- Safety first
- Work on a level surface, engine cool, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
- Use quality jack stands rated for your vehicle; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic gloves, and avoid loose clothing.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be working under or around wiring or removing sensors.

- What “oil pan” work means here
- Remove the oil (drain), unbolt and remove the oil pan, clean mating surfaces, replace gasket/seal as needed, reinstall pan with proper torque, refill oil and filter.
- This document assumes a Toyota H‑series diesel (2H / 12H‑T) engine; vehicle mounting brackets, crossmembers or exhaust components may block access and require removal.

- Tools — descriptions and how to use each (bring metric sockets; Toyota uses metric fasteners)
- Floor jack
- Description: hydraulic jack used to lift the vehicle.
- How to use: position under recommended jacking point; pump handle until vehicle is high enough to place jack stands. Lower carefully onto stands. Do not crawl under with only the jack.
- Why needed: to lift vehicle to access oil pan and drain area.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Description: mechanical stands that support the vehicle weight safely.
- How to use: set them to correct height and place on solid frame points; lower vehicle so frame rests on stands, not on the jack.
- Why needed: provides safe, stable support while working under vehicle.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges placed behind wheels.
- How to use: place behind rear wheels to prevent rolling.
- Why needed: safety—prevents vehicle movement.
- Large drain pan / oil catch container
- Description: wide shallow pan to collect used oil.
- How to use: position under drain plug and pan, drain oil into pan; transfer oil to sealed container for recycling.
- Why needed: to catch oil and avoid spills.
- Socket set (metric, deep and standard), ratchet, extensions
- Description: sockets (8–19 mm range likely needed) and ratchet handle; deep sockets for drain plug if recessed.
- How to use: choose correct socket size, attach to ratchet or extension, turn to remove/install bolts. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.
- Why needed: most pan bolts and drain plug require sockets.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, 0–150 ft‑lb range)
- Description: calibrated wrench to apply exact torque.
- How to use: set required torque value, tighten bolts in stages to that value until the wrench clicks.
- Why needed: prevents under/over‑tightening which causes leaks or stripped threads.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long non‑ratcheting bar that provides extra leverage.
- How to use: fit socket to breaker bar for tough bolts; apply steady force.
- Why needed: frees stubborn or rusted bolts safely without damaging ratchet.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Description: open and box end wrenches.
- How to use: use box end for better grip on bolts where ratchet/socket won’t fit.
- Why needed: limited access areas where sockets/ratchet don’t reach.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), pry bar or trim tool
- Description: flat/blunt tools to gently pry or remove splash shields.
- How to use: use for clips, splash shields, and gentle pan separation once bolts removed.
- Why needed: to remove covers and separate pan from engine block if stuck.
- Gasket scraper / plastic razor blade
- Description: thin blade for removing gasket residue.
- How to use: scrape old gasket material from mating surfaces carefully; don't gouge aluminum.
- Why needed: clean mating surfaces to ensure a leak‑free seal.
- Wire brush / brake cleaner / rags
- Description: for cleaning surfaces and parts.
- How to use: spray brake cleaner, wipe with rags, brush off rust and oil; ensure dry before installing gasket.
- Why needed: removes oil and grime so new gasket/sealant adheres.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD‑40 specialist)
- Description: chemical to loosen rusted bolts.
- How to use: spray on bolts and let sit 10–15 minutes before attempting removal.
- Why needed: reduces risk of broken bolts when removing old hardware.
- Oil filter wrench
- Description: strap or socket style tool to remove spin‑on oil filter.
- How to use: engage the filter and turn counterclockwise; loosen and remove.
- Why needed: oil filter should be replaced when oil pan is serviced.
- Drain plug tool / socket (correct size)
- Description: dedicated socket for the oil drain plug.
- How to use: use to remove/reinstall plug; use new crush washer on reinstallation.
- Why needed: to drain oil and seal plug.
- Magnet or flexible pickup tool
- Description: magnetic wand.
- How to use: pick up dropped bolts or metal debris from pan or block.
- Why needed: prevents dropped bolts being lost in engine and facilitates cleanup.
- RTV silicone sealant (engine‑grade) and/or new OEM oil pan gasket
- Description: high‑temp, oil‑resistant RTV or a precut OEM gasket.
- How to use: if using RTV, apply thin continuous bead to pan mating surface per instructions; if using OEM gasket, place gasket dry or with small dabs of sealant where recommended.
- Why needed: forms the seal between pan and block to prevent oil leaks. Use the gasket type recommended by Toyota or OEM part.
- Torque screwdriver or small torque driver (if small screws present)
- Description: useful if small retaining screws have specific torques.
- How to use: set required torque and tighten small screws accordingly.
- Why needed: for small fasteners that require accurate torque.
- Small container for bolts, labels, and marker
- Description: to keep bolts organized.
- How to use: place bolts from each area in separate labeled containers or tape and mark.
- Why needed: prevents mixing bolts of different lengths/threads; essential for reassembly.
- Optional: engine support or transmission jack
- Description: supports engine/transmission if crossmember removal is required.
- How to use: support engine/transmission before removing support members.
- Why needed: some vehicles require removal of crossmembers that support engine/transmission; you must support the load.

- Preparatory steps (what to do before touching bolts)
- Gather all tools, new gasket, new drain plug crush washer, new oil filter, and correct oil type/quantity for engine.
- Warm engine slightly (idle 5–10 minutes) to thin the oil for faster draining; do not work on a hot engine—let it cool enough to touch safely.
- Jack the vehicle and support with jack stands; position drain pan under drain plug.

- Draining oil
- Use correct socket on drain plug, crack the plug with breaker bar if needed, and remove intentionally.
- Allow oil to drain fully into drain pan; inspect for metal flakes or unusual debris (metal flakes indicate internal damage).
- Remove oil filter with wrench and drain into pan; inspect filter magnet (if present) for metal.

- Accessing oil pan and removing obstructing parts
- Remove splash shield or belly pan as needed with screwdrivers/sockets.
- Inspect for crossmembers, brackets, or exhaust pieces blocking pan bolts. If present, remove following safe procedures and support affected components (engine/transmission) with jack or engine support.
- Label and stow removed parts/bolts in a clean place.

- Unbolting and removing oil pan
- Spray penetrating oil on pan bolts and let sit if corroded.
- Loosen and remove pan bolts with appropriate socket/ratchet. Keep bolts organized by location—some are different lengths.
- Carefully pry pan free with pry bar or plastic scraper where needed, tapping gently; some RTV or gasket residue may be holding it.
- Lower pan slowly; remaining oil will spill—keep drain pan under it.

- Inspecting and cleaning
- Inspect pan for damage (dents, cracks, or heavy sludge). Slight surface rust is repairable; large dents or cracks require replacement.
- Clean pan with solvent/brake cleaner and a rag; remove sludge and metal shavings. If significant metal debris present, engine inspection is required.
- Inspect oil pickup tube and screen for blockage; clean or replace if clogged.
- Inspect mating surface on engine block for old gasket material and clean it with a gasket scraper and brake cleaner. Do not gouge or scratch the surface.
- Check pan bolt threads in block for damage; if stripped, helicoil or thread repair may be required—this is advanced or requires a shop.

- Gasket/seal replacement and reinstallation
- If OEM gasket present, replace with new OEM gasket. If pan originally used RTV, use a high‑temp, oil‑resistant RTV and follow manufacturer bead pattern instructions.
- Place gasket or apply evenly spaced bead of RTV on pan flange. If using RTV, allow recommended flash time if instructed.
- Position pan carefully and start bolts by hand in all holes to ensure alignment.
- Tighten bolts finger‑tight in a crisscross pattern to seat the gasket evenly.

- Final torque and sequence
- Tighten bolts gradually in stages (e.g., finger tight → 50% torque → full torque) using a crisscross/star pattern.
- Use a torque wrench to final torque values per factory spec. If factory torque is unavailable, typical ranges (use caution):
- M6 bolts ≈ 8–12 Nm (7–10 ft‑lb)
- M8 bolts ≈ 20–30 Nm (15–22 ft‑lb)
- M10 bolts ≈ 40–50 Nm (30–37 ft‑lb)
- Note: these are approximate; always check the Toyota service manual for exact torque values for 2H / 12H‑T oil pan bolts.

- Reinstall drain plug and oil filter
- Fit a new crush washer on drain plug; tighten to spec (hand tight plus a small fraction with wrench). Typical drain plug torque ~25–35 Nm—confirm in manual.
- Install new oil filter with light oil on the gasket and tighten per filter instructions.

- Refill oil and test
- Lower vehicle from stands, refill with correct oil type and quantity for 2H / 12H‑T (check vehicle manual for exact liters).
- Reconnect battery negative if removed.
- Start engine, let idle, check for leaks around the pan and drain plug.
- Shut off engine, recheck oil level and top up as necessary after a short run.

- When replacement parts are required and why
- Oil pan gasket
- Why: most leaks are from a degraded gasket. Replace if brittle, flattened, or contaminated with oil.
- Recommended part: OEM Toyota oil pan gasket or exact aftermarket equivalent for 2H/12H‑T.
- Drain plug crush washer (crush ring)
- Why: copper/aluminum washer deforms to seal the plug; reuse causes leaks.
- Recommended part: new crush washer sized for drain plug thread.
- Oil pan
- Why: replace if pan has severe dents, cracks, threaded holes damaged, or corrosion through metal causing leaks.
- Recommended part: OEM oil pan for the engine or a quality aftermarket pan that matches mounting holes and depth.
- Bolts (pan bolts, damaged or corroded)
- Why: corroded or stretched bolts should be replaced; wrong length bolts cause leaks or interference.
- Recommended part: grade/size OEM replacement bolts.
- Oil pickup or screen
- Why: clogged pickup leads to oil starvation; damaged pickup must be replaced to avoid engine damage.
- Recommended part: OEM pickup assembly.
- Sealing compound / RTV
- Why: some engines require RTV at corners or timing cover joint; use engine‑safe RTV rated for oil exposure.
- Recommended part: manufacturer‑approved RTV (specify “engine/gear oil resistant”).
- If metal flakes found
- Why: indicates abnormal wear or bearing failure; do not just reassemble—engine diagnosis and possibly bearing/crank work is required.
- Recommended action: engine teardown or professional inspection.

- Additional notes and cautions
- If bolts are seized and break, replacing a broken bolt in the block is advanced work; consider a shop if you’re inexperienced with extracting broken studs.
- If you must remove engine/transmission support members or lift the engine, an engine support bar or transmission jack is required — do not attempt without proper equipment and know‑how.
- Always dispose of used oil and filters at a recycling center.
- If unsure about torque specs, bolt lengths, or whether crossmembers must be removed, consult the Toyota factory service manual for your specific vehicle model and chassis—or have a professional do the job.

- Minimum parts to buy before starting (recommended)
- OEM oil pan gasket or correct aftermarket gasket for 2H/12H‑T
- New drain plug crush washer
- New oil filter
- Correct quantity and grade of engine oil
- Small tube of engine‑safe RTV (if manual calls for it)
- Optional spare pan bolts if original are corroded

- Quick troubleshooting after reassembly
- If leak appears immediately: stop engine, torque bolts again evenly, check gasket orientation and drain plug washer.
- If leak develops after a short drive: recheck torques, inspect for loose/missed bolts or damaged mating surface; if persistent, remove pan and reassess gasket/pan condition.

- Final reminder
- Follow factory torque and sealing instructions for the 2H / 12H‑T exactly where possible. If you cannot confirm specific torque values or you encounter seized bolts, significant damage, or heavy metal in the oil, stop and consult a professional mechanic.


rteeqp73

Transmission to Engine Install 12HT 2H Landcruiser ランクル６０ミッションを積む

12HT Engine Rebuild - HJ75 Troopy Build (EP5) The archive of footage lost in the hard drive incident of 2019. In this episode we tackle a DIY shed rebuild or "refresh" of this ...

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