Tools & supplies
- New fuel filter element / spin-on canister compatible with Toyota 2H / 12H-T (and any O‑rings/gaskets supplied with it).
- New copper crush washers (for banjo bolts) if present.
- Filter wrench (strap type or cap-style sized for the canister).
- Set of metric sockets & wrenches (common sizes 10–19 mm).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Small adjustable wrench for bleed screw.
- Manual primer pump or hand‑pump on vehicle (if fitted). If not fitted, a bulb primer or small suction pump can help.
- Catch pan for diesel, rags, and absorbent pads.
- Disposable gloves, eye protection.
- Torque wrench (for injection pump/banjo bolts if you have torque specs).
- Diesel fuel for pre‑filling the element and lubrication of seals.
- Container for used filter/fuel disposal.

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Work in a well‑ventilated area, no smoking or open flames nearby. Diesel vapors are combustible.
- Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on, engine cool.
- Protect painted surfaces from spills; place drip pan and rags beneath filter area.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Clean work area and keep filter opening covered to avoid contamination.
- Mark or note routing of any hoses before removal so you can reinstall correctly.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Locate the filter assembly
- The primary fuel filter/water separator on 2H / 12H‑T is usually a spin‑on canister mounted to the fuel filter head near the fuel lift pump/injection pump. Identify bleed screw and fuel shutoff valve (if present).

2. Isolate fuel supply and relieve low‑side pressure
- If there is a fuel shutoff valve, close it. If not, be ready to catch fuel.
- Open the bleed screw on the filter head slightly to relieve any trapped low‑pressure fuel so removal is less messy. Have the catch pan ready.

3. Drain water (if equipped)
- If the filter has a water drain/drain plug, open and drain into the pan before removing the filter to reduce spill volume.

4. Remove the old filter
- Place catch pan under filter.
- Use the strap or cap filter wrench to turn the canister counter‑clockwise. Loosen it and remove it by hand. Tip the filter to drain into the pan and set it aside for disposal.
- For cartridge‑type housings: remove housing bolt/cap and lift out element. Remove old O‑ring(s) from housing and head.

5. Clean filter mounting surface
- Wipe the filter head sealing surface clean with a lint‑free rag. Remove old gasket residue and any debris. Do not let dirt fall into the fuel inlet.

6. Prep the new filter
- Check that the new filter and O‑rings are correct. Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with clean diesel. If supplied, replace the housing O‑ring.
- Pre‑fill the spin‑on filter about 1/2–3/4 full with clean diesel if practical (this accelerates priming and reduces air ingestion).

7. Install new filter
- Thread the new filter onto the head by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface. Then tighten by hand to fully seat: typically hand tight + a small additional turn until snug. Do not overtighten; for spin‑on filters: 3/4 turn after gasket contact is common practice. For cartridge housings, ensure the cap/housing O‑ring is seated and bolt tightened evenly.
- Reinstall any banjo fuel lines, new copper washers, and tighten to service torque (if available). If you don’t have exact torque specs, tighten so secure but avoid overtightening; use service manual torque when possible.

8. Bleed air from the system
- Open the filter bleed screw (or the filter head bleed nipple).
- Operate the manual primer pump (if fitted) or use a bulb primer until clean, bubble‑free diesel flows from the bleed screw. Tighten bleed screw when clear.
- If no primer is fitted: crank engine in short bursts (do not overcrank) until fuel returns to bleed screw and is clear, then tighten. Alternatively, use a hand suction primer to draw fuel through until clear.
- If the injection pump has a primer lever, use it per manual until fuel appears and tighten the bleed screw.

9. Start engine and check
- Open fuel shutoff valve if you closed it.
- Start engine. It may crank a bit longer while remaining trapped air is expelled.
- Watch for leaks at the filter, banjo bolts, and lines. Recheck bleed screw after a few minutes and after engine idle.
- If the engine runs rough, re‑bleed the filter and injection pump area until all air is out.

10. Clean up & dispose
- Wipe any spilled diesel, dispose of used filter and contaminated fuel/cloths according to local regulations. Replace any sensors or clips removed.

How to use the filter wrench and primer properly
- Strap wrench: wrap strap around the canister near the base, pull strap tight, and apply steady counterclockwise force to break the seal. Protect nearby components from slipping wrench.
- Cap‑style wrench: fit snugly over the canister lip and turn counterclockwise with a breaker bar if needed.
- Hand primer: depress/release lever or pump until you see fuel at bleed point. Stroke slowly and watch for air bubbles; never force or overstroke if pump feels stiff—inspect for clogs.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not pre‑filling the filter: leads to long bleeding times and potential air in the high‑pressure side.
- Overtightening the new filter or banjo bolts: can damage gasket/O‑ring or strip threads.
- Leaving dirt or contamination on the filter head: introduces particles into fuel system; always clean before installing.
- Forgetting to replace crush washers on banjo fittings: causes leaks.
- Not opening bleed screw or not using primer: leads to hard starting and air locks.
- Using petroleum‑based oils or improper lubricants on O‑rings (use clean diesel only).
- Disposing of used filters/fuel improperly: follow local environmental regulations.
- Working near heat sources or with engine hot: increased fire risk and burns.

Replacement parts required
- New fuel filter element/canister specific to Toyota 2H / 12H‑T.
- Any O‑rings/gaskets that come with the kit; replace banjo crush washers if fuel lines are removed.
- Optional: new drain plug gasket, and replacement primer hose or clamp if damaged.

Final check
- After service, run engine to operating temperature, recheck all fasteners and fittings, and re‑inspect for leaks. Re‑bleed if the engine hiccups or stalls.

Done.
rteeqp73

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