Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + jack stands (rated for vehicle weight) + wheel chocks
- Metric socket/impact set (10–24 mm typical), breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to at least 100 ft·lb / 135 N·m)
- Coil spring compressor rated for automotive struts (two-jaw or clamp type made for strut coils)
- Strut nut socket/thin-wall socket or open-end to hold strut shaft if required
- Hex/Allen set (if strut shaft uses hex)
- Pry bar, small dead-blow hammer, punch
- Needle-nose pliers, ratchet extensions
- Penetrating oil, rags, anti-seize or thread locker (per OEM)
- New strut mount(s) and bearing(s), dust boot and bump stop (recommended)
- Gloves, eye protection

Safety first (very important)
- Work on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use jack stands under specified lift points.
- Use a purpose-built spring compressor. Incorrect or improvised compressors are extremely dangerous.
- Wear eye protection and gloves when compressing springs or releasing tension.
- Keep bystanders away while compressing springs. Compress slowly and evenly.
- If a spring compressor feels unstable or bends, stop and replace the tool.

Parts required (recommended)
- New strut mount / top mount (includes bearing on front MacPherson struts)
- New dust boot and bump stop (rubber deteriorates)
- Replace struts in pairs if leaking/damaged; replace mounts in pairs for even wear
- New top nut for strut rod (many manufacturers recommend new nut)

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Preparation
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.
- Loosen, but do not remove, three (usually) upper strut tower nuts in engine bay a few turns only — JUST enough so top won’t be binding when you remove lower bolts. (This prevents strut dropping unexpectedly.)

2) Raise vehicle and remove wheel
- Jack vehicle at manufacturer lift point, support on jack stands.
- Remove wheel.

3) Disconnect components that attach to the strut
- Remove or unclip ABS sensor/line and brake hose brackets from the strut.
- Disconnect sway bar end link from the strut/suspension if it attaches there.
- If caliper removal is necessary for access, unbolt caliper and hang it with wire (do NOT let it hang on brake hose).
- Remove any stabilizer or brake line brackets preventing strut removal.

4) Unbolt lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners
- Support the hub/knuckle assembly with a small jack so it does not fall when bolts are removed.
- Remove the two large bolts/nuts securing the strut to the steering knuckle. You may need penetrating oil and a breaker bar or impact. Be prepared to use a punch to drive out stubborn bolts.

5) Remove strut assembly
- With hub supported and lower bolts removed, go under the hood and remove the remaining upper strut tower nuts.
- Carefully lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well. Keep the assembly upright — coil is under tension from spring; handle with care.

6) Compress the spring
- Secure the strut assembly in a vise or lay it upright on a stable surface.
- Fit the spring compressor: place two compressors opposite each other on adjacent coils as near the spring ends as possible. For cup-type compressors, set cups at coil laps per tool instructions.
- Tighten compressors gradually and evenly, alternating sides, until spring is sufficiently compressed to relieve load on the strut shaft and the strut top nut is accessible.
- Verify compressor tightness and stability before proceeding.

How to use the spring compressor (details)
- Use the compressor exactly as the tool manual instructs: one turn on side A, then side B, alternate. Tighten until the gap between the top coil turns is closed enough that the top hat and strut rod are unweighted.
- Do not over-compress beyond design limits. Keep compressor bolts parallel to spring coils to prevent slippage.
- Never get your head or body over the spring while compressing or releasing.

7) Disassemble the strut
- Remove the nut on top of the strut rod (hold rod with hex/strut-nut holder to prevent rotation if needed).
- Remove top mount, bearing, washer, dust boot, and bump stop. Inspect strut for leaks or damaged shaft; replace entire strut if leaking or damaged.

8) Fit new mount and components
- Install new bump stop and dust boot (new parts recommended).
- Install new bearing/mount assembly onto the strut rod in correct orientation (bearing faces wheel direction — many mounts have a bearing that must face correct way; check part marking).
- Thread the new top nut on and snug but do not fully torque until strut is installed and spring released to seat the mount.

9) Decompress spring
- Slowly and evenly release the spring compressor a turn-at-a-time, alternating sides, until the spring seats correctly on the lower spring perch and the top mount seats under the tower plate.
- Confirm spring is correctly seated at both top and bottom and the bearing rotates freely if applicable.

10) Reinstall strut assembly into vehicle
- Position strut assembly into wheelwell, start and hand-tighten the upper strut tower nuts to hold it.
- Align strut lower mount with steering knuckle and install lower bolts/nuts. Torque lower bolts to OEM specifications (see notes).
- Reattach sway bar link, brake lines, ABS sensor brackets and any removed components. Reinstall and torque upper strut nuts to OEM specification.

11) Final steps
- Re-install wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Re-torque lower strut-to-knuckle hardware and top mount nuts after initial settling if recommended by OEM.
- Take vehicle for professional alignment after strut work.

Tool-specific notes
- Torque wrench: use to final-tighten all suspension fasteners. Set to manufacturer torque values; do not substitute hand-tight.
- Impact driver: fine for removing stubborn bolts, but use torque wrench for final tightening.
- Spring compressor: biggest safety item. Use approved compressor for coil springs; cup-style compressors used for most MacPherson coils. Keep load even, and keep entire compressed spring assembly between two strong supports.

Typical pitfalls to avoid
- Using improper or homemade spring compressors — catastrophic failure risk.
- Re-using worn strut mounts or bearings — causes noise and premature failure. Replace mounts and bearings in pairs.
- Not supporting the hub/knuckle before removing lower bolts — can damage brake lines or CV joints.
- Not disconnecting sway bar links or brake hose brackets — causes misalignment or torn lines.
- Using impact to final-tighten suspension fasteners — always use torque wrench to OEM specs.
- Failing to do alignment after replacing struts/mounts — causes uneven tire wear and handling issues.
- Forgetting to transfer/new dust boots/bump stops — leads to early strut failure.
- Not seating the spring correctly when decompressing — can cause spring to shift and pinch bearings or damage mount.

Torque & specification note
- Fastener sizes and torque values vary by model/year. Always verify OEM torque figures in the vehicle’s service manual. If you cannot access the manual, typical ranges:
- Upper strut mount nuts: hand-tight to 30–60 N·m (check manual)
- Lower strut-to-knuckle bolts: 80–120 N·m (check manual)
- Wheel lug nuts: 100–140 N·m (check wheel spec)
- When in doubt, consult Toyota service manual for the specific 2L/3L/5L vehicle year and chassis.

Finish
- Replace both front mounts at same time for balanced ride.
- Test drive gently to confirm no noises, then re-check fasteners and alignment.

No more yapping.
rteeqp73

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