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Toyota 2H and 12H-T digital engine factory workshop and repair manual

1) Theory — what the solenoid pack does
- Automatic transmission shifting is achieved by directing pressurized ATF through valves to apply/release clutch packs.
- Solenoids are electromechanical valves: the TCM/ECU energizes coils, moving an internal plunger that opens or closes fluid paths.
- Types: shift solenoids (select clutch circuits), pressure-control (regulates main/line pressure), torque‑converter lockup solenoid, and on/off valves.
- Failure modes: open/shorted coil (electrical), sticking plunger (mechanical/contamination), internal leakage (worn seat), or wiring/connector faults. Fault symptoms: no/harsh/erratic shifts, stuck gear, slip, limp mode, diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
- Replacing the solenoid pack restores the intended electrical control and hydraulic sealing/function so valves move and pressure is routed correctly, returning proper clutch engagement and shift timing.

2) Preparatory diagnosis (ordered)
1. Read/record DTCs and freeze frame with scan tool. Note solenoid/pressure-related codes.
2. Visual/wiring check: inspect connectors, pins, insulation, and harness for corrosion or shorts. Repair if present.
3. Measure solenoid coil resistance and compare to factory spec (if spec not available, note relative differences between identical solenoids). Check for open/short.
4. Perform activation test with scan tool (command solenoids ON/OFF) while monitoring response/pressure if possible.
5. Pressure test (if available): measure line/regulated pressure to identify stuck/throttled valve. If tests indicate internal valve/coil failure, plan pack replacement.

3) Parts & tools
- Correct replacement solenoid pack or valve body assembly and new gasket/strainer filter/O-ring kit.
- Clean shop rags, ATF of correct type and quantity, drain pan.
- Basic metric sockets/wrenches, torque wrench, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Multimeter, scan tool with solenoid activation, pump/pressure gauge if available.
- Jack stands or lift, safety glasses, gloves.
- Service manual for vehicle-specific bolt torque and fluid capacity.

4) Safety & preparation
1. Work on level surface, set parking brake, chock wheels.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid unintended TCM outputs.
3. Allow engine to cool; transmission can be hot.

5) Step-by-step replacement (in order)
1. Warm up vehicle to normal operating temperature (ATF drains better), then shut off.
2. Drain ATF: remove drain plug or loosen pan bolts; collect fluid.
3. Remove transmission oil pan completely. Inspect pan for metal particles—note clutch material severity.
4. Remove transmission filter/strainer (discard). Some designs require removing bolts holding valve body to access solenoid pack—follow vehicle layout.
5. Disconnect all solenoid electrical connectors. Mark positions to avoid cross-connection.
6. If replacing only the solenoid pack module: remove retaining bolts securing the pack/cover and lift the pack out. If replacing whole valve body, remove valve body bolts and carefully lower valve body (support it).
7. Inspect valve bores and mating surfaces; clean any debris with lint-free cloth and appropriate solvent. Do not let dirt enter transmission.
8. Install new solenoid pack/valve body subassembly using new gaskets/O‑rings. Ensure sealing surfaces are clean and sealants (if any) per manual.
9. Torque bolts to factory specifications in the specified sequence (refer to manual). Incorrect torque or sequencing can warp valve body and cause leaks or malfunction.
10. Reinstall new filter/strainer. Refit transmission pan with new gasket; torque pan bolts to spec.
11. Reconnect all electrical connectors to solenoids and any pressure switches. Ensure locking tabs engage.
12. Reconnect negative battery cable.

6) Refill, adapt, verify (in order)
1. Refill ATF to the approximate level per manual (usually fill via dipstick tube or fill plug). Do not overfill.
2. Start engine, check for leaks at pan and connectors. With engine idling and parking brake on, shift through gears slowly (or follow the manual’s ATF level/check procedure) and set fluid level at correct temperature and level.
3. Use scan tool to clear codes and perform solenoid activation/TCM relearn or adaptive reset if required by the vehicle. Many modern TCMs perform automatic relearn after a drive cycle; some require a manual adaptation routine.
4. Road test: verify correct shift timing, firmness, and absence of codes. Re-scan for DTCs.
5. Re-check fluid level after road test and top up if necessary.

7) How the repair fixes the fault — brief, precise
- Electrical: replacing a burnt/open/shorted solenoid coil restores controllable impedance, so the TCM can energize the valve and change fluid paths.
- Mechanical/hydraulic: replacing a sticking or leaking solenoid/plunger or its seals restores the valve’s ability to open/close precisely, preventing internal leakage that causes insufficient clutch pressure or unintended circuits.
- System-level: restoring correct solenoid function returns regulated line pressures and timed clutch applications, correcting shift quality, eliminating limp-mode triggers, and clearing related DTCs.

8) Post-repair checks to ensure root cause fixed
- Confirm wiring/connectors were the issue only if pre-repair wiring tests were passed; otherwise re-check harness after repair.
- Monitor for recurrence of metal debris in pan—persistent contamination indicates internal wear beyond solenoids and may require deeper transmission overhaul.
- Verify TCM codes remain clear and pressure regulation/shift timing are within normal parameters.

9) Notes and cautions (concise)
- Always use correct ATF type — wrong fluid changes friction characteristics and can hide/fail to fix problems.
- Never mix used/new filters or omit gaskets.
- Do not guess torque values — use factory specs.
- If pressure regulator or valve body bores are scored, solenoid replacement alone may not cure leakage.

End.
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