- Important safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and keep loose clothing/jewelry away from moving parts.
- Work with the engine cold or safely supported; disconnect the battery negative terminal before touching electrical components.
- If working on a diesel injection pump (12H‑T/2H side‑mounted pump styles), be aware of high‑precision timing and fuel system contamination risks — catch fuel spills and clean up immediately.

- What this guide covers (brief)
- Removal, inspection, basic replacement, and installation of a distributor (ignition distributor on petrol engines or distributor‑type fuel pump on some H‑series diesels). Diesel distributor‑type injection pumps require greater precision — see the “diesel timing” bullets below.

- Tools you need (with detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Metric socket set (8–24 mm, 6‑point preferred)
- Description: Ratchet sockets that fit hex nuts/bolts. Get both shallow and deep sockets.
- How to use: Select the correct socket size for the fastener, push onto ratchet drive, place squarely on fastener, pull handle to loosen and push to tighten. Use extensions for recessed fasteners.
- Why: Distributor housings and clamp bolts are metric; deep sockets help reach recessed nuts.
- Ratchet wrench(s) and extensions
- Description: 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" drive ratchets, plus 3–6" extensions and a universal joint.
- How to use: Use appropriate drive for the socket. Extensions increase reach; universal joint allows angle access.
- Why: Accessing distributor clamp bolts and hard‑to‑reach bolts requires reach and articulation.
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–100 Nm range)
- Description: Click‑type or beam torque wrench to tighten fasteners to specified torque.
- How to use: Set required torque, tighten bolt slowly until wrench clicks (or read beam).
- Why: Distributor clamp and cap screws often require specific torque to avoid leaks or misalignment.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: Standard hand screwdrivers.
- How to use: Use the correct size tip to avoid stripping screws; apply steady pressure.
- Why: To remove wiring clips, small screws on cap or module.
- Pliers: Needle‑nose and slip‑joint
- Description: Needle‑nose for fine work, slip‑joint for gripping/holding.
- How to use: Grip small clips/wires with needle‑nose; use slip‑joint for hose clamps.
- Why: Removing wire clips, vacuum lines, and connectors.
- Distributor puller (specific gear/shaft puller) or small gear puller
- Description: Two‑ or three‑jaw puller or a dedicated distributor puller that bolts to the distributor flange and pushes the shaft out.
- How to use: Bolt puller to distributor flange, align center forcing screw with shaft, tighten forcing screw slowly to pull distributor straight out.
- Why: The distributor drive gear/shaft can be tight; using a puller avoids damaging the housing or shaft. If you don’t use one you risk bending or twisting the shaft.
- Soft‑face mallet and drift punch (brass or hardwood)
- Description: Rubber/soft mallet and a non‑marring drift to tap components gently.
- How to use: Use the soft mallet to tap the distributor free if only light persuasion is needed; use a drift to align dowel pins during installation.
- Why: For gentle persuasion without damaging parts.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) and rags
- Description: Lubricant to free seized bolts and rags for cleanup.
- How to use: Spray on stuck bolts, wait 10–15 minutes, then try to loosen.
- Why: Old bolts often seize from corrosion.
- Timing light (for petrol ignition distributors)
- Description: Inductive timing light that clamps on the #1 spark plug wire and flashes to mark timing.
- How to use: Clamp to #1 wire, start engine, point light at harmonic balancer timing marks, adjust distributor so timing mark equals specified degrees.
- Why: Accurate ignition timing requires a timing light.
- Dial gauge and/or degree wheel and crank socket (for diesel injection pump timing)
- Description: Dial indicator measures crank or pump timing; degree wheel mounts to crank pulley for precise angular reference.
- How to use: Mount degree wheel to crank bolt, set pointer to TDC, use dial gauge to measure piston TDC or injection event per service manual.
- Why: Diesel distributor‑type injection pumps need exact timing to engine TDC/injection advance — often beyond a timing light’s capability.
- Feeler gauges (if setting points on old ignition distributors)
- Description: Thin metal blades of known thickness.
- How to use: Insert correct thickness between points to set gap.
- Why: Mechanical breaker points require a precise gap.
- Small pick set and gasket scraper
- Description: Picks for O‑rings, scraper for old gasket.
- How to use: Use picks to remove O‑rings and scraper to clean old sealant without gouging surfaces.
- Why: Clean mating surfaces prevent leaks.
- Replacement seals and small parts kit on hand (see parts section)
- Description: Distributor O‑ring, front oil seal, cap screws, cap/rotor (ignition) or pump delivery valve seals (diesel).
- How to use: Replace per instructions; lubricate seals lightly and install squarely.
- Why: Old seals leak oil/fuel and degrade performance.

- Basic removal steps (generalized for most distributors) — read and follow the order
- Disconnect negative battery terminal and label/photograph wiring connections so you can reattach correctly.
- Mark the rotor position relative to the distributor housing and the engine case with a paint pen or scribe so you can reinstall close to original timing.
- Remove distributor cap (unplug spark plug wires one at a time and label them if petrol) and inspect cap and rotor for corrosion, cracks, or carbon tracking.
- Unplug any electrical connectors (pickup coil, vacuum advance, idle stop solenoid) and remove vacuum lines; plug lines to prevent dirt ingress.
- Loosen the distributor clamp bolt(s) and remove any hold‑down bracket.
- If the distributor won’t lift out, use penetrating oil around the base and a distributor puller. Bolt the puller to the flange and tighten the forcing screw until the distributor lifts straight out. Do not pry aggressively; the drive shaft gear and housing can be damaged.
- Inspect the drive gear, shaft, and bottom of distributor for scoring, metal chips, or excessive wear.

- Basic installation steps
- Clean mating surfaces and remove old gasket/sealant; place new O‑ring or paper gasket if provided. Lightly lubricate the distributor shaft with engine oil.
- Align the rotor to the same mark you made during removal; fit distributor into the engine at the same rotational angle used during removal so drive gear meshes without forcing. The rotor may need to be rotated slightly to engage gears — do this carefully by hand only.
- Seat the distributor fully, align dowel pins, and install hold‑down clamp finger‑tight. Do not force the distributor in; if it doesn’t seat easily, withdraw and check alignment again.
- Tighten clamp to factory torque with a torque wrench.
- Reconnect vacuum lines and electrical connectors. Reinstall distributor cap and reconnect spark plug wires in correct order (for petrol).
- For petrol: Use a timing light to set ignition timing per the factory spec by rotating the distributor slightly and retightening the clamp.
- For diesel distributor‑type pump: See diesel timing bullets below — do not run the engine until pump timing is set to spec.

- Specific diesel (2H / 12H‑T) notes and extra requirements
- If your engine is a diesel H‑series with a distributor‑type injection pump, timing is critical — the pump’s rotor and delivery timings must be aligned to engine TDC within tight tolerance.
- Additional required tools: degree wheel or timing mark tool, dial indicator (to verify TDC), injection pump locking tool (if specified for your model), and possibly a vacuum/boost gauge if there’s boost‑related timing.
- Why extra tools: Diesel injection is mechanical/pressurized; incorrect timing causes hard starting, loss of power, heavy smoke, engine damage, or high exhaust temperatures. Professional test‑bench calibration may be required for precise fuel delivery timing.
- If pump removal is required for overhaul, a specialist bench‑test is usually needed to recalibrate pump timing and injection quantity — do not attempt pump calibration without the right test equipment unless you have the service manual and experience.

- Common parts that may need replacement and why
- Distributor cap and rotor (petrol)
- Why: Cracks, carbon tracking, worn contacts, moisture. Replacement restores spark integrity.
- Points and condenser or electronic ignition module (petrol)
- Why: Mechanical wear, poor contact, or failed electronics cause weak/irregular spark. Replace with electronic module for better reliability if available.
- Distributor O‑ring and housing seal (both petrol and diesel)
- Why: Prevent oil leaks into distributor; seals harden with age and leak.
- Distributor drive gear or shaft
- Why: Worn or damaged teeth change timing and can finally fail; replace if you find pitting, excessive wear, or metal chips.
- Front oil seal (where distributor shaft enters)
- Why: Stop oil weeping; replace whenever distributor is out.
- Vacuum advance unit (petrol)
- Why: If diaphragm is torn or valve leaks, timing under load is wrong; replace to restore proper advance.
- Delivery valve seals / pump components (diesel)
- Why: Fuel leaks or poor spray cause rough running; these are often serviced on a bench.
- Complete replacement distributor / pump assembly
- Why: If internal damage, severe wear, or calibration cannot be achieved in the field, replacing the entire assembly or using a remanufactured pump is the practical solution.

- How to tell a replacement is required (quick checks)
- Visible cracks, carbon tracks on cap, burned rotor contact, oil in cap — replace cap/rotor and seals.
- Excessive shaft runout/play — replace distributor.
- Engine misfires, timing jump under load, or no spark — diagnose ignition module/coil and replace faulty part.
- Diesel: If timing cannot be set to spec or pump shows internal leakage/metal debris — pump overhaul or replacement is required.

- Torque and specification advice
- Always consult the factory service manual for exact torque specs, timing degrees, and sequence for your exact model (2H vs 12H‑T differences).
- If you do not have a service manual, do not overtighten clamps; snug then torque to typical small clamp values (check manual ASAP).

- When to stop and get professional help
- If the distributor/pump requires bench calibration, internal repair, or you cannot get injection timing within spec — take it to a diesel pump specialist or Toyota shop.
- If the drive gear or shaft is damaged or there are metal chips in the housing — professional overhaul or replacement recommended.

- Quick parts checklist to have on hand before you start
- Distributor cap and rotor (or full distributor kit)
- O‑ring(s) and front seal
- Gasket sealant (if required) and small gasket scraper
- Replacement clamp bolt(s) or hardware if corroded
- Points/condensor or electronic ignition module (if applicable)
- Fuel system spare parts only if you can bench‑test or have guidance (diesel deliveries/delivery valve seals)

- Final practical tips (no fluff)
- Photograph wiring and rotor position before removal.
- Label spark plug wires one at a time when removing.
- Replace seals whenever you pull the distributor.
- Use a puller — avoid levering on the housing.
- If diesel pump timing is required beyond simple mark alignment, stop and consult a specialist.


rteeqp73

Hj45 1979 12HT Work Rig - MrLandcruiser https://www.mrlandcruiser.com This one was a H motor 45, then a 350 Chev, now she has the 12HT. With a 5 speed and power ...

Land Cruiser 12HT testi Testing rebuilt Toyota Land Cruiser HJ61 12H-T engine.

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What you’re doing and why it matters (plainly)
- The shock absorber’s job is to damp the spring’s motion so the vehicle rides and handles properly. The shock mount and its bushings are the connection points between the shock and the vehicle (frame, axle, control arm or spring perch). Worn or damaged mounts let the shock move excessively, make clunks, transmit more vibration and road noise into the cab, and let the shock work at the wrong angle — reducing control and tyre contact. Replacing the mounts restores proper attachment, quiets clunks, and lets the shock do its job.

Analogy: think of the shock as a sponge that slows a bouncing ball. The mount and bushing are the sponge’s corner clamps. If the clamps are rotten, the sponge flops and the ball bounces unpredictably.

Which type you might have (and why it changes the job)
- Non‑strut shock (common on older Toyota trucks/4x4s with 2H/12H-T engines): the shock is a cylinder with an upper and lower eye (or stud top). Each eye has a rubber bushing and a metal sleeve; bolts or studs clamp it to the vehicle frame and axle or control arm. This is the simpler, common truck arrangement.
- Strut-style (MacPherson) top mount (more common on passenger cars): the top mount contains rubber isolator and often a bearing. Replacing a strut top mount usually means compressing the spring and disassembling the strut — more advanced and requires a spring compressor.

I’ll describe the eye‑type (truck) shock mount replacement step-by-step and cover differences/additions for strut tops.

Tools and supplies
- Replacement shock mounts/bushings (match OEM part or good aftermarket). If the shock body is worn or leaking, replace the shock at the same time.
- Jack + quality jack stands (or vehicle hoist)
- Wheel chocks
- Hand tools: metric socket set (deep sockets), ratchet, breaker bar, combination wrenches
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or equivalent)
- Hammer, punch or drift
- Bench vise or bushing press (if reusing sleeves/bushings)
- Torque wrench
- Pry bar
- Wire brush, rag, brake cleaner
- Anti‑seize and/or medium strength thread locker (per manual)
- New bolts/nuts if old hardware is corroded (recommended)
- Spring compressor (only for strut top mount jobs)
- Safety glasses and gloves

Parts/components explained (every component you’ll touch)
- Shock absorber body: cylinder filled with oil and piston/valve assembly. It’s the main damper.
- Piston rod: extends from the top of the shock; moves through seals at the top.
- Upper eye or stud / lower eye: the attachment points on the shock. Eye uses bushing + sleeve and bolt; studs use a threaded stud with nut and washer.
- Rubber bushing/isolation sleeve: rubber (or polyurethane) piece inside the eye that cushions and isolates the shock from metal‑to‑metal noise and provides some flex. It has a metal center sleeve (metal tube) that the bolt passes through.
- Metal sleeve (bushing sleeve): inner tube pressed into the bushing. The bolt slides through this.
- Washers and retaining nuts/bolts: hardware that clamps the eye against the mount bracket.
- Mount bracket / mount plate / eye bracket: welded or bolted part on the frame, axle or control arm where the shock attaches.
- Upper strut mount (if strut): assembly with rubber cushion and often a bearing that allows steering rotation (front). Contains mount plate, rubber isolator, and bearing.
- Bump stop and dust boot: protect the shock rod and limit travel. Replace if damaged.

Theory: how the system works, simply
- The spring stores energy when the wheel hits a bump. Without damping, the spring would oscillate (bounce). The shock converts that kinetic energy into heat by forcing hydraulic oil through valves as the piston moves. The rubber bushings at the connections isolate road noise and let a small controlled angle change. If mounts or bushings fail, the shock can’t be held in the correct position; forces go through metal surfaces or loose hardware, causing noise, damaged components and poor control.

What can go wrong (typical failure modes)
- Rubber bushing collapsed, cracked, or missing → clunks, looseness, more vibration.
- Corroded/ seized bolt/ sleeve → difficult to remove, may shear if forced.
- Worn shock (oil leakage, reduced damping) → excessive bounce even with new mount.
- Torn dust boot / damaged bump stop → shortened shock life due to rod damage.
- Mount plate or bracket cracked/weld failed → unsafe; bracket repair/welding or replacement required.
- Incorrect reinstallation (wrong torque, missing washers, wrong orientation) → premature wear, noise, or safety hazard.
- On struts: compressed spring slipping or improper reassembly → danger of spring release and injury.

Step‑by‑step procedure — eye‑type shock (typical truck rear/front)
Preparation and safety
1. Park on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake. Do not rely on hydraulic jacks alone.
2. Jack the vehicle so the wheel/axle is raised enough to unload the shock a little (on some jobs you remove wheel — on many truck shocks you can leave wheel on). Place solid jack stands under the frame or axle per factory lift points. Lower the vehicle onto stands. Safety first.

Remove the shock assembly or access the mount
3. Apply penetrating oil to the upper and lower mounting bolts/nuts and let soak (10–20 minutes). This helps prevent bolt breakage.
4. Support the axle / lower control arm with a small jack or second stand so the shock doesn’t drop when you remove bolts.
5. Remove the retaining nut(s). For shocks with a top stud + nut: hold stud and back off nut. For eye bolts: remove nut and slide bolt out. If the bolt is seized, use a breaker bar, impact gun, or use an angle grinder to remove if necessary (replace bolt afterward).
6. Remove the shock from the vehicle. If the shock is under slight preload, be ready to support it as you remove the final fastener.

Inspect parts
7. Inspect the shock for oil leaks and rod pitting. If the shock leaks, replace the shock. Replacing bushings on a leaking shock is temporary.
8. Inspect mounting bracket for damage, corrosion or elongation of holes. If holes are oval, the bracket may need repair or replacement.

Remove old bushings/mounts
9. If the bushing is a pressed‑in type, remove the old bushing and sleeve. Common methods:
- Bench vise: press the old sleeve out using appropriate sockets as adapters.
- Hammer and drift: drive the sleeve out from one side; this can damage the bushing if you plan to reuse it (not recommended).
- Hydraulic press or bushing tool: preferred for a clean job.
10. Clean the shock eye and bracket bore with wire brush and solvent. Remove rust and debris.

Install new bushings/sleeves
11. Lightly grease the outside of the new bushing with silicone grease (do NOT use petroleum‑based grease that can degrade rubber) or use the grease the bushing maker recommends. For polyurethane, use the grease included.
12. Press the new bushing into the shock eye — it should seat squarely. Then press the metal sleeve into the bushing until it is flush. If the bushing has a split lip orientation, follow manufacturer instructions on orientation.
13. If replacing studs or bolts, insert the new bolt through the bracket and bushing. Use new hardware if the old is corroded. Use anti‑seize or light oil on bolt threads only if factory manual allows; otherwise follow manual recommendations for thread locker or torque.

Reassembly
14. Reinstall the shock into the bracket. If there is a specific orientation (washer location, concave side of bushing), orient correctly.
15. Hand tighten the nuts initially to hold everything in place. Do not fully torque yet.
16. Lower the support jack slightly so the shock is carrying a load approximate to normal ride height. If you torque bolts while the suspension is at full droop or fully compressed, bushing life can be reduced. The goal is to torque at normal ride height. Many people lower the vehicle onto its wheels (safely) to set a natural load, then torque bolts.
17. Tighten nuts to factory torque. If you don’t have factory numbers: typical sizes (rough guide): M12 bolts ≈ 70–90 Nm, M14 ≈ 100–120 Nm, M16 ≈ 150–200 Nm. These are only guides — confirm with shop manual.
18. Reinstall wheels if removed, lower vehicle to the ground, tighten lug nuts to spec.

Final checks and break‑in
19. Recheck torque after 50–100 miles (80–160 km) of driving — bushings seat and hardware can settle.
20. Test drive slowly, listening for clunks, and check for leaks and correct ride feel.

Notes for strut top mount replacement (front struts)
- This requires removing the strut assembly, compressing the coil spring with a proper spring compressor, and disassembling the strut to access the top mount. Because compressed springs store energy, use correct tools and procedures. If unsure, have a shop do it. After installing a new top mount and reassembling the strut, torque top nuts to spec and align wheel if required. The top mount often contains a bearing that may affect steering feel; replace if worn.

Troubleshooting common problems and practical tips
- Seized bolt that won’t turn: heat the nut (not the rubber) with a small torch, apply penetrating oil, hold the bolt head and turn the nut. If the bolt twists, replace it. If the bolt head rounds, you may need to cut it off and replace.
- Bolt sheared flush: drill out and re‑tap only if bracket thickness allows. Often safer to cut out the bracket and replace or weld a new nut/patch in.
- Bushings still noisy after replacement: check for incorrect orientation, missing washers, worn shock, or damaged mount bracket.
- Shock rod pitting: replace the shock. A new mount on a bad shock is pointless.
- If you get a crooked mount/washers mismatched: disassemble and reassemble correctly; misalignment shortens bushing life and can shear bolts.

Inspection checklist (what to inspect during replacement)
- Shock for leaks, rod damage, smooth travel.
- Bushing condition and correct seating.
- Mounting bracket for cracks, holes, weld integrity.
- Mounting hardware condition; replace corroded bolts.
- Dust boot and bump stop condition.
- After reassembly: no binding, correct torque, no interference with brake lines or wiring.

Safety reminders (short and direct)
- Use jack stands — never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Use a proper spring compressor for strut jobs.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and follow torque specifications.
- If a bracket is cracked or badly corroded, don’t jury‑rig it — repair or replace it properly.

When to replace the whole shock
- Visible oil leaks, excessive free play, rough or inconsistent damping, or if the vehicle’s ride/safety is compromised. Mount replacements on a worn shock are temporary fixes.

Wrap‑up
- Replace bushings/mounts if they’re cracked, loose, or causing noise. Do the job safely, use proper tools (press or vise for bushings; spring compressor for struts), and always confirm torque specs with the factory manual for your specific vehicle. After replacement, drive and re‑check torque and listen for improvements (clunks gone, reduced vibration, stable handling).

No-frills: follow those steps, respect safety, replace hardware if corroded, check the shock itself, torque to spec, re‑check after road use.
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