Tools required
- Floor jack, quality jack stands (capacity-rated), wheel chocks
- Torque wrench, breaker bar, assorted sockets/wrenches
- Tape measure, carpenter’s level, ruler
- String or toe plates or laser alignment tool (toe measuring)
- Turn plates (for front wheels) or smooth plates under wheels
- Camber/caster gauge or digital inclinometer that clamps to hub or rim
- Steering wheel centering tool (or mark)
- Pry bar, hammer, punch (for shims/U‑bolt removal)
- Replacement shims (steel), new U‑bolt nuts (if removed), anti-seize
- Penetrant, cleaning brush, rags
- Replacement steering/suspension parts as needed: tie rod ends, drag link, idler arm, pitman arm, kingpins/ball joints, wheel bearings, spring/shackle bushings, U‑bolts

Safety & prep
- Work on a level, flat surface. Chock rear wheels firmly.
- Set parking brake. If jacking the front, block rear wheels as extra precaution.
- Raise vehicle, support on jack stands under specified lift points. Do NOT rely on the jack.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Use wheel chocks and ensure stands are stable.
- Check tire pressures and match left/right.
- Inspect suspension and steering for play/worn parts first — alignment cannot be held if components are worn. Replace any loose/worn parts before aligning.

Initial inspection (do not skip)
- Check ball joints/kingpins, tie rod ends, idler/pitman arm, wheel bearings, spring eyes, shackles, U‑bolts. Correct or replace any worn/loose parts.
- Check steering stops and wheel bearings preload.
- Confirm proper ride height. Leaf springs with sag or broken leaves will change geometry; repair/replace as necessary.

Reference specs
- Use OEM alignment specs for your specific Toyota model/year (2F engine was used in Land Cruiser and trucks — verify the exact model). Typical ranges for older solid-axle Toyotas:
- Toe total: about 1/16"–1/8" toe‑in (3–4 mm) total
- Caster: typically positive, around 2°–5°
- Camber: close to 0° (±1°)
Always aim for factory spec when available.

Step-by-step alignment

1) Set wheels straight and center steering
- Park vehicle with steering centered. Use steering centering tool or count turns from lock to lock and set steering wheel to the midpoint. Lock the wheel in place or mark it.
- Place turn plates or low‑friction boards under front wheels, or use turnplates if available.

2) Measure and record baseline
- Measure toe with toe plates or string method:
- String method: run strings parallel to vehicle centerline, one on each side, equal distance from wheel rims fore and aft; measure from string to rim at front and rear of rim to get toe.
- Toe plates: bolt or hold plates against rim, measure distance front vs rear between plates.
- With digital tools, follow manufacturer procedure.
- Measure camber and caster with gauge:
- Camber: attach gauge to hub or rim, zero it on a known vertical reference, measure left and right. Record values.
- Caster: follow gauge instructions — usually measure steering axis angle by turning wheel to left/right stops and using the difference method or reading from inclinometer while steering is straight. Record.

3) Set toe first (most technicians set toe first)
- Loosen tie rod end jam nuts.
- Adjust tie rod length (turn the tie rod sleeve or tie rod itself) to move toe in or out. On a solid axle with drag link/tie rod: the drag link sets steering centering, the tie rod sets toe. Keep adjustment symmetric if possible so steering wheel stays centered.
- After each small adjustment, re-measure toe. Aim for specified total toe (usually slight toe‑in).
- Once correct, torque tie rod jam nuts to spec. Re-check toe after tightening (jam nut tightening can move things).

How the tool is used: toe plates/string
- Toe plates: hold plates flush to the brake drum/rim, measure distance at front and rear with a tape. Difference = toe (positive if front measurement is less than rear = toe‑in).
- String: run string parallel to vehicle axis by measuring equal distances from centerline at front and rear of vehicle, adjust until strings are parallel to axle centerline, then measure string-to-rim distances.

4) Set camber
- On a solid axle, camber is usually adjusted with shims between axle and spring seat or spring perch. Determine which side needs change.
- To decrease positive camber (bring top of wheel inward), add shim under the side of the spring seat that will tilt the axle toward that side (i.e., add shims under the opposite side or remove from the direction causing lean).
- Procedure:
- Support axle on jack to relieve spring U‑bolts enough to remove U‑bolts if changing shims.
- Remove U‑bolts, change shim stack as required (usually a few 1/32"–1/16" shims), reassemble with new or re-used U‑bolts torqued to spec. Always use new U‑bolt nuts or follow torque-to-yield guidance.
- Lower, settle suspension, measure camber again.
- Repeat until camber is within spec.
- Note: On some models camber/caster are linked; adjusting camber may slightly affect caster and toe—recheck.

5) Set caster
- Caster on leaf-sprung solid axle Toyota is commonly adjusted with shims front/rear of the spring perch:
- Adding shims at the rear of axle spring perch (raising the rear of the axle relative to the spring) increases positive caster.
- Adding shims at the front of axle perch decreases positive caster.
- Procedure:
- Loosen U‑bolts and make shim changes similar to camber step. Only change front/rear shim location to change caster; same total plate thickness but moved fore/aft changes caster.
- After each change, re-torque U‑bolts, settle suspension and measure caster.
- Recheck toe and camber after caster changes and re‑adjust if necessary.

6) Final checks and road test
- Tighten all jam nuts and U‑bolts to specified torque. Use a torque wrench and tightening pattern for U‑bolts.
- Re-measure toe, camber, caster to ensure still in spec.
- Ensure steering wheel centered and returns properly. Check free play and steering stop.
- Test drive at low speed, perform 30–40 mile test if possible and recheck alignment after a short drive (leaf springs can settle).
- Re-torque U‑bolts and jam nuts after short road break-in.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Skipping inspection/repair of worn components — worn tie rod ends, idler/pitman arms, or bushings will prevent stable alignment.
- Working on an unlevel surface or with uneven ride height — always set ride height per spec.
- Not centering the steering wheel before setting toe — results in off-center steering.
- Over-tightening U‑bolts with axle load uneven — torque after the vehicle is at normal ride height and settled.
- Changing camber/caster by large shim jumps — make small changes and re-check; camber/caster are interdependent.
- Reusing stretched/old U‑bolts or failing to replace nuts—risk of failure. Replace U‑bolts or nuts per OEM.
- Not accounting for tire wear/imbalances — bad tires will skew readings.
- Forgetting to re-torque fasteners after a test drive.

When replacement parts are required
- Replace any component with play: tie rod ends, drag link, idler/pitman, kingpins/ball joints, wheel bearings, spring shackles/bushings.
- Replace U‑bolts or nuts if corroded or deformed. Replace shims if damaged.
- If the axle perch or spring pad is distorted, repair or replace; do not try to “shim out” structural damage.

Typical shim handling notes
- Use steel shims cut to correct shape. Stack evenly and keep the same total thickness between sides unless intentionally changing ride height.
- If you must add significant shim thickness for caster/camber correction, consider replacing spring perches or leaf spring packs rather than excessive shimming.

Tool-specific quick tips
- Caster/camber gauge: clamp to rim/hub securely. Zero the gauge on a known vertical reference if required. For caster via turn method, lock wheel at specified angle per gauge instructions and let gauge compute caster from reading differences.
- Turn plates: use when steering needs to be turned freely while measuring caster/camber. They reduce measurement error from tire scrubbing.
- Digital inclinometer: place on hub or rotor face at axle centerline for more precise readings.

Wrap-up
- Align only after steering/suspension are in good condition.
- Make small shim adjustments, re-measure each step. Toe first, then camber, then caster (recheck toe/camber after caster changes).
- Verify with OEM specs and recheck after a short test drive.

No unnecessary chatter — follow these steps and replace any worn components before attempting to align.
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