Quick, professional procedure for repairing/rebuilding the torque‑converter lock‑up clutch on Toyota vehicles with 2L / 3L / 5L engines. This is written as a universal A‑series automatic transmission process (the internal layout varies by gearbox model). Follow the factory service manual for exact torque values and any transmission‑model specifics.

Required tools and consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets (6–24 mm), extensions, ratchets, box wrenches.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 150 Nm / 110 ft‑lb).
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with transmission cradle.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if needed to support engine when trans removed).
- Drain pan and funnels.
- Seal driver set and appropriate diameter sockets.
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal & external).
- Slide hammer / bearing puller (for bushings/pilot bearing if required).
- Snap/retaining ring pliers.
- Press or vise with soft jaws (for pressing bearings or hubs).
- Torque converter holding tool (or large screwdriver/strap wrench + helper) to prevent rotation when removing internal assembly nut.
- Clean bench, solvent (transmission cleaner), lint‑free rags, compressed air.
- Inspection light, magnifier.
- New torque converter rebuild kit or new torque converter (friction plates, seals, piston seals, O‑rings, snap rings) — typically better to replace entire converter unless experienced with balancing.
- New transmission fluid (correct ATF type for your gearbox), filter and pan gasket.
- RTV gasket (if required).
- Sealant, thread locker (per manual), safety gloves and eye protection.

Safety precautions (non‑negotiable)
- Work on flat level ground. Use wheel chocks.
- Support vehicle on quality jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Use a transmission jack for removing the gearbox. The assembly is heavy and awkward.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Transmission fluid is slippery — clean spills immediately.
- Mark everything (wiring, linkages, bolt locations) before disconnecting. Take photos.
- Keep dirt out. Work in a clean area and cap openings immediately.
- If removing torque converter internals, be aware they are balanced as an assembly — do not remove weight/balance weights. If you strip or change parts that affect balance, replace the converter.

Diagnosis (confirming lock‑up clutch issue)
- Symptoms: harsh / clunky engagement at high speed, shudder under lock‑up, slipping and overheating, no lock‑up (poor fuel economy), DTCs for TCC solenoid or clutch.
- Scan for codes. Check TCC solenoid continuity/resistance and wiring.
- Road test and try to command TCC on with scanner. Note RPM behavior.
- Static hydraulic/line pressure check (preferred) before teardown. Low apply pressure or faulty TCC regulator/valve can mimic clutch wear.

Step‑by‑step repair overview
High level: Remove transmission → remove torque converter from transmission → disassemble torque converter or replace → replace seals/plates → reassemble → reinstall transmission → test.

1) Preparation and drain
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Drain ATF from transmission pan into clean pan. Remove pan and filter — this saves fluid leakage when removing transmission and is good service practice.
- Label and disconnect electrical connectors, speedometer cable/sensor, kick‑down/shift linkage, starter (if needed), driveshaft(s), and any lines that attach to the bellhousing/transmission.
- Support engine if required and support transmission with trans jack.

2) Remove transmission from vehicle
- Remove torque converter access cover if present.
- Unbolt flexplate (engine flywheel) access cover if needed.
- Remove starter to access converter bolts.
- Support transmission with trans jack, remove crossmember and mount bolts.
- Remove bellhousing bolts to engine (mark position). Slowly separate transmission from engine; pull back carefully until torque converter blind‑bolts are visible.
- While supporting converter with hand/strap via transmission jack or helper, remove the torque converter to flexplate bolts (often 3–4 bolts). Tip: rotate engine to access each bolt through access hole; keep bolts organized by position.
- Carefully slide the transmission rearwards off input shaft enough to disengage from bellhousing, then lower transmission with the jack.

How to remove torque converter from engine/flexplate
- After transmission pulled back a short distance, remove the flexplate bolts while supporting the torque converter with a strap/hand from behind the engine or using an engine hoist because it will drop out when bolts are removed.
- Pull converter free of crank pilot carefully — it can be heavy; keep it upright to avoid spilling fluid.

3) Prepare for disassembly of torque converter
- Clean exterior. Clamp converter in a vise with soft jaws or mount on bench cradle. Place a drain pan under converter and drain remaining fluid by removing plug (if present) or small opening. Keep clean.
- Use a torque converter holding tool or strap to hold the input hub when removing the central hub nut or retaining component. Many units have snap‑rings and a clutch piston retained by circlips and snap rings.

4) Disassembly (general method)
- Remove retaining snap rings or circlips with snap‑ring pliers. Note orientation and order of parts precisely.
- Slide off any external housings or bolts holding the front cover. Keep parts in order.
- Carefully remove the lock‑up clutch piston (the apply piston) and its friction plates and steel plates. Lay them out in order.
- Remove seals and O‑rings with a seal puller. Do not scratch mating surfaces.
- Inspect springs, friction material, plates for wear, glazing, broken splines. Check for scoring on bore of piston and body, melted friction, or metal contamination (indicates internal gearbox debris).
- If friction plates are worn beyond spec, or if clutch piston or drum is scored, replace with rebuild kit or install new torque converter. Most techs recommend replacing the torque converter rather than attempting press rebuild unless you have a proven kit and balancing capability.

How to use specific tools during disassembly
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress ring to remove without losing it.
- Seal driver: install new lip seals and dust seals without rolling lips.
- Press or vise (soft jaws): press out stubborn hubs/bushings; support parts on full face to avoid distortion.
- Bearing puller/slide hammer: remove pressed‑in bushings or bearings from pump or converter hub if required.
- Torque converter holding tool or strap wrench: prevent rotation while loosening internal retaining nut.

Parts to replace
- Torque converter rebuild kit: friction plates, steels, piston seals, O‑rings, snap rings, bushings as listed in kit.
- TCC solenoid (if externally accessible or part of valve body), valve body gasket, filter, ATF.
- Seal for front pump shaft and pilot bushing if damaged.
- Flexplate bolts (recommend replacing self‑locking bolts), transmission pan gasket, filter.

Reassembly
- Clean all parts with solvent and compressed air. Blow out oil passages.
- Install new seals with seal driver, apply thin film of ATF on all friction and seals.
- Stack friction plates and steels exactly in the original order and orientation. Use the same number of plates and make sure they are not reversed.
- Reinstall piston and springs per original order. Fit snap rings to specification.
- Rotate and check piston movement and clearance. Check radial and axial clearances against manual.
- Torque any internal nuts to the factory specification; use threadlocker if specified.

Important note on balancing
- Torque converters are balanced as a complete assembly. If you replace or significantly alter internal parts or change the converter’s rotating mass, the balance will be affected. If you suspect balance is compromised, replace the entire converter or have it professionally balanced.

Reinstallation into vehicle
- Clean flexplate mating surface and engine pilot. Apply new bolts or recommended threadlocker as per manual.
- Position torque converter on input shaft and rotate until it engages fully into the transmission pump/front pump gear. You should feel several distinct “engagements” and the converter should seat a certain distance into the bellhousing (refer to manual).
- Tighten converter to flexplate/flywheel with bolts to the torque specified in the manual. Use torque wrench and follow star pattern. Check access hole and starter engagement.
- Reinstall transmission onto engine, aligning dowels, and tighten bellhousing bolts to spec.
- Reconnect mounts, linkages, wiring, driveshaft(s).
- Refill with recommended ATF; run engine and cycle through gears to prime converter and pump. Check for leaks.

Testing and bench/road checks
- With engine warm, verify line pressure and TCC apply pressure with a gauge where applicable.
- Use a scan tool to command torque converter clutch on/off and monitor lock‑up status and RPM. Check for TCC pressure and slip.
- Road test: accelerate to lock‑up speed and back off, observe for shudder or slip. Check for codes again.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not supporting the converter/gearbox: can cause injury and damage. Always support with trans jack and straps.
- Losing or mixing up small parts (snap rings, shims): lay parts out in order and photograph.
- Reusing worn seals or friction plates: leads to repeat failure — replace kits.
- Installing plates reversed or incorrect orientation: causes immediate failure — follow manual and original layout closely.
- Not replacing flexplate/converter bolts or using wrong grade bolts: can shear and wreck the transmission. Use new bolts and torque properly.
- Allowing dirt/metal shavings into converter or transmission during assembly: leads to premature failure. Keep everything clean.
- Not checking TCC solenoid/electrical/valve body first: sometimes the problem is hydraulic or electrical, not friction material.
- Not filling with correct fluid or not cycling to bleed converter: leads to noise and poor lubrication.
- Rebalancing issues: modifying or rebuilding converter internally without balancing facility risks vibration and damage.

When to replace rather than rebuild
- Heavy scoring, large metal contamination, damaged pump teeth, or if converter shows signs of catastrophic failure — replace the entire torque converter.
- If you cannot obtain a full rebuild kit or cannot verify post‑rebuild balance — replace.

Final notes
- Always cross‑reference the exact transmission model in your vehicle and follow the factory service manual for torque values, clearances, and specific procedures (e.g., number of plates, snap‑ring orientation).
- If uncertain about internal balancing or machining requirements, fit a new or remanufactured converter — it’s often cheaper than repeat labor.

That’s the full step‑by‑step outline — follow the factory manual for torque specs and detailed dimension checks.
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What is SHIM, VALVE ADJUSTING in Toyota engine years 1992 to 2002 What is SHIM, VALVE GAP Clearance ADJUSTING in Toyota engine years 1992 to 2002 This engine is from Camry 2.2 L 5S-FE ...

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