- Safety first
- Work on level ground, in daylight or good lighting, with engine off, key out, parking brake on.
- Use wheel chocks on wheels remaining on the ground.
- Never rely on the jack alone — always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Use hearing protection if you plan to use impact tools.

- What you’re replacing and why
- Shock absorber (damper): controls rebound and compression of the suspension. Common symptoms of bad shocks: oil leaking on the body/rod, excessive bouncing after a bump, poor handling, nose dive under braking, uneven tire wear, or knocks over bumps.
- Likely additional parts to replace at the same time: dust boot, bump stop, upper mount/bearing and rubber bushings, mounting bolts/nuts if rusted or stretched. Replace shocks in axle pairs (both fronts or both rears) for balanced handling.
- If your vehicle uses struts (shock and coil spring are one assembly) you may need the entire strut assembly or a spring compressor to change the internal damper safely.

- Tools you should have (basic tools first, then optional/extra) — each tool and how to use it
- Floor jack (hydraulic)
- Use: lift the vehicle at the manufacturer’s jacking points. Pump the handle to raise the car.
- Why required: safely lifts the vehicle so you can remove wheels and access shocks.
- How to use safely: position on flat surface, place jack pad under the jacking point, lift only enough to fit jack stands, never work under a vehicle supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Use: support the vehicle after lifting.
- Why required: permanent, stable support while you work.
- How to use: set the stands under solid pinch welds or frame points, lower the vehicle onto the stands slowly, give the car a small push to confirm stability.
- Wheel chocks (rubber or wood wedges)
- Use: block the opposite wheels to prevent rolling.
- Why required: prevents movement while lifted.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar and appropriate socket for lug nuts
- Use: loosen and tighten wheel nuts.
- How to use: break lug nuts loose while wheel still on ground, then remove after lifting. Tighten in a crisscross/star pattern when reinstalling.
- Socket set (metric) and ratchet
- Use: remove and install shock mounting bolts and nuts.
- How to use: select correct socket size, use extensions if needed. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Use: hold the nut or bolt head while you turn the opposite side with a socket or ratchet.
- How to use: use boxed end where possible to avoid rounding.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Use: spray on rusty or seized bolts and let soak.
- Why required: makes removal of old, rusty hardware possible without breaking bolts.
- Breaker bar (long-handled)
- Use: gives extra leverage to break stubborn bolts loose.
- How to use: fit correct socket and apply steady force; do not jerk.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Use: tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque.
- Why required: safety-critical fasteners (shock mounts, lug nuts) must be properly torqued for correct function and safety.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten until wrench clicks, then stop.
- Pry bar or large screwdriver
- Use: help separate shock from mount if it’s tight or rubber bushings are stuck.
- How to use: gentle leverage; don’t use excessive force that could bend mounting points.
- Hammer and punch (or small drift)
- Use: tap out rusted bolts after penetrating oil; straighten or free seized pieces.
- How to use: strike punches, not bolts, and caution not to injure threads.
- Bottle jack or small transmission jack (optional but useful)
- Use: support axle, control arm or strut while removing shock.
- Why required: prevents suspension drop and makes bolt alignment easier.
- How to use: place under axle tube or lower control arm and raise enough to take load off the shock.
- Spring compressor (only if you have a strut assembly with coil spring)
- Use: compress coil spring to safely disassemble strut.
- Why required: strut springs hold a lot of energy; compressing is mandatory or the spring can violently eject.
- How to use: follow spring compressor instructions precisely; if unsure, have a shop do it.
- Impact wrench (air or 12V) — optional
- Use: speeds removal of lug nuts and large bolts.
- Why required: helpful for stubborn hardware.
- How to use safely: use impact-rated sockets; be careful not to overtighten without a torque wrench.
- Bolt extractor set / file / Dremel (optional)
- Use: if bolts are rounded or broken.
- Why required: sometimes old hardware is seized or rusted beyond normal removal methods.
- How to use: extractor bits are used per kit instructions; cutting tools remove protruding rusted studs.
- Vice-grips (locking pliers), adjustable pliers, needle-nose pliers
- Use: hold studs, remove cotter pins, or clamp off items.
- Work light and rags
- Use: illumination and cleanup.
- Gloves and eye protection
- Use: protect hands and eyes.

- Parts you may need (brief on each)
- Shock absorbers (correct part number or equivalent with same length and mounts)
- Replace both shocks on an axle. Choose OEM or quality aftermarket (Bilstein, KYB, Monroe, Sachs) matched to vehicle.
- Upper mount/bearing (if strut) or rubber top mount (for shocks with top bushings)
- Replace if noisy, cracked or with excessive play.
- Rubber bushings (shock eye bushings) and metal sleeves
- Replace if cracked, flattened, or if there’s play in the mount.
- Mounting bolts/nuts/washers (new hardware)
- Replace rusted, corroded, or stretched fasteners. Some bolts are torque-to-yield and should not be reused.
- Dust boot and bump stop
- Protects the rod; bump stop prevents bottoming out. Replace if damaged.
- Sway bar end links, control arm bushings (inspect)
- Replace if worn — they affect handling and may cause noises similar to bad shocks.

- Step-by-step procedure (bulleted sequence)
- Preparation
- Park level, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly with the vehicle on the ground.
- Apply penetrating oil to shock mount bolts and let soak if rusty.
- Lift and support the vehicle
- Raise the corner/side with the floor jack at the specified jacking point and install jack stands under solid frame points.
- Lower the car onto stands and ensure it’s stable.
- Remove the wheel.
- Support the suspension
- Place a jack or stand under the axle or lower control arm to support the suspension and remove load from the shock.
- For front struts, have the jack under the lower control arm or coil spring area to control movement.
- Remove old shock (separate shock absorber style)
- Hold the upper stud or nut and remove the lower bolt first (or vice versa depending on access) while the suspension is supported.
- If a nut spins on the stud, use a wrench on the head or use locking pliers to hold it.
- Remove the upper nut/stud retainer and slide the shock down out of the mounts.
- Inspect mounting points for damage or rust.
- Remove old strut (if applicable)
- Use a spring compressor to safely compress the coil spring before removing the strut top nut.
- Remove top mounting nuts (often inside the engine bay or in wheel arch) then lower the strut out.
- Never attempt to disassemble a strut without compressing the spring.
- Inspect parts and prepare new shock
- Compare old shock to new to ensure correct length and mounting type.
- Transfer bump stop and dust boot or fit new ones.
- Replace any damaged bushings, mounts, or bolts.
- Install new shock/strut
- Fit the upper mount first (if top stud), loosely install the top nut to hold it in place (do not fully torque yet).
- Align the lower mount and insert the bolt; use new washers/nuts if provided.
- For struts, decompress spring slowly and make sure spring seats correctly before tightening top nut.
- Once both top and bottom are aligned, tighten hardware to manufacturer torque specs with a torque wrench.
- If you supported the axle with a jack, lower it so final load is on the suspension, then torque bolts to spec (this avoids preloading bushings).
- Reassembly
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
- Lower vehicle off the jack stands and final-torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
- Double-check all fasteners, make sure nothing is left loose.
- Final checks
- Check for leaks, make sure dust boots and bump stops are in place.
- Test-drive at low speed to check for noises and proper handling. Re-check torques after a short drive.

- Torque values and reference
- Always use the vehicle’s service manual for exact torque specs. If you don’t have one, look up the model/year online or on manufacturer sites. Common shock bolts often fall into moderate torque ranges — do not guess; undersize risks coming loose, oversize risks stripping threads.

- Common problems and fixes during the job
- Seized bolts: apply penetrating oil, wait, use breaker bar or impact wrench; if still seized, heat (carefully), or use extractor. Heat should not be used near rubber/dust boots or fuel lines.
- Strut spring under load: do not work without a certified spring compressor. If you don’t have one, buy a pre-assembled strut or have a shop press/compress it.
- Rounded nuts or bolts: use larger wrench or bolt extractor set. Replace damaged bolts.
- Rusted mounting holes: clean and wire-brush, use anti-seize on new bolts.

- Tips for a beginner
- Replace shocks in axle pairs for balanced ride.
- Take pictures before removal so you can remember orientation and part order.
- Keep old parts until you finish and verify there are no leaks or unusual noises.
- If the job looks beyond your comfort level (seized bolts, spring compressor work), have a shop handle removal/pressing to avoid injury.

- Quick checklist of parts to buy before starting
- Two matching shock absorbers (front pair or rear pair as needed) with correct part numbers.
- New mounting bushings, washers, nuts/bolts if old ones are corroded.
- Dust boots and bump stops if missing/damaged.
- Penetrating oil and possibly bolt extractors if hardware looks rusty.
- Optional: spring compressor if struts must be disassembled.

- Final safety reminder
- Never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Use the correct spring compressor for strut work — improvised tools are dangerous.
- If unsure at any point, stop and consult a shop.

This covers the tools, how to use them, why extra tools might be required, parts that commonly need replacing, and a safe procedure for replacing shocks on Toyota 2L/3L/5L vehicles.
rteeqp73

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