- These engines are commonly paired with R150F/R151F 5‑speed gearboxes or similar Toyota manual boxes. Fork designs vary by exact transmission code — confirm the transmission ID tag before ordering parts.
- Shift forks and rails for these transmissions are available as OEM parts; aftermarket is available but verify quality. Buy a seal/gasket kit and replace any small parts (springs, balls, circlips) while you’re in there.

Final checks
- Verify smooth shifting and gear engagement with engine running (stationary) and on the road.
- Recheck torque on external fasteners and recheck fluid level after warmup.
- If you hear abnormal grinding, stop and inspect — it’s easier to correct on the bench than on the road.

Follow factory service manual for your exact transmission model for torque values, shimming specs, and measured limits. If you don’t have the manual, obtain the transmission code and get the correct spec sheet before reassembly.
rteeqp73

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