Goal: remove the transmission, replace the clutch disk/pressure plate and related wear items, reinstall and set up so the car shifts and drives properly. This guide is for Toyota L‑series 2L/3L/5L engines paired to their manual transmissions (procedures and parts are the same basic clutch system across many models). Read and follow it carefully. Use factory service manual torque specs for your exact model and year — I give typical ranges but confirm with your manual.

Safety first
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels, engage parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use quality jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection, gloves and use good lighting.
- Support the engine or transmission properly when removing the trans (engine support bar or floor jack under oil pan with wood block).
- Mark and bag fasteners so reassembly is straightforward.

High-level theory (why a clutch is needed and how it works)
- Purpose: The clutch connects and disconnects the engine (which is always spinning when running) from the gearbox so you can start from standstill, shift gears, and stop without killing the engine.
- Analogy: Think of two spinning plates (engine flywheel and transmission input shaft) with a friction disc sandwiched between them. The pressure plate clamps the disc to the flywheel to transfer torque; when you push the pedal the pressure plate moves away and the disc is released.
- Main components and roles:
- Flywheel: bolted to the engine crankshaft; flat surface that the clutch disc bears against. Also stores rotational inertia.
- Clutch disc (friction disc): splined to the transmission input shaft; friction material on both sides grips flywheel and pressure plate. Springs in the hub dampen driveline shock.
- Pressure plate: bolted to the flywheel; springs (diaphragm or coil) press the clutch disc against the flywheel. Fingers (diaphragm) are what the release bearing pushes.
- Release (throwout) bearing: rides on the transmission input shaft and presses the pressure plate fingers to disengage the clutch.
- Clutch fork (or release arm): lever that moves the release bearing when you press the pedal (actuated directly by cable or by hydraulic slave cylinder).
- Pilot bearing/bushing: small bearing or bronze bushing pressed into the flywheel or crank end that supports the transmission input shaft tip.
- Flywheel bolts, clutch bolts, dowel pins: hold and align components.
- Slave/master cylinder (hydraulic) or cable: actuates the clutch fork.
- Failures happen when friction material is worn/contaminated, springs break, bearings fail, flywheel warps/hotspots, or hydraulic/cable linkage leaks/stretch.

Parts to replace (recommended)
- Clutch disc
- Pressure plate (always replace with disc)
- Release (throwout) bearing
- Pilot bearing/bushing
- (Optional but recommended) Resurface or replace flywheel
- Clutch alignment tool (for installation)
- Any worn bellhousing dowels, pilot sleeve, release fork pivot, or clutch fork boot
- Replace hydraulic slave/master if leaking or old; fresh fluid and bleed if needed

Tools and supplies
- Basic automotive hand tools (wrench/socket sets up to 1/2" drive)
- Torque wrench
- Transmission jack or floor jack + block of wood
- Engine support bar or jack under engine
- Clutch alignment tool (or use the old input shaft carefully, but tool is better)
- Pry bars, rubber mallet
- Screwdrivers, pliers
- Drain pan, shop rags, brake cleaner
- Clean engine assembly lube or high-temp grease for splines and pilot
- Brake/clutch fluid (DOT 3/4 depending)
- New bolts if old ones are damaged/corroded (flywheel bolts are often stretch bolts)
- Anti-seize for alignment dowels (sparingly) — follow spec
- Replacement gaskets/seals if disturbed
- Factory service manual or torque chart

General torque ranges (confirm in manual)
- Pressure plate bolts: ~30–50 N·m (22–37 ft·lb) depending on model ➜ check manual
- Flywheel bolts: ~80–130 N·m (60–96 ft·lb) or torque + angle if specified
- Bellhousing/transmission bolts: ~40–90 N·m (30–66 ft·lb)
- Starter motor bolts: ~30–40 N·m (22–30 ft·lb)
Always verify exact numbers with your Toyota service manual.

Step-by-step procedure (compact but detailed)

1) Preparation and preliminary steps
- Park, chock, battery negative off.
- Put transmission in neutral. Raise vehicle and support on jackstands.
- Remove splash shields, exhaust only as needed for access.
- Drain transmission oil if needed for safe removal (not always required).
- Remove driveshaft (rear-wheel) or halfshafts (FWD) as applicable for your vehicle. Mark orientation for reinstallation.

2) Disconnect all external items from the transmission
- Remove starter motor (unbolt and unplug).
- Disconnect speedometer cable/sensor, shift linkage, reverse light switch wiring, clutch hydraulic line (if external) or cable where it attaches.
- Disconnect any wiring harnesses on bellhousing.
- Remove crossmember or transmission mount bolts. Support transmission with a jack under the case or use a transmission jack.

3) Support the engine
- If engine-trans mount supports rely on transmission, support engine with an engine hoist, or use a floor jack under oil pan with wood spreader (be careful). This prevents engine from tilting when trans is removed.

4) Remove the transmission
- Remove bolts that join bellhousing to engine (12-ish bolts depending on model). Keep bolts organized by length and location.
- Carefully separate transmission from engine. You may need to pry gently between bellhousing and engine, but avoid prying on mating surfaces. Move transmission back until input shaft clears clutch disc splines.
- Lower transmission with jack slowly; watch for hoses or wires still attached.

5) Inspect/remove clutch assembly
- With transmission out, inspect the flywheel, pressure plate and disc.
- Remove pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross/star pattern to release clues evenly (do a couple turns per bolt in sequence).
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Note orientation of disc (usually friction facing pressure plate/flywheel; a mark may show "flywheel side").
- Remove old pilot bearing from flywheel (use a puller or carefully punch it out). Clean bore.

6) Flywheel service
- Inspect flywheel for hot spots, cracks, scoring or warpage. Light scoring can often be resurfaced; heavy damage or cracks = replace.
- If resurfacing, use a machine shop; do not leave ragged edges or deep grooves.
- If you resurface, verify flywheel thickness and runout per manual.
- Clean flywheel mating surface with brake cleaner; do not contaminate with grease.

7) Replace pilot bearing, release bearing, and fork components
- Install new pilot bearing/bushing into crank/flywheel bore (press in straight).
- Replace release bearing: if it’s a sliding type, ensure it moves smoothly; push it over input shaft, grease per spec only on splines, not friction surfaces.
- Inspect and if necessary replace clutch fork, pivot ball/sleeve, and boot.

8) Install new clutch
- Use clutch alignment tool: position new disc on flywheel (note directional markings). Slide alignment tool through the disc into pilot to center it.
- Mount pressure plate over disc and start pressure plate bolts by hand.
- Tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern gradually to final torque (see manual). This centers the disc as bolts draw the pressure plate in evenly.
- Remove alignment tool; the disc should be centered on flywheel and allow transmission input shaft to slide in without forcing.

9) Reinstall transmission
- Clean input shaft; lightly grease splines (a thin smear — not excessive). Do not get grease on clutch disc friction material.
- Use transmission jack to raise transmission and carefully align input shaft to clutch spline/pilot bearing. You may need to wiggle the transmission slightly to engage splines.
- Once fully seated, reinstall bellhousing-to-engine bolts and tighten to spec in a cross pattern.
- Reinstall crossmember/mounts, starter, driveshaft/halfshafts, linkage, sensors, and wiring.

10) Bleed and adjust (hydraulic or cable)
- Hydraulic: refill master cylinder with correct fluid; bleed slave (pump pedal and open bleeder until no air).
- Cable: adjust according to manual for correct free play at pedal (usually a small free play before engagement).
- Check clutch pedal height and free play per spec.

11) Final checks
- Reconnect battery.
- With parking brake on, start engine and test engagement with wheels chocked: crank in gear? Should hold without slipping.
- Road test: check for slipping under load, chatter, noise, and smooth gear changes.
- After initial use, recheck torque on critical bolts (flywheel, pressure plate) after a few heat cycles per manual.

Common problems and how to avoid/fix them
- Misalignment of clutch disc (causes difficulty re-installing transmission, grinding/shifting issues): always use alignment tool and tighten pressure plate evenly.
- Contaminated disc (oil/grease on friction surface): results in slipping. Avoid getting grease on disc; inspect rear main seal and replace if leaking.
- Warped or glazed flywheel (shudder, grabbing, slipping): resurface or replace. Replace with matched flywheel if heavily worn.
- Broken pressure plate springs or weak diaphragm (slipping under torque): replace pressure plate.
- Faulty release bearing (noise when pedal depressed): replace bearing and inspect fork.
- Pilot bearing failed (noise when clutch depressed, vibration): replace pilot bearing.
- Hydraulic issues: spongy pedal or incomplete disengage — bleed system, replace leaking master/slave.
- Incorrect bolt torque or loose bolts: can cause clutch slip, hot-spotting, or thrown bolts. Use correct torque sequence and values.
- Damaged transmission input shaft splines or worn splines can cause slipping or uneven engagement — inspect and replace if bathed in metal.
- Using wrong clutch (single vs dual mass, wrong preload) will give poor drivability — use correct part number.

Tips and best practices
- Replace the whole kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot) — mixing new and old parts often causes early failure.
- Keep friction surfaces clean; don’t touch disc surfaces with greasy hands.
- When removing bolts, mark location and length. Use thread locker on bolts if manual specifies.
- Use proper lifting equipment — transmissions are heavy and dangerous to drop.
- If unsure about flywheel condition, get it inspected/resurfaced by a machine shop.
- After reassembly, allow a brief break-in period: avoid heavy towing and aggressive launches for first few hundred km/miles.

Troubleshooting after reassembly (quick guide)
- Clutch slips under load: likely contaminated disc, glazed flywheel, weak pressure plate, or wrong pedal adjustment. Check for oil leaks, inspect flywheel/clutch.
- Clutch drags (won’t fully disengage): check pedal free play, hydraulic bleed, release bearing movement, bent fork, misadjusted cable.
- Chatter/vibration on takeoff: contaminated/clawed disc, warped flywheel, or broken dampers in disc hub.
- Noisy when pedal pressed: worn/incorrect release bearing or fork pivot.
- Difficulty shifting into gear when warm: misadjusted hydraulics/cable or warped flywheel.

Estimated time and difficulty
- For a beginner with a helper and appropriate tools: allow 8–12 hours the first time (removing exhaust, driveshafts, etc.). Experienced techs do it in 3–6 hours. Difficulty: moderate to high — requires lifting transmission and careful alignment.

Final note
Follow your specific Toyota service manual for exact bolt sizes, torque specs, and any model‑specific steps. Replacing the clutch is a mechanical job that rewards patience and careful inspection — replace wear items together, use correct tools (alignment tool, torque wrench) and follow safety practices.

That’s the complete, practical rundown — theory, components, prep, step‑by‑step removal and installation, what goes wrong, and how to avoid it.
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