Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set: 8, 10, 12, 14 mm (deep and shallow), ratchet, 3–6" extension, universal joint.
- Torque wrench (0–100 N·m range), hex/Allen keys if required.
- Screwdrivers (flat, Phillips), pliers, locking pliers.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist).
- Wire brush, gasket scraper, small pick set.
- Shop vacuum (wet/dry) or brush + rag to catch carbon.
- Carb/throttle body or diesel-safe intake cleaner, brake cleaner.
- Hand vacuum pump with gauge (for vacuum-actuated EGR), or 12 V test lead for electric actuators (only if you know pinout).
- New EGR valve assembly (OEM or quality aftermarket) and new gasket(s). Replace any broken studs/bolts; small bolt threadlocker (blue) optional.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, mask (for carbon).
- Rags, drip tray, disposable container for old parts.
- Optional: heat shield removal tools, small mirror/flashlight.

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work with engine cold to avoid burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting electrical work.
- Work in well-ventilated area; avoid inhaling carbon dust (use mask).
- Support vehicle safely on jack stands if you must go under it. Never rely on a jack only.
- Use penetrating oil and slow, steady force on corroded fasteners to avoid breaking bolts.
- Keep dirt/carbon out of intake — capture all debris with shop vacuum or rags.

Common pitfalls to avoid (summary)
- Reusing old gasket — will leak.
- Letting carbon fall into intake — causes turbo/intake damage.
- Breaking rusted bolts by using excessive force or wrong tools.
- Incorrect reassembly of vacuum hoses / electrical connectors.
- Over-torquing bolts (causes warping) or under-torquing (causes leaks).
- Not testing the EGR actuator before/after installation.
- Not clearing codes or verifying operation after installation.

Step-by-step procedure (Toyota 2H / 12H-T — generic diesel EGR procedure)
1) Prepare and access
- Park on level ground, engine cold. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove air cleaner assembly, intake hoses, and any engine covers obstructing access to the EGR valve on the intake/exhaust crossover. Keep track of clamps and screws.

2) Inspect and label
- Identify EGR vacuum hoses or electrical connector and label or photograph routing. This prevents reconnect mistakes.
- Spray penetrating oil on EGR mounting bolts and let soak 5–10 minutes.

3) Remove vacuum/electrical connections
- For vacuum EGR: pull off vacuum hose from actuator; if hose is stuck, use pliers gently and rotate while pulling. Cap or tape hoses you remove to keep dirt out.
- For electrical: disconnect connector tab; use electrical contact cleaner if corroded.

4) Remove supporting components
- Remove any heat shields, brackets, or turbo/intercooler pipes that block access. Use appropriate sockets and extension/universal joint where space is tight.

5) Unbolt EGR valve
- Use the correct socket and extension/universal joint to remove bolts/studs holding the EGR. Support the valve with one hand while removing the last bolt to prevent it dropping.
- If bolts are stuck, apply more penetrating oil and work them back and forth. If a bolt is about to round, switch to a 12-point or box socket and apply steady force.

6) Remove valve and gasket
- Carefully lift EGR straight out. Note orientation. Remove the old gasket(s) — do not reuse.
- Inspect the mating surfaces for heavy carbon deposits.

7) Prevent carbon contamination
- Immediately block the open intake/exhaust port with a clean rag or tape to prevent debris entry while you clean. Use shop vacuum on the port to catch loosened carbon.

8) Clean ports and mating surfaces
- Use a gasket scraper and wire brush to remove carbon from valve face and manifold port. Use carb cleaner or diesel intake cleaner to dissolve stubborn carbon. Do small passes; do not gouge metal surfaces.
- Vacuum up loosened debris. Repeat until surfaces are smooth and clean. Make sure EGR passages (crossover pipe) are clear — if heavily clogged, remove or service the crossover or EGR cooler (if fitted).

9) Test EGR valve (bench test)
- Vacuum actuator: attach hand vacuum pump to diaphragm line and apply vacuum. The valve stem should move and hold vacuum (diaphragm must not leak). If it doesn't move or leaks down, replace EGR valve.
- Electric actuator: if you have a scan tool, command EGR open/close and watch movement; otherwise a careful 12 V bench test per service manual pinout can be used — don't apply random voltage.
- Replace if actuator is faulty.

10) Prepare new valve and gasket
- Fit the new gasket exactly as original. Use only the supplied or OEM gasket; some systems have two gaskets (exhaust and intake side) — ensure both are present.
- If studs or bolts are corroded, replace them. Lightly oil bolt threads (or use blue threadlocker if specified), but do not overapply.

11) Reinstall EGR valve
- Remove rags blocking ports. Position new EGR valve and start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts in a crisscross/star pattern to ensure even seating. Torque to approx. 20–25 N·m (15–18 ft·lb) unless OEM spec differs. Use the torque wrench and verify each bolt is to spec.

12) Reconnect vacuum/electrical lines and components
- Reconnect vacuum hose(s), check for cracks and replace if brittle. Reconnect electrical connector, heat shields, intake pipes, and air cleaner assembly. Reinstall any removed brackets.

13) Final checks before start
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- If vacuum-operated, you can apply vacuum to the actuator to verify movement and that vacuum lines hold.
- Visually inspect for loose tools, stray rags, or spilled cleaners.

14) Start engine and verify
- Start engine and listen for exhaust leaks or hissing (vacuum leaks). Let it idle and observe behavior.
- If you have a scan tool, command EGR and observe flow / position. Check for any fault codes and clear codes if present. Monitor for improved idle and performance.

15) Road test and final check
- Take a short road test under various loads to confirm no hesitation, stalling, or smoke issues. After 10–20 minutes, recheck bolts for correct torque and inspect for leaks.

Specific tool usage tips
- Universal joint + extension: allows reaching bolts at awkward angles. Keep steady pressure to avoid rounding head.
- Torque wrench: snug bolts first in pattern, then final torque to spec. Use correct torque units.
- Hand vacuum pump: attach to vacuum nipple, pump to recommended vacuum (20–22 inHg typical) to see diaphragm movement and hold. If it bleeds down, diaphragm is leaking.
- Shop vacuum: hold directly to port while scraping to capture carbon. Alternatively, use a rag taped around port and vac everything on top.

Replacement parts checklist
- New EGR valve assembly (OEM recommended).
- New gasket(s) for EGR-to-manifold/crossover.
- Replacement bolts or studs if corroded.
- New vacuum hose(s) if brittle; small hose clamps if original are worn.
- If EGR cooler heavily corroded/clogged, consider replacement or professional cleaning.

Troubleshooting / final notes
- If valve is new but symptoms persist, inspect EGR passages, EGR vacuum supply, vacuum solenoid, and the intake manifold for restricted flow.
- Broken bolts: if you break a stud, seize the area, remove remaining stud carefully with extractor or drill and re-tap. This can be difficult on older engines; consider professional help.
- If ECU stores codes after replacement, clear them with an OBD scanner and re-test; persistent codes may indicate wiring/solenoid/sensor faults.

Done.
rteeqp73

Rebuilt 12H-T with Gturbo Grunter Extreme and new 3" stainless exhaust

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