Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: 8, 10, 12 mm sockets and ratchet, extension, 10 mm open/box wrench
- Torque wrench (0–50 Nm range)
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, small pick set
- Pliers (hose clamp & needle-nose)
- Clean lint-free rags, disposable gloves, eye protection
- Throttle-body / intake cleaner (safe for sensors)
- Soft-bristled nylon brush or brass brush (non-ferrous)
- Small vacuum/air line caps or tape to seal removed hoses
- Replacement throttle body-to-intake gasket (OEM or equivalent) and o‑rings if fitted
- Replacement fasteners if corroded, and new hose clamps
- Multimeter for TPS testing
- Penetrating oil (for stuck bolts)
- Optional: small parts tray, shop light

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work on a cool engine. Hot aluminum/intake parts will burn you.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before disconnecting sensors/electrical connectors.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Throttle-body cleaner is harmful to skin/eyes.
- Work in a well-ventilated area; fumes are flammable and toxic.
- Keep rags and solvent away from open flames and hot surfaces.
- If the vehicle has turbo plumbing or pressurized lines, relieve pressure and cap openings immediately.

Procedure — remove, inspect, clean, reinstall
1. Prep
- Park on level ground, set parking brake. Chock wheels if necessary.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal and wait 1–2 minutes.
- Note or photograph routing of intake hoses, vacuum lines and throttle cable(s) for correct reassembly.

2. Access & disconnect
- Remove air cleaner housing and intake resonator to expose throttle body. Loosen hose clamps and remove intake hose between airbox and throttle body.
- Label and disconnect all vacuum hoses and breather hoses attached to the throttle body or adjoining plenum. Cap hoses to avoid contamination.
- Disconnect electrical connectors: TPS, idle air control (if present), MAP sensor or other sensors on or near the body. Use the locking tab and a small screwdriver if needed.
- If cable-actuated: unhook throttle cable from throttle lever. Note cable routing and return spring orientation. If drive-by-wire: do not pry on connector pins; handle connector only.

3. Unbolt throttle body
- Spray penetrating oil on bolts if corroded, let soak briefly.
- Remove mounting bolts (typically 4). Use proper socket, keep bolts in a tray in order.
- Carefully separate throttle body from intake manifold. Wiggle gently; do not force—check for studs or dowels. Have new gasket ready.

4. Inspection
- Inspect mating surfaces for carbon, gasket residue, warping, cracks.
- Check throttle shaft for wear, endplay, and binding. Operate butterfly by hand; it should move smoothly and return under spring tension. Any binding or heavy sludge indicates need for rebuild or replacement.
- Inspect vacuum ports and check condition of vacuum hoses. Replace brittle or cracked hoses.
- Inspect sensors (TPS, idle valve) for external damage.

5. Cleaning (do not submerge electrical parts)
- Hold throttle body in a clean area.
- Spray throttle-body cleaner onto carbon deposits and wipe with a rag. For heavy carbon on the butterfly edge and bore, use a soft nylon or brass brush to loosen deposits, then wipe and repeat spraying until clean.
- Clean inside edges carefully; do not gouge or score mating surfaces. Do not spray cleaner directly into electrical connectors. If idle control valve is removable, follow service manual for separate cleaning.
- Clean mating surfaces and remove old gasket material completely using a plastic scraper or shop towel soaked in cleaner. Do not use steel scrapers that can gouge.

6. Sensor checks & reassembly prep
- Test TPS with multimeter: check that voltage (or resistance depending on type) changes smoothly as the throttle moves and has no dead spots. Replace TPS if jumpy or out of spec.
- Replace throttle body gasket and any O-rings. New gasket is recommended—never reuse a crushed rubber/soft gasket.
- Lightly lubricate throttle shaft pivot points with small amount of engine-safe lubricant only if specified by manufacturer; generally unnecessary if clean and dry.

7. Reinstall
- Position new gasket and fit throttle body onto manifold. Align dowels, start bolts by hand.
- Torque mounting bolts to manufacturer spec. If spec unavailable, torque evenly in a crisscross pattern to approx. 8–12 Nm (6–9 ft‑lb) for small bolts—avoid overtightening. Use actual Toyota spec if available.
- Reattach throttle cable, ensure correct freeplay and return spring orientation. For cable systems, set freeplay per service manual (light freeplay at pedal).
- Reconnect all vacuum lines, breather hoses and electrical connectors securely.
- Reinstall intake hose and airbox, tighten clamps.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.

8. Startup & checks
- With ignition ON (do not start), the ECU may perform a throttle/idle learning routine; wait a few seconds.
- Start engine and check for air/vacuum leaks (hissing, unstable idle). If idle high/low, look for disconnected hoses or intake leaks.
- Verify TPS signal and idle control function—no error lights. Clear any stored ECU codes with a scan tool if necessary.
- Allow engine to reach operating temp and perform an idle relearn if required by engine (if no automatic relearn, follow Toyota procedure: typically key ON/engine OFF cycles and idle for set times — consult manual).
- Road test and observe throttle response, idle stability and absence of limp-home mode.

How each tool is used (brief)
- Socket set & ratchet: remove bolts and clamps; use correct socket size to avoid rounding heads.
- Torque wrench: final tightening of throttle body bolts to prevent leaks or stripped threads.
- Screwdrivers & pliers: remove hose clamps, pry out vacuum lines gently.
- Multimeter: measure TPS voltage/resistance while slowly moving throttle; expect smooth linear change.
- Throttle-body cleaner & brush: dissolve carbon. Spray, scrub lightly, wipe. Avoid hard scraping or wire bristles that could scratch bore.
- Penetrating oil: frees seized bolts—apply, wait, then remove.
- Caps/tape: prevent dirt ingress on open vacuum or intake openings.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Throttle body-to-intake gasket (always replace)
- Vacuum hoses and hose clamps (if cracked/corroded)
- TPS (if out-of-spec or damaged)
- Idle air control valve or actuator (if removable and nonfunctional)
- Mounting bolts/studs (if corroded)
- Full throttle body replacement if shaft is worn, bore scored, or butterfly assembly damaged

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not disconnecting battery before touching sensors — can cause electrical damage or DTCs.
- Reusing old gasket — leads to vacuum leaks.
- Over-cleaning or using metal brushes that score the bore or butterfly.
- Forcing or bending wiring connectors / damaging sensor pins.
- Not capping open vacuum/intake openings — contaminates engine.
- Over-tightening bolts (stripped aluminum threads) or under-torquing causing vacuum leaks.
- Forgetting to re-route throttle cable or springs — can cause binding or runaway throttle.
- Not performing idle/ECU relearn — results in unstable idle or limp mode.
- Ignoring cracked vacuum lines upstream of throttle body — leaks will mimic throttle problems.

When to replace the entire throttle body
- Excessive shaft wear, heavy scoring in bore, seized/immovable butterfly, or electronic actuator failure that cannot be serviced. If TPS or IAC are integrated and fail, replacement assembly may be required.

Final notes
- Use OEM or high-quality replacement gaskets/sensors.
- If the vehicle shows persistent fault codes after service, use a diagnostic scanner to read and clear codes and follow specific Toyota relearn procedures if required.
- If unsure about torque specs or electrical test values for TPS/IAC, refer to the factory service manual for the 2H / 12H‑T engine or a trusted repair database.

Done.
rteeqp73

Rebuilt 12HT engine START UP / Toyota Landcruiser Turbo Diesel engine swap + rebuild Installing a freshly rebuilt Toyota JDM 12HT Turbo Diesel into a North American HJ60 Toyota Landcruiser. HJ60 originally come ...

Rebuilt 12HT engine START UP / Toyota Landcruiser Turbo Diesel engine swap + rebuild Installing a freshly rebuilt Toyota JDM 12HT Turbo Diesel into a North American HJ60 Toyota Landcruiser. HJ60 originally come ...

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